ai?!«n5f'Mn!iifi

a!i:iHJrMt?S'!M;|;

i

i

'nP

n

LANDSCAPE
ARCHITECTURE . --.--- g

^ot»te

lllimd I /-— '^T^-''hWWM

— / T^ /

^ A X

S iite^fo rci S /o^^^^^9»erastApl c

^a7.f7«„rfi'^^_^^^^««<>'«^fl«y^ ^^ V ■ ,

j ^X, / ^idefordiV

( HMtland ^^-~-^^ p \ >.

/ ■ TofringtoiL , >y^

^^•^/i r^^«^<2:^y Vatherleiol.

J \i ' ^^Hatw-ellJimcV^ ^

y^ ^. , ^ / ^yK^^

f fn^^^M ,.„---" /^

L/fr"^"''^ ^lI^^^^^^^^^^V^^ ^V Dart m

) ( iv) \Marytevy

1 / -^Ta^sto^ ^PriBC.

^/ 0 R N W A L L ^^f\\J

^^^ oLIsteard (j^J \

J^ .^

II

MinekeaiV

S 0

Brid^ateir

E R \ S E T

^BaniptOTi\

Tivei

CuJJjcoaptxjii e

s^ Durstor
Ji

Taunton

Culmstock
IvertonJun.

'^StokeCanon/^

DORSET

wTiproiLSfJolmsl

(Xewton
Abbot ,

jTorguay
igntofu

jrixham

SKETCH MAP

OF

DEVONSHIRE

J.SartAoLonuw, Ei-izi'

REEF

POINT

GARDENS

LIBRARY

The Qift of Beatrix Farrand

to the General Library

University of California,Berkeley

BLACK'S GUIDE TO DEVONSHIRE

BLACK'S GUIDE

TO

DEVONSHIEE

EDITED BY

A. E. HOPE MONCEIEFF

EDITOR OF 'where SHALL WE GO?' 'WHERE TO GO ABROAD,' ETC.

SEVENTEENTH EDITION

LONDON

ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK

1902

Any communications to the Editor by Tourists making use of this Guide-
book should be addressed to the Publishers.

LANDSCAPE

APCHiTECTURE

Faxrand n-'ft"

NONLiHlOL/lilNb

D/46 70

LA. DSCAPE
ARCH.
LIBRARY

PREFACE

This Guide has been recast and enlarged both in size and
scope. It will be found arranged upon a principle which
seems to answer to the present conditions of touring. On
the main routes of communication, we have, as far as
possible, taken the places of chief resort as centres from
which our excursions radiate in different directions.
This arrangement should prove specially convenient in
Devonshire, where visitors are much in the way of
making their headquarters at certain popular watering-
places that afford unusually ample facilities for pleasure-
trips about their vicinity, or even to points at a consider-
able distance.

At each place we have tried to outline how may be
most profitably and pleasantly spent an hour, a day, a
week, or whatever time is likely to be passed there. It
is possible to overload a Guide with too many details,
and to confuse readers by indicating far more than they
can or care to see ; on the other hand, various tastes and
needs have to be considered within limits of space one
would often wish more elastic. The Editor can only

Vi GUIDE TO DEVONSHIRE

hope he has made the best of these limits for the greatest
good of the greatest number.

As a rule, the railway lines and coach routes are
followed, but with frequent hints to pedestrians, usually-
distinguished by small print ; and at the end will be
found an Itinerary of road distances for cyclists.

CONTENTS

PAGE

Inteoduction vii

London to Exeter 1

Exeter 23

Excursions from Exeter ...... 38

Torquay 65

Excursions from Torquay (The South Hams) ... 76

Exeter to Plymouth 97

Plymouth and Environs 103

Excursions from Plymouth 125

Dartmoor 141

Barnstaple and its approaches 177

Ilfracombe 188

Lynton and Lynmouth 202

Bideford and Torrington 218

Cycling Itinerary 233

Index 237

MAPS AND PLANS

Devon East, District Map faxing page 1

Exeter, Plan of City „ 22

Exeter Cathedral, Plan of , 28

Exeter, District Map ,, 36

Torquay, Plan of „ 65

Torquay, District Map ,, 77

Plymouth, District Map ,, 102

Plymouth, Stonehouse, Devonport — Plan . . „ 106

River Tamar (Lower Course) . . . . ,,124

Dartmoor Forest ,,130

Dartmoor District ,, 146

Moreton Hampstead District . . . . ,, 160

River Tamar (Upper Course) . . . . ,,174

North Devon, District Map . . . . „ 177

Ilfracombe, Plan of „ 188

Lynton, District Map ,, 204

General Map of County (d end.

ILLUSTRATIONS

Exeter Cathedral Frontispiece

Dawlish Cove facing page hA:

Teignmouth ....... ,, 58

Torquay ,, 66

Anstey's Cove „ 74

Dartmouth — Butterwalk ,, 80

Plymouth— Guildhall ,110

Saltash Bridge ,122

The Yealm Mouth ,,128

Brent Tor ,,138

Hay Tor ,,156

Ilfracombe ,, 192

Lynton— Yalley of Rocks „ 212

Bideford ,218

a2

INTEODUCTION

Devonshire, one of the largest, is, in the opinion of not
a few, the most beautiful of English counties. Certainly
there is none more attractive throughout, displaying a
greater contrast of varied charms in the luxuriant richness
of its valleys and lowlands, and the wild picturesqueness
of the hills, that at some points might claim to be called
mountains. The coast -line, also, is almost uniformly
striking, and often grand, both on the north and the
south sea face which this county has to show. Perhaps
its most characteristic feature is that of the short river-
courses by which Devon is so thickly seamed. Its name
has been plausibly derived from De Avon, Avon being the
old British word for a rapid river ; Axe and Exe, like Esk
and Usk, have some similar signification ; and such fre-
quently recurring terminations as ford and hridge give a
plain indication of the nature of the scenery.

Devon men have good right to be proud of their
county, that has reared so many worthies to play such a
stout part in our history, by land and sea, in peace as in
war. It is rich in monuments and memorials of the past,
testifying to an importance which shows no sign of decay.
The antiquarian will here be as much in clover as the
amateur of scenery, among a succession of relics coming
down from those attributed to the Druids, a dim name
that still haunts the mists of Dartmoor, though their
supposed handiwork is now treated doubtfully by learned
Societies. Mr. Jonathan Oldbuck's famous essay on
" Castrametation " could hardly be judged complete till
he had visited the many heights of this county, displaying

Xll GUIDE TO DEVONSHIRE

time-worn fortifications, raised by warriors of various races,
whose tombs also may sometimes be traced near the scene
of their battles.

The Antiquities of the primeval period are chiefly to
be found on Dartmoor and its borders, consisting of crom-
lechs, stone circles, alignments (the most noteworthy at
Merivale Bridge, near Prince Town), single sepulchral
stones, kistvsens or stone chests, logans or rocking stones,
rock basins, hut circles, pounds, and traces of walled
villages.

Ancient British roads ran from Exmouth through
Woodbury into Somersetshire, via Taunton ; from Exeter
to Holland and Okehampton ; and also on Haldon. Celts,
rings, and brooches are from time to time unearthed in
various parts of the county, especially in the tin streams
on Dartmoor, and from sepulchral barrows. Roman coins,
and other relics, have been frequently discovered in
Exeter. The principal Roman road passed through the
whole length of Devonshire from N.E. to S.W., and was
called "Ikeneld." It entered the county from Dorset-
shire, a little east of Axminster. Roman villas have been
excavated at Uplyme, and near Seaton ; but the Roman
remains, coins, pottery, etc., belong for the most part to
Exeter or its neighbourhood.

In relics of the Middle Ages also Devonshire abounds.
The principal monastic remains are at Buckfastleigh,
Tavistock, and Buckland Monachorum ; the finest castel-
lated ruins at Okehampton, Totnes, and Berry Pomeroy ;
while interesting examples of old domestic architecture
are scattered over the county. In very many of the
country churches traces of all the different periods of
pointed architecture will be recognised. Most of them,
however, were extensively restored in the prevailing style
of the 1 5th century, and the windows, therefore, as a rule,
are late Perpendicular. There are many Norman and
Early English fonts, and numerous examples of 15 th
century woodwork, chiefly in the shape of screens and
parcloses. The wayside and churchyard crosses through-
out the county have received a great deal of attention

INTRODUCTION Xlll

from local antiquaries, and many of them have been care-
fully restored. Perhaps the finest example is that at
Copplestone, in the parish of Colebrook.

The brick of modern building shows well against the
prevailing green of the landscapes, but Devonshire has
no lack of quarries to supply more enduring materials
for those historic edifices. Its marbles, notably, are often
used with fine effect in church decoration. Granite, lime-
stone, and red sandstone afford a pleasing variety of effect.
Cottages, and even more pretentious dwellings here, were
much built of cob, that is baked mud, the use of which
seems now dying out, yet it made most comfortable houses,
cool in summer and warm in winter ; while such walls
took on a good show of white and black paint and creep-
ing greenery. In some parts the use of slate, as armour
against the wind, for outer walls, will be noticed.

History. — Devonshire formed under the Eomans part
of the division known as Britannia Prima. It then came
to be included in the Saxon Wessex, incorporated with
the rest of the kingdom under Egbert. There has since
been nothing peculiar in its government save what were
known as The Stannary Laws, which prevailed among the
tin-miners from a very early period. (See CrocJcern Tor.)

It was not till a year after the destruction of the Saxon
power that the army of the Conqueror moved westward
and invested Exeter, where King Harold's mother had
taken refuge. After the capitulation of the city. King
William marched directly into Cornwall, dividing the
lands of the county between his kindred and followers.
Amongst the most important of these, the Pomeroys of
Berry held their castle until the reign of Edward VI.
Many great families of the county, such as the Courtenays,
Carews, Fulfords, and Fortescues, do not seem to have
been original Norman settlers, but acquired their lands
in Devon at a somewhat later date, since they are not
mentioned in Domesday.

Except for the troubles arising from Exeter's taking
the side of the Empress Maud, the county had but little
connection with general English history till the Wars

XIV GUIDE TO DEVONSHIRE

of the Koses ; and even then the operations, apart from
Exeter, were chiefly confined to slight skirmishes between
the small parties of such rival leaders as the Courtenays
and Bonvilles, the former of whom declared for Lancaster,
the latter for York. The risings of 1549, which com-
menced at Sampford , Courtenay and culminated in the
siege of Exeter, were founded on the change of ritual.
They chiefly affected the district between Crediton and
the capital of the west. But the age of Elizabeth and
the exploits of those famous Devonshire sea-dogs, Drake,
Hawkins, Raleigh, and Gilbert, notably in connection with
the defeat of the Spanish Armada, form a very important
part of the history of England. So do the affairs of
this county in the reign of Charles I. The great towns,
especially Plymouth, were mostly in favour of the Parlia-
mentary party, but the county gentry on the side of the
king. Many old houses can still show, in loop-holed walls
and ivy-clad ruins, traces of the disastrous struggles of
that evil period in our history.

Once more, in the next generation, Monmouth's unlucky
rising disturbed the borders of Devon, not far from which
was fought Sedgemoor, the last battle on English ground.
On 5th November 1688, William, Prince of Orange,
landed on Brixham Quay, and with his followers marched
from one end of the county to the other on his road to
London. He does not seem, however, to have secured
much support in Devon, which, on the whole, shows a
spirit of loyalty to the past down to our own day.

The episcopal see for Devonshire was at first established
at Crediton in a.d. 909. The ancient Cornish see, which
had existed during the British independence of Cornwall,
was afterwards united to that of Crediton ; and in 1050,
the place of the united sees was removed by the Confessor
from Crediton to Exeter. There was no further change
until 1876, when the Cornish see was again separated
from that of Devonshire, and the place of it fixed at
Truro. The diocese of Exeter is now therefore confined
to Devonshire, the ancient see of Crediton having been
restored as a suffragan bishopric.

INTRODUCTION XV

Geology. — Devonshire is well adapted for the purposes
of the geological student, since it aflfords representative
formations of the Palceozoic, Mesozoic, and Kainozoic epochs.
The first of these includes the metamorphic schists, mica,
and slate, which form the southern angle of the county,
of which the rocks of Prawle and Bolt Heads are formed.
The Devonian limestones and slates prevail partially in
the north of Devon, as also in the neighbourhood of
Highweek, Tavistock, and the Start. The Carboniferous
rocks spread over the whole of Central and West Devon ;
and Dartmoor, so called from its principal river, is of
granitic formation.

To the Mesozoic period belong the New Red Sand-
stone, conglomerates, and marls, which prevail in the
eastern part of the county, the last, which form the lower
beds of the series, being coloured red by the action of
peroxide of iron ; also the chalks and greensands, which
occur on the Haldon Hills, near Exeter, and in the south-
east part of the county.

The Kainozoic epoch has left the Tertiary deposits,
flints and gravel, lignite, the ossiferous caverns, the raised
beaches and submerged forests, traces of which are found
in Torbay, at Salcombe, and in Bideford Bay, where the
recession of the tide often exposes the trunks of trees.
A remarkable Tertiary deposit, belonging to the Lower
Miocene period, occurs at Bovey Tracey, below the eastern
escarpment of Dartmoor. It fills the bed of an ancient
lake over 3 miles long, and consists of beds of lignite,
clay, and sand, with an aggregate thickness of more than
100 feet. In the lignites at least fifty species of plants
have been found, all indicating a sub-tropical climate ; but
the greater part of the lignite beds is formed by fragments
of an enormous coniferous tree, belonging to the genus
Sequoia, the only living species of which are in California.
Great lumps of inspissated turpentine, due to the conifers,
are found here. Fine potters' clay occurs above this clay
and sand, and has been turned to account in the Pottery
works of the neighbourhood. The lignite called " Bovey
coal" burns with a disagreeable smell, but is used locally.

XVI GUIDE TO DEVONSHIRE

The climate varies in different parts of the county,
being everywhere mild and moist compared with that
of the eastern or northern parts of England. Both
Devon and Cornwall have a mean annual temperature
about 1°*5 above that of the midland counties, than
which their shores are notably warmer in winter, while
often cooler in the summer heats. The air of the Dartmoor
hills is sharp and bracing, where mists are frequent, and
snow often lies long. On the south coast frost is little
familiar, but rain rather too much so ; and many half-
hardy plants, such as hydrangeas, myrtles, geraniums,
and heliotropes, live through the winter without protec-
tion. The climate of Sidmouth, Exmouth, Torquay, and
other watering-places on this coast, is very equable, the
mean temperature of the winter months being usually
about 47°, while indeed an exceptional spell of severe
weather may come to disappoint delicate visitors, as
during the blizzard of 1891, and the long frost of 1895.
The north coast, exposed to the storms and swell of the
Atlantic, is more bracing ; yet there also, in the more
sheltered nooks, myrtles of great size and age flower
freely ; and there is reason to believe that Ilfracombe has
as favoured a winter climate as any place in the county.
The strip of the South Hams between the rivers Teign
and Tamar, sheltered by the high land of Dartmoor, is
called "garden of Devonshire." It may be considered
the centre of the cider district, and includes also some
of the best pasturage in the county, although scarcely
surpassing that of the Clyst Valley in the neighbourhood
of Exeter.

These rich pastures are celebrated as supporting what
is perhaps the chief industry of the county, the supply of
butter, milk, and that local luxury which commonly goes
by the name of Devonshire cream, though over the border
any other title than Cornish cream will be received with
stolid surprise ; and other southern meadow-lands are able
to produce what is here called cream jpar excellence.
Devonshire apples also are celebrated, and the cider made
from them, which seems now to be less appreciated in

INTRODUCTION XVll

the county, while it comes more into favour in London
and elsewhere as a beverage needing only care and
choice to rival many foreign vintages. The old woollen
and other manufactures have to a great extent died out,
though here and there they flourish in a quiet way not
inconsistent with idyllic neighbourhood. There are no
Manchesters or Sheffields to cloud the face of Devon ;
but it is closely dotted with small ancient market-towns
more or less prospering as centres of agricultural trade.
Some of the most thriving towns have risen, in the course
of the last generation or two, as health or holiday resorts,
and shall therefore, for our purposes, receive special
attention. By far the largest and most important place
in the county is Plymouth, with its annexes of Devonport
and Stonehouse, which we trust to show as worthy of
more attention than it always receives from tourists and
pleasure -seekers. Exeter, the venerable and dignified
county town, needs no advertisement to attract strangers.
The county contains 1,667,097 acres, or about 2600
square miles. Its population, by the last census, amounted
to 660,444. For parliamentary purposes Devonshire is
formed into eight county divisions, each returning one
member, viz. East (Honiton), Mid (Ashhurton), North
(South Molton), North-east {Tiverton\ North-west {Barn-
staple), South (Totnes), West (Tavistock), and Torquay,
while the boroughs of Plymouth and Devonport return
two members each, and Exeter has one.

Considering the ruggedness of its configuration, Devon
is well off for railways belonging to or connected with
the two great systems of the Great Western and the
London and South- Western Companies, whose keen competi-
tion is a good guarantee for public convenience. Roughly
speaking, it might be said that the G. W. R. serves the
south of the county, the L. & S.-W. R. the north ; but
the former has a line along the northern border from
Taunton to Barnstaple, while the latter, having already
pushed on to Plymouth, is credited with an ambition still
further to invade the territory of its rival. Both lines

XVlll GUIDE TO DEVONSHIRE

run express trains from London to Exeter in about four
hours, so that the choice between them is much a matter
of nearness to the London stations, Paddington (G. W. E,.),
and Waterloo (L. & S.-W. E.). The short cut to Taunton,
by which the G. W. R. will save a score of miles on its
present roundabout route, should before long put it at
marked advantage.

As to the Hotels, we need only say that they are
usually what may be expected at places much visited by
strangers ; while in out-of-the-way nooks can be found
many snug inns, known to anglers and other intimates of
the scenery, where a friendly welcome will go far to make
up for any roughness of lodging or service. At some of
the chief resorts, notably at Torquay and Ilfracombe, the
system of boarding-houses seems to have taken firm root.
Everywhere, as usual, we have made it our attempt to
mention all the chief hotels, inns, and boarding-houses.
While, as our rule is, we have shrunk from the responsi-
bility of recommendation, it has been our design to name
these houses, as far as possible, in order of reputation and
expensiveness, also, where desirable, with some indication
of their character and situation. We should be particu-
larly grateful for corrections here in any particular, — the
management of such houses being so apt to change.

The posting charges begin at the ordinary shilling a
mile for a one-horse carriage, with threepence for the
driver. Coaches are run, especially about Dartmoor and
on the northern coast, one stretch of it still untouched
by railways. In the season, at tourist resorts, sociable
driving excursions will be frequently organised. On the
coast, steamboat and sailing trips are in favour. Cyclists
are more or less at home in this county, abounding as
it does, in some parts, with breakneck descents which
demand caution. There is, however, no way of enjoying
a trip through Devon like that which costs nothing for
locomotion but shoe leather. To pedestrians, in particular,
we have one word of excuse for a certain vagueness that
may sometimes appear in our estimate of distances. A
"Devonshire mile" is notoriously a long one in the

INTRODUCTION XIX

opinion of a rustic informant, though it is not likely to
err on this side as calculated for posting charges. Some-
times, then, our reckoning has been a little hard to make
accurate ; while we often suppose or advise the reader to
take a route on which he may be much tempted to stray
aside, to linger, even to turn back for a moment, so that
his progress cannot be timed with the precision of an
ordnance surveyor. When we speak of " an hour's walk,"
a rate of three miles or so is in mind. " A mile or so "
— "about six miles," is enough for practical purposes
when hurry is the last thing to be thought of ; and he
would be a monster in tourist shape who would hurry
over a county like Devon.

The pedestrian who has leisure and enterprise and a
taste for independent exploration, would have this advan-
tage, among others — that he could often turn aside to
search out nooks quite as beautiful as many more cele-
brated, which want of space, or ignorance on our part, or
their distance from main lines of travel, may have caused
us to pass over unnoticed, and to which, accordingly, we
can only offer most regretful apologies for a neglect that,
perhaps, will make them all the more dear to the choice
few who keep their secrets.

EAST DEVON

r Trull

^om

Wellington

iampford W^"'"9ton^l

^eauchampf

Ashilf
[CuHand

Black
Down

Dumesivetli

yarcqmbe

Upottery]

^Broadhembury f o^mpdon ff/StoYland^

5STA.

"Chard

JAbpy.

CHARD JUn'stA.

Hembury^
iFort

Glttishai

HillQ^

Chardstoch

Widwofthy
-mway

Ottery
St. Mary

Tipton
'".Johns

Colyt^^\^^'

fAsh Ho.
'^Musbury

'Sidbury^

iegis
^Btanscombe^

ksdown
yHlir
SeaitonW/ Ax mouth.

Rou&cfon
Landslip

Pee
EAp mjoLE\'l^^^ Sidmouth
^^Jf^PyHigh Peak
Ladram Cove

Beef Head "^f?

RTO/I ST A.

Scale of Miles

23456

IValker &■ Botif-all sc.

LONDON TO EXETER

From London to Exeter the direct road (168 miles) goes
by Staines, Basingstoke, Andover, Stonehenge, Winca^iton,
Chard, and Honiton, which route may be varied by visiting
other places, not far out of the way, as shown in our
Guides to Hants, Somerset, and Dorset. Only a mile or
so longer, for instance, is the way by Salisbury and Yeovil,
going off the first route at Basingstoke or Aniiover and
coming into it again at Chard ; and it makes a difference of
no more than three or four miles to go round by Taunton and
Wellington, following the G. W. R. line from Langport in
the heart of Somerset, for which one turns off beyond
Sparkford. A still longer round (194 miles) is by Bath and
Bristol to Taunton, whence the road to Exeter accompanies
the G. W. R., while the direct way keeps near the
L. & S.-W. R. In coming from Taunton, indeed, beyond
Cullompton (see below) cyclists find their best road in turn-
ing from the course of the Culm to that of the Clyst, where
they strike the L, &S.-W. R. route; but the more picturesque
way is to hold down the Culm to the Exe valley.

By rail to Exeter, we have these two main routes, the
Great Western from Paddington, and the London and South-
western from Waterloo, whose express trains have rivalled
each other in speed. The G. W. R., hitherto handicapped
by its bend through Bristol, is now cutting off some score of
miles from this roundabout route to Exeter ; and after the
completion of its new line through the heart of Somerset,
may be expected to give the shortest journey.

1

LONDON TO EXETER

GREAT WESTERN ROUTE TO EXETER

Taunton is the great junction of diverging lines, whence
the main route holds on up the valley of the Tone, near the
foot of the Black Down Hills to the south. Towards the
farther end of this ridge, above the town of Wellington, the
Wellington Monument stands conspicuous, looking far over
Devonshire, which we enter through the tunnel under White
Ball Hill, before reaching the next station, Burlescomhe.

The first Devonshire station of consequence is Tiverton
Junction, where two branches go off, right to Tiverton (for
which see p. 43), left to Hemyock, at the back of the Black
Down ridge, to which the leisurely tourist might make a
pleasant digression of 7 miles.

Culm Valley Line

[Tiverton Junction to Hemyock (7 m.). — This little
branch line continues along the valley of the Culm, through
pleasant pastoral scenery, and by the stations of Uffculme
and Oulmstock. At the former village the Church displays
a considerable variety of Gothic architecture.

Hemyock (Hotels : Gulm Valley, Star), or Hemmick, stands
agreeably situated at the foot of the Black Down Hills.
Here are some ivy-shrouded ruins, and the grassy moat of a
Roman castle, which played its. part in our own civil wars.
The gateway is in good condition. Hemyock Church
exhibits Early English and Decorated characteristics. Good
trout-fishing may be had at Culm Bridge. The Culm, if we
mistake not, is the stream running through Mr. Blackmore's
novel Perlycross, which, as yet, however, has not done for
this quiet neighbourhood what Lorna Doone did for
Exmoor.

From Hemyock may be taken a pleasant walk of half a dozen
miles across the Black Down Hills and by the Wellington Monu-
ment to Wellington on the other side. Southwards, a walk of
near twice as far would bring us to Honiton by Dunkeswell (p.
13) through fine hilly country.

The ridge of the Somerset Black Down Hills rises to about 1000
feet, and runs for 10 miles from Castle Neroche at the eastern end

THE CULM VALLEY 3

to Sampford Point, beyond the Wellington Monument. Reached
from either side, this western buttress, or the lofty monument,
gives a grand Pisgali view over Devon, northwards towards its
cliff-edged coast, westward across the valley of the Exe to the
heights of Dartmoor, and on Exmoor to the north.]

On the main route, the next station is CuUompton
(Hotels : White Hart, Victoria Temperance, etc.), a quiet old
town of 4000 people, once flourishing on wool, and now on
the papermaking that has become a chief industry here-
abouts. Its broad street shows some good old houses ; and
it has a notable church worth stopping to see. We are here
13 miles from Exeter, 16 from Crediton (p. 46), and 11 from
Honiton (p. 11).

The Church, its red tower a conspicuous object from the rail-
way, dates in the main from the loth century; but one John
Lane, a CuUompton clothier, built, 1528, the elegant Decorated
chapel on the south side. The roof is elaborately enriched with
fan tracery. The screen, decorated with the vine leaf, is exquisitely
carved ; and very curious indeed is the portion that remains of
the oaken Calvary, preserving its accessories of skulls and bones,
and the mortice wherein the rood was formerly inserted. When
the building was restored in 1849, the plaster was removed from
singular frescoes ; amongst others, St. Clara in a robe of saffron,
St. Michael weighing human spirits in his balance, St. Christopher
surrounded by quaint fishes, and such mermaids as Tennyson
never dreamed of.

About two miles north-east of CuUompton is Bradfield Hall, a
fine old Elizabethan mansion, with gables and mullioned windows,
that has been well restored, keeping its original oaken roof.

Hele comes next, on the sparkling Culm, a place of note
chiefly for its large paper-mill, but its station serves the
ancient borough of Bradninch, a long mile on the
CuUompton road, now come down to a large village, pre-
serving a composite Church with an elaborate screen, and,
in what was once the Guildhall, some relics of its former
state, while the manor-house has some carved oak rooms.
On the other side of the railway, farther off (4 miles), lies
Plymtree, a pretty village, whose Perpendicular church has
also a renowned screen with painted panels, undefaced statues
of the Virgin and Infant Jesus niched in the tower, and
other ancient features.

4 LONDON TO EXETER

Near the next station, Silverton, is Silverton Park, where
the Earl of Egremont began an ambitious classical mansion,
which was never finished, and whose many columns and
empty chambers would have cost a great fortune to complete
according to the design ; so, after making a laughing-stock
for more than half a century, it has now been demolished by
means of dynamite. A little farther on, to the left, is
Killerton Park, its mansion girt about with patriarchal trees.
Above this, overlooking the Culm valley, rises Dolbury
Camp, for whose legendary renown see p. 43.

At Stoke Canon, where the branch from Dulverton (p.
42) comes in, we are near Poltimore Park, a fine demesne,
south of which runs the high road from Cullompton. If
Stoke Canon have been reached by the road through
Bradninch, there is hence a choice of hill and valley roads
to Exeter (4 miles), the former giving fine views (p, 36).
The railway naturally takes the latter way, now leaving
the course of the Culm for that of the Exe, along which it
runs into Exeter under a bank of woodland, which, up to
the last, hardly suggests to the traveller his approach to a
large city. On a hillside to the right is seen Pynes, the
residence of the Earl of Iddesleigh (p. 37), then our line
meets the L. & S.-W. R. coming out of Exeter, which, as
also in the case of Plymouth, these rival routes enter and
leave in opposite directions.

THE LONDON AND SOUTH-WESTERN ROUTE

This line, with its branches to the sea-coast, requires
fuller description, that will delay us on the journey to
Exeter. It goes through Surrey, the north side of Hants,
and the south of Wilts to Salisbury, the chief half-way
station. At Semley (station for Shaftesbury on the heights
above) it begins to cut through corners of Dorset; then,
some miles to the right, one may catch the high-built King
Alfred's Tower on the hilly edge of Somerset, in which
county mainly lies its next stage. Beyond Crewkerne it is
guided towards Devonshire by the windings of the Axe, a

THE AXE VALLEY , 5

word for water that so often recurs here and elsewhere in
sucli varied forms — Exe, Aix, Usk, Uisk, whiskey, etc. On
the bank of the river, to the left of the line, is seen Ford
Abbey, which, once in an outlying part of Devon, is now
included in Dorset.

Ford Abbey is a fine monastic foundation of the 12th century
converted into a modern dwelling-house. The present buildings
display various styles of architecture, ranging from the transition
Norman to modern classicalities, but they form a fine and striking
group ; and some of the apartments with their decorations,
notably the famous tapestiy of Raphael's cartoons presented to
the owner by Queen Anne, are among the sights of the neighbour-
hood, open to visitors on Thursdays in the summer months. The
oldest part is the Chapel and Monk's Walk, a 13th-century cloister.
The Grecian Porch is one of the incongruities of Inigo Jones, the
architect employed to secularise this structure.

Next comes a short branch for Chard, through which we
could come into connection with the G. W. K. at Taunton.
Then, still following the green valley of the Axe, we reach
the first Devonshire town.

AXMINSTER

Hotels : George, Bell, etc.

This town stands to the south of the railway, where was
once a British, afterwards a Saxon settlement ; and a castle
was built here in 916 on the site of the present market-
place. The Minster shows a curious mixture of styles, the
greater portion of the fabric being of the reign of Richard
II. An ancient circular font, three sedilia, an arched
piscina of good workmanship, an oak pulpit finely carved,
and a Saxon doorway at the east end of the south aisle, will
repay examination.

The carpet manufacture, which once made the name of
Axminster a household word, has long been removed, and it
is now a quiet little borough of about 2500 inhabitants,
interesting to the tourist chiefly as a stopping-place from
which excursions might be made. It is perhaps best
known to strangers as nearest station for the beautiful

6 LONDON TO EXETER

Dorset harbour of Lyme Regis (5 miles). Hitherto the
connection with Lyme, as with its neighbour Gharmouth, has
been by an omnibus service from Axminster Station ; but a
light railway is now in progress that should prove a great
relief to horse-flesh on these steep roads. But Axminster
lies among picturesque hill and dale scenery that makes it
worth stopping at on its own account. The Dorsetshire
heights, eastward, are particularly alluring to the pedestrian.

The valley scenery of the Axe hereabouts is very pleasing in the
pastoral style, and good fishing for small trout can be had. Its
tributary, the Tart, to the north of Axminster, might be pleasantly
explored as guide northwards to Yarcombe, near another edge of
the county, whence one can pass over to Upottery, and descend the
course of the Otter to Honiton. Without going so far up, one can
cross from one valley to the other, over the ridge of Stockland
Hill, that at one point rises to nearly 800 feet, 2 miles east of
Stockland village.

The direct road to Honiton (9 miles) also takes an airy
course, passing to the north of Shute Hill (567 feet), on the
south side of which, seen from the railway near Seaton
Junction, lies Shute with its woods, deer park, and noble old
mansion deserted by the Pole family, whose memorials may
be seen in the picturesque church. Sir William Pole was
the well-known Devon antiquary, whose descendants built
themselves a new home on an adjoining height. Thence by
Wilmington and the park of Widworthy this road mounts to
over 700 feet before descending from Honiton Hill to
Honiton (p. 11). Before going on, however, let us turn aside
to Seaton and a fine stretch of the coast.

AXMINSTER TO SEATON

The road (7 miles) goes out down the east side of the
Axe, on whose bank are passed the slight remains of the
Cistercian Abbey of Newenham, then a mile farther on is
Ashe House, birthplace of the great Duke of Marlborough,
now a farm. In 3 miles comes Musbury, on the hill
above which is a British camp. A mile beyond we have a
choice of routes. One may keep down the same side to

SEATON 7

AxmotLth, which has a church with a good Norman door-
way and moulded arch ; and above it is another camp on
Hawkesdown Hill. The names of the inns here {Ship, etc.)
show how this was once a harbour, but now it is nearly a
mile to the actual mouth of the river, by a road which may
be found flooded at high tide ; then a toll bridge (Id.) lets
one over to Seaton. The safer way is to cross by the bridge,
about 2 miles back, into that tiniest of boroughs, Colyford,
from whose post-office there goes a winding road down to
Seaton.

The railway branch turns off the main line at Seaton
Junction (Shute Arms Hotel), and goes on the right of the
Axe, presently swollen by the Coly coming down from the
wooded heights that form such inviting landscapes west-
wards. The chief place on the way is Colyton, whose
hotel, Golcomhe Castle, is named from the camp -crowned
height to the north. The little town lies pleasantly situated
at the confluence of the streams, and has a stately church,
with a stone screen and an altar tomb said to commemorate
the beautiful Margaret Courtenay, daughter of the Earl of
Courtenay by Princess Katherine (daughter of Edward IV.).

The only other station is Colyford farther on ; then the
branch ends at the mouth of the river, some half mile east
of Seaton.

SEATON

Hotels : Beach, Clarence, Pole Arms, Lion, Gould's Temperance.

This pleasant bathing place lies on an opening among
the hills near the Axe estuary, consisting of an old village
running inland, and of an esplanade along the great bar of
shingle on a curve between the White Cliff to the west, and
the Haven Cliff across the river. Huge letters along the
front of the esplanade proclaim Seaton as the Eoman
Moridunum, a pretension not undisputed. There is good
bathing, not so safe near the river mouth, where bass-fish-
ing may sometimes be had. A spacious golf ground on the
Haven Cliff is among the attractions of a place that makes
an excellent playground for children ; and the only thing

8 LONDON TO EXETER

to be said against Seaton is that the cliffs westward are too
much taken up by private residences.

Kound these cliffs, or by road westward (about 1^ mile), is
reached Beer, which seems to be growing faster than Seaton
itself of late years, and has a fine modern church, in con-
trast with the old one of its neighbour. Once a nest of
smugglers, as one may know from the curious memoirs of
John Rattenbury, the " Rob Roy of the West," Beer is
now peacefully occupied in the lace-work that flourishes
hereabouts. Originally one long street dropping through a
deep combe, it is extending in villas and lodging-houses on
higher ground. The old inns (Dolphin, Anchor, etc.) have
long been known to artists, drawn here by the broken
beauties of Beer Head, a mile to the south, the chief
promontory between the Lyme and the Exe, and the western
end of the chalk cliffs. On its top is a wild common most
picturesquely broken into chalky ruins at the edge, where
rough paths lead down to a fringe of landscape and a shore
strewn with huge fragments. Round the cliff, a coast-
guard path may be followed to Branscombe Mouth, a
mile farther on, from which one winds up to the scattered
village of Branscombe, with its old church in a hollow. It
was near this that Telford proposed to begin a ship canal
to Bridgewater Bay, so as to unite the Bristol and British
Channels.

The road from Beer to Branscombe takes a shorter course
inland over the heights. About a mile behind Beer is a
famous quarry of white freestone, whose long underground
ramifications may be explored by lantern light, not without
a guide. This used to be lit up once a year by a host of
candles ; but such a spectacle appears to have gone out of
favour.

Besides scrambles on Beer Head, longer walks may be taken to
the hills and camps inland, such as Blackbury Castle (600 feet),
rising to the right of the main Exeter road, that passes a good
mile north of Seaton, and to which a by-road leads from Beer by
Bovey House, an old manor with some notable features. But the
whole of this up and down country we must pass over lightly,
giving more attention to the stretches of the coast eastward and
westward from Seaton.

THE LANDSLIPS 9

Lyme Regis by the Landslips. — To the east of the
Axe, 7 miles of Devonshire bring us to Lyme Regis, on
the edge of Dorset. The inland country is picturesquely
broken by hills and woods ; but the glory of this corner is
the coast-line, where, beyond Culverhole Point, 2 miles east
of Seaton, the slipping of chalk and lias cliffs has formed a
confused wilderness, the most beautiful scene of the kind in
England, not excepting even the Isle of Wight Undercliff.

The road to Lyme runs back to Axmouth (p. 7), whence it
loops up the valley in two branches, of which the left is the
prettier, but the right should be taken if we wish to gain the
Landslips from behind. After crossing the bridge at Seaton (Id.
toll), the third gate on the right (formally closed once a year) opens
a footway up to the Coastguard Station, whence a path may be
taken along the cliffs, or one may gain them from below. This
way through the mazes of tumbled ground is often rough and
hard to find, and the less adventurous course is to drive or walk
to Bowlands Farm on the road above, thiough which a charge of
6d. is made for descending to the Dowlands Landslip, so called
par excellence, but the whole coast onwards to Lyme has long been
liable to subside from its treacherous foundations. The shore may
also be gained from the ancient farm-house of Bindon, nearer
Seaton, where also a small toll (3d.) is levied for access. Horses
are put up at either farm ; cycles also might be stabled.

The way through Dowlands leads down to a dome-like knoll ot
chalk, crowned by a pole, marking a central point of the devasta-
tion produced by the great landslip of 1839, when the chalk and
sand of the upper cliff slipped away from the lias below, forming
a rugged chaos, now overgrown by grass and brushwood, as beauti-
ful as wild. Nearly a mile of the coast then sank from 100 to 200
feet. If we come down through Dowlands, some of the finest
effects of natural ruin must be looked for towards Seaton. Hence
one can walk on to Lyme by the shore, the path making labyrin-
thine windings through overarching thickets. Beyond the next
opening in the cliffs, a coastguard flagstaff may be steeply climbed
to for a view over this scene of tangled greenery ; but caution is
suggested by a monument to a victim of such slippery slopes. A
narrow track runs on below, at times almost buried in bowery
shade. In a tiny ravine, where steps lead down to the sea, we
find the chalk changing to sand. Near this, the Chapel Hocks
enclose a secluded hollow in which the nonconformists of Lyme
stealthily met for worship under Charles 11. By the Pinney Cliffs,
we come to the last stretch of the maze, beneath unstable heights,
always ready to crumble, to be undermined by springs or washed
away by the waves, where the romantic confusion of old date has

10 LONDON TO EXETER

been still more picturesquely confounded through fresh landslips.
The broken and bosky charms of this wilderness were well known
to Lyme visitors in the days of Jane Austen and of Miss Mitford.
A large green mound, the "Giant's Grave," and an opening known
as "Donkey Green," are prominent spots among the rank copses,
brightened by wild flowers, blossoms, and berries. On the height
above will be seen a column of rock, known as the "Chimney,"
to which one might scramble up for a wider outlook, or spend
hours in rambling through the hillocks and thickets below, not
without places where refreshments may be had in the season. By
a wicket gate opposite the buildings of St. Michael's College, one
gets out on the road leading down into Lyme, or can descend the
rough slope to the shore near its famous " Cobb," the breakwater
at this end of the town.

It is difficult to calculate one's distance in miles over such
broken ground, or even to keep a path that has so many divagations.
To trace a way all through the landslips would be a matter of some
hours ; but at more than one point the road on the cliffs behind
may be gained. In walking by the road, beyond Dowlands, a
corner is cut off by taking the drive between the red-roofed lodges
of Rousdon (Sir W. Peek), passing the beautiful new Church with
its sweet chimes, the many-gabled mansion that, when mellowed
by time, should make a good specimen of Victorian architecture,
imitating an earlier style, and an observatory, in which the late
baronet took much interest. The rest of this demesne is private.
On the height above Lyme Regis, we leave Devon, within which
county lies Uplsone, on the Axminster road ; but the town itself,
nestling beneath its blue lias cliffs at the mouth of the Lyme, is in
Dorset, while we understand it has an ambition to go over to
Devon.

Seaton to Sidmouth. — The road from Seaton to Sid-
mouth is called about 9 miles ; but the pedestrian who
follows the coast must look on that figure as a mere rateable
value, and will find the journey nearly doubled in exertion
by trying ups and downs upon cliffs between 400 and 600
feet high, broken by beautifully overgrown combes. For
part of the way, he may turn back to the Exeter high road
running farther inland. If he count on keeping the rough
paths near the edge of the cliffs, he must have a sharp eye
and stout breeches, not to speak of nailed boots, while
walking on the shingle below is still more arduous.

The projection of Beer Head makes a mile or two more than the
road behind to Branscomhe (4 miles). A middle course is to turn up
from Beer to the quarries, just beyond which a lane begins a path

HONITON 1 1

over the hill — there are said to be seven such paths, but this one
will be easiest found and followed. Behind the churchyard at
Branscombe another path leads up through a wood to knolls and
bluffs of turf on which are a camp and a group of tumuli. Here
one may descend by a lovely path and through some potato
plantings to the shore, or hold on along the Coxe Cliff to Weston
Mouth, a ravine half choked up by greenery, where one is not three
miles from Sidmouth — but such miles ! The next stage is by
Dunscombe Cliff's, over which we descend into another hollow at
the head of which the Church of Salcombc Regis beckons us to the
road ; else one more steep climb puts us on the height above Sid-
mouth (p. 17), where the chalk cliffs of Beer have now changed to
the deep red sandstone characteristic of this side of Devon. Of
these cliffs we shall have more to say under Sidmouth.

Railway Route, continued. — From Seaton Junction, the
railway goes on to Honiton^ the chief town of this district.

HONITON

Hotels : Dolphin, Angd.

Backed by an amphitheatre of wooded heights and lying
in the valley of the Otter, Honiton is one of the most agree-
able of Devonshire towns, which deserves more attention
from tourists. It has a name for the prosaic manufacture of
butter, as well as for the delicate handmade lace, of which
Queen Victoria's bridal robe was fashioned. The lace manu-
facture was introduced here by the Flemings in the reign of
Elizabeth, and has extended to several of the neighbouring
villages. If all stories are true, this industry seems
threatened by the School Boards, for it is said to require a
pliant dexterity of finger to be gained only in childhood ;
but the specimens to be seen at Mrs. Fowler's, in the High
Street, do not show any signs of decadence.

Honiton has two churches — St. PauVs, built in 1837,
containing an original painting, "The Descent from the
Cross," by W. Salter, K.A., a native artist ; and the old
parish church of St. Michael, on high ground south of the
town, partly restored, preserving a good screen, and at the
entrance the black marble tomb of Thomas Marwood,

12 LONDON TO EXETER

physician to Queen Elizabeth, who practised so successfully
on himself that he reached the age of 105. There is an old
GramTnar School near the new church, which marks the
centre of the long broad street, such a lively scene on its
Saturday market-days. Fishing can be had, and otter-
hunting is among the sports of the district.

The town consists mainly of that one thoroughfare, at
the top of which unite the roads from Taunton and Ax-
minster. A little below, to the right, lies the course of the
Otter. To the left, just beyond St. Paul's Church, goes off a
cross street leading to St. Michael's past the station. This
church stands beautifully on high ground ; and from its
pretty churchyard there is a fine view over the town, the
valley of the Otter, and on the wooded heights behind,
where are conspicuous the bold head of St. Gyres Hill
opposite, Tracey House upon its side, the ridge running
along westward to Hemhury Fort (p. 13), and north-eastward
the clump-crowned Dumpton Hill (p. 13), that makes such
a prominent landmark. West of the church rises Gittisham
Hill, over which goes the road to Sidmouth (9 miles), turning
off at the lower end of the town. Eastward is the moorland
ridge of Honiton Hill, by which mounts the Axminster road.
Bound the corner of this, a short 2 miles out, stands a
tower, from which another fine prospect may be had to the
south.

From such points of vantage is well seen what finely
varied country invites exploration about Honiton. We will
suggest a few excursions to the pedestrian, who can also be
recommended to the high-running roads for Sidmouth and
Axminster, while swift cyclists may rather admire the main
highway to Exeter, beyond Honiton taking a straight stretch
of Eoman road.

The road going past the old church southwards leads along
Farway Hill, its crest dotted with the tumuli that, like old camps,
are such common features of the heights hereabouts. About 2^
miles out, near the highest point (over 800 feet), one might descend
on the left to Farway, a little village beyond which, by Netherton
Hall, a way up another lofty ridge leads back to the road over
Farway Hill. Had one kept on this road southwards, half a
dozen miles would bring one into the high road from Lyme to

AROUND HONITON 13

Exeter, about half-way between Seaton and Sidmouth on either
hand.

St. Gyres Hill, the wooded head overlooking the town beyond
the river, may be reached by a way that would give a good sample
of this green country. Go out by the road for Combe Raleigh,
crossing the river a little above a bathing-place (to be gained by
an alley near the Dolphin and over a couple of fields). Beyond
the bridge, by the first cottage at corner of a wood, take a lane
(left) and almost at once a path over a stile (right). Keep up the
fields in same direction till a drive is crossed, within which, a few
yards on the right, another stile lets one into the field beyond.
Here turn up to the hill, trending right for the stile at the
further corner, beyond which the way is plain. From outside
the wood there is a good view over Honiton and the heights to
the north and east.

Through the wood and a little along the ridge a way might be
found down to the Cullompton road on the south side. Or at the
bottom of the field outside the wood a rough lane descends to
Combe Raleigh, whose thickly ivied Church tower is very visible;
and thence a pleasant half hour's road leads back to Honiton.

From the mill beyond Combe Raleigh one might make a short
cut to Dumpton Hill (854 feet), which, crowned by a camp and a
clump of trees, makes such a conspicuous landmark far around.
The road leading to it (under three miles) goes off" from the high
road to Taunton, a little beyond the top of the town, crossing the
Otter at Langford Bridge ; then Ford Bridge, a mile higher up,
gives a change of way for return to the Taunton road.

The road to Cullompton (page 3, 11 miles) turns right from the
main street, a little way beyond the Dolphin, near the post-oflSce.
It crosses the Otter below the woods of Tracy House, going on to
Awliscomhe under the slopes of St. Cyres Hill ; then, 4 miles out,
beside the lofty road comes Hembury Fort (665 feet), the most
notable of the ancient strongholds in this district, if not the best
specimen of a Roman camp in Devon. It is oval in shape, divided
into two parts by an earthwork, and enclosed by a triple vallum.
Some antiquaries have identified it with the Moridunum of An-
toninus ; but this Roman station seems more probably to have
been High Peak, near Sidmouth, while Seaton also puts in a claim
by the gigantic inscription in front of its esplanade.

The by-road southwards from Hembury Fort would lead, in
about 3 miles, by Fay Hembury to Sidmouth Junction, where train
could be taken back to Honiton or on to Exeter. Northwards a
way leads over the heights to Dunkeswell (about 4 miles), where
are some remains of the ancient Abbey. Thence one could return

14 LONDON TO EXETER

to Honiton by Combe Raleigh in some half-dozen miles, or hold on
northwards about as far to the railway at Hemyock (p. 2).

Railway Route, continued. — From Honiton the L. &
S.-W. K. keeps westward, at first accompanying the high road
to Exeter (17 miles), which presently crosses it, taking a
straighter line to the south, through Bochheare and Honiton
Glyst, to enter the city over Heavitree Hill (p. 36), where
tram lines become a guide to the High Street. The first
station, some 4 miles along the railway, is Sidmouth Junction^
whence a branch goes southwards with the Otter. But
before turning aside for this part of the coast, we may as
well hold on the dozen miles to Exeter. Whimple is the
next station, beside which is seen a specimen of the goodly
churches that are the rule in this neighbourhood. We now
pass from the valley of the Otter to that of the Clyst, which
falls into the Exe below Topsham, after threading a string
of villages that bear its surname. Broad Clyst is nearly
2 miles north of its station, from which Honiton Clyst lies
almost as far south. Pinhoe, the next station, a mile south
of Poltimore Park (p. 4), is almost in the suburbs of Exeter.
The main line now joins the branch from Exmouth, and
under Eougemont enters Queen Street Station, the principal
one of this railway, from which its trains for Plymouth go
on to St. David's, and there make a junction with those of
the G. W. E. (p. 23).

TO SIDMOUTH AND BUDLEIGH SALTERTON

Let us now return to Sidmouth Junction, a dozen miles
short of Exeter. Here goes off a line to Sidmouth, branch-
ing on the way for Budleigh Salterton, which latter branch is
being continued to Exmouth to meet there the L. & S.-W. R
rail from Exeter, so that, when completed, it will form a
loop line along a very charming part of the coast.

In 3 miles is reached a small town of no small
interest.

t

OTTERY ST. MARY 15

OTTERY ST. MARY

Hotels : King's Aiins, London etc.

This town has twice suffered from great fires, so cannot
be expected to show much antiquity. Silk-spinning and
the manufacture of lace have taken the place of the old
staple of Ottery trade, the serge manufacture. It is a
pleasant place of 4000 inhabitants, amid attractive scenery,
which would tempt those who find the world too much
with them at Sidmouth, in its summer season. Its own
chief attraction is the ancient Church originally founded by
Edward the Confessor, and bestowed upon the Abbey of
Kouen ; rebuilt by Bishop Bronscombe, 1257-1280; com-
pleted, and converted into a collegiate church by Bishop
Grandison, about 1340. One of its priests was the eccentric
Alexander Barclay, translator of The Ship of Fools (d. 1552).
It was thoroughly restored in 1850, so as to afford the
architectural student a worthy subject for study.

The Church of Saints Maiy and Edward recalls the plan of
Exeter Cathedral, particularly in the arrangement of the towers at
the end of the transepts. The West Front, with its three stories,
seems to have been imitated from Exeter, though much more
simple. The doorway is deeply recessed, and surmounted by a
five-light window. A niche in the gable exhibits a figure of the
Virgin Mary, co-patron of the church. The South Tower is Early
English ; its string course terminates in fantastic corbel heads,
and in each face are inserted three lancets. The North Tower is
crowned by a spire. The Choir extends three bays into the Nave,
and is paved with tiles. The Lady Chapel is in the Decorated
style of Edward III.'s reign, while the Dorset Chapel, on the north
side of the Nave, is late Perpendicular ; it contains a fine western
window of six lights, representing the Transfiguration. It has also
a richly-groined roof, and exhibits the arms of Bishops Courtenay
(1478-1487) and Vesey (1519). Over each of the arches, supported
by the nave-columns, is a niche for a statue. The ceiling of the
Nave is very rich. In the chantry aisles the windows are by
Hardman, from Pugin's designs, and represent the Majesty of God
and Christ on the Cross. The modern Font will be admired for its
costly marbles. The stone reredos has been efi'ectively restored.
The canopied niches in the rear of the altar appear to have been
intended for pictures. Brackets for images are placed on either

16 LONDON TO EXETER

side, and niches for statuary fill the arch above. Five misereres
have been replaced on each side of the choir, separated by a low
oaken screen from the transept. Round an old wooden altar is
laid an elaborate pavement, and a vacant bay before the sanctuary
has been protected by a screen formed out of a 14th century
parclose. Remark the stone sedilia, and the gallery of stone, with
its pillars of Purbeck marble, which divides the Lady Chapel from
the Ambulatory.

Memorials to be noticed as those of Sir Otho de Grandison, d.
1360, brother of the bishop-architect, and Beatrix Malmaynes, his
wife, each reposing on an altar -tomb under richly - decorated
canopies ; Archdeacon Northwood, an incised stone despoiled of
its brass ; and John Cooke of Thome, d. 1632, an armed soldier
grasping his sword. The latter is said to have been murdered by
a younger brother, and his statue, therefore, steps down from its
niche at midnight and stalks through the silent church. In the
southern transept is the finely-sculptured tomb of Lady Coleridge.

The churchyard contains several monuments of the
Coleridge family, amongst them a granite cross, 12 feet high,
erected in 1877 in memory of Sir J. T. Coleridge. His grand-
father, father of Coleridge the poet, who was born here, first
came to Ottery as Vicar, and master of the Grammar School.
To the west of the churchyard is a seat of this family, now
illustrious both in law and literature, a red-brick mansion in
great part rebuilt, but retaining a room said to have been
occupied by Cromwell. Sir Walter Raleigh spent part of
his youth at Ottery, as did Thackeray, who has celebrated it
as " Clavering St. Mary," the vicinity being clearly the scene
of the early part of Pendennis. " Fairoaks " and " Clavering
Park " are still identified by the banks of the " Brawl," that
had S. T. Coleridge also to sing its praises. A sand cave in
the bank above the Otter, " The Pixie's Parlour," is pointed
out as a haunt of the boy genius nursed in this " varied
scene of wood, hill, vale, and sparkling brook," where so
many pleasant rambles may be taken. Anglers, as well as
landscape -lovers, would find themselves at home on the
course of the Otter ; and the coast, with its fine red clifi's,
is within a couple of hours' walk. Permission to fish the
best parts of the Otter is not given indiscriminately ; but
for about a mile above the sea the rive
hotels have tickets for preserved waters.

SIDMOUTH 17

On the top of Rockbeare Hill (500 feet) l^ mile west
to the left of the road to Exeter (1 1 miles), Mr. Nation has
now made public, through the National Trust, a park
commanding fine views.

Two or three miles south of Ottery the Salterton branch
goes off to the right at Tipton St. John's. The Sidmouth
branch now leaves the valley of the Otter, passing over high
ground by Harpford TFood, then descending to its terminus,
a mile behind the sea. A shady road leads on to the
Esplanade, with a turn left for the main part of the town.

SIDMOUTH

Hotels : Knowle, in its own grounds ; Bedford, York, on the Esplanade ;
London, in High Street.— Boarding Houses, The Glen, Norton Garth.

Before Torquay attained its present note, Sidmouth was
a fashionable watering-place of the west. The " Glen," at
the west end of the esplanade, was then occupied by the
Duke of Kent and his family ; and a fine stained-glass
window will be found in the Church, given by Queen
Victoria in memory of her father, who died here, as the
result of a chill caught in walking over the hills by which
the town is shut in. After falling behind its rivals, Sid-
mouth seems once more to be coming into favour again,
especially with permanent residents. It is now a cheerful
little place of over 3000 inhabitants, which has added to its
attractions Medical Baths for the treatment of heart disease,
rheumatism, gout, etc. ; and of late years its merits as a
winter resort have been much more recognised.

The climate of Sidmouth is mild, equable, and soothing,
recommended for weak chests and throats. The total rainfall
seems to be less than in other parts of South Devon. It enjoys a
high measure of winter sunshine, with hardly any fog. In
summer, statistics go to show it cooler than might be expected ;
yet a hot day must be oppressively felt at the foot of its glowing
cliffs. The drainage and water supply are, on the whole, well
attended to ; but some houses are still supplied by wells, as to
which caution is advisable.

The bathing is not very good, the shore being rather rough,

2

18 LONDON TO EXETER

where occasionally valuable stones may be picked up. There are
bathing machines and sands in front of the esplanade. Swimmers
prefer to go round the corner to the bay lying west ; when the
point is cut off by the tide, it may be reached by going up the
road on to Peak Hill, and taking the first path to the left. Here,
at high tide, one can quickly plunge into deep water off a bank of
shingle ; and a stretch of sand is exposed as the tide goes down.
On the other side of the Sid, also, men can bathe from the banked-
up beach.

The town lies in the centre of a bay, running back into
a horse-shoe valley behind, and filling up with its front a
break in the high cliffs of red sandstone crowned by green
pastures. The front is protected by a wall, forming an
esplanade some half-mile long; but Sidmouth has never
been able to build a pier or harbour, for all its costly efforts
to bridle the winter waves. At the east end of the sea front
the little Sid, gathered into a pool, filters its way through a
bar of shingle thrown up by the tide, now and again, after
heavy rains, bursting out more impetuously. Inland, along
the valley of this stream, are pleasant level roads and field-
paths ; but on either side, the Salcomhe and Peak cliffs must
be gained by a steep ascent of about 500 feet, which will be
well repaid. Once on these heights, however, one finds
stretches of fairly even ground, where it is hardly possible
to go wrong for airy and picturesque rambles.

The Parish Church was restored in 1860. It is adorned
with a handsome reredos, a hexagonal pulpit of Devonshire
marble, and much good coloured glass, including the west
window to the memory of the Duke of Kent. The other
church. All Saints', covered by ivy, that gives it a fictitiously
venerable air, stands back towards the station.

In summer cricket specially flourishes at Sidmouth ; and
the cricket field by the shore attracts many spectators. The
archery meetings here, also, are still well attended, as is the
lawn tennis tournament. Golf has made its addition to
these pastimes, and though the links, lying a little way back
from the town, are not very large as yet, they appear to be
well off for hazards. Boating and sea-fishing are to be had,
under some little difficulty, indeed, for want of a harbour.
The Sid^ in its small way, and the Otter^ not far off, are good

ABOUT SIDMOUTH 19

trout streams. Then the geologist, botanist, and concholo-
gist will find plenty of interest about this neighbourhood,
where no one need be at a loss for excursions. The best
views are naturally to be found on the cliffs. Looking sea-
ward, the eye embraces the whole of the coast which borders
the great bay of Devon and Dorset, beginning at Star Point
on the west, and stretching as far as Portland on the east.
On the downs behind will be found several barrows, standing
stones, and ancient camps as goals for excursions. In every
direction, the pedestrian has a choice of wanderings over a
country where the highroads are often as attractive as the
byeways. In summer, coach trips run to Seaton, Branscombe,
Budleigh Salterton, Exmouth, Exeter, and other points.
The immediate surroundings may be outlined thus : —

Salcombe is the peaked cliff (500 feet) to the east, reached by a
path from the little bridge near the mouth of the Sid. Behind
this rises still higher Salcombe Down, which commands all round
views reaching to Torquay and Berry Head. Thence the pedestrian
may expatiate on an amphitheatre of open heights shutting in the
valley of the Sid ; or in the first opening eastwards he may descend
to Salcombe Regis (2 miles from Sidmouth by road), whose Church
has a Norman Tower and Early English Chancel. This place must
not be confounded with Salcombe at the extreme south of the
county.

The way on to Seaton has been shown, p. 10.

Sidbury lies 3 miles up the valley, reached on foot by the
heights on either side, or by pleasant field-paths along the little
river. The Church has some Norman remains and interesting
memorials. To the west is a large kite-shaped Camp, Sidbury
Castle (600 feet), gained by leaving the Sidbury road a little beyond
Sidford, 1^ mile ahove Sidmouth.

To the west of Sidbury Castle rises the higher Beacon Hill, and
beyond this, above the Otter Valley, Harpford Wood, goals of
walks to the north-west of Sidmouth, that in 4 miles would bring
one to Tipton St. John Station (p. 17). Beyond this, Ottery St.
Mary (6 miles) is sure to be visited for its grand Church (p. 15).

Muttersmoor (650 feet) is another fine height to the west of the
town, for which one goes up behind the Roman Catholic convent,
above the Glen, then turning left may come down to the Peak
Road near the coast. A new driving road has been made here
that gives fine views.

Peak Hill (over 600 feet), prolonging the Muttersmoor ridge,

20 LONDON TO EXETER

shuts in Sidmouth to the west, crossed by a road ascending steeply
at this end of the town. Where this road gets clear of houses and
grounds, one may turn off to the cliff and descend by steps to the
shore. Holding along the cliff edge for a mile or so, one comes to
High Peak, an abrupt elevation topped by an ancient camp, whence
there is an extensive view. The cliffs are here composed of sand,
partly calcareous, and tinted with a ruddy hue by oxide of iron.
They now turn southwards towards the mouth of the Otter, and
lose their boldness ; but a short mile beyond the High Peak comes
what may be called the lion of Sidmouth, Ladram Bay, remarkable
for its picturesque arches and caves hollowed out in the red
sandstone by the waves. This point makes a favourite boating
excursion. Continuing the coast line on foot to Otterton Point,
one is brought up by the mouth of the Otter, but may cross by a
bridge half a mile above it, unless a chance of ferrying across
presents itself.

To Budleigh Salterton. — By rail, we have to go back to
Tipton St. John's, whence the Salterton branch holds down
the right side of the Otter that bars our way along the
coast. The way -stations are Newton Poppleford, opposite
Harpford Wood (p. 19), then East Budleigh behind Budleigh
Salterton. At Newton Poppleford one can cross the river
for a roundabout road to Salterton. The shortest way (6 to
7 miles) is by road over Peak Hill and down to Otterton,
which may also be reached by the cliff path. Here
pedestrians could hold down the river to a wooden bridge,
which brings them close to Budleigh Salterton.

Otterton is a considerable village on a low wooded cliff
overhanging the Otter. Close to the rebuilt Church bits of
ruinous wall mark the site of Otterton Priory. Beyond the
river, the road becomes less attractive except for Bicton on
the farther side, to the right of the way on to Salterton.

Bicton Lodge, the seat of the Rolles, is famous for its arboretum
and horticulture. The grounds are open on Tuesdays and Fridays
in summer, tickets being supplied through the libraries at Sid-
mouth, Budleigh Salterton, and Exmouth at a charge of one
shilling, or sixpence each for members of a party.

Bicton Church is a modern edifice of some architectural pre-
tensions, erected at the expense of Lady Rolle. A portion of the
ancient sanctuary has been converted into a family mausoleum,
and connected by a corridor with the gray tower that has escaped
the restorer's hand. At an intersection of roads stands an old Cross,
presenting upon its brick pedestal some scriptural quotations.

BUDLEIGH SALTERTON 21

The direct road to Budleigh Salterton, wliich diverges to
the left a little beyond the Otterton Bridge, passes by East
Budleigh {The Rolle Arms), nearly 2 miles inland from
Budleigh Salterton. In the Church is the pew of the
Raleigh family, dated 1537 ; and a grave slab inlaid in the
pavement of the nave commemorates Joan Drake, the first
wife of famous Sir Walter's father. Raleigh was born in
1552 at Hayes Barton, a picturesque Elizabethan farmhouse,
to be seen a mile west.

BUDLEIGH SALTERTON

Hotels : Rolle Arms, Feathers, etc.

This is a village de plaisance of some distinction. It lies
in and about an opening of the coast, a sparkling brook,
spanned by numerous rustic bridges, enlivening the garden-
girt villas, where myrtles and hydrangeas bloom lustily in
the open air to attest a genial climate. The place is
sheltered in winter, and claims to have a lower rainfall than
most parts of South Devon. The beach is famous for its
pebbles, beautifully marked, and so smooth that artists may
use them to paint on ; but this feature of the shore is not
equally admired by bathers. Budleigh Salterton is certainly
a place to be seen, while those who know it best would
perhaps prefer to have as little as possible said about it in
a guide-book. The railway cannot fail to make a great
difference ; but as yet the place retains its rustic simplicity,
albeit its cottages of gentility now begin to be neighboured
by dwellings of a more conventional type. The chief
ornament is a handsome new Church, built by the Rolle
family, who are beneficently autocratic hereabouts. There
are Baths, Public Rooms, Golf Links, and all that can be
expected of a rising resort, shut in by bold cliflfs and up-
land commons.

Behind the coast, miles of heathy heights, dotted by dark
clumps, rise between the valleys of the Otter and the Clyst. Wood-
bury Common is a general name for this fine upland, portions of
which are also called from the surrounding villages. The only
drawback to it as a rambling ground is that houses of refreshment

22 LONDON TO EXETER

are not encouraged on the great Rolle estate. A prominent point
is Woodbury Castle (nearly 600 feet), an ancient camp about 6
miles from the sea, whence one may find ways down to Ottery St.
Mary (p. 15), to SidmoiUh (p. 17), to Lympstone (p. 39), or Ex-
mouth (p. 40), to Woodbury and Woodbury Road Station laeyond it
(p. 39), or 2 miles north one could strike into the highroad coming
through Newton Poppleford (p. 20), about 7 miles out of Exeter.
The Black Hill above Lympstone is another fine view-point ; but
from many heights here one gets grand prospects over the mouth
of the Exe to the Haldon Hills beyond (p. 48).

A mile westward, along the cliffs, one gains the flagstaff on
Beacon Hill (400 feet), the highest point of the coast hereabouts,
with a grand outlook laoth landward and seaward. Here one may
turn down hj Littleham {\). 41) to the Exmouth Road, or hold
round the coast for a longer and sometimes rather rough path
which follows the cliffs to within a mile of Exmouth.

The Exmouth road (5 miles) goes more inland, but has
woodland charms of its own. At present the gap between
Salterton and Exmouth Stations is filled by an omnibus,
but the completion of the line will, as already mentioned,
form a loop round this corner of the coast.

At Exmouth (p. 40) we are within the limits of easy
excursions from Exeter, where our headquarters may now
be fixed.

PLAN OF EXETER

St. David's Church.
Victoria Hall.
Rougemont Hotel.
Institute for the Blind.
General Post-Offlce. |

Higher Market. I

Guildhall. |

St. Mary Arches Church. I
St. Olave's Church. |

AllhaUows on the Walls [

Church.
Lower Market and Corn

E)Kcliange.

ITalker GfBoutallsc

12. Cast.. Ml H..use.

No. 24.

Trinity Church.

1:J. Xew Loudon Hotel.

.. 2.5.

St. John's Church.

14. Electricity Works.

„ 26.

at Mary Steps Church.

1.5. St. Sidwell-s Church.

,. 27.

St. Mary Magdalene's

16. St. Catharines „

Church.

17. St. Michaels „

.. 28.

St. Edmund's Church.

18. St. Paul's

„ 29.

19. St. Stephen's „

„ 30.

Bedford

20. St. Lawrence's „

,. 31.

St. Thomas's

21. AllhaUows

.. 32.

St. Petroe's

22. St. Martin's

.. :«.

St. Mary Major ..

23. R. Catholic

.. 34.

Eniiiianuel

EXETER

Hotels: Pople's New London, oflF High Street ; Rougemont,'Q,neen Street, opposite
South- Western Station ; Royal Clarence, Cathedral Yard ; Queen's, Queen
Street ; Globe, Cathedral Yard ; Half Moon, High Street. Among the
smaller hotels may be mentioned the Bude and White Lion, Sidwell Street;
Elmfield and Railway, close to St. David's Station ; and City Commercial
(Temperance) opposite Queen Street Station, also Osborne (Temperance)
between the stations.

Railway Stations : Queen Street— London and South-Western. St. David's—
G. W. and L. & S.-W., half a mile away. St. Thomas's (stopping place
G. W. only for South Devon and Cornwall), across the river.

The approach from London by the G. W. R. is more picturesque ; but the
L. & S.-W. R. main station lands one nearer the heart of the city, while it
also carries passengers to the G. W. R. station at St. David's,

Cab fares : To most parts of the centre from the station, Is. ; Is. 6d. over a
mile ; 2s. over 1^ mile.

The city of Exeter, one of the most ancient in England,
with a population not far short of 40,000, though no longer
a seat of any special trade, has, as capital of this important
county and centre of a rich agricultural district, a con-
siderable stir of business to encroach on its cathedral dignity.
It is finely situated on the eastern bank of the Exe, whence
the lower part of the city rises to the plateau of the higher
by a steep slope, broken in the centre by bare sandstone
rock. From the colour of this rock the castle which stands
upon it derived its name — " Kougemont," — and the general
redness of soil which pervades all the country round Exeter
gives it a distinguishing character of its own among the
other large towns of England. Even the red walls and
creeper-clad front of the Jail (above Queen Street Station)
have an inviting air not common in such institutions.

The city itself retains many memorials of its antiquity,
23

24 EXETER

notably in and about the High Street, which makes its back-
bone from north-east to south-west. The heights around are
taken up by modern mansions, villas and spreading suburbs,
where the richness of the foliage and the " tumbledown oip
hills and dales " supply a picturesque setting.

History of Exeter. — The slope of a hill washed by such a river,
naturally invited a Celtic settlement, which was named Caer Isc^
the Fort on the Waters. In turn this came to be occupied by the
Romans, who threw up earthworks, and made it one of their
stipendiary cities, changing its name to Isca Damnoniorum, which
began to flourish through its neighbourhood to the Dartmoor tin-
mines. Then after undergoing various vicissitudes in the early
years of Saxon supremacy, the town was more firmly settled by
Athelstan (about 927), who protected it with walls, established an
abbey, and maybe regarded as the founder of Exeter. It was
ravaged on two or three occasions by the Danes, but, nevertheless,
grew so strong and prosperous that Edward the Confessor, in 1044,
removed thither the episcopal see, which for some centuries had
been established at Crediton.

At the Norman conquest, Exeter distinguished itself by its
resolute defence against King William. Its inhabitants, says
Ordericus Yitalis, cherished a deadly hatred towards their
insolent invaders, so the siege of Exeter, in the autumn of 1067,
made one of the most spirited scenes in the history of the
Conquest. Had the other great English towns resisted the
invaders with the same intrepidity, it may be that England would
never have been Norman. And, after all, the proud city fell
through the treason of foes within, not the valour of her enemies
without. During the siege forty-eight houses were shattered into
ruins ; and with their materials the Normans built a castle,
possibly upon the site of the Romano-Saxon stronghold. Its
custody was entrusted to Baldwin, son of Gilbert de Brionne,
appointed vicecomes of Devonshire.

The devotion shown to the Saxon kings came to be transferred
to their conquerors, and in the motto Semper Fidelis Exeter has
long boasted its loyalty to the crown, while bearing its share of
the sufferings caused by disputed succession. During the wars
which disturbed the reign of Stephen, Exeter took the Empress
Matilda's side, and the Earl of Devon, a nephew of the vicecomes,
garrisoned the castle in her name. The king marched against it,
besieged it for two months (1136), and starved the inhabitants
into surrender ; but Matilda remained so great a favourite with
the men of Exeter that for centuries afterwards an annual festival
was held in commemoration of her.

Rougemont was visited by Richard III. (September 8, 1483)
who connected it with a warning of his destined end —

HISTORY OF EXETER 25

" When last I was at Exeter
The mayor in courtesy shew'd me the castle,
And call'd it Rouge-Mont : at which name I started
Because a bard of Ireland told me once,
I should not live long after I saw Richmond."

The city was besieged by Perkin Warbeck and his adherents in
1497 ; and again, in 1549, by the Catholic insurgents, during the
"Great Devonshire Commotion," which resulted from Edward
VI. 's changes in ritual. The opening of the Ship Canal, in 1563,
led to Exeter's development as a trading place and the increase of
its wealth. At the time of the Armada, this city did its part in
contributing men and ships to resist the would-be invaders.

When the Civil War broke out, the Earl of Stamford seized
upon Exeter for the Parliament, but his defeat in May 1643 opened
the gates to Prince Maurice, after an eight months' siege. ' ' The
Faithful City" remained in the possession of the royalists for three
years, and the queen here gave birth to the Princess Henrietta,
afterwards the Duchess of Orleans. Her picture is in the Guild-
hall, presented to the city by her brother, Charles II. In April
1646 the city was captured by General Fairfax's Parliamentary
array, the castle being dismantled, and the fortifications demolished.

The next great event in the history of Exeter was the
triumphant entry of William of Orange, November 9, 1688. Since
then, like other English cities, Exeter has known none but
" victories of peace." Its municipal records, arranged and indexed
by Mr. Stuart Moore, form a remarkably full and almost unbroken
series, of great value in illustrating the social as well as political
history of the country.

Some famous natives or citizens of Exeter may be mentioned :
Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury, 1184-90 ; Joseph of Exeter,
a Latin poet of the 12 th century ; Richard Hooker, the
"judicious" author oi The Ecclesiastical Polity y:hich. still holds
its place as one of the masterpieces of English theological
literature ; Sir Thomas Bodley, 1544-1612, who established the
Bodleian Library at Oxford ; Simon Ockley, the Oriental scholar,
born 1675 ; Tom d'Urfey,^ 1650-1723, dramatist and ballad writer,
immortalised by Steele in the Tatler (No. 67) ; Eustace Budgell,
1685-1737, a contributor to the Spectator, satirised by Pope;
William Gandy, the portrait-painter, d. 1729, and buried in St.
Paul's Church, Exeter ; William Jackson, 1730, the composer of
many exquisite chants, madrigals, and glees, and for many years
the cathedral organist ; and Matthew Lock, musician, composer of
the music for "Macbeth." Among its bishops have been: Fox,
the founder of Corpus Christi Coll., Oxon. ; Miles Coverdale, the
translator of the Bible ; Gauden, the chaplain of Charles I., and
the supposed author of the Eikon Basilike ; and Bishop Jonathan
Trelawney, to whose rescue, at the trial of the Seven Bishops,

2b EXETER

the Cornish miners made ready to hasten, as celebrated in
Hawker's well-known ballad : —

* * And shall Trelawney die, and shall Trelawney die ?
Then thirty thousand Cornish men will know the reason why ! "

Among later citizens of Exeter, may be mentioned Professor
W. K. Clifford, whose career was prematurely cut short before he
had lived down the proverbial prejudice against a prophet in his
own country.

St. David's Station lies on the banks of the river, near
the transpontine suburb Exwick. From the open space in
front, one mounts up hill to the right, and turns left by the
new Church of St David's, then by the park called Bury
Meadow, a name commemorating a visitation of plague whose
victims were interred here. To the right, by a tall memorial
Clock Tower and Drinking Fountain, Queen Street would lead
us straight to High Street, near the Cathedral, passing the
Queen Street Station (L. & S.-W. R.). But beyond this station,
on foot, one can turn up left through the gardens of
Northernhay, and by the walls of the Castle, coming out at
the head of High Street, near the Post Office.

Northernhay is a small but beautiful promenade overlooking
the Queen Street Station, its shady walks ornamented with statues
of Sir Thomas Acland, Lord Iddesleigh, and other local worthies,
also E. B. Stephen's "Deer Stalker," considered the best work of
this local sculptor.

Rougemont Castle adjoins Northernhay, and can be entered at
the Queen Street end of the grounds. Passing round the ungothic
18th-century buildings of the Assize Hall, with a statue of
Earl Fortescue in front, from the enclosure to the left one may
ascend the walls for a view over the city, as far as the trees will
allow.

This was the Norman stronghold within which John Holland,
Duke of Exeter, built a stately mansion in the reign of Henry VI. ;
but both castle and mansion have fallen into decay. The most
interesting part of the ruins has been enclosed in the grounds of
the modern Rougemont Castle, the gate of which is passed on the
right, as one goes on down to High Street. On Thursdays, visitors
are admitted to these private grounds for a better view of what the
Castle once was. The Gateway here seems the oldest portion.

Beyond the Castle, a central knot of ways is reached at

HIGH STREET, EXETER 27

the top of High Street, where to the left drops the road
passing over Pennsylvania Hill to Stoke Canon (p. 36) ; the
main thoroughfare is continued by the tram-line of Sidwell
Street going out as the Black Boy Road (which is the Bath
road) towards Pinhoe ; and to the right by Paris Street
branches off the tram to Heavitree. On the farther side of
High Street here opens Southernhay, occupied by private
houses of old-fashioned dignity, which might be called the
Bloomsbury of Exeter.

Down High Street, on the left, is at once reached the Post
Office, with an Arcade beside it. Hereabouts are the best
shops. Farther down, on the same side, come the Cathedral
precincts, into which we might turn after passing the
junction of Queen Street ; but let us first hold on through
this main thoroughfare. On the opposite side is seen the
Guildhall, recently restored under the reverent eye of the
Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings.

The singular projecting front, supported by semicircular arches
which rest on coliiinns, dates from 1593. The principal room is
63 feet long by 25 feet broad. The walls are adorned with the
scutcheons of the city mayors, recorders, incorporated trades, and
benefactors. Among the paintings may be named — Henrietta
Maria, daughter of Charles I., and afterwards Ducliess of Orleans,
(born at Bedford House, in this city, June 16, 1644), by Sir Peter
Lely ; Monk, Duke of Albemarle, hj Lely ; George H., and Lord
Chief - Justice Pratt (Earl Camden), by Hudson, a native of
Exeter and master to Sir Joshua Reynolds, besides portraits of
local worthies, A marble bust of Queen Victoria commemorates
her late Majesty's Jubilee.

Behind the Guildhall lie the Police Offices, believed
appropriately to occupy the site of the Roman Prsetorium,
and the Markets opening into Queen Street. Beyond, High
Street is intersected by North Street, leading over an iron
bridge to St. David's, and South Street which becomes the
Topsham Road. The thoroughfare, now losing in dignity,
as Fore Street and Bridge Street drops to the bridge, over
which, through the suburb of St. Thomas, go out the main
road westwards, and on the right bank of the Exe. West
Street on the left, leads to the Quay^ where one can ferry
across to the head of the Ship Canal.

28 EXETER

THE CATHEDRAL

Divine Service three times a day : 7.45 and 10.30 a.m. and 3 p.m. Additional
on Sundays : evening service, 7 p.m. ; and morning military service,
9.15 A.M. Admission to choir at other times, 6d.

The glory and boast of Exeter is, of course, its Cathedral^
which, though inferior in design and size to many of our
English minsters, is, in some of its details, superior to all.
Its western front is admirable, and its interior almost fault-
less, the symmetry of the two sides being notably perfect.
The building was extensively renovated under the care of
the late Sir Gilbert Scott, K.A., at a cost of over .£40,000.

History. — According to Hoker, a Benedictine monastery, and
two other religious houses, formerly stood within the present
precincts of the Cathedral, and there is little doubt but that
Edward the Confessor, when he removed the episcopal see from
Crediton to Exeter, converted the monastery into a cathedral-
church, if he did not erect an entirely distinct building. Of the
Confessor's foundation, however, no remains exist. This
Cathedral dates from the reign of Henry I., when it was
commenced by Bishop Warelwast. The city being captured and
set on fire by Stephen, the Cathedral was so severely injured that
Bishop Quivil resolved, in the reign of Edward I. , to erect a new
building on a more splendid scale. He lived to finish the Lady
Chapel, and in his design he adapted the Norman towers of Bishop
Warelwast as transepts. That design, with sundry modifications,
was carried out by his successors for more than a century, the final
touches being given to it by Bishop Brantyngham. Its defect
is the want of a central tower to give dignity and majesty to the
exterior, which seems rather heavy without being imposing.

The Flan of the Cathedral is cruciform ; the arms, however, are
very short, the transepts having been formed out of the towers.
The entire length of the building (including the Lady Chapel) is
408 feet ; the towers, covered with blank arcades and other
Norman details, are 145 feet high. The windows are in the
Decorated style, and enriched with exquisite tracery. Between
them are bold flying buttresses, with crocketed pinnacles, support-
ing the clerestory, and the high-pitched roof is effectively orna-
mented with a fleur-de-lis crest.

The most striking portion of the Exterior, however, is the
Western Front, which consists of three stories : — the basement, an
elaborate screen, with a central doorway and a smaller one on each
side. The entire surface is occupied with canopied niches, each
containing a statue. The second story recedes slightly and con-
tains the noble west window of the nave, 39 feet by 27 feet, filled

THE CATHEDRAL 29

with nine lights, trefoiled, supporting a magnificent rose that shows
rich geometrical tracery. On each side are Decorated arcades, and
the wall is supported by two bold flying buttresses. The upper
story, receding behind the second story, is formed by the gable of
the nave, and adorned by a window smaller than, but similar to,
that which we have already described. The whole of the front
was carefully restored in 1817. Its statuary forms a remarkable
gallery of "patriarchs, sovereigns, prelates, nobles, saints, and
angels." Of these the figures of the English kings are, perhaps,
the most beautifully executed. Most of them, however, are in a
very dilapidated condition. There are in all sixty-seven figures.

The Interior is divided into.

The Nave, with north and south aisles.

North and South Transepts (St. Paul's and St. John's Towers).

The Choir and Aisles.

The Chapels, viz. —

1. St. Paul's (east side of the north transept).

2. St. John the Baptist's (east side of south transept).

4! St. George^s^ I (north of choir, in this order, east-

6.* St.* Mary Magdalene's/ wards).

6. St. James's \

7. St. Saviour's H south of choir, in this order, eastwards).

8. St. Gabriel's]

9. The Lady Chapel.

St. Edmund's Chapel, of much earlier date than the Nave itself,

with which Bishop Grandisson connected it, is now used as

the Consistory Court of the Bishop.

The Chapel of the Holy Ghost, generally overlooked by visitors,

is situated between the South Transept and the Chapter

House. It appears on a seal attached to a Chapter deed of

1237, and is unquestionably of very early date.

The Nave, 180 feet long, commenced by Bishop Quivil (1280-

1291), and finished and vaulted by Bishop Grandisson (1328-69),

is celebrated for the exquisite enrichments of its windows ; its bold

vaulted roof; the shapely clustered columns of Purbeck marble

which separate it from the aisles ; and its general simplicity and

grandeur. The western window forms a conspicuous feature. The

glass, however, is not good. A figure of St. Peter, the patron

saint of the cathedral, occupies the centre. From the clerestory on

the north side projects the curious ''Minstrels' Gallery," adorned

with well-wrought figures of angels playing on shawms and cithars,

harp, bagpipe, organ, trumpet, and tambourine — date, reign of

Edward III. On the north side is a beautifully-sculptured stone

pulpit, designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, in memory of Bishop

Patteson, murdered in the South Pacific Islands in 1871. The

Organ is one of the finest instruments in England. It was built,

in 1665, by John Loosemore, at a cost of £2000, and after being

30 EXETER

improved by various organ builders, was remodelled and entirely
rebuilt in 1891. Exeter has been noted for the excellence of its
choral service.

The Transepts are short and unimpressive. In the south
tower hang eleven bells ; the tenor, weighing 7522 lbs., the
gift of Bishop Grandisson, was cracked when ringing an exultant
peal on the discovery of the Gunpowder Plot. In 1676 it was
recast by Perdue, who also recast Great Peter of Exeter (in the north
tower), which weighs 12,500 lbs., and was brought from Llandafi
Cathedral in 1484 by Bishop Courtenay.

In the north transept is a curious astronomical clock, temp.
Edward III. The upper dial, which shows the minutes, was
added in 1760. The lower dial is divided into three parts, — the
earth in the innermost circle, the moon in the middle, and the sun
in the outer one. The moon, blackened on one side, is moved by
the clockwork.

The triple-arched Rood-screen, separating the Nave from the
Choir, had modern additions made in 1819. The original design
and workmanship {temp. Edward II.) are excellent, and the panels
are covered with a remarkable series of very rude and very ancient
oil-paintings on stone, of singular value as illustrations of early
English art. They represent— 1. The Creation ; 2. Adam and
Eve in the Garden ; 3. The Deluge ; 4. The Israelites crossing the
Red Sea ; 5. Destruction of Solomon's Temple ; 6. Building of
the Second Temple ; 7. The Angel and Zacharias ; 8. The Nativity ;
9. Baptism of Christ ; 10. Christ removed from the Cross ; 11. The
Resurrection ; 12. The Ascension ; 13. Pentecost.

The Choir is the richest and completest portion of the Cathedral.
It was commenced by Bishop Bytton, continued by Stapledon, and
completed by Grandisson (1329-69). The oaken "Misereres" are
some of the most ancient examples of Early English carving in
wood to be found anywhere ; the canopies recent. The Bishop's
Throne is a fine pyramidical structure of open tracery and pointed
arches, 52 feet high. Bishop Stapledon placed it here in 1316.
When the Puritans defaced the statues and broke the richly
painted windows, the throne escaped through having been taken
to pieces and concealed before the city was surrendered to Fairfax.
A handsome new Reredos, designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, 22 feet
high, of marble and Derbyshire alabaster, with precious stones,
occupies a large space at the east end of the choir. The centre
compartment is occupied by a sculptured group representing the
Ascension. The figure of the Saviour is supported on either side
by angels, while St. Peter, to whom the cathedral is dedicated,
occupies a prominent position. The transfiguration and descent of
the Holy Spirit on the day of Pentecost are also represented. The
pavement is formed of yellow and green glazed tiles like those at
Gloucester. The great Eastern Window (Early Perpendicular) dates
from 1380, and the stained glass is of the same date. A beautiful

THE CATHEDRAL 31

pulpit of Derbyshire alabaster, the gift of the late chapter-clerk,
was erected in 1876.

The Choir is separated from the aisles by an elaborate modern
stone screen. The aisles respectively terminate in St. Mary
Magdalene's Chapel, with aS*^. George's adjoining on the north, and
St. Gabriel's and St. Saviour's on the south.

The Lady Chapel, where early morning service is held, has fine
sculpture in the vaulting, and a restored Reredos, exhibiting the
Nativity and other Scriptural scenes. The East window is a
magnificent one, filled with memorial glass. The side windows
are in memory of Henry Fhilpotts, the militant modern bishop,
who so long ruled this diocese, and is still remembered for Ms
Gorham and other controversies.

The Chapter-House (1427-78), to the south of the south
transept, is a noble apartment, 75 feet by 30, with a richly-
decorated roof. The lower portion is Early English, begun by
Bishop Bruere (1223-44). The cathedral library of 8000 volumes,
increased some few years since by the gift of the private library of
the late Chancellor Harington, is in the new library over the
modern cloisters (see table). Here may be seen a copy of an
edition of Caesar, printed in 1471 ; the "Codex Exoniensis," a
MS. volume of Saxon poetry left by Leofric, first Bishop of Exeter,
and edited by Mr. Thorpe ; several Saxon MSS. ; the volume of
Domesday Book relating to Devon and Cornwall ; and the registers
of the see from the reign of Edward I.

There is a Crypt under St. James's Chapel, south aisle of choir.

The Cloisters are a partial modern restoration.

The view from the Tower would be recommendable, were Exeter
not so well otf for natural prospect points.

Principal Monuments

In the Nave — Brass of Sir Peter Courtenay, d. 1409. A bronze
memorial by Marochetti, of the 9th Royal Lancers who fell in the
Indian Mutiny.

In the North Transept — William Sylke, d. 1508. Above this
chantry (built 1485) was discovered, in 1852, a curious fresco of
" The Resurrection." — Jerusalem in the background; the apostles
and disciples around ; and Christ rising from the tomb, bestow-
ing a benediction with his right hand, and holding a crozier in his
left. Beside it is Chantrey's statue oi James Northcote, R.A.

In the South Transept — Hugh Courtenay, Earl of Devon, and
his Countess Margaret ; finely-sculptured effigies removed from
Nave. Tomb and effigies of Sir John and Lady Gilbert (1580).

In the Choir — North Side — Bishop Stapledon, founder of Exeter
College, Oxford, d. 1326 ; canopied effigy, in the decorated style.
Sir Richard Stapledon, his brother, d. 1326 ; effigy of a knight in
armour. Both knight and bishop were murdered by a mob in

32 EXETER

Cheapside for having too warmly espoused the cause of Edward II.
Bishop Marshall, d. 1206 ; effigy on a richly-sculptured tomb of
Purbeck marble. Bishop Carey, d. 1622. A singular effigy here
shows the figure of an emaciated corpse.

In the Choir — South Side — Bishop Weston, d. 1741 ; Bishop
Cotton, d. 1621 ; effigy. Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of Hereford,
slain at Boroughbridge in 1322 ; effigy in armour. Lieui. -General
Simcoe, d. 1806 ; a mural monument, with figures, by Flaxman.

In the Chapel of St. George — Sir John Speke, d. 1518 ; chantry-
screen and effigy, also memorial window to his descendant, Speke
the explorer of Africa.

In the Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene — Sir Peter Carew, slain
in Flanders, temp. Elizabeth ; effigy. Bishop Stafford, d. 1419 ;
altar-tomb and canopy, screen and effigy of alabaster, exquisitely
sculptured.

In the Lady Chapel — Bishop Peter Quivil, d. 1293 ; slab on the
floor, engraved with a floriated cross. Bishop Bartholomew, d.
1148 ; effigy. Bishop Simon de Apulia, d. 1223 ; effigy. Tombs
of Judge Doddridge (d. 1628), and his wife, Dorothy, whose effigy
lies in a quaintly uncomfortable attitude.

In the Chapel of St. Gabriel — Bishop Bronscombe, d. 1280 ;
effigy and tomb, very beautiful, of the same date, the screen and
canopy, temp. Edward III.

In the Chapel of St. Saviour — Bishop Oldham, d. 1519 ;
chantry-screen and effigy. Note, on the panels and in the window
glass, the repetition of owls as a rebus on the bishop's name.

In West Front — Burial-place of Bishop Grandisson; chantry,
St. Rhadegunde. St. Rhadegunde was the Queen of Clotaire, eldest
son of Clovis. There is a considerable amount of foreign character
in the architecture of this chapel, and indeed in the whole of the
Western Screen, in the thickness of which it was constructed. Its
founder's tomb was desecrated by Elizabeth's "visitors," and the
low arch upon which the bishop's statue reposed was at one time
open to the Nave.

The Bishop's Palace lies to the south-east of the Cathedral.
It was thoroughly renovated some half century ago, but
preserves some fine carving. On leaving a card at the
entrance in Palace Street, strangers are usually allowed to
enter the grounds.

The Cathedral Yard, irregular in its shape and its
buildings, makes a picturesque surrounding for the ancient
Minster. Among the old buildings here (at the corner of
a way into High Street) will be noticed Mors Coffee House, a
Tudor mansion, now Worth's Photograph Depot. On the
first floor is shown a fine oak -panelled roomi used for the

CHURCHES 33

exhibition of sketches, etc., of the district, containing a line
show of coats of arms, chiefly of county families.

Going down towards the north-east corner, one presently
passes a Tudor Arch, within which is the Law Library, a
hall notable for its carved corbels, which appears to have
been the Chancery of the Cathedral.

Beyond this, almost opposite the east end of the Cathedral,
another ancient Arch leads into a small Quadrangle, believed
to have been the home of some religious community.

Near the top of South Street is the College Hall or Vicar's
College, which contains some good old oak, and a gallery of
portraits of Bishops of Exeter and others.

These are only some of the old houses, more or less
restored, that will reward an antiquarian rambler round the
Cathedral precincts.

Clmrclies

In old days Exeter had 32 parish churches, and so
many monasteries as to be nicknamed Monk Town. Now,
with its suburbs, it counts almost as many churches, some
of which may be mentioned as interesting. There are
three lying about the Cathedral, St. Martinis, St. Petrock's,
and St. Mary Major's, with interesting monuments and other
relics of the past. In strong contrast to these is the
Chapel in Bedford Circus, close by, which marks the influ-
ence of the Simeonite school.

St. SidwelVs was built in 1813, on the site of the old
church ; and the tower has recently been rebuilt. The
pillars which separate the nave and the aisles were preserved
from the original structure. It has some fine ornaments,
and is rich in memorial windows. St. Sidwell was a virgin
martyr who stood high among the patron saints of Exeter.

St. Lawrence^ s, High Street, dating from before the 13th
century, has a good oak screen and a statue of Queen
Elizabeth, removed from a conduit which formerly existed
in High Street.

St. James's, recently re-erected in the Early English style,
contains a pulpit of Spanish carved oak, said to have
been captured in a Spanish galleon.

3

34 EXBTER

St. Mary Steps (West Street) exhibits a Norman Font,
notable screen, and a curious antique clock, whose thre
figures are popularly called Matthew the Miller (it reall
represents Henry VII.) and his two sons.

In the church of St. Mary Arches there are numerou
ancient memorials and a Norman arcade. The church wa
built upon arches, whence the name.

The ancient church of Allhallows, Goldsmith Street, lia^
been restored, but contains some interesting bits of antiquit\
as does its neighbour, St. Pancras (in Pancras Lane, behind
the Guildhall), perhaps the earliest complete church i:
Exeter, also restored.

St. Stephen's and St. Olave's, in the main line of street
should be visited by the archaeologist.

St. Edmund's, on the Bridge, is rich in stained glass.

The Roman Catholic Ghurch of the Sacred Heart, in Soutl
Street, is worth notice.

The most important modern building in Exeter is th
Albert Memorial Museum in Queen Street, opened in 1869'
Besides the Museum itself, the building contains a Fre*
Library, Schools of Science and Art, Art Gallery, etc.

Its style is Gothic, with variations, the special aim of th(
architect having been **to reproduce some of the picturesqui
character of the old city without copying any of the old forms o
its architecture." A good colour-efi'ect is gained by the use o
stones of various tint. A new wing was added 1899, giving raor
accommodation for the educational department. The first curato
was Mr. W. D'Urban, grandson of the Governor of Natal, who
though deaf from childhood, achieved for himself a position in thi
world of science. The museum is well stocked with exhibits o
Natural History and Geology, displaying the distinctive feature
of Devon and Cornwall. In an upper hall, among a large collectioi
of arms and armour, is a model of Exeter as it was near a centur
ago. An adjoining gallery has, among portraits of local nota
bilities, one of Sir Joshua Reynolds, and of William Widgery (b;
his son) whose landscapes from Dartmoor and its outskirts, ar
well represented here. There is also a collection of lacework.

The Victoria Public Hall (opposite Queen Street Station]
erected in 1869 for the visit of the British Association; th
Royal Public Booms ; and the Barnfield Hall of the Literar

PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 36

Society, built and opened in 1891, are available for lectures
and concerts. The new Theatre Royal, erected in 1886, was
burnt down soon afterwards, with great loss of life, and has
been re-erected, with special attention to safety against such
a catastrophe. The Devon and Exeter Institution has a good
Library and Eeading-Eooms. The Devon and Exeter, the
Exeter and County, the Northernhay, are the chief clubs ;
and Exeter is up to date in having a Ladies' Club also.

Among the educational institutions are the Grammar
School, and the St. John's Hospital School for boys, both
founded in 1637 from the funds of St. John's Hospital,
High Street, which dated from 1225. For the Grammar
School a new building was erected in the Victoria Park
quarter, 1880. The old buildings off High Street, now
hidden by the Post Office, enclose a quadrangle, in the
centre of which there is a statue of a hospital boy in his gown.
The High School for Girls is near the new Grammar School.

Good boating can be had on the canal, as also on the Exe ;
but in the latter this pastime is somewhat impeded by the
weirs, and by the tide, which comes up to a mile below the
city. A well-arranged Swimming Place will be found on
the river near the St. David's Station ; there is a Tepid
Swimming Bath about the middle of the High Street (in
King's Alley, close to Eland's Library). A Turkish Bath
adjoins the Rougemont Hotel. Football, cricket, and other
sports, have their headquarters at the spacious County Athletic
Grounds close to St. Thomas Station. The Golf Links on
the lofty road to Stoke Canon (p. 36) have a grand view.
The river, the canal, and the beautiful streams within reach
delight disciples of Isaac Walton. For information, permits,
etc., apply to Mr. Prickman, tackle maker. North Street.

WALKS AROUND EXETER

The country about Exeter is very rich and varied, the
vegetation testifying to the luxuriance of the climate, and
the heights about the river valley giving fine landscape
effects. Of the many rambles that might be taken through
the suburbs, we suggest a few, with hints for their extension.

36 EXETER

Mount Dinham, above the Exe, so called from the Free Cottages,
founded by Mr. Dinham for reduced tiadesmen, makes a good view-
point over the Exe as it bends round from St. David's on the west
of the city. This lies to the right of Bridge Street, as one goes
down, or may be reached by North Street, turning up left at the
iron Bridge, with the church spire on Mount Dinham for beacon.

From the height of Collaton Crescent, above the quay, one looks
over the river southwards, the view rather impeded by the private
grounds in front. (Reached by Holloway Street and Friars' Gate.)

From St. David's a peep of Devonshire rurality may be had
almost at once by turning up Howell's Road opposite the station,
and taking a footpath through rails to the left up a valley, whence
a lane on the right leads to Pennsylvania Hill. This height
makes a stiff half-hour's walk, reached also by bearing to the left
from north end of High Street, when at the top one can turn left,
then by a lodge on that side return through the enclosure of
Duryard Park (tickets Id.) coming down to the Cowley Bridge
Road beyond St. David's Station. But beyond this lodge, the
road holds on to Stoke Canon by the Golf Links, a little way farther,
at ''Prospect Gate," showing a noted view of the Exe, Greedy, and
Culm valleys, with the skirts of Dartmoor to the west.

Bearing to the right, at the turn to Duryard Park, one comes
to Heavitree.

Heavitree is a village now joined on to Exeter, a tramway
running up to it every quarter of an hour by Paris Street. The
Church has a noble tower rebuilt as a Jubilee memorial. The
parish contains two fragments of antiquity in the Livery Dole
Chapel, adjoining the rebuilt almshouses on the road above, and
a fragment of the St. Loys's Chapel in the village of Wonford,
which straggles along the road farther down. The Church stands
a little to the right of the road, before it drops from the height of
Heavitree.

This was the birthplace of the "judicious Hooker" ; and at
Heavitree House, below the Church, lived Richard Ford, author of
a Handbook to Spain, which in guide-book literature occupies
much the same place as tliat theologian's work in Anglican
divinity. The gardens of the house have a Moorish touch recalling
the owner's connection with Spain.

A lane from the Church past Heavitree House, leads across to
the Topsham Road. The first turning left becomes a footpath l)y
the Sewage Farm, crossing a stream at the foot of Pine's Hill, from
which there is a good view, not adorned by a large lunatic asyluni
on the farther side. Rising from this stream the path goes on
rustically, coming down into the Topsham Road by steps near
Countess Wear (see below). This is only a sample of lanes and
footways leading from Heavitree into very characteristic Devon-
shire aspects.

EXETER DISTRICT

Puddington/

Tivertonla5?1\sTA.
Town,

TIVERTON JUN./SjTAJ

^'"'M^Bichleim

Cullomptoi^^=4IA;

^Cadburii^ ^% j( A^

i\ Joradninch/'^

^v| foolbury M^ P'y^^^'^i

SU-^^ / STA

lELESTA.

ClistjSt. Laurence

St.Cyres

Jedburn

j^..Brp&dCtil
,^^J>3^ Ppttimore
I Pin hoe A

Whimplejffr^Tf^_

Holcombe
Burnell

WhitestoneS^j/v

;t]

^^^;,,^Mioniton Clist
' ,7 —^^ ^ ^( Aylesbeare^

[•'St. Mary'
^ Clist

DunsforC

Id,
Alphfngton'

DoddiscohpsleJig-ff^''f^.tmiQn£3"l'^ <^To^^l;am^>»=:=_i, Cas.

^^^ " «\|-<,^ HorT^)J(ennford\\\ yit /^WoodMFi

^St.Georde
^Cliit

\,Beluedefi

vHennocki

f^o^J^\^^tujetlQ^-.,^^ast

Budieigh

il^mpstone

fh udleigtm&h udli
Br, Ilm^K-

' /ff ^ II STARCRoss* ■* n\\ hf^'JP^'^ ^^-^ Ct

// -•.. I STA. ff SJA^ifl^^J^ ^-^S

Won

^Langstone Pt.

^TA.

rOawlish

Bisfi opsteigjiton

Comttdnt&pnfiead '""' ' ' ' ' '

IVal/cer GrBoutalt sc

WALKS AROUND EXETER 37

Past St. David's Station, the high road up the river leads in
about a mile to Cowley Bridge, and the village of Cowley at the
confluence of the Exe and the Greedy. Across the latter river on
the hill side is Pynes, the Earl of Iddesleigh's fine demesne, which
its owner identifies with "Barton Park" in Jane Austen's Sense
mid Sensibility. A path through the park gives beautiful pro-
spects on the Exe valley.

One can walk back on the farther side of the Exe under Exwick
Hill, where lanes and paths tempt upwards for a view upon
Exeter. At the industrial village of Exwick, where a road goes
out over well-wooded heights to the west, one can cross to St.
David's by a foot-bridge ; or one may hold on opposite Mount
Dinham to the bridge at St. Thomas's.

The bank of the Ship Canal affords a pleasant walk, that might
be prolonged to its opening into the river at Turf (5 miles), where
is an inn noted for the whitebait fished up here. A mile short of
this a ferry takes one over to Tojysham (p. 39), or, on the other
side, a path to Exmi7ister Station (p. 53). Two miles out, bridges
across both canal and river lead to Countess Wear, off the Topsham
Road. There is hence a path along the river wall down to
Topsham ; but this is apt to be dirty, and the muddy channel at
low tide makes no cheerful prospect. Towards Exeter a pleasanter
footway leads through Northhrook Park, and is continued by a
path near the river bank. Or from the Topsham Road, steps up a
bank on the right (at the top of descent part the gate of North-
brook) lead to the path by Pines Hill and Heavitree Church.

Across the river one goes by Cowick Street through the suburbs
of St. Thomas, past the G. W. R. station and a pretty bit of
public park, opposite which is the fine Church with its old tower
and monuments of the family of Sir Redvers Buller, who is lord of
the manor here. Beyond the Church, the main road (to Chagford,
etc.) takes us uphill for a view of the city ; and we might turn off
on the right into lofty woodlands above the Creedy Valley.

The road to the left, from the bridge, goes to Alphington, of
which we have to speak farther on (p. 48).

EXCURSIONS FROM EXETER

Longer excursions lie along the lines of rail that radiate
star-like from Exeter. Two of these have been already
traced in our approach to the city by the G. W. R. (pp. 2-4)
and the L. & S,-W. R. (pp. 4-14). Our next line brings us
in touch with the latter route at Exmouth, 1 1 miles down
the river, where it becomes open sea after struggling through
shallows and sandbanks. This considerable town and
bathing - place is easily reached by frequent trains from
Queen Street, and active citizens often run down for a dip
in the sea, though for this purpose Dawlish, on the opposite
shore (p. 54), is more recommendable. On both lines, in
summer, cheap excursion tickets are given by certain trains
to many beautiful spots lying within reach of Exeter.

DOWN THE EXE (Left Bank)

The Exmouth branch of the L. & S.-W. R. diverges from
the main line to London, a mile from Queen Street Station.
One road goes out by Heavitree, and down the Clyst, near
the mouth of which it joins another coming through Top-
sham, the first station. The latter road, going out by South
Street and St. Leonard's spire past the Barracks, is the more
direct (4^ miles to Topsham), but so much shut in by the
walls of country seats that pedestrians might rather choose a
longer way, following the railway by lanes from Heavitree,
or the path above the river by Countess Wear (p. 37).

TOPSHAM 39

Topsham (Inns : Salutation ; Globe), one of the oddest of
odd little English towns, straggling for a mile or so along
the river bank, was, in Tudor days, a port of consequence,
lost after the formation of the canal to Exeter, and the
silting up of the river. Still it has to show some substantial
old houses, once the abode of rich merchants, now much
come down in the world ; but snug new cottages on the
outskirts hint that its population of some 3000 begins to
be recruited from the overflow of Exeter. On the river bank
stands the parish Church, restored and almost rebuilt in
1877, containing memorials (by Chantrey) to Admiral Sir
John Duckworth, d. 1817, who forced the passage of the
Dardanelles, and his son. Colonel George Duckworth, who fell
at Albuera in 1811.

Though it may not look a very sanitary place, the position of
Topsham between two rivers is said to make it healthy.

Some good views of the surrounding country may be obtained
by passing down the Strand to the wall at the mouth of the Clyst ;
then, turning up this river by an open stretch of green flats, one
might take a pleasant walk through the Clyst villages, to its
bridge.

A road crossing the railway at the station leads over this river
to Clyst St. George (1 mile), long parish of the autocratic Rev. H.
T. PUlacombe, the campanologist. Thence it is over a mile more
to Clyst St. Mary, where one can turn back to Exeter (3 miles), or
hold on (2 miles) up the river to Honiton Clyst (p. 14).

A little below Clyst St. George the two roads to Exmouth
join, thence holding on near the railway, both with views
over the estuary, on the sloping park and tower of Powder-
ham (p. 53), backed by the Haldon range (p. 48), where the
woods of Mamhead (p. 54) can presently be seen up a hollow.
Woodbury Road is the next station, 2 miles from the village
of Woodbury, through which one may mount to those airy
commons between the Exe and the Otter, behind Budleigh
Salterton (p. 22). By Nutwell Court, the home of Sir F.
Drake's descendants, we come to Lympstone, a fishing village,
whose bluff of red rock looks over the river to Starcross (p.
53). The vicinity of Lympstone is very Devonian in its
features ; and a walk on to Exmouth, over the higher ground

40 EXCURSIONS FROM EXETER

east of the line, affords some fine views. The shore here is
not attractive till we get round the corner at which Exmouth
stands.

EXMOUTH

Hotels : Imperial, Beacon, Rolle, London ; Tem.perance Hotel near station. The
Atlantic Private Hotel is on the shore ; and there are other boarding-houses
and many lodgings here and on the Beacon above.

Though a town of over 8000 inhabitants, and though
once a considerable port, Exmouth is but an ecclesiastical
dependency of the adjoining parish of Littleham. In this
century it has grown into a watering-place of a not un-
common type, one-half lying below, with a lively square, a
pier, a crescent, a sea-wall, a parade, a Jubilee clock tower,
and other appurtenances of such a resort ; while the other
half rises along the top of the cliff called the Beacon, or
spreads inland in streets of quiet respectability. This high
part, as well as the walks on its face, look out on the open
sea and the mouth of the river, commanding fine views of
the opposite shore with its hills, woods, stately mansions,
seaside villages, and the curious flats near Starcross. The
country behind presents exceedingly attractive uplands
of the true Devonshire type, a mingling of luxuriant
woods and meadows with broken heaths and wild banks
of verdure.

The Harbour is at a projecting point some little way
beyond the station. Passing by the gardens before the
station, we turn up to the left for the Beacon, or to the right
for the shore, a sandy stretch leading on to warm red cliffs
beyond. Between these ways, beginning at another public
garden near the Imperial Hotel, there is a pleasant walk
below the cliff. The bathing on the beach requires caution,
owing to a dangerous current. There are machines, also
a bathing pavilion belonging to a club. Bathing is free
beyond the present end of the promenade, where Baths have
been built. About 2 miles to the east a scramble down the
cliffs by the " Smuggler's Steps " gives swimmers a capital
dive when the tide is up.

EXMOUTH 41

The climate, though drier and more airy than in the case
of some other Devonshire watering-places, is rather of the
relaxing type, and would not suit all strangers ; but many
permanent residents find this a good place in which to spend
the evening of their days, and there are therefore social
advantages which would be an attraction to retired officers,
Anglo-Indians, and the like. In summer it is frequented as
a bathing - place, hitherto chiefly, we fancy, by visitors
from the neighbourhood, as it seems to have a little hung
fire in general favour, but new buildings by the shore hint
at wider appreciation of its merits. Exmouth, indeed, is a
very pleasant place of sojourn, provided with Assembly
Kooms, archery ground, lawn-tennis and the like, not for-
getting the golf links below the Beacon, one course for gentle-
men and another for ladies, with stone walls, long grass, and
bunkers as hazards. The sheltered position of these links is
a recommendation in winter.

Many excursions lie open from Exmouth. Eambles over
Woodbury Common (p. 22), dotted by clumps of trees and
ancient barrows or camps, are especially enticing. From
the pier excursion steamers make trips in summer to other
Devonshire resorts — Torquay, Dartmouth, Salcombe, etc.;
here being the headquarters of the Duke and Duchess so well
known on this coast. There is communication with the
opposite shore by ferry boat and steam launch, then by rail to
Dawlish, Teignmouth, and Newton Abbot (p. 54).

An omnibus from the station runs several times a day to
Budleigh Salter ton, 5 miles farther along the coast (p. 21),
till the railway shall be extended between these two resorts.
About 3 miles out, a mile to the left of the road, stands
the interesting ruin of Withycombe Raleigh Church,
commonly known as " St. John in the Wilderness." From
this, about 2 miles north, can be ascended the Black Hill
(p. 22), or some other buttress of Woodbury Common. From
the Budleigh road, one might turn to the right through
Littleham (2 miles), with its pretty Church, and make for
the Beacon, l^ mile out of Budleigh Salterton, for which
could also be taken the pleasanter, but longer, and in parts
ratlier rough, path all the way round the cliff (p. 22).

42 EXCURSIONS FROM EXETER

UP THE EXE

By the valley of the Exe a road of 25 miles takes us up
to the northern border of the county, closely accompanied
most of the way by the Exe Valley Raihvay (G. W. R.) to
Dulverton, on the edge of Exmoor, where it connects with
the line from Taunton to Barnstaple. This branch, fre-
quently crossing and recrossing the river, goes off the main
line at Stoke Canon (p. 4), beyond which the first station is
Brampford Speke, which has a fine old Church with a stately
buttressed and pinnacled tower, and a chantry founded by
the Speke family. The village stands on the right bank,
where the railway keeps more closely to the river, while the
high road bends away for a time from the left bank through
Stoke Canon, but there are by-roads on each side for way-
farers not concerned about pace, and the river valley will
always serve as guide.

Thorverton is the next station, from which the Raddon
Hills run westwards towards Crediton (p. 46), rising at one
point to nearly 800 feet.

Up Exe and Silverton is the station for Silverton (p. 4),
a mile from the left bank, where the high road now rejoins
the railway.

Bickleigh (11 miles from Exeter) lies among beautiful
scenery, to be distinguished from its beautiful namesake
near Plymouth, this station having the title Gadeleigh and
Bickleigh. The village is perched upon a narrow ridge,
between two deep, shady vales, while all around rise gentle
hills clothed in luxuriant verdure. Bickleigh Church, with
its gray tower, is, for many a mile, a notable landmark.
Bickleigh Court, now a farmhouse of some pretension, with a
Norman chapel adjoining, was for years the seat of younger
branches of the Courtenays and Carews, and here was born
Bampfylde Moore Carew, who, after a life of singular romance
as king of the gipsies, and grandmaster of the honourable
fraternity of beggars, returned home to die in 1758, and is
said to be buried at Bickleigh.

At Bickleigh the Exe receives the waters of a small but rapid

THE EXE VALLEY 43

tributary, the little Dart, whose course lies through a romantic
glen well worth exploring, not only by anglers. This will
not be confounded with the more famous Dart of Dartmoor.
The course of the Exe also is finely set among heights. The
Church of Cadeleigh, 2 or 3 miles west, is remarkable for the
Leach monument, an elaborate Jacobean sculpture with life-sized
figures, now in much need of restoration, for which funds are
being sought. About 2 miles south-west (reached on a curving
way from Thorverton to Bickleigh Station) is Cadbury Castle, a
British camp on a lonesome hill, such as could not fail to stimulate
local superstition.

" If Cadbury and Dolbury dolven were.
All England might plough with a golden share."

Dolbury (p. 4) is another camp-crowned hill, 4 miles south-east,
across the valleys of the Exe and the Culm. It is said that in the
bosom of these hills a vast treasure is hidden, and guarded by a
fiery dragon who, at "the mid-hour of nijzht," may be seen on
his flight from one to the other, but no English Siegfried has as yet
achieved the adventure of this double Drachenfels.

Four miles higher up comes the chief town of this
neighbourhood, lying at the confluence of tlie Exe and the
Loman, among picturesquely wooded scenery.

TIVERTON

Hotels: PalTMrston, Angel.

This is a prosperous place with a population of about
12,000, and one of some antiquity, which more than once
has suffered from disastrous fires, without losing all its
monuments. Formerly woollen manufacture was the staple
industry, but it is now chiefly noted for its laces, the manu-
facture of which was established by John Heathcoat, the
inventor of the bobbin net frame. Its markets are also of
importance.

An avenue leads from the station and over the Loman
to Gold Street^ a narrow old thoroughfare continued by the
broad amenities of Fort Street^ in which are the Town Hall,
the Market, and the prosperous School of Science and Art.

44 EXCURSIONS PROM EXETER

Keeping on by Angel Hill we should come to the Exe
Bridge, across which is JVest Exe, where lace making and
other industries flourish. Bampton Street or St. Peter's Street,
on the right of Fore Street, lead to the old Church and
Castle.

The remains of the 14th century Castle, built by Richard de
Redvers, Earl of Devon, have been converted into a private
residence, and little of the ancient building is still intact. Here
is preserved a grim relic— that fatal chest celebrated in Rogers'
" Ginevra " and the once popular song of " The Mistletoe Bough."

St. Peter's Church, a splendid fabric, originally built in the 15th
century, was, with the exception of the Greenway Chapel and the
Tower, rebuilt in 1853-55. Its embattled and pinnacled tower, in
the Perpendicular style, is 116 feet high. The south fa9ade is the
best portion of the building, its buttresses adorned with quaintly-
sculptured figures. The screen in the interior ; the emblematic
sculpture decorating the porch and chapel, the gift of a wealthy
merchant, John Greenway, and remarkable for the richness of its
carving ; the brasses of Johii Greenway, d. 1529, and his wife
Jane, should be noticed. Over the vestry door is a copy of
Rubens' Magi; and above a Norman door on the north side, an
original picture of Peter in Prison, painted by Cosway, a Royal
Academician of last century, and native of Tiverton, who pre-
sented it as an altar-piece, from which situation it has been trans-
posed in favour of a stained window. The memorials of the
Courtenays, Earls of Devon, which once enriched the church, were
destroyed in the Civil War.

John Greenway and Peter Blundell were the two great bene-
factors of Tiverton. For the Grammar School, founded by the
latter about 1604, new quarters have been erected, but the old
buildings still stand on the way up from the station. A block of
almshouses in Gold Street is coeval with the church, and was also
built by John Greenway.

Tiverton seems not to be a place much favoured by
tourists, who might yet be repaid in taking it as a centre
for many pleasant excursions. There is good angling here-
abouts, preserved by the Tiverton Fishing Association.

A pretty M^alk down the Exe (from St. Andrew's Street, turn-
ing left from the main street at St. George's Church) leads to
Collipriest House, overlooking the river, interesting from its
pleasant situation, and the views on the hill above, where the
"Temple of Apollo," at the end of a fine elm avenue, gives a good

THE EXE VALLEY 45

prospect of Tiverton and its surroundings. Up the river is the
tine modern mansion of Knighthayes.

Washfield, about 2| miles up the valley, has an interesting
Church, with a Norman font, Jacobean screen, and some interest-
ing memorials of the Worth family. Sampford Peverell and
Halberton, within an hour's walk eastward, the latter on the way
to Tiverton Junction (p. 2), have both interesting old Churches.
Four miles north-west is the ancient Church of Loxbeare, whose
massive Norman Tower contains three fine bells.

From Tiverton to Bampton is 7 miles by rail, this place
lying a little to the right of the high road and the river.

Bampton (Hotel : TFhite Horse) is situated on the Batham^
a small tributary of the Exe. It is an uninteresting town
in itself, but neighbour to enticing scenery. Hard by are
large limestone quarries. The Church is partly Decorated
and partly Perpendicular. It has a fine screen, and a
couple of ancient yew -trees in the churchyard, "The
Mount," at the east end of Castle Street, occupies the site
of a former fortress. The great annual fete of Bampton is
its autumn fair for the sale of Exmoor ponies, driven down
by hundreds.

Up the Batham one can make for the Morehath or the Venn
Cross station, of the Taimton line (p. 42), that runs along a finely-
broken border of Devon and Somerset. To join this the Exeter
branch turns away from the Exe, the river making a lovely bend
from the Exeter Inn, a little below Bampton, up to Exe Bridge, to
which it may be followed by road. Here we are close to Dulverton
Station (Hotel : Carnarvon Arms), and to the confluence of the
Exe and the Barle. Up the left bank of the Exe holds the road
to Minehead (43 miles from Exeter), which, in 2 miles, at Hele
Bridge, loops for some dozen miles in an old and a new road, the
one keeping straight over the hills to Timberscomhe, the latter,
more in the river valley, being an easier route for wheels.

At Exe Bridge we cross for Dulverton, and turn up the Barle
for the town (Hotels : Bed Lion, Lamb, etc. ) lying two miles from
the station among beautiful scenery, for which we must refer the
reader to our Somerset Guide. If Dulverton belongs to another
county, all Devonians will own that it deserves to be in Devon-
shire.

46 EXCURSIONS FROM EXETER

TO CREDITON (8 miles)

The railway in this direction is the L. & S.-W. R., which
beyond Crediton at Yeoford Junction branches for Plymouth,
and for Barnstaple, the centre of North Devon communica-
tions. This line, as already mentioned, has the peculiarity
of going out alongside the G. W. R. coming into Exeter from
London. In about 2 miles the L. & S.-W. R. turns off up
the valley of the Greedy, by which also goes the road from
Exeter, having crossed the Exe at Cowley Bridge (p. 37).

About half-way to Crediton (4 miles) comes Newton St.
Gyres (station) from which one has a good walk back to
the city over the wooded heights southwards. Beyond this,
tlie railway, leaving the Creedy valley, passes below but not
in sight of Crediton.

Crediton (Hotel : Ship), a quiet borough of some four
thousand inhabitants, was the seat of the Bishopric up till
the middle of the 11th century, and now gives its name to
a Suffragan bishop. As the rhyme runs —

' * When Exon was a vuzzy down,
Kirton was a market town."

The same sort of boast is made by other places that have
come down in the world, e.g. by a village near Taunton.

Crediton is said to have been the birthplace of Winifred,
or St. Boniface, the apostle of Central Germany, martyred
in 756. It was once a great depot of the woollen manu-
facture, but its staple now is boot and shoemaking. The
name, of course, comes from the river Creedy, which runs a
mile to the east ; and about as far south, beside the railway,
is the course of its tributary, the Yeo.

The town stands a little way north of the station, on the
road from which (the Exeter Road) at the top of the hill,
the left turning {Charlotte Street) brings us by the stately
sandstone Church.

The Church, of cathedral-like dimensions and arrangement, is a

CREDITON 47

good Perpendicular building, restored, embodying the Norman
portion of the tower of the ancient sanctuary. During its prime
as a collegiate church the chancel was occupied with 36 stalls for
its 18 canons and 18 vicars. An altar-tomb (south side of chancel)
with effigies, commemorates Sir John Sully, who, after fighting
under tlie banner of the Black Prince, died at the age of 105, and
Dame Sully, his wife. On the other side is a Jacobean monument.
There is good glass in the east and west windows, and in the Lady
Chapel, at one time used as a school.

Beyond the Church, one passes on into the main street,
which mounting uphill goes out westward as the Barnstaple
Road, in half an hour's walk forking left to Okehampton, on
higher ground that affords good view-points.

Above the town, to the north, is Greedy Park, and a little
way out on the Exeter Road is Dowries, the seat of Sir
Redvers Buller. The finest demesne in the vicinity is
Shobrooke Park, across the Greedy, a mile out on the road to
Tiverton, which is open to visitors, and makes a favourite
Sunday afternoon walk. The road goes off by the Church
(reached also by Mill Street from the station) ; and at the
end of the town, a lane turning by the gasworks ends in a
field-path leading straight to the park. From farther up
the town, the road ascending the ridge northwards has at
the top a guide-post showing the way (right) to Shobrooke
by Creedy Bridge, which makes a fine walk, that might be
lengthened by keeping on over the ridge for a mile beside
Creedy Park, to the fertile parish of Sandford, and there
turning right to the Creedy valley ; or a couple of miles
straight on through Sandford, would bring one into it near
the mansion of Dowrish, dating from King John's reign.

On the north and south sides of Shobrooke Park go cross roads
to Tiverton (p. 43) and Thorverton (p. 42), that in some dozen or
half-dozen miles respectively take one over to the Exe Valley.
Between these the pedestrians might ramble on the Raddon Hills,
and turn north-eastward to Cadhury and Bickleigh (p. 42).

On the other side of the town, above the left of the Culvery
Brook, falling into the Yeo near the station, one may ascend
Posbury Hill with its interesting red sandstone quarry, and bear
right to Posbury Camp, from which there is an extensive view.
Descending on the south side to Tedbum St. Mary (5 miles from
Crediton) one here gains a road for Okehampton, on which the

48 EXCURSIONS FROM EXETER

cyclist has a tine 7 miles' run back to Exeter. Or keeping another
5 miles south from Tedburn by Great Fulford Park, near Dunsford
(p. 52), one strikes the Dartmoor road about as far out of Exeter.

These are hints for rambling through a rich orchard country, well
studded with farms as well as mansions, and affording numerous
glimpses of the real Devonshire cottage — that is to say, an oblong
building, with a thatched roof, and walls of clay, loam, and
straw (locally called coh), standing in its own little nook of garden
ground, and garlanded about its diamond-paned lattices with roses,
eglantine, and jessamine.

THE HALDON KANGE AND CHUDLEIGH

This is the ridge of some ten miles running down behind
the right bank of the Exe, almost from Exeter to the valley
of the Teign. The northern part is called Great Haldon,
south of which comes the Little Haldon, both rising some-
times over 800 feet. The whole range makes a grand
stretch of Devonshire scenery, affording lofty walks by high
roads and by-roads, and on the highest ground over open
moors, from which at various points, one can descend to the
railway stations a few miles distant. A direct line from
Exeter to the Teign Valley has been talked about for half a
century, and seems now on the point of completion, so as,
passing along the north side of Haldon, to join the present
branch from Newton Abbot through Chudleigh to Ashton
(p. 52), which will then make a circle round this heathy
upland and its rich outskirts.

Exeter to Newton Abbot, Teignmouth, and Chud-
leigh.— The high road over the Haldons is shorter than the
less arduous way by the shore. They go out together over
the bridge, and in a mile come to Alphington, the Swindon
junction of roads in this direction. Here, beneath the
noble sandstone tower of the Church, they separate, the low
road keeping down to Exminster (p. 53) as far as which an
omnibus runs from the top of High Street, while the other
goes to the right, guide-posts making all clear. At the
farther end of the village diverges the old road to Chudleigh,
to which we shall presently return for the benefit of

THE HALDON RANGE 49

pedestrians. The new high road goes on, 1 mile, to
Kennford, where is our last chance of refreshment, there
being no inn along the top of the ridge. Beyond the valley
of the Kenn stream, running down to Powderham (p. 53),
we begin to ascend in earnest, and 5 miles from Exeter goes
off the road (5 miles more) to Chudleigh (p. 50). The
Newton Abbot road takes the left, with beautiful views over
the Exe Estuary. Between these two roads is the Haldon
Racecourse, a more finely situated one than even that of
Lansdowne above Bath. Races are occasionally held here,
but their glory has departed. The Newton Abbot road,
running not quite so high as the other, takes the straighter
line of an old Roman way. Having given off by-ways to
Mamhead (p. 54), Star cross (p. 53), and Dawlish (p. 54),
about 7^ miles from Exeter, it forks again, the left branch
(6 miles) winding down to Teignmouth (p. 58), while the
other descends by Ideford and Kingsteignton to Newton Abbot
(p. 62), for which indeed the road through Chudleigh is
about the same distance (16 miles), and seems to be preferred
by cyclists.

This high road in every sense offers many divagations to
the wayfarer, who will often be tempted to stray on either
side, and wander down the "goyles," a local name for its
fern - choked watercourses. We have an abiding recollec-
tion of going astray on Haldon nearly forty winters ago ;
but since then the cross roads have grown a good crop of
guide-posts. There is room only to outline the old road
which, on foot, saves a mile on the way to Chudleigh, and
makes one of the finest walks from Exeter.

To Chudleigh by the old road (9 miles). — At the farther end of
Alpliington this turns up right, marked Shillingford. Not many
people may be found on Haldon by-roads, but there are plenty of
direction posts, also "tongues in trees" in the shape of telegraph
posts, which may be followed all the way, even where it dwindles
to a grass-grown track. Beyond Shillingford (2 miles on) one
sees on the right the wooded slope of Haldon House, and on the
ridge above the Belvidere view tower, built by Sir Robert Palk
more than a century ago at nearly the highest point.

[The Belvidere Tower. — The turn right beyond Shillingford
(marked Dunchideock) takes us across a road leading up to the

4

50 EXCURSIONS FROM EXETER

Tower from Ide, about a mile west of Alphington. As is so often
to be regretted, damage done here has put an end to its being open
to all and sundry ; but we are informed that visitors not likely to
abuse this privilege will be trusted with the key on application at
Haldon House.]

The panorama from the top of the Tower may also be had from
other elevated points. It extends eastwards to the confines of the
county and over a wide expanse of the English Channel. Nearer
at hand are, the town of Exmouth, the estuary of the river Exe,
and the grounds of Powderham Castle ; north-eastward, Exeter
and the Black Down Hills, crowned by the Wellington Monu-
ment ; northward, the wilds of Exmoor ; and westward, the Teign
Valley and Dartmoor. It is only due southward that the view
is obstructed, and there the continuation of the Haldon range
itself hides the coast and the various towns upon it. From the
Tower it is about 2^ miles south-west to Ashton Station, present
terminus of the branch line from Newton Abbot.

The Tower would take one a mile out of the direct way, which,
always following the telegraph wires, mounts beside woods on to
the moorland, a little to the left of the highest point, BuUer's Hill
(827 feet). To the left now we look down on the line of the high
road passing by the racecourse above the Exe Estuary. Before us
spreads the Teign Valley, with the heights of Dartmoor behind,
towards which we now descend with the woods of Whitetvay on
our right. In about 4 miles is reached Chudleigh, our lane becom-
ing a road again. Had one turned to the right over Buller's Hill,
then from the Tower left, down to Ashton, 2^ miles would bring
us through this village to its station (p. 52).

Chudleigh (Clifford Arms Hotel), reached by whatever
way, is a favourite excursion point for the sake of its rock
scenery. The town itself is mainly modern, having been
devastated by a fire a century ago. The station lies a mile
off on the banks of the Teign. From it, on reaching the
town, one turns down for the Rocks, right, at a smithy. By
the road from Exeter one comes to this point through the
town.

The Chudleigh Rocks rise over the wooded glen of a stream
running to the Teign. The road down into this hollow passes the
site of what was once an Episcopal Palace, hardly traceable now.
Then come two dairy farms, offering tea and other refreshment
for man and beast. Between these, on the right of the road, a
wicket opens the path up to the height crowned by limestone
rocks embowered in greenery. There is no charge for admission,
but children lie in wait for visitors, whose services as ciceroni maj
be engaged to point out the " Hermit's Chair," the " Black Rock,'

I

CHUDLEIQH 61

and other lions of the scene, or to provide the key and candles for
exploration of the Pixies' Cave in the glen, where one must be
sure to stick a pin in a piece of soft stalactite, by way of leaving
a card on the Pixies, who will be much offended by neglect of this
ceremony. The cave above has been closed. From tlie top of
the Rocks there is a green prospect, and the glen, with its cascade,
makes a cool retreat, so that this spot is a great resort of picnic
parties.

Returning to the main road we can hold on through the
town, passing the Church, which has been restored out of its
i ancient dignity, but contains some interesting monuments
land a good screen. At a Jubilee Obelisk the chief street
forks right and left as the new and the old Exeter roads ;
and here to the right turns off the road to Ugbrooke Park,
which is open as a way to Teignmouth (p. 58) or to Newton
Abhot (p. 62). Near the entrance on this side, at the highest
point (400 feet), is an ancient camp. Lord Clifford's
mansion here is adjoined by a private Roman Catholic
Church, with fine internal decorations ; and another feature
of Ugbrooke is its ornamental water.

In walking back to Exeter by the old road (p. 49) one follows
the telegraph wires. Only at one point is there a chance of going
wrong, where on the high moorland a guide-post points right
'to Exeter," but this takes one down to the new high road,
whereas the old one holds on across the moor, turning presently
down by a wood.

If we return by train we have, or shall soon have, a
choice of routes, either by the new Teign Valley rail through
Ashton, or by the main G. W. R. line joined at Newton
Abbot (p. 62). The former line may now be traced back-
ward as it curves round the northern slopes of Haldon. Its
extension from Ashton to Exeter, exactly halving the present
iistance by rail (26 miles), is not complete as we write ;
but the works are in such an advanced stage that we
venture to treat this enterprise as a fait accompli.

The first station up the river is Trusham below Hennock
' icross the heights over which one might pass to the
\ valley of the Bovey. Above, on the west bank of the
' leign stands Ganonteign, a good specimen of an Elizabethan

52 EXCURSIONS FROM EXETER

manor-house come down in the world. Ashton, a mile
higher, was long the terminus of the line, which may some
day throw off a branch up the Teign to Chagford. About
the station is Lower Ashton^ but the village with its interest-
ing Church stands a mile above, towards the ridge of Haldon.
All round is finely-marked scenery.

From Ashton a couple of hours' walk up the Teign Valley would
take one to the gorge of the river at Fingle Bridge, and beyond in
5 miles to Chagford. On the way, above the right bank, are the
Churches of Christow, with two screens and Pellew memorials, and
Bridford with a good screen. Three miles above, on the left bank,
comes the tall church tower of Dunsford {Royal Oak), a charming
village among fine woodlands. Near the river one may hold on to
Clifford Bridge ; thence, one could scramble up the anglers' path
into the gorge, or take the road above the left bank for a good
couple of miles, then descend to Fingle Bridge beyond which
a good path keeps up the bank most of the way to Chagford
(see Dartmoor Section).

Between Christow and Dunsford the line leaves the
Teign, presently turning eastward towards Exeter. The
first new station, we understand, will be Teign House. Its
Longdown Station is below the camp known as Cotley
Castle (700 feet) ; next comes Ide, from which there is a
good road up to the Belvidere Tower (p. 49) ; then crossing
the high road near Alphington, it joins the G. W. E. short of
its St. Thomas's Station. We had hoped for an opportunity
of surveying this new line, but find ourselves obliged to be
content with such slight indications of its route, enough to
show that Exeter folks are here promised a welcome addition
to their excursions. Whether it will be a delight to its
shareholders is a separate consideration.

To Dartmoor. — A little to the north of this line goes
the arduous road to Moreton Hampstead ( 1 2 miles), passing
on the way near Dunsford, and beyond Moreton stretching
over the moor to Tavistock (34 miles). At Pocomhe Bridge, a
mile out of Exeter, it gives off to the right another rough
road to Okehampton (22 miles). But for the scenes of
Dartmoor we must refer to another section of our Guide.

THE EXE ESTUARY 53

DOWN THE EXE (Right Bank)

This is our main route onwards, down the right bank of
the Exe, to the Teign Valley, the boundary of this section
of our Guide. The high road goes out through Alphington
(p. 48), here and there bending inland, but one can usually
keep near the shore, much monopolised as it is by the
railway. To Newton Ahhot is about 21 miles ; to Torquay
direct by the hilly coast road beyond Teignmouth, 23 miles.
On foot, one's straightest way out of Exeter is along the
bank of the Ship Canal (p. 37), as far as that will take us.
One can also start down the other bank of the river, ferry-
ing across at Topsham for Exminster, or at Exmouth for
Starcross or the Warren.

Leaving St. David's Station, the G. W. R. at once crosses
the Exe, and bears round through the St. Thomas suburb
(p. 27) with a good view of the city's towers and spires on
the opposite bank. From Exminster, a small village, 5
miles on our way, Topsham may be seen on the far side of
the river, which here begins to widen out into its estuary ;
and the canal's mouth is marked by the lonely inn at Turf
(p. 37).

Two miles beyond Exminster, we pass on the right hand
Powderham Castle, seat of the Earl of Devon. The beauti-
fully wooded park slopes upwards from the level strath of
the Exe, coming down to the railway, beside which is passed
the Church. On the height above, a tower rises from the
woods. The Castle lies on lower ground farther on. It
retains in part its mediaeval character, but has been to some
extent modernised. Being at present let, it is, we are in-
formed, no longer open to strangers.

Starcross (Hotel : Courtenay Arms) is the station for
Powderham, its entrance gate being at the north end of the
Esplanade, that shows a peculiar feature in specimens of the
almost lost topiary art. This is something of a bathing
place, quiet and pleasant, but too much within the estuary

54 EXCURSIONS FROM EXETER

to rank as real seaside. In its little harbour are usually to
be seen two artificial swans, great and small, which have
been seamarks here for a generation, though sometimes they
are laid up at Exmouth. These curious craft, of the nature
of what is called a " Folly " in land buildings, are said to
have been made for hunting wild fowl ; the larger one
supplies a good bathing stage. At the farther end of the
place is a large Institution for feeble-minded children of the
western counties.

Pretty walks up the valley behind Starcross take one in an
hour to the foot of the Haldon range (p. 48), almost any road over
which is beautiful. Three or four miles back rises the finely
wooded park of Mamhead, open to all strangers except cyclists.
One may pass through by the drive, between the mansion and the
church, and take the course of Dawlish Water to Dawlish (p. 56).

A good mile north-west of Starcross, by the road along the side
of Powderham Park (the high road from Exeter), is the village of
Kenton, notable for its sandstone Church, with a noble pinnacled
tower, and one of the finest screens in the county. Near it, on an
adjacent patch of green, stands an old cross restored.

From Starcross station a steam launch will ferry one over
to Exmouth, 1-| m. distant. There is also a boat ferry from
the point of the Warren, that curious stretch of waste ex-
tending a long mile over the estuary, which at low tide it
seems almost to choke up. The Warren is turned to account
for golf-links and rifle butts, and a pleasant walk may be
had across it to Mount Pleasant (Inn), thence along the sea-
wall or by the cliff to Dawlish, for which the high road bends
a little inland (12 miles from Exeter).

DAWLISH

Hotels : Royal, London, Albert, Lake's Temperance (all opposite the station,

except the London, which stands a little way back in the town).
Boarding-House ; lona House.

This favourite sea -side resort, one of the neatest and
prettiest in Devon, occupies a cove shut in by honeycombed
rocks of deep red sandstone. Through the valley which

I

DAWLISH 55

here opens out upon the sea runs a tamed rivulet, spanned
by numerous little bridges, and banked on each side by a
broad border of smooth greensward. Along this " Lawn "
stretch inland houses and shops, many of them in their own
snug little plots of garden-ground ; on the hill-slopes beyond
are perched numerous villas, and the cliff front is crowned
with terraces looking out to sea. By the " Strand," and up
the valley of Dawlish Water, myrtles, hydrangeas, and other
delicate plants bloom freely in a climate which is decidedly
mild, not to say relaxing, in summer and autumn, but in
the early part of the year may suffer from east winds. To
the south of the town is Lea Mount, a public garden taste-
fully laid out, and well provided with walks and seats from
which to enjoy the views and the contrast of warm red and
green displayed by the cliffs.

The only fault to be found with the amenities of Dawlish
is the way in which the railway cuts it off from the shore.
Passing under the line at the station we find a stretch of
sand, on which stands a large Ladies' Bathing Pavilion. At
the farther end pleasure boats have their landing. The
men's snug bathing place is round the corner under Lea
Mount, to which one used to pass through a tunnel, till a
fall of rock here caused a fatal accident, now reached by
a little esplanade from which walks have been cut up the
cliff. Beyond this there are machines in summer, and
hollows in the rock to serve as natural dressing -places.
When the tide serves, a good plunge can be had from
the small breakwater ; and athletic youth scramble to dive
off an isolated rock known variously as the "Old Maid"
and the " Toad," which of late years has suffered from the
waves. Beyond stand up other fantastically-worn masses of
sandstone, the most prominent of them known as the
" Bishop " ; and at the point are the " Parson and Clerk."

The Parish Church stands about half a mile up the
valley, to the left, reached also by one very pleasant walk
on the bank above. It is a fine rebuilt structure, containing
two monuments by Flaxman. On the other side of the
valley, chiefly, clusters the little town, through which a road
goes up Dawlish Water towards Haldon.

56 EXCURSIONS FROM EXETER

Behind the Church is the richly - wooded park of
Luscombe Castle. These grounds, once open on certain
days, are now closed, and the fine private chapel designed
by Sir Gilbert Scott seems to have gone out of use.

On the Starcross side, the sea-wall gives a walk of a mile
to Langstone Point, beyond which lies the Warren. But
pleasanter is the lane along the edge of the cliff in this
direction, to be gained at more than one point by crossing
the railway. A good round might thus be made by Star-
cross, Kenton, and Mamhead.

There is lovely country about Dawlish, where the visitor
may ramble through red lanes, deeply shaded by green, that
soon lead him into up-and-down roads, well provided with
guide-posts. Cyclists will not find this an ideal ground for
their exertions, but active pedestrians can be much better
suited. For such, we suggest a half day's round on the
heights behind, bringing in the varied aspects of the district.

To Haldon, Mamhead, etc, — Leave Dawlish by the road on the
right side of the brook, skirting Luscombe Park to its left. Past
the lodge gate, take the first turn left, which leads up through
shady woods. When the rich timber of the combe changes to firs,
this road comes to a level on a heathery moor, near the top of
Little Haldon (over 700 feet) where several tumuli can hardly be
traced among the natural roughness of the ground. On the sky
line a little to the left, a sign-post will be seen marking the high
road from Exeter to Teignmouth along the top of the ridge.
Short of this, our road reaches another sign-post showing ways to
Chudleigh and to Mamhead. Taking the latter road to the right,
we skirt a fir wood on the edge, having wide views over the Exe
estuary, Dawlish below, Exmouth across the water, and leagues of
cliffs stretching beyond to Dorsetshire. A view-tower is passed in
the woods, but it has been overtopped by the growth of the trees.
Below this, from the descending road, a steep lane to the right —
an ancient portway — would take us down into the road back to
Dawlish, which loops so as to give a choice of coming home by the
left bank of the stream.

Else, turning left, at the sign-post for Mamhead, we follow the
road into a deep hollow, where the bending course of Dawlish
Water is again crossed. Holding up the opposite slope to the
woods of Mamhead (p. 54), we turn right for a little way, and can
enter the gate of the park in spite of stern notices which are not
so pxclusive as they seem except in the case of cycles. The avenue
leads us through this richly timbered demesne between the

DAWLISH 57

mansion and the church, beyond which, bearing left, one could
mount to the high road over Great Haldon, reached a long mile to
the south of the lotty racecourse (p. 49). Below this road (about
700 feet) rises Dawlish Water, a mile or so down which comes
Ashcombe, which has a church worth visiting, whence the stranger
can easily find his way back by the knowledge of the country he
has already gained, not to speak of frequent guide-posts.

We set out rather with the intention of circling round to Star-
cross, which is about 4 miles from Mamhead, For this road take
the drive turning right, after it has passed between the church
and the house in Mamhead Park ; and at the lodge the lane down-
hill to the left to a sign-post. The next sign-post shows the shortest
way back to Dawlish. For Starcross we hold straight on through
a dark wood. It would be only a mile or so out of the way to
turn up to Kenton (p. 54) on the left, for which at the cross ways
last mentioned, an unnamed lane mounts into a wood and is
continued by a field-path in the same direction, cutting off a corner
into the road for Kenton. Thence along the side of Powderham
Park 1^ mile would bring us down to the sea, near Starcross
Station. So far, the round has been under a dozen miles, and if
we walk on along the coast, some 15 miles in all bring us back
to Dawlish.

To Teignmouth. — Another'pleasant round of half a dozen miles or
so in the other direction is turning left on the top of Little Haldon,
and dropping thence to Teignmouth. A shorter way to Teign-
mouth is taken by a lane to the left of the church, passing over
Holcombe Down. The shortest, if not the most agreeable, is by
the high road keeping a little back from the shore (3 miles). At
this end the cliffs are obstructed by private grounds ; but on foot
one can go out by the direct Teignmouth road, then after a mile
or so turn down at Lower Holcombe by "Smugglers' Lane," pass-
ing under the railway to regain the coast near the Parson and
Clerk rocks, two prominent stacks of red sandstone which still
hold their own, more and less, against the bulleting of the waves.
From this point it is about a mile and a half to Teignmouth by
the sea-wall, along which now runs the railway, after being boxed
up in a succession of tantalising tunnels.

The G. W. E. between Dawlish and Teignmouth has
hitherto been a single line, according to malicious critics,
kept so on purpose to prevent the L. & S.-W. E. from getting
running powers over it. To silence such slanders this
section of rail is now being doubled. Originally the line
here was worked by atmospheric pressure, tall campanile-
like towers being erected as pumping stations. After being

68 EXCURSIONS FROM EXETER

taken over by tlie G. W. R. it became the last broad gauge
rail in England, altered in 1892 to the standard gauge.

TEIGNMOUTH

Hotels : Royal, London, Queen's, etc.
Boardlng-Houses : West Lawn, Bampark, Portland Home, etc.

What Torquay is to Teignmouth, Teignniouth itself is to'
Dawlish, holding a middle place in importance, as in
position. Yet Teignmouth can boast itself over Torquay, as
an ancient town and harbour, which has more than once
enjoyed the distinction of being burned by French cruisers.
It is now a pleasant town of about eight thousand in-
habitants, with a stir of fishing, yachting, and ship-building,
much favoured by retired veterans, Anglo-Indians and the^
like, besides its floating population of summer visitors. |

The town stands, mostly upon flat ground, at the corner ^
of the Teign estuary, and is thus more open to breezes than
Torquay or Dawlish, while sheltered to tlie north by the
heights of Haldon. The more genteel part faces the sea,
showing a dignified front of terrace and crescent behind
the Den, a wide strip of lawn and walks which suggests the
Lees of Folkestone brought down to a lower level. Before
it are the Pier and sands, where bathing can be had safely
from machines, except when an east wind makes the breakers
too boisterous ; one gets a plunge also from the end of the
Pier. The Den promenade is continued to the Parson and
Clerk rocks by a sea-wall running beside the railway, before
which early bathers make bold to disport themselves ; and
the heights above this end are laid out with walks that give
fine views of the red cliffs lighting up both sides of the bay
into which the Exe opens here.

At the other end of the Den is a small lighthouse, and
beyond it the harbour at the river's mouth, where Teign-
mouth has what may be called a side- frontage to the estuary.
Opposite, on the southern bank, rises the steep and richly
verdured promontory known as the Ness, beneath which lies

TEIGNMODTH 59

the village of Shaldon, connected with Teignmouth by a
wooden bridge 1672 feet long, swinging open in the channel
for the passage of email vessels. This, said to be the longest
wooden bridge in England, cannot be called a picturesque
feature in itself ; but the view from it, when the tide is up,
will be much admired, the broad stream appearing like a
lake in the wooded valley backed by hills rising to the tors
of Dartmoor. A new Church is being built at Shaldon,
where the small old one has been restored in its original
style, and contains a very ancient Font and other relics.

There is not much to be said of the town, except that it
has the usual sea-front amenities, and behind, the usual maze
of winding streets, with buildings old and new, rising to
smart villas on the heights. It includes two parishes. The
rebuilt church of East Teignmouth (St. Michael's) is plain,
but for some fine ornaments and a pinnacled Jubilee Tower.
That of West Teignmouth (St. James's) is more than plain,
though it has been touched up lately ; it contains a good
Reredos which seems out of keeping with its Simeonite
antecedents. A Roman Catholic Church stands on the
Dawlish Road ; and this Church has two Convents here.
There are Baths behind the Pier. The Assembly Rooms
at the London Hotel, and other halls are used for entertain-
ments. In summer there is dancing on the pier and music
on the Den ; and a good deal of private gaiety goes on all
the year. The tennis tournament here has a more than
local fame. Balls are usually held in the club, one of the
best in the west of England, and praiseworthily hospitable to
visitors. Out of the bathing season, the liveliest time is
during the Yeomanry training in May.

A name connected with Teignmouth is Winthrop
Mackworth Praed's, whose father had a house at Bitton, and
is buried in West Teignmouth churchyard. Keats spent a
winter here, and his Emiymion is dated from Teignmouth.
Both these poets have celebrated the charms of the neigh-
bourhood ; and Fanny Burney's Journal gives a lively
account of "Tingmouth" in 1773.

Not to speak of boating excursions, the neighbourhood
abounds in delightful rambles, mostly through luxuriant

60 EXCURSIONS PROM EXETER

Devonshire lanes, by which one mounts to the open slopes of
Haldon behind.

Towards Dawlish, we have already spoken of the walk by the
sea-wall and up the Smugglers' Steps (p. 57). To the left of the
high road, above the "Parson and Clerk" rocks is the pretty village
of Holcombe, whose Church gives excuse for a Sunday stroll to
wandering sheep both from Dawlish and Teignmouth. From the
latter it can be reached by a lane and paths behind the cliffs.

The Little Haldon (p. 48) rises behind the town, and 2 miles
of the high road ascending it bring one to a height of about 800
feet, for a grand prospect. About half a mile north here, buried
among the bog and copses, is the ruined chapel of Lidwell, at
which, says tradition, lived a monk who had the way of robbing
and murdering tourists of the period, and throwing their bodies
into a holy well, that has disappeared as if in resentment for
such desecration. This spot is hard to find ; one may take a lane
on the right of the road to a farm adjoining, and there seek
directions. Keeping the high road for another mile, we should
come at the second crossway to Castle Dyke, an earthwork of
dubious origin, by which, to the right, the way past Luscomhe
(p. 56) leads down to Dawlish.

At the joining of roads, 2 miles out of Teignmouth on this high
way, the byway to the left leads down to Bishopsteignton, by
some remnants of the Bishop's Palace that once stood here.

Bishopsteignton is 2 miles west of Teignmouth above the estuary
of the Teign. An omnibus runs to it from Teignmouth Station.
The Church has a fine Norman doorway and other fragments of
antiquity, among them some tombstones overgrown by roses, said
to cover the remains of victims of the plague. Here is "Huntley"
a popular health retreat, where hydropathy and other treatment
are practised among very pleasant surroundings, notably the woods
of Lindridge Park, a mile or so behind, on the Haldon slopes.

On the other side of the river. Combe Cellars (3 miles) is a place
for picnics and for the refreshment of cockles and cream at its
inn, celebrated in Mr. Baring Gould's novel Kitty Alone. Above
stands the village of Combe in Teignhead, whose Church has some
elaborately carved bench ends. Above this is the tiny parish of
Haccombe, containing little more than the mansion and the early
14th century Chapel, which displays, crowded in small space, a
remarkable collection of ancient monuments of the Courtenays and
Carews. On the door are the remains of four horse-shoes said to
recall a feat of swimming out to sea on horseback, on which a manor
was wagered and won. Haccombe Down rises over 500 feet.
Across it southwards there is a fine walk of some half-dozen miles
to Torquay. Westward one can turn down to Newton Abbot (p.
62), or eastward find another way back to Teignmouth through
Stoke in Teignhead, which also has an interesting old church.

TEIGNMOUTH 61

On the direct Torquay Road, round the Ness, are the Labrador
Tea Gardens, looking out upon the open sea, much visited for their
picturesque situation, and for strawberries eaten with views as
well as cream.

Teignmouth to Torquay by the coast road (8 miles) is a good
walk, especially if you take your time over it and go on to
Bahhicomhe Bay and Anstey's Cove. Cross the bridge, or ferry
across the stream (saving a mile) to the village of Shaldon, whence
it is a sharp climb till the road attains a level considerably above
the cliffs. As you proceed, a beautiful peep reveals itself down a
valley on the right, opening the villages of Stoke- and Combe-in-
Teignhead. In the distance are the bare slopes of Dartmoor.
Then comes a rather dull stretch of road, with nothing of special
interest, except to those who scramble up and down by the verge
of the cliffs, broken by coves and rough hollows that make hard
walking, till you reach 8t. Mary Churchy a suburb of Torquay, but a
parish and town of itself. Here the way to Torquay goes down to
the right. On the left are the shore beauties of JVatcombe and Petit
Tor. Along the road above the cliff comes a terrace overlooking
Babbicombe Bay, where the red sandstone of the cliffs has changed
to variegated limestone. Here we are within the confines of Tor-
quay, reached by the roundabout railway route through Newton
Abbot, and fully described in its own section of our Guide.

Teignmouth is well situated for railway excursions to
several points, through the junction at Newton Ahhot^ to
which the G. W. K line now turus up the Teign, for some
miles skirting the estuary that, even at low tide, when it is
a broad waste of mud given up to cockle-hunters, makes a
pretty sight between its green banks. It is crossed by the
railway a little short of Newton Abbot, which stands back
upon a tributary stream.

The road (6 miles) takes a line above the rail, about a
mile out of Newton Abbot passing the village of Kings-
teignton, where clay works are the most prominent
feature ; but it has a large 1 4th century church, containing
a singular epitaph, as to which the less said the better.

A rather longer way is on the other side of the estuary,
by Shaldon, Gomhe in Teignhead and under Haccombe Down,
as shown above.

When the tide serves, the trip up to Newton Abbot by
boat or steam launch is a pleasant one.

62 laccuRSioNS from exeter

NEWTON ABBOT

Hotels : Globe, Cormnercial, in the town ; Queen's, Churchill's Temperance,
small houses near the station.

There are scores of Newtons and Newtowns in England,
among which this one, including Newton Abbot and Newton
Bushel^ owes its importance to its position as a railway-
junction for Torquay on one side, and Moreton Hampstead
and the Teign Valley on the other, the main line running
on to Plymouth. Besides its large railway workshops, it
has a great tannery at the other end, and men employed at
the adjacent clay works of Kingsteignton help to bring up
its population to about 17,000. It has spread itself over
the adjoining heights, where handsome villas contrast with
some squalid courts and alleys in the lower part.

The town itself is not without historic memorials. Close to the
station, on the left of the Torquay road, stands Ford House, a
former seat of the Earl of Devon, having iu its grounds a broad
sheet of water. Charles I. and his court were twice entertained at
Ford, and here William of Orange made his headquarters for two
days in November 1688. The base of the Market Cross in
Wolborough Street marks the spot where his first declaration as
King of England was read.

The station is on the east side of the town, opposite its
Gourtenay Park. Thence the main thoroughfare winds on
for more than half a mile to the central spot, where the
cross adjoins an ivied tower, all that is left of the church of
St. Leonard's. Into this line the road from Teignmouth has
debouched on the right some way back. Turning right at
the tower and presently passing near the Post Office (in
Market Street on the right) a street goes uphill, at St. Mary's
Church dividing as the roads to Bovey Tracey (right) and to
Ashburton. The main street in the valley becomes the
Totnes Road, on which is passed a row of modern alms-
houses, and on a height to the left the Parish Church of
Wolborough, which takes the place of that demolished one

NEWTON ABBOT 63

by the cross. It has a good south door, some carved oak on
screen and pews, a richly-ornamented Norman font, much
excellent stained glass, and a marble tomb with canopied
effigies to Sir Richard Regnele of Ford (died 1633), and the
Lady Lucy his wife. High week Church, which stands on
a hill to the right of the Bovey Road nearly a mile from
the town, also contains some fine windows : this is the
original parish of Newton Bushel.

Though Newton Abbot, lying between the sea and Dart-
moor, is rather a place of coming and going for tourists than
a resort, it well deserves more familiarity, surrounded as it
is by fine hill and woodland scenery. The river, hardly
one of its chief attractions, runs outside of the town, reached
by a turning on the right soon after one leaves the station,
where a tunnel like that of Posilippo on a small scale leads
to the Quay. The Teign here straggles on flat ground, in
part swamped by the flow of the tide, and near it is a canal,
once used for bringing down granite from the quarries of Hay
Tor, now as conveyance for the china clay that makes a
staple of the neighbourhood. "Walks by these channels have
at least prospects of the heights ; and a path round the
back of Knowles Hill, to the left of the Teignmouth road,
looks out over what seems a great delta, where a pleasant row
may be taken with the help of the tide. From other
heights on which Newton Abbot goes on extending itself,
there are good views down the estuary ; and at each end of
the town a stretch of beautiful woods lies open.

The Milber Woods are above the Torquay road, which crosses
the railway a little beyond the station. Passing in front of Ford
House, we turn up left by the road marked Haccmnhe, from which
presently goes off right the old Torquay road (marked St. Mary
Church), which is the shortest way to the coast (6 miles). The
first stretch of this road in a «hollow is bordered by the thick
Milber Woods, through which run paths, or on the right side, one
may pass up the outer edge to the heath above, where an old camp
is traced. Turnings left lead to Haccombe (p. 60), the road from
which may be taken back down the other side of the woods. To
the right, we gain Coffinswell, and thence could come down to the
Torquay high road near the Aller art pottery works. Any way
about these woods makes a very pretty hour or two's walk.

64 9^<^^^8IONS PROM EXETER

The Bradley Woods at the other end of the town, are still more
beautiful, rising to the right of the Totnes road. Just beyond the
almshouses one takes a path on that side and follows a little
stream, past Bradley Manor, into this demesne, where one can
wander on for more than a mile.

Turnings left here lead by East or West Ogwell, on to Denbury
Down (500 feet), where there is an elliptical camp, about 3 miles
out of Newton Abbot. Holding on southwards for a mile or two,
one comes to Tor Bryan and to Ippleden, both with fine churches,
and the latter with marble quarries to show. From any of those
points, ways eastward take us to the Totnes Road, a little off
which, a mile out of the town, is Abbotskerswell, which has
another fine church, and between it and the railway an
Augustinian Priory, whose chapel has some rich decorations.

To the right of the Bradley Woods runs the road over Highweek
Hill to Ashburton (7 miles). About 4 miles out on the right of
this road, is the village of Bickington, with a good church, and a
very picturesque mill on the Lemon, the little stream running
down hence to Newton Abbot. Short of this, one turns up by
Telegraph Hill (640 feet) to the village of Ilsington, on the edge
of Dartmoor, beyond which rises Hay Tor, one of its most prominent
points, that thus makes a 9 mile walk from Newton Abbot, a rather
shorter way being from Stover Park on the Bovey Tracey road ;
and the pedestrian might trace upwards the abandoned tram line
to the quarries of Hay Tor. At Ilsington is now being built the
Hay Tor Hotel and health resort (800 feet above the sea), about 3
miles from Bovey Tracey station.

These are only slight hints for the exploration of a
neighbourhood that has many other points deserving to be
dwelt on. Torquay (7 miles) is treated in the next section of
our Devon Guide. Newton Abbot is perhaps best known
to strangers as a base for visits to Dartmoor, easily visited
hence by several lines of coach. Besides those that come
from Torquay, Newton Abbot has a line of its own, running
in connection with morning and evening trains, each day by
a different route, for which handbills may be consulted, to
Hay Tor, Bovey Tracey, Buckland Beacon, Holne Chase, Becky
Falls, and other lions of the district. Similar enterprises
are worked from Bovey Tracey and Lustleigh stations on the
branch along the edge of Dartmoor.

1

TORQUAY

Hotels: Torbay, opposite the harbour, with Cumper's Private Hotel as its
dependence ; Imperial, on a height overlooking the Bay ; Victoria and
Albert, and Belgrave, in the Torre Valley ; Western, at the station ; Osborne,
2 miles from the station, near the Meadfoot Sands ; Royal; QiLeen's, behind
the harbour, Union, Central, Gibbon's Commercial, Jordan's Temperance,
Pavilion Temperance, in the business streets ; Clarence, at Torre station, etc.

Boarding-Houses : Granville Mansions, Nepaul, Petworth, Kistor House,
Gresham's, Roslin Hall, The Boltons, Savemake Mansions, Amalfi, Sherwood
House, Elfordleigh, Livernead House, Templestowe, Sealawn, Dudley House,
Richmond Lodge, Hill Crest, etc. Torghatten, at Babbicome. The first
mentioned stands high on the hill above the harbour ; most of the others
are in the valley behind Torquay Station, the chief quarters for such
pensions. They are here arranged in something like order of seniority
rather than of importance ; and since new establishments of the kind seem
to be springing up, this long list cannot pretend to be complete.

Cabs. Fares Is. per half mile ; Is. 6d. per mile, a rate that is not high when
we consider the hills and winding roads that have to be dealt with.

Omnibuses ivom. the hotels would take passengers to central parts of the town.
From Torre Station start omnibuses, not very frequent, to Paignton and
to St. Mary Church.

Torquay has been judged one of the most picturesque
towns in England ; but its picturesqueness is no matter of
hoary age, nor of some few fragments of the past drowned
in a tide of houses, streets, and villas, still rising over the
hills that cannot confine it to the shore. Its prosperity
rose with the French war, when the families of naval officers,
often stationed in Torbay, began to settle here. The
amenities and advantages of the place soon became widely
known, and it grew in the irregular way forced upon it by
the conformation of the ground, till now, for its population
of about 34,000, it is said to cover more space than any
town in the country, besides having more money to spend.
One can hardly say, indeed, where Torquay begins or ends,
so many suburbs and outlying villages has it taken in ; but
before long it seems likely to invade the whole of the bold
promontory forming the north end of Torbay, from which it

6

66 ♦ TORQUAY

appears a maze of woods, quarries, parks, and gardens,
mixed with houses and streets, almost wherever they can be
built. These buildings gather thickest on and under the
three hills around the harbour, which may be considered as
the nucleus of Torquay. In the valley through which the
railway runs, the Torre Abbey suburb occupies less irregular
ground ; but most parts of the town are not to be attained
without climbing. Some are reached, as a short cut, by
public stairways, which prove trying to feeble limbs. A lift
would be of little use here, as there is not one eminence to
surmount, but many, each with its more or less loftily planted
dwellings. Vehicles come naturally into great demand ;
and horses to the manner born make light of Torquay's
steeps and turns. But London horses, brought here, are
found inclined to strike against the jobs they may be put
to by masters lolling at ease to enjoy the fine prospects
opened up on these winding ascents. The small flies known
as " midges," seem to be going out of use.

Torquay's character as a haven for invalids has had the
effect of keeping away summer visitors, though, in fact, it is
by no means so hot, especially on the heights, as is supposed.
Our south coast, while warmer in winter, is often correspond-
ingly cooler in summer ; and at this season Torquay appears
to be coming of late into more favour, though it is hardly
suited for a family bathing-place, where Paterfamilias can
wear out his old clothes, and the children dabble about in no
clothes to speak of. For swimmers, at least, there are
excellent bathing facilities, which we detail below. The
many excursions to be taken here should be an attraction in
the summer season ; and the town is then set off by all its
wealth of green. In early summer and in autumn, when
Torquay is most deserted, it often wears its pleasantest
aspect.

It is in winter and early spring, of course, that Torquay
has its regular season, recommended by the climate so well
known as mild, rather moist, relaxing, and soothing, due
to its peninsular situation, sheltered from all winds but the
south-east. Young people of delicate constitutions, and old
people suffering from irritable air-passages, do well here,

CLIMATE 67

many of the former being able to outgrow their weakness,
while the latter may have their days prolonged in genial
surroundings. Torquay seems rather sensitive about its
rainfall, which is undoubtedly considerable, though it
claims not to be so wet as some places on this coast; the
vicinity of two rivers, the Dart and the Teign, no doubt
drawing off some of the clouds. One must always be prepared
for considerable stretches of soft muggy weather, when people
may be seen going about with their umbrellas up from force
of habit, as revilers declare. The sub-tropical vegetation
speaks plainly for the climate's general effect.

We are not going to enter into vexed controversies
between Torquay and Ventnor on one side, and Falmouth or
Penzance on the other, as to comparative mean temperature
and range. Fogs are rare on the limestone rocks of Torquay ;
but it would be easy to get ourselves into a fog over
meteorological tables and other statistics, handled, as they are
apt to be, in the interests of rival watering-places. Mr.
Norris, the popular novelist, who has made his home here,
puts the matter somewhat bluntly, that in winter Torquay
is a little less cold than the rest of England. It can be
frosty and snowy enough in January or March, like other
places ; but it is more likely than most to enjoy a good
share of sunshine on its sheltered nooks. We leave it to the
medical profession to enlarge or qualify the statement that
Torquay is one of the most favoured of our winter resorts,
while its hilly configuration gives a variety of more or less
mildness and invigoratingness, since observations taken here
at three points within two miles show a considerable differ-
ence of temperature. The warmest and coldest parts vary
from five to eight degrees, even more in the summer time.

Most of the hotels are in the sheltered quarter by the
shore ; and the boarding-houses generally keep near the
same region, their winter patrons preferring what may be
called the characteristic climate of Torquay. But those
naking some stay here will have no difiiculty in finding
airier regions, especially at St. Mary Church, which stands
high towards the eastern neck of the peninsula. On the
farther side Babbicombe looks out full to the east over a

68 • TORQUAY

lofty cliff, exposed to cold winds even in early summer.
Fresh air has come so much into fashion now that on this
more bracing side, though two or three miles from any
railway station, the town is quickly developing, St. Mary
Church and Babbicombe having been joined to Torquay,
which now incorporates them as well as Cockington, on the
other side of the station. In those new quarters and in the
hollows between — for instance in the neighbourhood of
EUacombe Green — many small and cheap houses will be
found, while the general style of the buildings bespeaks
owners or tenants in easy circumstances. The price of the
better-class houses seems to have declined of late — a fact
probably connected with the change in medical opinion as
to the treatment of consumption by climate, and one hinting
that in the future Torquay must look to its constituency of
pleasure-seekers as much as to the invalids, who have been
its chief patrons.

A resort of well-to-do idlers as it largely is, Torquay cannot
be ill off for amusements. It wants, indeed, such a palace
of pleasure as is thought necessary in most resorts of the
kind. The ambitious scheme for a Kursaal has fallen
through ; the Winter Garden has for years been "to let" ;
and Blackpool or Scarborough would despise the small
pavilion where music is provided on the Princess Pier. The
Bath Saloon, however, well represents the more old-fashioned
type of rendezvous, where and elsewhere concerts, etc., are
given. There is a Theatre off the main street. Boating
and fishing are good and safe, unless perhaps when a south-
east wind blows into the bay. The dull autumn season
sees a stir of yachting in this fine haven. A notable regatta
is held in August, when Paignton, Brixham, and other
neighbours also amuse themselves in the same fashion.
There are steeple -chases at Petit Tor in spring. The
Torquay cricket week in August is of wide repute. The
Torquay harriers meet twice a week in the season, and there
is more than one pack of fox hounds in the neighbourhood.
Besides more ordinary games, polo can be played on Torre
Abbey Sands, Babbicombe Down makes a nine-hole golf
course, and there is a larger one a few miles off at Churston.

THE TOWN 69

A racket-court will be found on the Victoria Parade. The
flower shows of the Horticultural Society are here in their
element. A Recreation Ground has been formed near the
station, less indeed for public use than as an arena for the
athletic displays which draw gate-money; but there are
several public parks and greens opening among the private
grounds that make so much of Torquay's scenery.

THE TOWN

As one of the defects of its qualities, Torquay is such
an intricate place that our description of it must be less
systematic than we could wish. If this invertebrate town
have any backbone, it is Union Street^ winding behind the
gardened hill -face over the harbour, almost from Torre
Statipn to the Town Hall, then by Fleet Street descending to
the Strand at the back of the inner basin and terminating
at a central opening, above which, by Torwood Street, goes
off the Babbicombe Road. In this long thoroughfare most of
the shops seem to concentrate themselves. From it, and
other streets in the valley, curved or zigzag roads and
steep flights of stairs lead up to the heights, where houses
are only more widely spaced, and long lines of villas stretch
across the slopes of the promontory almost to St. Mary
Church and the cliffs of Babbicombe.

One good level road, seldom free from a coming and
going of cabs and omnibuses, leads round the shore from the
station to the harbour. This is bordered by a cliff, on which
run the Upper and Lower Rock Walks and Terrace^ very
prettily laid out with flowers and greenery. Then, on the'
seaward side, comes another garden by the Princess Pier,
enclosing the harbour on the west. The valley behind the
harbour contains the Public Gardens, lying beyond the
Post Office at the beginning of the Babbicombe Road. In
this sheltered situation, also, has been built a Winter
Garden ; but at present it stands desolate, Torquay, perhaps,
taking itself to be all Winter Garden. Across the harbour,
at the entrance of the Haldon Pier, stands a building known
as the Baths, which might rather be called Assembly Rooms,
containing two large halls, one used as a ballroom, one as a

70 * TORQUAY

skating rink, and other accommodations. There are baths to
be had here, but the swimming bath, such as it was, has been
done away with.

Bathing. At the back of the Baths building, reached through
the Pier gate, is a covered dressing place for men, with diving
boards, etc. (Id. and 2d, ). Close to this will be seen the entrance
to the Ladies' Bathing-Place in a sheltered cove. A little farther
on, reached by a lane round the Imperial Hotel, is the Peak Tor
Cow, fitted up with boxes, diving boards, etc., for swimmers, which
makes a capital bathing-place at almost all states of the tide, open free,
but two or three pence are expected by the attendant for use of
box, towels, etc. There is bathing still farther along, on the
Meadfoot Sands, where machines are provided for ladies ; also on
Oddicombe Beach below Babbicombe Downs, and at Anstey's Cove.
Ladies are accommodated in the bay beyond the Torquay station ;
and men may bathe mornings and evenings, when the tide permits,
from the Tor Abbey Sands, below the Station Road, or from the
sea-wall in the bay beyond.

There are several fine Churches in the town, the chief one
St. John's, by Street, which stands above the harbour and
has the peculiar feature of a Baptistery for immersion,
and some notable mosaics. It is Early English in style,
admired by some, not by all ; and the services are high.
That of St. Mary Church has been rebuilt in the same style,
but is in some respects thrown into the shade by the
Roman Catholic church near it. All Saints, Babbicombe,
also Early English, is a beautiful building richly ornamented
with marbles from the adjacent quarries, as are several
churches in this neighbourhood. The Mother Church of
Torquay, restored and enlarged, containing monuments of
the Cary family, is at Tor Mohun, a little way above the
railway.

Kent's Hole is a chief lion of Torquay, the cavern in which
many prehistoric remains have been found, which are to be seen
at the Museum, a little way above the Post-Office (open free
on Saturday afternoons, at other times a charge of Is.). Be-
sides the results of Mr. Pengelley's excavations, it has a good
collection of the animals, sea-weeds, etc., of Devonshire.

The Cavern itself is at Ilsham, towards the opposite shore of the
promontory, over a mile from the Post-Office, past which must be

THE TORRE VALLEY 71

followed the Babbicombe Road, till a direction board shows a turn
to the right. A minimum charge of Is. 6d. for admission is made,
reduced in the case of a party. Entrance is obtained through a
low and narrow passage into a cavern, said to be 600 feet in length,
opening upon a labyrinth oi smaller caverns and winding corridors.
The roofs glitter with stalactites, formed by the dripping of water
charged with carbonate of lime, and the floor is coated Avith slip-
pery stalagmite. A deep, dark, and cold pool terminates the cavern.
Here, in our own generation, were brought to light the bones
of the rhinoceros and elephant, the lion, wolf, bear, and hyena,
once native here, deposited upon the bed of the cavern to a depth
of 20 feet, overlaid by a layer of stalagmite. Mingled with them
lay arrow-heads and spear -headvS, charcoal, fragments of coarse
pottery, and knives of flint — relics famous as having had a most
important bearing on the question of man's antiquity. Other
deposits of the kind were also found in the caves at Brixham
(p. 79).

The Torre Valley, leading up from the sea, between the
station and the town, is one of the easiest ways to explore
the environs. The gardens of Torre Abbey, seat of the Carys,
close to the station, enclose ivy-shrouded ruins of the old
Prsemonstratensian Abbey, founded by William de Bruere in
1196, which was the wealthiest priory belonging to that
order in England. The refectory is now used as a chapel.
To the south of the beautiful pointed arch gateway is a 1 3th
century building known as the Spanish Barn, since it was
used to confine Armada prisoners. These ruins are not open
to the public.

Higher up the valley, near Torre Station, stands St.
Michael's Chapel, an ancient shrine, which, from its position
on an eminence, still serves as a sea-mark, as for a local ob-
servatory station of much interest to amateur meteorologists.
The hillside here, above the Newton Road, is laid out with
woods and winding walks as a public pleasure ground, and
may be recommended for a short stroll, which might be con-
tinued by the reservoir behind to the Cricket Field, where the
spacious Pavilion, overgrown with creepers, makes quite a
sight in its way. A little farther up is the beautiful Cemetery
with its many fine memorials. Good view^s may be had by
holding on the road to Barton, turning right to the sea at
Watcombe (p. 75), or left to the railway at Kingskerswell,

72 « TORQUAY

a long straggling village with a restored Churcli, from which
it is 4 miles back to the town.

In the lower part of the Torre Valley, a notable Bosery
and other nurseries are worth a visit. More than one of the
private gardens of Torquay are celebrated, but of them we
have no right to speak.

Cockington is the quarter, west of the railway, where
the swelling land has of late years been cut up by villas
and roads coming down to the sea at Livermead Bay, beyond
the little promontory laid out as a park below the station.
By these suburban roads, then by a true Devonshire lane not
yet spoiled by the builder, about a mile inland, is reached
the old hamlet in a shady hollow, where its thatched
cottages look unconscious how they are threatened with
being swallowed up in the growth of the town. At the
smithy, one turns up to the gate of the park, in which a
noble avenue leads to Cockington Court, and opposite it, on a
wooded knoll, the ivied old Church with a beautiful screen
and carved benches. The shortest way to this spot is
from Torquay Station, but one is so apt to go wrong among
the new roads, that it might be better to keep on the
Paignton Road to Livermead Bay and there turn up
Cockington Lane.

Two miles beyond Cockington, westward by road or path, we
can gain Marldon, also with an interesting Church. A little way
to the north of it is Compton Castle, now used in part as a farm-
house, so well preserved as to be one of the sights of the neighbour-
hood. It displays a series of projections, technically known as
machicoulis, through the openings of which hostile visitors might
be treated to a hot reception. The chapel and the priest's room
over it are fairly perfect, the latter furnished with hagioscopes for
a view of the altar. The greater portion of the surrounding wall
still remains, and there are traces of the portcullis defending the
postern gate. Here lived Sir Humphrey Gilbert, the Elizabethan
navigator.

About as far to the south-west of Marldon, "Westerland Beacon
(600 feet), beside the road to Totnes, offers a fine view, from which
one may descend to Paignton (p. 77), or, on the other side, to
Pomeroy Castle (p. 84). Windmill Hill, on the Paington Road, is
another good prospect point, 100 feet lower.

THE PENINSULA 73

ROUND THE PENINSULA TO BABBICOMBE, ETC.

Before going farther afield, let us visit some beautiful
spots which almost make part of the town. This may best
be done by taking a turn round the whole promontory, end-
ing at Hope's Nose, so as to reach the opposite coast of
this peninsula, some two miles broad behind Torquay proper,
though some of the devious ways would make the distance
rather more. The main thoroughfares across are the Babhi-
combe and St, Mary Church EoadSy between which stands
Warherry Hill, the highest point (450 feet), giving a good
view of the whole district.

Beyond the Imperial Hotel, as continuation of the lane
leading to the Bathing Cove, is a short but very pleasant sea
walk with seats and a good look-out over grand rocks. This
soon comes to an end ; and to gain the coast again we must
return to mount upwards between the walls of private para-
dises, which somewhat provokingly shut in the view, keeping
always as close to the shore as may be, till we emerge on the
common of Daddy Hole Plain, 200 feet above the sea. From
the tangled knoll to the right of the road our view is now
extended over the Meadford Sands and the cliffs beyond,
towards which we descend, coming into a very polite part of
Torquay, where Hesketh Crescent and the Osborne Hotel are
conspicuous features. Meadfoot Road, turning to the right
opposite the Post-Office, is a somewhat more direct way to
this suburb.

Here, unless bound only for a bathe on the Meadfoot
Sands, we have our choice of holding upwards by the fine
Lincombe Drive, which winds across to Kent's Cavern, through
another public park looking down on the Ilsham valley, or
of following the sea-wall road round Meadfoot Sands, to make
the same point by turning up this valley, that cuts off the
last swell of the promontory, where now at last we are clear
of Torquay's streets and roads. But it will add only two or
three miles more to the walk to keep right round, either by
the Ilsham Drive (closed to carriages on Tuesdays and
Thursdays) or hugging the rocky shore by more devious

74 » TORQUAY

foot-tracks. Thus we reach Hope's Nose, the extreme point,
off which lie some picturesquely rugged islands. Still by
the lower path or by the commanding drive above, we come
round to Ilsham, where the road strikes more directly down
past Anstey's Gove, while the path, taking on breadth and
dignity as the Bishop's Walk, keeps along the cliff side by
rocks and copses "for whispering lovers made" and other
wayfarers in no hurry to be done with its embowered nooks,

Anstey's Cove, to which we scramble down through a
leafy dell, is a deep rugged recess in the cliffs, at the bottom
of which stand a refreshment room, a boat-house, and two
or three bathing machines, marking one of the most admired
nooks about Torquay. Beyond curves an opener bay, also
backed with a high bank of greenery, cut off from the cove
by a point of jagged rocks, over which, when the tide is not
too high, we can pass from one to the other by help of
ladders. Above, near the entrance to the cove, is now dis-
played that board of doggerel verses which has made copy
for so many guide books ; below, the refreshment room ex-
hibits a still more comic Latin version of the same.

From the lane at the head of the cove, a pleasant path
may be taken up a wooded hillside, which leads back to
the road, thus on to where the Babbicombe Koad turns left
for the centre of the town. To the right, this goes on to
Babbicombe, about a mile, passing under Bishopstowe, an
Italianesque mansion among trees, the marine villa of a
Bishop of Exeter in days when Bishops could afford to be
luxurious. But very soon we are tempted to turn off through
a gate on the right, where a direction board marks the path
that will carry us more agreeably across the downs used as
golf links and rifle range.

Babbicombe Bay takes a wide, bold sweep, shut in by a
high cliff, its face and edge tastefully laid out with walks
and gardens. From the top there is a grand view, wider
than from any point of Torquay, with the advantage that
here one usually has the light at one's back, to look down on
the varied tints of the bay, the variegated cliffs, the red

THE BABBICOMBE SIDE 75

scaurs wreatlied with foliage beyond, the white strand melt-
ing into green and blue depths below ; then farther out, the
sparkling sea edged by reaches of green-topped coast, which
can be traced sometimes as far as Portland Bill, only that is
a sign of rain, and rain from the east has a trick of lasting,
so let us be well content with a less extended prospect. One
of the beauties of this corner is that at the end of Babbicombe
Bay the limestone and marble cliffs pass into the glowing
red sandstone, continued on to Dawlish and reflected from
the other side of the Exe estuary.

The Babbicombe cliff is now thickly fringed with houses,
in the centre of which stands the Royal Hotel. A zigzag
road down to the little pier, at the south end, brings us to
the Gary Arms, nestling snugly below. By the road beside
the Koyal Hotel, bearing to the left, or by a rough lane a
little farther down, on the way back to Anstey's Cove, we
might strike across the pine -clad summit of Warberry
Hill, to descend into the centre of Torquay. (The same
path is found in the other direction by keeping up to the
right of Ellacomhe Green^ at the head of Market Street, and
skirting a patch of allotment gardens till the wood is
reached.)

Having come so far, however, we may as well go on past
St. Mary Church, by a road winding back from the sea-front
of Babbicombe. Opposite the Church, a road leads down to
the next little bay of Petit Tor, and its quarry of richly
coloured marble, which might also be gained by scrambling
paths from the end of Oddicombe Beach, the north side of
Babbicombe Bay. A marine drive has been designed here ;
but at present one passes on by a walk above the shore.

Beyond Petit Tor, comes Watcombe, with its "Giant
Rocks," and horse -shoe landslip "so full of hillocks and
hollows, ridges and rocks, coated with the softest turf,
here smooth and open, there filled with a dense growth of
brambles, ferns, rushes, and a miscellaneous tangle, that for
the moment we fancy it the most romantic scene of all."
Watcomhe Park is celebrated for its rich display of conifers.

From Watcombe, unless one were inclined to walk on

76 « TORQUAY

along the coast to Teignmouth (8 miles), a return can be
made by an inland valley road to the top of Union Street.
But we might rather choose the road through St. Mary
Clmrch, to visit the fine churches already mentioned, and
the marble and terra-cotta works, which are the only
industries this district much concerns itself with, beyond the
curing of weak lungs. The terra-cotta is got from a clay
deposit at Watcombe ; and almost all the promontory is one
huge marble quarry, rich in madrepore fossils. The road
from St. Mary Church (2 m.), goes mostly down hill, leading
us into the middle of Union Street, below the height known
as the Castle.

EXCURSIONS FROM TORQUAY

Let us now enumerate the facilities for excursions offered
by Torquay, which are unusually varied.

The G. W. R. helps us to many outings on its own line, as in
connection with boats and coaches, by which round trip tickets are
given. Cheap fares are especially to be looked for on Wednesday,
the early closing day at Torquay. The excursion programmes of
this company should be consulted.

Coach trips are at present offered by rival undertakings ;
one starting on whole and half-day drives from the Strand,
Torquay, one from Newton Abbot, and one from Bovey Tracey on
the Moreton Hampstead branch, the two latter in connection with
Torquay trains. The excursions from the town deal naturally
rather with the beautiful spots about it, but sometimes are pusheo
on to the skirts of Dartmoor, which is more deeply penetrated by
the Bovey Tracey and Newton coaches, each day taking a different
route, as will be seen by their prospectuses.

Steamboat trips are to be had daily by the " Duke " and
the " Duchess of York " steamers, which, hailing from Exmouth,
ply along the coast on either hand, and may be said to have
Torquay for their headquarters. These excursions are extended in
one direction to Salcombe and Plymouth ; in the other sometimes
as far as Bournemouth ; but passengers must remember that they
depend on the weather for landing at places like Sidraouth and
Slapton Sands, where is no harbour ; some piers, too, on this
coast not being easily approachable in certain winds. A favourite
trip, when the tide serves, is to Dartmouth, connecting with the
river boats on the Dart.

TORQUAY DISTRICT

/(Buchland \ y

VM/ Tei/moL^

\^^heMoor Bickin^onf

===»fcs-_J!iJ\ \L^^J^~ — "^'^^^iTiaida^r'The Ness

Xl^iLLAshjT^on Newton A^orf-^jfc^ // |

'UnlnT Holn7\ >r

^ ParA J /zsT^^^^i. Denburi

^ ^S^»iJ""'"'"

^^^,=*==^^^v_^V|w \ Torbrian)

\?fe^f&s«.W kwrro'"

^/ J^. // 'Wju f^ich Wnj/l Babbicombe B.

Buckfastleigl&''^^^<^adhempswnji ((

/L/^Oorflpton \\iW J*^^

V ji&ea/jU\\ ^==aN \/

^>'1/ Ca5 ^ ^ SJT'^-Rs'* /i ^\ Cj^i'steyCoue

^S^ /fS^n/zK^ftlL . \^ ^tauertoM^

^'"^ 11 '^Q^if'^^9tP^\'^^Tnrnua\r

/^'''liiarldonir''''^'^ ^M^^^^f''^""^ Nose

^IV!:^^^^trSk^^fe=*=*=*'^^^^^^^C°°

^Beny f^^^MlMo^lh

f^K^ __^ ^Totn^a\j=^

yPomeroy \ \ B a U

^,^^^><^ltJ^"'HZ■bertm^,^^ 1 \.

^v^".--^^r"4"^^5^''°'''*<^^^>''''^-''

Xf^'^p^^^Jbiptford \^P!'''JisiM

]/\f I cAnu/orthg'

Fou^ellsconfm: J

^ittismm\-&rl^rmayj^ V^

Vs==^^'**^^^'^^sTA. Halwelll__^.^,_^

"\ J 1 ySM^'W^ C'^^" Sanrfs

'-^\ % "^z^.

^^,,^^=%,^^y^( Jg^^^

)i / V

--^DartmouM^^v^^^^^^^^ ^^^^

\4yeton H-od^iswea J> V
Gifford \jr^sM<Jf V^ V

^''^^\

rvc^^fe^A /

1 1/

X^^W-^==^=^===^'^^"^^

l^-'/f^A^^^J^C^rngsbridge

^ISlapton

y Sands

/ A \y»''='^fStokenJiam

il Start

1 ^^ u}9^''^'-P" .xSi

iTorcross Hotel

Malborlugh^ ''^^Y) iff

Bay

Salcomb^^ ,-'^^<^r^i' « j.l. \

/^

■^

i /

\

■^^ Start Pt V

J

Bolt Head \ n^/V

■^ Praw/e P/

""<J>

'

%>

Scale of Miles

^^

0123456

lVa//ier

eyBoutallsc

TO PAIGNTON AND DARTMOUTH 77

The steam launch, which runs regularly across the bay to Paign-
ton, twice a week extends its voyages to Brixham at the farther
end. Sailing yachts and boats are also available for navigating
this landlocked sheet.

Finally, carriages of all kinds, with horses quite used to the
ups and downs of their native soil, are always ready to take
visitors to beautiful spots far and near, the fares on such drives
being calculated at 3s. the first hour and Is. 3d. each other half
hour, or Is. a mile and half- fare back to distant places, for an
ordinary one horse fly, while the small "midges" may be had
at a lower rate. For distant drives it is well to make an arrange-
ment.

We cannot here undertake to guide strangers over Dart-
moor or the valley of the Exe, for which other sections of
our Devon Guide must be consulted. But we give in detail
some account of the country between the Teign and the
Kingsbridge Creek, which may be called Torquay's own
district, and for the most part belongs to that part of
Devon styled the Soutli Hams, a rich and varied stretcli of
undulating ground between Dartmoor and the sea.

The favourite round trip is by the Dart steamers between
Totnes and Da/rtmouthy both these places reached by rail from
Torquay.

TORQUAY TO THE DART

This excursion is made in either direction through Totnes or
Dartmouth. The steamers run twice a day, according to tide,
by studying which, in connection with railway time tables, one is
often able, starting early, to spend an hour or two in these towns
on the way. (Third class fare for the roimd 2s. 9d. )

Let us take the trip first by way of Dartmouth, so as to bring
in several places sure to be visited from Torquay. There are
frequent trains as far as Kingswear, the terminus (9 miles), with
plenty of room in most of them, as so many passengers get out at
Torquay. The first station is at a place which some day seems
likely to run into its larger neighbour.

PAIGNTON

Hotels : Esplanade .- Gerston, Broadmtad; at station ; Commercial, in town.

Paignton might well object to being belittled as a satellite
of Torquay, now that out of a quiet fishing village it has

78 TORQUAY

grown into such favour as a bathing-place, that its population
must be counted by thousands, augmented by hundreds of
nurseries in the season. Standing on an open shore, this
place is preferred by some, even for winter quarters, as less
shut in ; and if Paignton, smart and new for the most part,
with a more conventional aspect, wants the bolder features of
Torquay, it commands a fine view of them across the bay,
while it has what Torquay lacks, except at its extreme ends,
a good stretch of sands, also a promenade Pier and Pavilion
envied by the richer neighbour. The relation of the two
places is much like that of Bexhill and St. Leonards. Hardly
two miles separates their outskirts, connected by a road on
most of which the railway obstructs approach to the coast.
Besides frequent trains, omnibuses ply every hour or so ;
and there is also a service of steam launches from Torquay
Pier, when the wind does not make landing at Paignton a
matter of difficulty. The scheme of an electric tram seems
to have fallen through for the present.

From the station Victoria Street leads inland to the pretty
Green, besides which are the Post-Office and the Public Hall.
To the right here is the old restored Church, containing a
Norman doorway, a triple-arched stone screen, and a statued
tomb to Sir John Kirkham and his wife. Close to the
church stands an ivied tower, fragment of a palace of the
Bishops of Exeter, in which Miles Coverdale, the Reformer,
is traditionally said to have worked at translating the Bible.
On the other side of the railway one passes down to the sea,
where behind the Pier extends Paignton's Esplanade and
Green, recalling Littlehampton, with a bandstand and a
roomy cycling track. An encampment of tents beside the
Pier testifies in the season to the popularity of " mixed
bathing," allowed here. At the Torquay end, the front is
finished off by an extraordinary Moorish - like structure,
property of a gentleman whose name is literally a household
word. Round this a private road has been made and
thrown open as a short cut to the Torquay highway. At
the other end Roundham Head closes in the sweep above the
little harbour. Beyond this, from Cliff Road, a path takes us
round the red cliffs to Goodrington Sa7idSy on which secluded

PAIGNTON BRIXHAM 79

bathing-places might be found ; and thence the coast sweeps
on to Brixham.

Behind, Paignton straggles out into very pleasant country, rich
in real Devonshire lanes, and looking its best in the blossoming
season, the neighbourhood being much given to orchards and
cider making. An hour or so's walk leads to airy heights, with a
good prospect, the highest of them Westerland Beacon, beyond
which lies Berry Pomeroy Castle (see p. 84), 3 miles short of Totnes
(p. 83), and to the north is Compton Castle (p. 72). Between
Paignton and Totnes a conveyance runs some half-dozen times a
day (6 miles), cutting short the circuitous railway route by Newton
Abbot and the steamboat trip vid Dartmouth. Another walk
(about 4 miles) southwards would bring us across to StoTce Gabriel
(p. 86) above the windings of the Dart.

From Paignton the railway turns round the bay, skirting
its rocky points and sandy coves before mounting the slight
ridge that separates it from the valley of the Dart. Beyond
the village and sands of Goodrington comes Churston
Junction, near which are the Warhorough Golf Links. About
a mile off to the right is Galmpton, on a creek of the Dart ;
and an hour's walk upwards would thence lead to StoJce
Gabriel (p. 86), overlooking the river. On the left goes off a
short branch to Brixham, on the way to which Torquay
presents a fine view of itself across the sea, as Brixham
stands so full in sight from Torquay that visitors are likely
to run over to make nearer acquaintance with it (8 miles by
road). Besides frequent trains, a steam launch occasionally
takes this trip from Torquay and Paignton.

Brixham (Hotels : Bolton, Globe, etc.) is not so much a
place of pleasure as of business, being one of the most
important fishing stations on the coast, worked by its
celebrated trawlers from Start Point to the Bill of Portland.
A good many residences, however, have been built of late,
and artists are said to be taking a fancy to the quaint sea-
side houses and fine cliff scenery of the town, which must
contain now well on to 10,000 inhabitants. It is a strag-
gling place in two quarters. Upper or Church Brixham above,
and Brixham Qiiay below, " a sort of Devonshire Wapping
with a Billingsgate smell."

The Church, in the upper town, is a large ancient

80 ^ TORQUAY

structure of the 14tli century with a lofty tower. That in
the lower town used to be renowned for its ugliness, but
is now being restored and improved. Near this, on the
quay, is a statue of William III., over which good Jacobites
chuckle, and Whigs might desire a better memorial. For it
was here, as an obelisk also records, and as every schoolboy
knows, that the Prince of Orange landed, November 5,
1688, to play Guy Fawkes with the Stuart monarchy. The
stone on which he first set foot is preserved on the pier.

On Windmill Hill, near the upper quarter, is the Bone
Gave, celebrated as confirming the researches made at Kent's
Hole (p. 70), and there are two others not far off.

Nearly two miles east of Brixham Quay runs out Berry
Head, the bold point which protects Torbay from the south.
Upon it are the remains of a fortification dating from the
period of the long French war, and it was formerly the site
of a Koman camp. The fine prospects along the edge of this
promontory, on either side, hardly need indication.

On the road which goes nearest to the coast-line, by the
head of several small coves, a good piece of rocky scenery will
be found at Pudcomhe Cove, about 5 miles south. Proceeding
onwards the pedestrian may in another 2J miles reach Kingswear.
The high road from Brixham Quay to Kingswear is 5 miles. To
go all round by the coast would be double this distance ; but it is
well worth doing, at least from Man Sands, to which what is
practically a short cut may be taken through Upper Brixham from
Berry Head. The walk up the Dart estuary to Kingswear is least
to be missed.

To Kingswear (Royal Dart Hotel) the railway goes on
from Ghurston Junction, soon commanding views of the Dart,
which it skirts for a mile or two, then of Dartmouth, lying
most picturesquely beyond the lake-like river lively with
shipping. Kingswear, on the left side of the Dart, is ter-
minus of the railway ; but passengers for Dartmouth are
carried across in a steamboat to the G. W. R. station on the
other side, where connection is made with the Dart boats
and the coaches for Kingsbridge. There are public ferries
also, Kingswear being a suburb of the town across the water,
which it overlooks from its slopes. A walk up the hill,

DARTMOUTH, BUTTER WALK.

Photochrom Co., Ltd.

DARTMOUTH 81

past the Church, brings us to an old redoubt, commanding
fine views upon the mouth of the Dart.

DARTMOUTH
Hotels : Castle, Commercial, Raleigh, King's Arms, etc.

This town was once an important port, which has stood
sieges and sent out bold navigators, notably the discoverer
of Davis Straits. It has still a considerable stir of yachting ;
but perhaps its chief claim to nautical dignity comes from
its being the station of the Britannia, that floating naval
college where our Eattlin the Keefers and Midshipmen
Easys found not so many chances as their predecessors of
getting into mischief. This, with its consort, the Hindostan,
may be seen moored a little way up the stream ; but they
are to be replaced by the Naval College now erecting
on the height above, where the cadets have their play-
ground.

The picturesqueness of Dartmouth mainly lies in the
abruptness of the rich slopes shutting in the river here,
which one would hardly believe to be so near the open sea.
The town itself owes something to its situation, many of
the old houses rising in irregular tiers displayed upon a steep
ascent. Above the pier lies a stretch of level ground on
which stands the principal part of the town looking out
on an open space, half-quay, half-promenade. Only a few
of the old picturesque gable -fronted houses remain — the
principal row being in the Butterwalk, at the end of Duke
Street, behind the steamer landing-place, where at more
than one of the shops visitors are allowed to see rooms
showing fine old features of internal architecture and
decoration. A modern and handsome block of building
beside the pier makes a satisfactory copy of the late Tudor
domestic style. Here is the Post-Office, and the hotels are
all close at hand, as is the notable Church, of 14th century
origin.

St. Saviour's Church is a fine cruciform building, possessing a
more beautiful interior than might seem promised by the outside.

82 ^ TORQUAY

Its characteristic is a free use of colour in the rich altar, the
ancient and elaborate rood screen, the stone pulpit and elsewhere.
The large altar-piece, "Christ raising the widow's son," has now
been banished to the west gallery, the front of which shows
the arms of local benefactors. Other features are the carved
misereres, the Norman font, and the iron scroll-work on the south
door representing a spreading tree with two leopards standing on
its branches. A slab inlaid with rich canopies in brass, and
figures of Jofm Hawley, d. 1408, and his two wives, recall the
memory of a prosperous merchant of the 16th century.

St. Clement's, or Townstall Church, as it is usually called,
whose tower rises on the height above, is the mother church of
the town, and has some old tombs and epitaphs of interest.

Below the pier comes the quay, fronting the waterside
features of the old town, among them a fort in fair preserva-
tion. Above this, the name of Newcomen Street reminds us
that Dartmouth was birthplace of one of the pioneers of
the steam engine. Dartmouth Gastle stands a good mile
down the shore, reached by following the main street, then
keeping always as near the shore as possible.

From the ruins of this Tudor fortress there is a fine view over
the mouth of the river, here narrowed to about 250 yards between
verdured cliffs. On the other side is seen Kingswear Castle, now
restored and occupied as a residence, from which a chain used to
be stretched across to Dartmouth Castle, barring the harbour
entrance.

Below the Castle is what once served as its chapel, the quaint
little church of St. Petrock, one of great antiquity, where services
are still held on summer evenings. The key may be had at the
adjoining fort.

Beyond the ruins, below the battery, the Cove has been fitted
up as a Bathing Place (reserved for ladies in the forenoon).

The path through the castle up the height called Gallant's
Bower, makes a very pleasant walk. It presently divides, the
lower branch leading down to C&mpass Cove, where the Channel
Islands telegraph line takes the water ; the upper one holding on
by a lane past a farm and the gate of Redlap House, to the tall
church tower of Stoke Fleming (p. 87), whence it is an easy hour's
stroll down hill by the high road into Dartmouth.

Not only the river mouth on both sides, but the creeks above
the town and the heights around it offer lovely walks, only to be
spoiled by the damp weather that too often shrouds the beauties
of this part of Devon, else deserving to be made more of than in a
mere excursion from Torquay.

TOTNES 83

Torquay to Totnes by rail. — The trip by steamer up
the Dart is the one most often made from Dartmouth, which
again may be taken downwards from Totnes. Let us now
return to Torquay to reach the latter place by rail, starting
in the opposite direction for Newton Ahhot (p. 7), where we
change on to the Plymouth line, that takes us for 9 miles
through a green country scarred by sandstone quarries. In
9 miles we cross the Dart above the curved reach with
which it cornea into Totnes.

TOTNES

Hotels : Seymour, Seven Stars, near the Bridge ; Castle, in the town.

This is one of the oldest towns in Devon, with a legend
that the mythical Trojan hero, Brutus, landed here, in proof
of which the very stone on which he first set foot may still
be seen. It stands on a hill rising from the Dart, the narrow
mounting main street spanned by a gateway, above which
some old houses with overhanging stories of piazza fronts
recall Chester on a small scale. Its population of 4000 seems
to flourish fairly in an easy-going way. The chief objects
of interest are the Church, the Castle, the Bridge, and such
remains as are discernible of the old Roman road and the
town ramparts.

The Castle, built by a Norman baron, Judhael de Totneis, will,
on leaving the station, be soon visible on an eminence among trees.
(A small charge for admission : ring bell. ) The keep, of red sand-
stone, is circular in form and massed with ivy, surrounded by
pleasant garden-grounds. The view from the battlements is very
extensive and beautiful.

From the Castle grounds we pass to the Church, Perpendicular
in style, whose fine red tower is also a conspicuous feature in the
upper part of the town. The stone pulpit is richly carved, and
the restored screen a fine one in the same style as that at St.
Saviour's, Dartmouth. The Parochial Library, over the Church
Porch, contains a notable collection of the works of the Fathers,
and folios of the 17th century divines.

The Guildhall, not far off, with curious old oaken stalls, formed
part of the old Benedictine Priory of St. Mary's.

On leaving the Church or the Guildhall, strangers should
be sure to turn farther up the main street, as there are the

84 • TORQUAY

quaint piazzas already mentioned, and the Norman arch of
North Gate. East Gate, in the middle of this thoroughfare,
divides it into High Street and Fore Street.

At the lower end of Fore Street a handsome stone Bridge
connects Totnes with its suburb Bridgetown, where another
large church catches the eye from afar, which on nearer ex-
amination turns out to be much the work of this century.
An Island in the river, reached from the bridge by a flight
of stone steps, forms a promenade, the view from which is
somewhat spoilt by the storehouses below the Seymour Hotel.
Beyond them and the steamboat landing-place, there is a
pleasant walk through the fields on the left bank.

Up the river also one may find agreeable saunters ; and
boating and fishing would be resources for a few days' stay.

Berry Pomeroy, 2 m., lies on one road to Torquay
(9 miles), and the Castle, the main lion of this neighbour-
hood, is nearly a mile north of the village. To reach
it take the road to the left, a little beyond the village,
and you will soon gain sight of the ruins rising among thick
wood. A small gratuity, going towards the restoration of
the parish church, is expected for the loan of the key, which
should be procured before entering the precincts of the
Castle. Kefreshments also may be had at the lodge-keeper's.
There is no admission on Sunday.

The remains of this once stately stronghold, erected in the days
of the Conqueror by Ralph de Pomeroi, seem to hang upon the
brink of a lofty cliff which starts up with picturesque boldness
from the depths of a glen. The lands passed to the family of Lord
Protector Somerset, forfeited by treason ; and Sir Edward Seymour,
the leader of "the country party" against James II., maintained
here a splendid state, but the place appears to have fallen into
decay soon after his decease. Tradition ascribes its destruction to
lightning. The ruins now belong to the Duke of Somerset, as
representative of the ancient family of Seymour, and are maintained
in due repair. They consist of an embattled, ivy-grown gateway,
" Lady Margaret's " ToAver at the east end, and fragments of walls,
and of the more modern residential part of the building. The
view from above the glen should not be missed. Another point
is the "Wishing Tree," a fine beech, carved with many names of
those who may or may not have got their wishes by walking three
times backwards around it.

T0TNB8 85

The Church, in the village, is partly an ancient building, rebuilt
in 1485. The south aisle is of later date. Noticeable in it are its
fine screen, its rood-loft, and various memorials of the Pomeroys
and Seymours, especially Lord Edward Seymour, died 1593, and
Sir Edward Seymour. John Prince, vicar of the parish, 1701,
here wrote his well-known work on the Worthies of Devon.

The following other spots in the neighbourhood are often visited.

There is a fine church also at Little Hempston, half an hour's
walk to the north of Totnes, and about as far to the west of Berry
Pomeroy Castle.

At Dartington, 2 miles by footpath, quitting the Ashburton
Road f of a mile out of the town, is an old English house that
embodies a portion of the feudal mansion of the Hollands, Dukes
of Exeter, and was built, as a sculptured escutcheon shows, by
the first of that family in the reign of Richard II. The Great
Hall is now unroofed. The kitchen and some of the outbuildings
also remain. On the west side spreads a terraced garden, ordered
in the Elizabethan style. The outer quadrangle is in tolerable
preservation ; but of the inner court the relics are scanty. Near
the house stood the Church, now demolished, with the exception
of the tower, in which the Champernowne Monument is still pre-
served. The new Church, in another part of the parish, built in
1880, contains a good deal of the woodwork and other materials
from the old one, notably the pulpit and a carved oak screen.

About 1 mile beyond is Staverton Bridge, commanding a fine
view of the vale of the Dart, and close to Staverton Station on the
Ashburton branch line. Staverton village (Inn : Eing of Bells)
has a restored Church with a fine and unusually large rood screen,
recently repaired.

These are only samples of the many good excursions to
be taken from Totnes, whence Dartmoor also may be visited
by the Ashburton branch. What everybody does here is to
go down the Dart by the tidal steamers. The station is quite
a mile from the landing place near the bridge, but hotel
omnibuses and cabs are waiting to give passengers a lift. The
trip takes an hour ; and the only thing to be said against
it is that in fine weather the boats are apt to be rather crowded.
Tourists coming up the river must, of course, read our notes
backwards.

Totnes to Dartmouth by river (10 m.). The Dart lias
been called the English Rhine, and travellers, misled by
this compliment, are sometimes disappointed. It is not in

8(J • TORQUAY

the least like the Khine, except in having water and banks,
but it has thoroughly English charms of its own. At Totnes
it is a smooth river about the size of the Isis at Oxford.
The little steamer puffs along between green meadows and
oak woods edging the stream, sometimes so narrow that
we seem about to run ashore, then opening out into wide
lake-like reaches. At one or two points the whistle may
be sounded to evoke an echo from the overhanging shore.
Soon on the right we pass the high wooded banks of
Sharpham, where the river makes picturesque windings. In
the woods here are a notable rookery and a heronry. On
the left comes the village of Duncannon, beyond which a
glimpse is caught of the ivy-clad church of Stoke Gabriel,
from which one can walk to Paignton, Torquay, or Dartmouth.
On the opposite side opens the long inlet called Bow Creek.
The next place to be noted is Sandridge, birthplace of the
navigator, John Davis, on the left. Dittisham, conspicu-
ously situated on the neck of an isthmus, below Fire Beacon
Hilly is visible across the stream, which here expands to the
breadth of a mile, making a sweep that brings us round to
another view of Dittisham, where the boat calls. Lower
Dittisham has a fame for plums and cockles that attracts
excursionists. There is a ferry here. The channel, again
narrowing, appears at low tide aplit by a rock known as the
Anchor Stone, on which Sir Walter Ealeigh is traditionally
said to have enjoyed his pipe; and it is also known as
the " Scolds' Stone," where ill-tempered wives of Dittisham
were set to cool. On a promontory to the left stretch the
sylvan slopes of Greenway House, birthplace of Sir Walter's
half-brother and rival explorer, Sir Humphrey Gilbert ; and
Greenway claims to be the first English home of the potato.
The railway is then seen edging the left shore, the other side
falling back round a long inlet. Dartmouth comes into view,
above which we pass close to the Britannia and Hindostan
training ships, and may chance to find those smooth waters
alive with small craft manned by future Nelsons. The
boat puts us out at the G. W. R. landing stage (ticket ofiice),
from which another steamer connects with all the trains at
Kingswear.

THE KINGSBRIDGE COACH ROUTE 87

THE KINGSBRIDGE ROUND

Other notable points of the South Hams are to be strung on
what we may call the outer circle excursion from Torquay, taken
by coach along the coast from Dartmouth to Kingsbridge, and back
by rail through Totnes, or vice versd.

Coaches start from the G. W. R. pier once a day all the year
round, and twice in summer. Third class excursion tickets covering
the whole round trip from Torquay in either direction, 5s. The
coach fare alone is 3s. 6d.

Dartmoutli to Kingsbridge (15 m.) — The road out of
Dartmouth is so narrow and steep as to give us a hint of
adventurous travel in the old times. On the left we have
fine prospects of the river. Once four or five horses have
tugged us up the ascent, we bowl on over breezy heights to
Stoke Fleming, where there are inns and a few lodgings for
visitors, with a fair beach for bathing, adorned by red sand-
stone rocks and trees growing down almost into the water,
as well as by the traces of a submerged forest. We have
heard caution suggested as to the bathing hereabouts. The
ancient Church is notable by its tower, and contains two
fine brasses. To this point pedestrians may keep round the
cliffs by Dartmouth Castle (see p. 82).

As we descend from this village the long sweep of Start
Bay appears in front, brought to an end by the lighthouse-
crowned Start Point. After dropping to the sea-level at a
little bay called Blackpool, where will be noticed a curious-
looking edifice built by an old salt, with a quarter-deck walk
to help him in feeling at home on land, the road winds up
again to Street {King's Arms Inn\ below which there are
fine bits of shore scenery.

Thence begins the descent to Slapton Sands. This
remarkable beach consists of a belt of gravel more than 2
miles in length, rising only a few feet above high-water
mark. On the other side is a long sheet of fresh water
called Slapton Lea, narrow at first, but expanding to a
breadth of from a quarter to half a mile. The " Leas " (in
Cornwall Looes) that make a not unrommon feature of this
coast, are usually much smaller, formed at the mouth of a
stream where a pool has been dammed up by shingle,

88 ^ TORQUAY

through which it sometimes bursts with tremendous noise,
flowing free till a gale again heaps up its bar. This one is
a favourite habitat of waterfowl, and abounding in pike,
perch, and roach. The popular battues or massacres of wild
fowl which used to take place here in January are now put
an end to, but good fishing may be had from the Sands Hotels
passed on the coach road not quite half-way along the beach.

The village of Slapton lies nearly a mile west, behind the
line of hill which rises from the water. The road traverses
the beach from end to end, then at the southern end we
reach Tor Cross Hotel, which has another lake of its own
beyond. The latter hotel being the centre of the coach
enterprise, a halt is made there, enabling passengers at least
to stroll on the shore for a view of Start Point. The
excursion steamers from Exmouth, Torquay, etc., frequently
run to the Slapton Sands, where passengers can be landed
in smooth weather. Fishing seems the main interest here,
but the bathing is also most inviting.

At the hamlet of Tor Cross, where the high cliffs recom-
mence, the road leaves the coast, sweeping round the Lea,
and for more than half a mile almost reverses its previous
course. Then it turns past the Perpendicular ivy-clad
Church of Stokenham, to wind up and down through a
pleasant inland district of orchards, straggling villages, and
substantial church towers, one very like another, till a little
beyond Charlton is reached the Kingsb ridge inlet, at low tide
an expanse of weeds and wetness seamed by narrow channels,
whose ramifying shores we now skirt as far as Kingsbridge.

From Tor Cross to Salcombe, at the mouth of this creek, it is
14 or 15 m. round the coast by Start Point and Prawle Point
The far-seen Lighthouse on the rugged ridge of Start Point makes
the goal of a 4 mile up and down walk from Tor Cross, with small
inns for refreshment on the way at Bee Sands and Hall Sands,
nooks admired by artists. Beyond the Start comes Pear Tree
Point, from which it is about 4 miles on to PrawU (p. 93), whence
one may reach Salcombe a little more directly by road.

By Rail to Kingsbridge, which makes part of the round
trip from Torquay, one keeps on the main line from Totnes
(p. 83) a few miles, as far as Brent, the proper name of

KINQSBRIDGE BY RAIL 89

which is South Brent, in distinction from the Brent Tor of
Dartmoor, not to speak of the Brent Knoll of Somerset.
This market village {Royal Oak and Anchor Inns near station)
has a hill of its own, an outpost of Dartmoor, and a Church
to show with a Norman tower, a fine parclose, a richly
decorated screen, an ancient font, and other memorials.

Any one waiting an hour or two at this junction, on a fine day,
might spend the time well by going up Brent Hill (1000 ft.), from
which he will have a wide view of Dartmoor inland, and the
agricultural district known as the South Hams towards the sea.
The road over the railway bridge leads in about half a mile to a
lane turning to the left behind a little country house ; then by
following the lanes and paths always upward it is easy to reach
the top.

Some two miles up the river there is a fine series of cascades ;
and its rushing course, if a longer expedition be desired, will guide
us on to Dartmoor, where it rises at Avon Head.

The branch from Brent to Kingshridge, which has super-
seded the old coach route from Wrangaton (the next station
on the main line) makes a pretty bit of travel by the course
of the Avon, one of the smallest but not the least beautiful
of many streams bearing this name. The train crosses and
re-crosses it, giving peeps of wooded glens, old ivied bridges,
and rippling beaches inviting to anglers, who can obtain the
right of fishing here at £2 : lOs. per annum. The way stations
are Avonwick^ Gar a Bridge, and Loddiswell. Beyond this last
station the river leaves the railway, taking its course down
a wider valley to the right, where it soon opens into its
estuary below Aveton Gifford (see p. 95). Peaceful as it
looks on its upper reaches, this little stream sometimes floods
so as to drown the railway, when suddenly swollen by the
melting of snows on its Dartmoor head.

KINGSBRIDGE

Hotels : King's Arms, Albion, in the main street ; Anchor, near the quay.

This is a strangely named place, for there is no bridge
here, no river indeed, and no sea to speak of, but the narrow
branching inlet which, though it looks so marine on the

90 TORQUAY

map, becomes at low water a wilderness of mud and sand.
The town consists mainly of one long street, descending to
the head of this inlet, near a quay where small vessels are
set afloat by the tide. About half way up the street stands
the Church, with one or two fine monuments and remains of
a good oak screen. Outside may be read a famous epitaph
which, indeed, has been used in several west-country church-
yards : —

Here lie I at the chancel door,

Here lie I because I am poor.

The farther in, the more you'll pay,

Here lie I as warm as they.

Close to the Church is the Toion Hallj containing a
museum with a collection of birds, etc. The Grammar
School is another institution of Kingsbridge. The Church of
Dodbrooke, an older suburb, is reached by turning off to the
right a little way beyond the King's Arms. The original
parish church of Kingsbridge is at ChurchstoWy 2 miles off,
on a height where its tower shows welL

The whole town contains over 3000 inhabitants, and has
a pleasant thriving look, though fears are felt that its rail-
way branch may do it no good by carrying off to Plymouth
the rural customers who hitherto made it a marketing
centre. The station is just out of the town, above the head
of the estuary, from which a small steamer still goes twice a
week to Plymouth.

This is, or was, a great place for the manufacture of white ale,
a beverage once much in favour hereabouts, but now going out of
use, and hardly known except in South Devon. We do not know
the secrets of its composition, but it recalls some of the thin light
beers popular in North Germany, and is said to be good for the
stomach-ache ; one story goes that it was introduced here by a
German doctor ; another, that it represents the original beverage
of our Saxon ancestors. The country about is pretty and well
cultivated, testifying to the mildness of the climate by richness of
vegetation. The grounds of Combe Royal, behind the town, can
show orange-trees bearing fruit in the open air. Bowringsleigh
is a fine old house and grounds on the other side of the town, near
the station. Casual visitors are not welcomed at either of these
places ; but the latter would probably be opened to any one really
interested in archaeology. The scenery of Mr. Baring Gould's Court

KINGSBRIDGB TO SALCOMBE 91

Royal will readily be recognised in the fine neighbourhood, which
might well be explored from the Kingsbridge hotels. The trip to
Tor Cross and Slapton by coach (p. 88) and to Salcombe by steamer
may be specially recommended. The beauties and antiquities of
Kingsbridge are amply treated in Mr. J. Fairweather's local guide.

KINGSBRIDGE TO SALCOMBE AND THE COAST

KingBbridge is at present terminus of the line by which
visitors approach Salcomhe, farther down, near the mouth of
the inlet. The journey is usually continued by a little
steamer that plies from a higher or lower point according to
the tide ; but in any case it is a few minutes' walk from the
station, whence a bus runs to the quay (turn down from
station and along the left shore of the creek). The passage
is made in little over half an hour ; but there will often be
some delay, as the boat depends on tide. The distance by
water is about 6 miles, between low, rocky edges from which
rise slopes of meadow and wood, pleasant to see, if not
markedly picturesque. On the left Charlton church tower
marks the line of the coach road from Dartmouth (p. 88).
Several side creeks open out on either hand ; then one is
surprised with a more lively view, as the steamer rounds a
corner upon Salcombe nestling under its ivied Church, with
a show of yachts and small shipping in the sheltered sound
80 finely shut in.

An omnibus for Salcombe meets certain trains. This
takes rather longer than the boat, as the driving road makes
a high circuit (6-7 miles) mounting to the village of West
Alvington with a fine peal of bells in its tower, then by
airy uplands to Malborough, whose spire, conspicuous in
this land of church towers, will have already made a land-
mark all the way from Tor Cross to Kingsbridge. Thence
the road bends round and descends into Salcombe by the
farther end.

Walking to Salcombe, one may save about 2 miles as follows :
Take the path along right side of inlet, at the last houses turning
up over fields into the old road, an up and down lane marked by
disused telegraph posts. Presently comes one turn to right, then
another to left, else this road goes on pretty straight till in 2 miles

92 TORQUAY

it drops to a large creek, with the spire of Malborough Church
showing to the right. Crossing the bridge at the head of the
creek, and mounting the lane, almost at once take a path left lead-
ing up, beside lUon Castle Farm in a hollow, then up again, over
a lane at the top, and down to Batson at the head of another
creek. Thence a path round the shore brings one to Salcombe
Church, looking over Shadycombe Creek.

SALCOMBE

This is a small port, which, now that it has lost its ship-
building trade, begins to turn its attention in earnest to
visitors, claiming due rights as the most southerly, and one
of the most beautiful resorts of Devon, which has been kept
back by want of communications, but might become a second
Torquay if the railway could be pushed on to it. There is
one good hotel. The Marine, standing in its own grounds at
the end of the village, in which are the King's Arms,
Victoria, and still less pretentious inns. Lodging-houses
have sprung up about the higher edge of the place, looking
down on the picturesquely indented sound near the mouth
of which Salcombe lies so snugly. Some way out, near the
sands behind Bolt Head, is the Bolt Head Private Hotel, and
another large hotel is projected in this direction.

The main street by the shore is narrow and quaint ; and
the shore itself is almost everywhere blocked up by wharves
or grounds. Unless one can obtain admission to the fine
gardens of the Moult (formerly residence of Froude, the
historian, who died at Woodville above the Marine Hotel),
the only sight for visitors is the shell of an old castle on the
waterside, which, though in no commanding position, was
the last Devonshire stronghold that held out for King
Charles. The Church, whose ivied w'alls show well above
the harbour, is a modern one, well cared for, with metal
chancel gates as its newest and most striking ornament.

The chief attractions of Salcombe are the coast scenery,
and the soft air which in winter invites a growing number
of delicate patients. The place is so sheltered by high lands
as to command one of the mildest climates known in
England. Myrtles and other equally tender plants flourish

SALCOMBE 93

on the shore ; lemon, citron, and orange trees blossom and
fruit in the gardens ; rare wild flowers and ferns abound in
the neighbourhood. Salcombe boasts that here, first in
England, the aloe came into flower. In winter the day
temperature is said to be seldom below 50°, but sea-breezes
temper the heat in summer, and the rainfall appears to be a
little below the South Devon average, which indeed is not
saying much for Salcombe. Bathing machines seem un-
known ; and the best way of getting a dip is by crossing the
harbour in the ferry-boat for unfrequented sandy coves
beyond. Boating in these land-locked waters is safe unless
for the chance of being left high and dry by a falling tide ;
and this is an excellent yachting station.

Sea and land here are beautiful, whether we seek the
high moorlands enclosing the inlet, or the rock-bound sea
front, with its gloomy cliff's, its romantic coves, and the dark
caverns under Bolt Head. From Bolt Head to Bolt Tail the
shore fringes a desolate windy wilderness, making an
effective contrast to the characteristic scenery of the county.
On the other side of the harbour the coast-line towards
Prawle Point and the Start is not less attractive ; and inland
will be found the luxuriant lanes and leafy charms of
Devonshire.

To walk from Salcombe to Kingshridge (4 or 5 miles) reverse the
indications given on p. 91, starting at the Church by a lane
marked Knowlt, then by the first turn right round the creek to
Batson ; there take lane up hill, and path presently branching to
left, which over the ridge leads into the old Kingsbridge road.
The shores of the creeks above Salcombe are not particularly
inviting.

Cross-roads and lanes lead over the peninsula between this inlet
and the Avon estuary, where the spire of ^lalborough Church,
about 2 miles behind Salcombe, will usually be a landmark.

Prawle Point, 300 feet high, is about five miles distant
by the coast. To reach it you cross the ferry to Portle-
mouth, where one may either take a path by the shore all
the way round the mouth of the estuary, or go straight up
a steep lane to the Church, interesting for its carved screen,
then follow a road to the right of the church, till a lane
turns off to the Rickham coastguard station. This

94 TORQUAY

cuts off a corner, and brings us to the open coast, along
which the path runs in and out, up and down, by many a
rugged cliff and wave-worn gulf. The Point is a wild
broken headland of gneiss rock having underneath it a
natural arch, through which boats may be steered in calm
weather. The view from here of Bolt Head, standing out
beyond the bay to the west, is very fine. The walk may be
continued eastwards to Start Point (5 m.), conspicuous by its
lighthouse, and (9 m.) Tor Cross Hotel (p. 88).

From East Frawle, behind the point, there is a shorter way
back to Salcombe, and from Start Point one might return to
Salcombe by the direct road across the peninsula (7 miles) passing
by Chivelstone, where another towered church, with a fine screen,
can be visited.

Bolt Head is three miles south of Salcombe on the other
side, reached by a road running parallel with the inlet and
passing the remains of the old Castle, then the Moult, a
wooded height, long the property of the Courtenays, between
the North and South Sands. Beyond an ornamental life-
boat house, the road turns up to the left, and enters
private grounds by a gate at which two-legged tourists are
admitted, but not their dogs. Through a wood that in May
glows with a carpet of bluebells, we now follow an em-
bowered path, marked all the way by white stones, leading
next under a group of fantastic rocks crowned by a flagstaff,
into a deep hollow where it apparently turns inland, but
soon zigzags up to Bolt Head. From the farmhouse in this
hollow, it is possible to strike a little more directly back to
Salcombe, but the way can easily be lost, and the stranger
may chance to entangle himself on the sides of a valley
behind clothed with an almost impassable jungle.

The Head is a promontory of mica schist 430 feet high. Below
it are several reefs, and an island called the Mewstone, a name that
recurs on this coast, Tnew meaning gull. In the cliff close at hand
may be noticed the entrance to Bull's Hole, a cavern which is
locally fabled to go underground for a couple of miles, reappearing
at Saw Mill Cove, the only break in the bristling wall of cliff that
extends from Bolt Head to Bolt Tail, a distance of 6 miles.
Opposite this cove a rock called the Ham Stone stands out to sea,

BIGBURY BAT 95

and beyond it we rise to Bolbury Down, over which lies the whole
of the remaining distance to the "Tail." The coast scenery is
very fine all the way, along a series of rugged headlands,
inhabited by a multitude of sea-birds. Their stern charms should
be seen from a boat. The white stones marking the path must be
useful in the dusk, for the rough edge is often dangerous, especially
where a landslip has happened. A little short of the "Tail" is
Ralph's Hole, a fissure so called from a celebrated smuggler who
frequented it ; and between it and the headland the shore is in-
dented by Ramillies' Cove, where the wreck of the "Ramillies"
frigate a century ago lost over 600 lives.

Bolt Tail is the farther corner of this broad promontory,
where we look westward over the wide expanse of Bigbury
Bay, into which the Avon and the Erme pour a large pro-
portion of the waters collected on the southern slopes of
Dartmoor. Below this point lies Hope Cove {Hojpe and
Anchor Inn), whose prominent "Kock of Gibraltar" and
other fine features have attracted artists. From Hope to
Salcombe is under 6 miles by road through Malborough.

Beyond Hope, near the mouth of the Avon, a little
inland, stands the picturesque village of Thurlestone, with
its fine old Church, now to get much-needed restoration, and
its new hotel. Thurlestone is noted for a singularly arched
rock of red sandstone on the shores, and for a beach which
invites its development as a bathing-place, only about 4
miles from Kingsbridge by direct road. Golf links have
been laid out as a beginning of attractions.

Over the ridge is Bantham, a small knot of red and white
houses on a cliff above the Avon estuary, separated from the
Thurlestone beach by a curve of fine red and gray cliff.
Bathing and boating must be set about with caution at the
mouth of the Avon, as the tide runs with dangerous force
through this narrow opening, which is guarded by Burr
Island, turning a very bold rock face to the sea, and crowned
by a ruined erection that makes a prominent sea-mark.

At Bantham there is a ferry across for Bigbury, whose
steepled Church shows on the height. The lowest bridge is at
Aveton Giffbrd, 3 or 4 miles up the river, a pretty village
with an ancient Church worth inspection, as is that of
Bigbury.

96 # TORQUAY

Beyond the Avon comes another section of the South
Hams, the background of Bigbury Bay, watered by the
beautiful rivers Erme and Yealm. But this district is not
very accessible from Torquay, coming rather within the
field of Plymouth excursions ; nor indeed is it much opened
out by regular conveyances. It will be enough, then, if we
indicate the way on to Plymouth, which is by main G. W. R.
line from Brent, under the slopes of Dartmoor ; or by
road from Kingsbridge, through Aveton Giford (4 miles)
Modbury (4 miles) Yealmpton (6 miles) and about 7 miles
farther to Plymouth. From Millbay Station, Plymouth, a
railway branch comes as far as Yealmpton, but has stopped
short on its way to Modhury^ which is connected by coach
(5 miles) with Ivyhridge Station on the G. W. R. main line.

The way by the deeply indented coast would be a good
deal further, especially if one had leave to turn aside into
the Fleet Drive along the banks of the Erme, and the
circular Memhland Drive upon the promontory east of the
Yealm mouth (the latter open on Saturdays) which are
the tourist lions of this district. The only high class hotel
we know hereabouts is the new Yealm Hotel at Newton
Ferrers (about three miles from Yealmpton) from which, in
summer, one can get on to Plymouth by frequent excursion
steamers, and always by steam launch to Steer Point Station.

The South Hams Light Railway scheme, which for the present
has met a check, would facilitate travel here, by giving a direct
route between Plymouth and Torquay vid Modbury, Salcombe,
Kingsbridge, and Dartmouth.

EXETER TO PLYMOUTH

This journey is made by the rival G. W. R. and L. & S.-W.
lines, wliich pass round Dartmoor on its south and north
sides respectively, at several points opening up its outskirts.
There are three main lines of road, two taking roughly the
same courses as these railways, while another boldly cuts
across the centre of Dartmoor. The Great Western line
along the South Hams being the most direct as well as
the most populous way, it seems best to describe this as the
main route to Plymouth, in leaving which, we will follow
backwards the more arduous course of the South-Western ;
then also take the reader over the moor by road, joining
its railway approaches.

THE GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY

In our Torquay Section we have followed the first half
of this route, by Newton Abbot, where the Moreton Hampstead
branch goes off (p. 160), and by Totnes (branch to Ashhurton,
p. 154). To these branches we shall return in our Dartmoor
excursions.

At South Brent (branch to KingsbrUge^ p. 89) the
railway runs between the outer slopes of Dartmoor and
the rich undulations of the South Hams, presenting fine
contrasts of scenery that might be explored on either
hand. A little way out of South Brent unite two roads
from Exeter, one coming by Ashburton over the edge of the
moor ; the other by Totnes through more lowland country :
their course is henceforth not far ofi' the railway. Next to

7

98 EXETER TO PLYMOUTH

South Brent is Wrangaton, a station formerly known as
Kingshridge Road, when Kingsbridge was hence reached by
coach. There is an inn here, and above it Ughorough
Beacon, an outlying point of Dartmoor, may be ascended
for a view similar to that from Brent Hill above South
Brent. The village of Ugborough, a good mile south of the
line, has a fine towered church with ancient features and
traces of an elaborate screen.

At South Brent we left the Avon valley, and five miles
west, at Ivy Bridge, road and rail cross the course of another
beautiful Dartmoor stream, which makes this little town a
place of tourist note.

Ivy Bridge (Hotels : London, King's Arms) might be
mentioned as one of the favourite excursions out of Ply-
mouth ; but as the main line brings us through it on the
way, we may make a halt now at one of its hotels. The
railway, passing along the southern slope of Dartmoor,
spans the Erme by a viaduct 110 feet high, close to the
station. This river, of all the streams on the south of Dart-
moor surpassed perhaps only by the Dart in beauty, breaks
down from the heights through a narrow V-shaped ravine
which, just below the viaduct, opens out on the lowland
district of the South Hams. Here a large paper-mill makes
a blotch in the landscape, but contributes to the prosperity
of this village straggling into four parishes. In the place
itself the most imposing ecclesiastical edifice is a Gothic
Wesleyan chapel. Below the town, the Erme's bank
is bordered by the beautiful Fleet Drive, which runs in
private grounds, not open without special permit from the
owner or his estate agent.

The walks and drives down the Erme take one to the coast,
through rich lowland scenery. At the other side of the loftily-
placed railway station the rushing river becomes at once a true
Dartmoor stream. Even if only waiting a couple of hours for a
train, one might have an alluring stroll by going up the shaded
path on the right bank. The road above leads to quarries on the
edge of a moorland, giving views of the wooded glens and the
slopes of Dartmoor. The path below, after a mile or so, begins
to show the defects of its qualities ; but the well -shod explorer
may scramble on in about an hour (crossing a tributary brook by

THE ERME VALLEY 99

stepping-stones) to Harford Bridge, thence to Harford Church,
and so up to the moor. From Haxford it is rather over 2 miles
back to Ivy Bridge Station by road, coming down on the left bank ;
the river path on this side is private.

But the Erme might be followed to its head (about 7 m.),
whence there is a track, to be avoided in wet or foggy weather,
leading up to Princetown (p. 148) by Tor Royal, in another 6 m.
or so. About a mile north of Erme Head is the head of the Plym,
and twice as far north-east, that of the Avon, from which by the
"Sandy Way" along Holne Ridge one might strike eastwards
for 3 or 4 miles to the cultivated country about Holne, (p. 159).
We hesitate, however, in suggesting these moorland paths to
travellers who cannot take good care of themselves.

[MODBURY AND THE SOUTH HAMS

A digression south can be made to Modbury (5 miles),
connected with the rail at Ivy Bridge by a coach. On the
road is passed Ermington, to be known by the leaning
spire of its church, the restored interior of which is worth
examination. Thence a shorter cut can be taken across
the fields to Modbury (Hotels: Davids, White Hart)^
whose four streets descend as many hills, and meet in the
basin or hollow which they enclose. The Perpendicular
Church, dedicated to St. George, is remarkable for its tall
spire, rising directly from the ground to an elevation of
135 feet. The latter was rebuilt in 1621. In the interior
of the church are two effigies of the Champernownes. Of
Modbury Court, the seat of this family, there are some
remains on the westward hill. The Erme is about 2 miles
oflF, down which runs the beautiful Fleet Drive.

About as far to the west, Modbury has another railway
station at Yealmpton (p. 127), to which a branch line
runs out of Plymouth, and may some day be continued
to Modbury, but till then this venerable little town must
complain of undue neglect from the tourist. Cyclists who
turn aside will find a road (12 miles) from Modbury
through Yealmpton to Plymouth, which, in the other
direction, takes them to Kingsbridge (8 miles), and there
are beautiful byways towards the coast, as a rule more
recommendable to pedestrians than to travellers on wheels

100 EXETER TO PLYMOUTH

Of the Yealm country we shall have more to say in our
excursions from Plymouth.

The lovely mouth of the Erme can be reached by
crooked ways near its right bank, some half-dozen miles
south of Ermington. More than half way is passed
Holbeton, with its small inn. Almost opposite this is
Oldaport, on the left bank, where, above what was once a
creek, are traces of a fortified harbour believed to be
Koman. By ferry near the mouth, one might cross to
gain Modbury up that side ; or turning west, one has a
grand walk along the coast to Revelstoke, Noss, and Newton
Ferrers at the mouth of the Yealm (p. 127). For un-
encumbered pedestrians this would be the best way of
getting on to Plymouth, especially on Saturdays, when the
Memhland Drive (p. 128) is open. Both Ermington and
Holbeton are within a walk of Yealmpton Station, and
not far off the highroad mentioned above, from Modbury
through Yealmpton to Plymouth.]

The above digressions, of course, are for those who have
thrown themselves loose from our main route. The
G. W. R. line, crossing the Yealm by a lofty viaduct,
brings us to Cornwood, 2 miles beyond Ivy Bridge, another
favourite excursion point from Plymouth, where the upper
part of the Yealm valley would lead on to Dartmoor. The
village stands a mile or so above the station, its old Church,
well restored, containing some fine ornaments both ancient
and modern.

A mile behind the village the river comes down in cascades
through the beautiful wooded glen known as Awns and Dandles,
which, though in private property, is open three days a week
(Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday). Some 2 miles north-west
rises Shell Top (1546 feet), the prospect from which is one of the
most extensive on Dartmoor. To the east of this, between the
Yealm and the Erme, there are stone rows and hut circles to be
traced out.

From Cornwood (or from Ivy Bridge, 2 miles more) a road runs
over the south-west corner of the moor to Horrabridge (12 miles)
and Tavistock (16 miles). Some couple of miles south-west of
Shell Top it rises to the level of- the moor, affording a fine view
over Plymouth in the distance. Then, passing by Lee Moor Clay

PLYMPTON 101

Works, it drops slightly to Cadaford Bridge, rising and falling
again to the Meavy stream, which it crosses a little to the right
of Meavy village. Beyond Meavy it again rises to Walkhampton,
whose lofty Perpendicular church tower forms a conspicuous object
from every part of the country round. From Walkhampton
Horrabridge is reached by a by-road to the left, and Tavistock by
the main one, which crosses the picturesque Walkham valley on
the way. For the present these places are merely mentioned, as
we shall come to them later on in our excursions from Plymouth
(p. 133).

Pl3nnpton is the next station, a place that besides the
authentic honour of being the birthplace of Sir Joshua
Reynolds, takes pride in a distich plagiarised by several
west country towns which have rather come down in the
world —

" Plympton was a market town
When Plymouth was a vuzzy down."

It now seems like to become an outgrowth of Plymouth,
being surrounded by dwellings of prosperous citizens,
behind which the heights are studded by fortifications
guarding the great seaport and arsenal.

There are traces of an Augustinian Priory at Plympton St. Mary,
whose Church, near the station, is a noble old pile of the Decorated
order, with Perpendicular additions. It contains memorials of the
families of Strode and Parker, and is notable for its fine peal of
bells.

At Plympton St. Maurice or Plympton Earle, a mile south of
Plympton St. Mary, may be seen the ruins of a feudal stronghold
built by Richard de Redvers, Earl of Devon. Here Sir Joshua
Reynolds was born in 1722, and educated at the Plympton
Grammar School, of which his father was master. This school
was built 1665 in the late Tudor style, the arcade supported by
massive piers of granite.

Beautiful walks may be taken all around Plympton, though
the country is rather too much blocked up by private mansions
and grounds. Three miles to the north-east stands up Hemerdon
Ball, crowned by its clump of trees, so conspicuous from the Hoe
at Plymouth, and itself commanding a very extensive prospect.
Four miles south, through Brixton, is reached the wooded estuary
of the Yealm (p. 127). To the west lies the nearer valley of the
Plym, up which such beautiful trips are taken from Plymouth
(p. 131).

A mile beyond Plympton, the G. W. R. branch from
Tavistock and I^unceston joins the main Pue at Marsh

102 EXETER TO PLYMOUTH

Mills. Then we proceed for a mile or so along the estuary
of the Plym, fringed on its opposite side by the woods of
Saltram (p. 123), till, diverging into a shallow valley, our
train reaches successively the Mutley^ North Road, and
Millbay Stations at Plymouth.

'LV.MOUTH DISTIIICT

Lame'rton I mPK. ^^tMis^

Crocketi

^onJ

iUvistock5

DoOtn^

Merriuate Br.

Sampfbrd
'Ipinetj '
iWhittkurcl

J^orrab ridge

.Brio

■Dermz^ric

\Ha.
/Classenwetl ^uon

"Pool \ Fox Tor Head

VBu c}
\SXASf j^ C ifonaalforui

r^^\BTi

lAistoT^jfAli;^

Bickleigl.

Coknwood

[ sJ^Royal Albert \

iarford

Beechwood^

^1S'5^

CoV.

iSK4^^^^^^^,^^;^,,,5jU^==^^ Bridge

Plympton

Earlo / /^ ErmingtorA

/eef.
^ Staddon Pt.'L^^F \, ^ --^(-"SJif^p^. '^Hg

oz Pt:^^[":^<b

'Mdflymouth
''^ Sound

'enlee Pt. yealm Mouth

,<^'

>^

fwton

^ Ferrers^

voss

Pt

fi-me lAo^"-'^')^^^ BigburyS
Stoke Blgbury Bay

Bolt Tail'^

Scale of Miles

« 3 4 5 6

IVaiker erBotUallsc.

PLYMOUTH

Hotels : Royal, near the Theatre, Lockyer Street ; Gi'and, on the Hoe ; Duk^

of Cornwall, Continental,* and Albion, opposite the Millbay Station ;

Lockyer, Central,* behind the Hoe ; Farley, Union Street ; Chubb's, Old

Town Street ; Westminster Temperance, Princess Square ; Pier, near G.

W. Docks ; Royal, Thomas', in Devonport.

* Tliose marked with an asterisk, new and spacious houses, have not yet

secured a license. The Hoe Mansions (Eliot Street), is a first-class boarding.

house. The Metropole, on the Hoe, has for years been represented only by a

site.

Stations. — Millhay, now rebuilt and extended, is the Plymouth
terminus of the G. W. R. lying under the Hoe, near the chief
streets and hotels ; but the Cornwall expresses do not usually run
into this cul de sac, stopping only at North Road on the outskirts.

The Friary Station, in a rather out-of-the-way part of Plymouth,
behind Sutton Pool, is the L. & S. - W. terminus, to which it runs
in from Devonport by a circuitous route, sharing with the G. W. R.
the use of the Mutley and North Road suburban stations ; yet so that
here the two railways seem again at cross purposes as at Exeter,
their trains out of the town running in opposite directions. The
North Road Station on this line is the nearest for central points,
rather over a mile from the Hoe and the show-part of Plymouth.
The Devonport Stations of both lines might be nearer in point of
distance to the Stonehouse side, if it were not for the inlet to
be crossed by bridges.

Cab fares, as officially fixed, are low, starting at eightpence a
mile ; but the practice of Plymouth Jehus hardly squares with the
theory of the tariff. From Millbay Is., and from the North Road
or Friary Station Is. 6d. would take one handsomely to the Hoe
quarter. At night, double fares are legal.

Most of the stations are served by tram cars and omnibuses, as
indicated a little farther on, when our reader has gained an outline
of the geography of the place, made so puzzling by creeks and
peninsulas.

The Three Towns, as they entitle themselves, Plymouth,
Stonehouse, Devonport^ make practically one, though as yet the

104 PLYMOUTH

two latter have resisted all proposals of municipal incorpora-
tion with Plymouth ; Devonport being indeed so jealous of
her nominal independence that she erected a monument to
commemorate the change of name from the original belittling
appellation, Plymouth Dock. To the stranger's eye all three
run on into each other for miles along the broken banks of
the Sound, separated only by its inlets and bordering heights,
with Plymouth as the moral if not physical centre for an
idle traveller's purposes. The politician will find them
further divided into the parliamentary boroughs of Plymouth
and Devonport, each returning two members who are apt to
neutralise each other's votes. The population of the whole
group of towns and suburbs is about 200,000. Plymouth
and Devonport have much developed lately, while Stonehouse
remains rather helplessly squeezed in between them, content
to be a Petty Sessional Division of the Hundred of Roborough.
The new parts of the town will readily be distinguished from
the old quarters, cramped and mean as they often are ; and
the growth of residential suburbs on the environing heights
is a proof of prosperity. There are men still alive who can
remember cattle grazing on the site of Millbay Station, and
rooks cawing in what is now a chief thoroughfare of Plymouth.
" Every schoolboy " knows, if only from study of Captain
Marryat, that Plymouth is — we beg pardon, that Plymouth
and Devonport are — one of our chief seaports and naval
arsenals. Every schoolgirl knows how Plymouth has figured
in our marine annals, nursing old sea-dogs like Drake and
Hawkins, sending out ships to fight the French and Spaniards,
now harbouring a Mayflower freighted with the seeds of a
new world, now a Bellerophon carrying into exile the con-
queror of a continent. Any " general reader " has a vague
idea of the Hoe, where bluff Francis Drake was playing
bowls when he got news of the Armada in sight ; of the
Hard, where Polls are understood as wont to put their arms
akimbo and to speak irreverently of Port Admirals ; of the
Barbican, where so many a tar has landed with his pockets
full of prize money, soon to be emptied. Travellers know
Plymouth as a port of call for great ocean steamer lines, or
a refreshment station on the long way to Cornwall. What

PLYMOUTH 105

most strangers do not know is, that Plymouth, if they but
knew it, might be one of the pleasantest resorts on the south
coast. It is not such a resort, only because visitors so often
hurry through it, on business or pleasure, without duly con-
sidering its claims to attention. All the more room will be
found by those who have the sense to come here when Ilfra-
combe is crowded, and lodgings are not to be got at Lynton
for love or money.

We seriously declare that, in some respects, there is not
an English watering place to compare with Plymouth, which
nobody seems to think of as a watering-place. Those who
have merely passed through the town, with glimpses of the
poor streets about the railway, do not suspect that on the
Hoe, close at hand, there is the finest promenade in England,
and that this is only one of several marine esplanades and
prospects which singly would make the fortune of any
"Saturday -to- Monday ville." The front of the Hoe is
perhaps the best bathing-place on the south coast. Even
the docks here are picturesque arms of the sea. The stately
houses crowning the Hoe, and the streets of quiet dignity
sloping down behind it, could well hold up their heads to
Bath or Brighton. Here are the amusements of a large town
to draw upon ; and it is kept lively by the stir of a sea-
port and garrison ; a little too lively, perhaps, of a Saturday
night, in the main thoroughfares ; but the dweller on the
Hoe need know nought of these scenes of vulgar revelry, as
he gazes over the waters of the Sound, astir with vessels
of every rig and flag. Almost daily some great war-ship
comes in or goes out, and the taxpayer notes an alarming
waste of powder in re-echoed salutes. Besides the crews of
these visitors there is a permanent depot of tars rated on
the books of the Vivid, the Admiral's yacht ; also a
nursery of future A.Bs. schooled in the sturdy training brigs
that may be seen daily beating out round the Breakwater.
Military bands are as common as organ grinders in less
favoured towns ; here might Browning's Italian country
gentleman say indeed —

" Bang whang-iohang goes the drum ; tootle-tee-tootle the fife ;

No keeping one's haunches still : it's the greatest pleasure in life ! "

106 ^ PLYMOUTH

If one have no taste for military and naval spectacles,
Plymouth looks out over and communicates with most
delightful stretches of both sea and land scenery. Some
dozen excursion steamers are running daily in summer,
carrying crowds up the well -wooded rivers which mingle
their waters in Plymouth Sound, or along the coast of
Cornwall, and to adjacent watering-places. The railway
companies give cheap tickets, in connection with coach and
steamer services, enabling one to visit within the day most
of the famous beauty spots on this side of Devon. There
are lovely country walks close at hand. We had almost
forgotten to mention the boating, almost as much a matter
of course here as cabbing, since the amphibious configuration
of the place makes it in parts a kind of deep-water Venice.
Weather is an important consideration for a pleasure resort ;
and those who love Plymouth no better than they know it,
say it is always raining there. Certainly, with the rest of
this south-west corner, it shares a good deal of moisture ;
nor can its warmest advocate call it bracing as a rule. But
some of us like this mild soft air, and rather prefer rain to
dust, especially as knowing that, when the rain is over, the
sky will be all the clearer. Here is a statement to amaze
those who accept the wide-spread scandal of South Devon
being always wrapt in clouds. In a ten-years' record of
the Meteorological Society, Plymouth stood bracketed with
Dublin and Southbourne, these three taking the third place
for winter sunshine, outshone only by Jersey and Falmouth
in the British Isles. In summer Plymouth is seldom
without cooling breezes ; and, as it is no fashionable r ort
either in winter or summer, accommodations are ^ ot ex-
travagantly dear at any season, while lodgings ca- readily
be found in a town so often called upon to harb^u^ arrivals
from abroad. We believe, then, that many holiday-makers
might come to thank us for the suggest? jn that they
should encamp at Plymouth, using it as a base from
which to reconnoitre the surrounding district, one of
the finest in England ; and we are glad to know that
not a few have followed our advice on this point without
regretting it.

T H S O II :f^ 1)

JB artkolomewE 3itiT

THE HOE 1071

THE TOWN OF PLYMOUTH

Let us now take a look round Plymoutli, beginning with
the Hoe, at once its Piccadilly and its Champs Elys^es. This
is a green hill lying between the sea and the busiest part
of the town, one end of it occupied by a block of mansions,
including the Grand Hotel and the Royal "Western Yacht
Club. About it are the other chief clubs — the Plymouth
Club, the South- Western Ydcht Club, and the Corinthian
Yacht Club. The slopes on both sides are laid out as a
public park, which wants nothing but shade and brightening
by a few more flower beds such as are found in one bit of
garden at the Citadel end. Along the top runs an asphalted
promenade, some half mile long and unusually broad, from
which the views, both landward and seaward, are unrivalled,
on one hand stretching over the suburbs to the outline of
Dartmoor, on the other looking across Plymouth Sound
with its winding shores and creeks. Any novelist of the
new school, who cared to lay his scene here, might find
matter for pages of glowing description ; we can only advise
the reader to come and see for himself what a mistaken idea
he may have of Plymouth as all barracks and slop-shops.
Enough to say that Brighton and Eastbourne might well
give the best of their esplanades and pavilions for this airy
park, conspicuously ornamented by Boehm's statue of Sir
Francis Drake, by the new National Armada Monument, and
by the old Eddystone Lighthouse, transplanted here to end
its days on dry land, as a venerable spectacle and view
tower. In the centre of the seaward slope is a stately
curved shelter known as the Bull Ring ; above is a spacious
terrace, behind which the park opens out towards the town ;
and everywhere seats and grassy ledges invite the holiday
groups, who on a fine Sunday afternoon swarm here without
crowding. Below projects the Promenade Pier, with its
landing stages, from which most of the excursion steamers
start, and its roomy pavilion for varied entertainments.
Plymouth's sea front is nearly all pier, in a sense ; but this,
let it be remembered in our indications, is the Pier, not very

108 , PLYMOUTH

much of a pier as such structures go, but an important
feature in the pleasure-life of the place.

Bathing. — A winding sea-road edges the Hoe, the shore in front
of which is, by nature and art, excellently laid out for bathing.
Swimmers, indeed, have the best of it ; the sheltered basin under
the Eddystone Tower being reserved for ladies. The space between
this and the pier is an amphitheatre of steps and jetties, from
which every morning, as early as April sometimes, and as late as
October, swarms of gymnasts may be seen plunging into clear
depths and giving natatory displays very visible for those who
care to look over the wall, at an hour when most passers-by have
their own business to mind. Accomplished swimmers may
prefer the end of the pier, where they can dress under its shelters ;
but the rocks also have covered dressing- pi aces and causeways for
going down into the water at almost any state of the tide. For
beginners there are two strips of beach and rock, one to the right
of the pier, that can be used in the morning ; the other beyond
the ladies' bathing -place, under a cliff, which hides the local
Actseons from promenading Dianas, so is available all day.
Farther along, under the Aquarium, there is yet another haunt of
swimmers, with steps and stone dressing pavilion ; and the rocks
beyond are also pressed into service by unblushing urchins.
Divers of a more retiring disposition would usually find the Break-
water very much at their service.

To have done with this head of information, it may be said that
there are similarly prepared bathing-coves for both sexes : on the
esplanade in front of Stonehouse (reached by passing round the
G. W. Docks and past the Marine Barracks) ; then for Devonport,
another under Mount Wise, apt on hot afternoons to be occupied
in force by the youngsters of H.M. training ships, who use their
brilliant pocket-handkerchiefs for all purposes of bath toilet.
The prosaic vulgarity of a bathing-machine seems as unknown here
as unnecessary.

Hitherto the water about the Hoe has lain under a suspicion of
being contaminated by sewage ; but new drainage works are now
being undertaken to carry the town's refuse out to sea. Good
bathing can be found at Barnpool, and other points of the opposite
shore.

One serious want we have to note in Plymouth is a good
establishment of Baths, a matter which should be seen to by the
Corporation.

The Hoe occupies a promontory, cut off on the right by
Millbay, where are the Great Western docks, and on the
other side by Sutton Pool, which serves the same purpose
for the rival London and South-Western Company. From

THE CITADEL 109

Millbay Station the sea front is soon reached by following
the tram line along the wall of the docks, or by striking
straight up behind the Duke of Cornwall Hotel, and taking
any turn to the right to come out on the promenade along
the top. The further end of the Hoe is occupied by the
Citadel, built in the reign of Charles II. as a significant
hint to a town which had taken the parliamentary side in
his father's war. If the Sound were not well defended by
a chain of forts, armed with guns of the heaviest calibre,
our up-to-date enemies might laugh at this obsolete strong-
hold, which, however, has an old-fashioned dignity of its own.
The prospect from the ramparts, measuring about a mile in
circuit, is more effective than they would probably be against
a Japanese fleet. The entrance is by an elaborate classical
gateway at the north end, facing the town, into the heart of
which we might here descend at once, but will rather take
our reader round by the sea-wall outside of the fortifications,
where carriages, however, will be brought to a stand at the
corner of the inlet. Below the Citadel, on the sea side,
where the Hoe is continued by terraced walks, will be seen
the Aquarium and Laboratory of the Marine Biological
Association, the former open at a small charge.

The road round the Citadel ends in a passage and stair-
way, closed at night, leading through to a somewhat un-
attractive part of the town by which we emerge on the
Barbican, a lively scene of quays, fish market, boat landings
ferry steamers, and other features of business. A flagstone
here inscribed Mayjlower, 1620, and a wall -tablet com-
memorate the embarkation, or rather re-embarkation, of the
Pilgrim Fathers. Within lies Sutton Pool, crowded with
small craft ; and near at hand are the Custom House and
the Exchange. We are here at the oldest part of the town,
where some weather-worn houses are to be seen that may
have had Drake for a visitor. The old Blackfriars Monastery
is now desecrated as a distillery of Plymouth Gin. Passing
through some streets characteristic of the east-end waterside
of Plymouth, we soon come to the line of main thoroughfares,
off which stands its main architectural pride, a fine group
of public buildings including the Guildhall and Law Courts

110 • PLYMOUTH

on two sides of a quadrangle, at the ends of which are the
Post Office and St. Andrew's Church. Though architectural
purists find some fault here, as usual, it must be admitted
that hardly another of our provincial towns has such an
imposing centre. The buildings are in general style Early
English, the most striking feature being the Tower (160
feet), which will guide us hither from almost any part of
the town. The public are admitted to the top for a view
of Plymouth, which, however, is better seen from more
commanding situations.

The Southern or Guildhall block, 202 feet in length by 90 feet,
has in the centre the Great Rail (to which the public are admitted),
the most ornamental portion of the whole building. Over the
main entrance is a carved group of Fame, Industry, and Virtue,
and over the lower entrance Justice between Truth and Mercy.
On the left side of the entrance are panels representing re-
spectively Painting, Music, Sculpture, War, Peace, and Religion,
and on the right side Architecture, Astronomy, Mechanics, Com-
merce, Plenty, and Law. From the centre of the roof rises a light
and elegant spire. The interior is 146 feet by 68, and will seat
about 3000 persons. The popular Saturday evening concerts here
are of a high class, though admission is gratis or at an almost
nominal charge. The orchestra has a very fine organ. The large
windows, seven on each side, are filled with stained glass re-
presenting historical events connected with the town, notably that
famous game of bowls on the Hoe, which Sir Francis Drake played
out as if to show there need be no hurry in tackling the Armada.
One design boldly presents his present Majesty in the prosaic dress
of the 19th century. Behind the Magistrates' Court to the east
are the Police Offices. The Law Courts on the west are spacious
and remarkably well planned. The gables of the southern block
of buildings are each crowned with statues of sovereigns or other
notabilities.

The Northern block, 207^ feet by 66^, comprising the Council
Chamber and Municipal Offices, displays rather plainer architecture
than the southern. The Chamber is lit by stained-glass windows,
with medallion portraits of Queen Elizabeth, Queen Victoria,
Sir Walter Raleigh, and Sir Francis Drake. On the walls are
portraits of Charles XL, James II., George II., George III.,
William IV., etc. In the mayor's parlour there are a portrait of
Queen Anne and a contemporary portrait of Sir Francis Drake,
1594. A tower, 95 feet high, crowns one corner of the main
entrance. On the gable end of the Council Chamber stands a
life-size statue of Drake, who is evidently the hero of Plymouth.

The Post Office faces the west end of the Guildhall.

CHURCHES 111

The old Parish Church is at the east end of the block,
having in front of it a tall cross erected as a comprehensive
monument to the parishioners buried below what is now a
scene of bustle. Behind, on the south-east side, at the corner
of Finewell Street, are some buildings of an Abbey ; and by
keeping down this street into Notte Street, one finds other
relics of old Plymouth.

St. Andrew's Church is a Perpendicular building, commenced
in the 15th century. The massive tower, battlemented and
pinnacled, was restored in 1871. The body of the Church consists
of a nave and two aisles of unusual length, so as to enclose the
chancel, each with an east window. The interior was restored in
1874-75 by Sir Gilbert Scott. It is remarkable for the large area,
and contains, amongst other objects of interest, a richly-orna-
mented stone pulpit, a handsome octagonal font, a reredos with
painted panels, and a finely-carved oak lectern. The roof is
waggon shaped. There are several modern stained windows,
and many monuments, amongst them a fine bust of a former vicar,
Zachary Mudge, by Chantrey (east end of south aisle) on the walls,
and a poetical tribute to Charles Matthews (south aisle) the elder,
who died at Plymouth in 1835 ; also several quaint epitaphs.
The tower contains a carillon of ten bells which chime every four
hours. The musical part of the services is worthy of this fine
church.

Charles Church, or the "New Church," lies not far off at the
back of Sutton Pool, where services of a plainer type seem accept-
able. This is a rare and on the whole surprisingly successful
example of Gothic architecture produced during the middle of the
17th century. It contains nave, chancel, and aisles, surmounted
by a tower and spire at the west end. The spire is more than a
century later than the body of the Church.

Plymouth has other handsome Churches and Chapels, of which
the most remarkable is the Roman Catholic Cathedral in Cecil
Street, with a fine spire prominent towards the back of the town.

The Markets are somewhat hidden away behind Bedford
Street on the north side of the Guildhall. Close to them,
the Plymouth Public and Cottonian Library (open on
Mondays, other days special application necessary) in
Cornwall Street, has a valuable collection of works of the
old masters, including Leonardo da Vinci, Rembrandt,
Rubens, Claude Lorraine, Vandyck, etc., presented by Mr.
Cotton, F.R.S. The old Guildhall, Whimple Street, is

112 PLYMOUTH

occupied by the Free Library and Reading Room^ which
offers special privileges to strangers, and has a separate
reading-room for ladies.

From Bedford Street we pass by George Street to the Clock
Tower, which may be considered the Charing Cross of Ply-
mouth. Here stands an Ionic block of public buildings,
including the Theatre Royal and the Royal Hotel. Further
along towards the Millhay station, which ends this line of
thoroughfares, on the left will be seen the Athenceum, also
in the Grecian style of architecture, but of the Doric order,
the home of the Plymouth Institution and the Devon and
Gornwall Natural History Society, containing a Museum of
local archaeology, open at a small charge. Athenceum Street,
turning up here by a crescent, or Lockyer Street, passing in
front of the Royal Hotel, would lead straight on to
the Hoe.

From the other side of the Clock Tower turns down
Union Street, in which are the Palace Music Hall and other
places of entertainment. By the railway arch crossing Union
Street one can pass, on the left, into Millbay station. A
little farther on comes the Octagon, relic of a day when
it made a more genteel quarter of Plymouth, this now being
the main artery of communication between Plymouth and
Devonport, much frequented of an evening by Mr. T.
Atkins, his naval comrades, and their friends.

From the Clock start also (going round by Princess
Square and the Post Office, not to obstruct the narrow main
thoroughfare) Electric Trams for Gompton, Mutley, and other
elevated quarters at the back of the town (p. 1 1 7).

The tram marked Prince Rock, taking at first the same
line, leads to the east suburbs, passing by Friary Station.
Opposite this station is Beaumont Park, where a mansion
temporarily houses the Town Museum and Art Gallery, for
which new quarters are being built beside the Technical
School in the Tavistock Road, a main line leading north-
wards.

A little way above the Beaumont Park, the Freedom
Field, scene of a stubborn fight in the Civil War, makes
another public pleasure ground, commanding good views.

MILLBAY AND THE POOL 113

STONEHOUSE AND DEVONPORT^

Stonehouse lies upon the promontory shutting in Mill-
hay, at the head of which are the Great Western Docks.
From the Hoe the shortest way across is round the Docks
(admission Id.) Behind runs the Millhay Road (turn down
under the bridge beyond Millbay Station) leading through a
not very attractive quarter, with some quaint nooks and
corners hidden away among its huge institutions. The
Marine Barracks are at the farther end, beyond which, so
obscure are its approaches, strangers often neglect to pass
round the fine sea walk skirting the promontory between
Redoubts known as the Eastern and the Western King, with
a look-out over the narrowest part of the Sound upon Mou7it
Edgcumbe opposite.

Coming through the Docks one mounts up by the Long Eoo^n,
once am assembly room, and the Marine Infirmary, also to be gained
by passing round the Barracks, where they face into Dumford
Street. Keep as near the sea as you can and go boldly on, heed-
less of sentries and cannon, that will let you pass unchallenged
over a low height to the east end of the esplanade, winding round
the bay before the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe's Winter Villa,
where you must turn off to get out of Stonehouse along the side
of the Fool, known at the upper end as Mill Lake, the long inlet
cutting off Devonport.

One may walk on, however, a little farther upon the point, the
outer side of which is occupied by The Royal Victualling Yard
{admission on application to the police at the entrance). Vast
excavations had to be made before the building was commenced,
which consists of large quadrangular blocks, covering with the
courts an area of 15 acres. It is approached by a street leading
from the east end of Stonehouse Bridge, and entered through a
handsome gateway, surmounted by a statue of William IV. The
most interesting operation in the Yard is the process of biscuit-
making.

The walk round this promontory may be gained at the
west end from Dumford Street, skirting the Pool, where, at
Admiral's Hard, is the ferry for Cremill and Mount Edg-
cumbe. Then comes St. Georges Church, beyond which we
reach the Bridge crossing to Devonport. The Royal Naval
Hospital looks over the water to the north of the Bridge,

8

114 ^ PLYMOUTH

facing the Royal Military Hospital on the Devonport side.
The head of the inlet beyond is being filled in ; and it is
proposed to form here a Public Recreation Ground for the
three towns.

Unless taking a long way round this creek, we must
gain Devonport by ferry from Admiral's Hard, or by
paying a halfpenny at the Bridge, which the tramway
crosses, at once to thread its way among fortifications and
places of arms. The town occupies a promontory, the
sea face of which is much shut in by the Dockyard
buildings ; but Devonport has no want of amenities. The
walks and terraces of Mount Wise, reached through a park
to the left, make a pleasure ground only inferior to the
Hoe, and with nearer views of the Mount Edgcumbe shore.
Below this the Richmond Walk runs along the shore by
AdmiraVs Stairs to Mutton Gove. Above are the Port
Admiral's and the General's official residences. The other
side of the town is enclosed by an open belt known as the
Ordnance Land or the Brick Fields, where military displays
may be seen every Monday forenoon and on special occasions.
Beyond the huge Raglan Barracks and the L. & S.-W. station,
this recreation ground is continued by a park commanding
fine views, on the other side of which again lies the growing
suburb of Stoke, running into Morice Town, the new quarter
behind the Keyham Steam Yard.

There are some picturesque nooks in Devonport, as the
houses on the Gun Wharf, 200 years old and overgrown
with creepers. There is much also that looks new and
business-like. Part of the town is laid out in square blocks,
on the American plan ; and the streets on the whole are
not so grimy and crooked as those of Plymouth. Cumberland
Street and Fore Street, to which the tramway takes us, are
the main thoroughfares ; and hereabouts stand the chief
public buildings — the Post Office, in Fore Street ; the Free
Public Library J- the Public Hall TJieatre, at the junction of
Fore Street with Princess Street ; the highly classical Town
Hall in Fore Street ; and the Golumn, a Doric pillar of
Devonshire granite, more than 100 feet in height, built
at a cost of £2750 on a solid mass of rock, to commemorate

THE DOCKS 115

the change in the name of the town from Plymouth Dock
to Devonport.

None of the churches of Devonport calls for special
remark, unless it be the old Parish Church of Stoke Damerelj
close to the Military Hospital. This, however, has nothing
left of its original self except the tower.

To strangers the chief object of interest is, of course,
the Dockyard (admission at 10 and 11 a.m., and at 2, 3,
and 4 p.m.)

A naval arsenal was established here in 1689, but it began to
assume its present proportions only in 1761. From that date
the growth of Plymouth Dockyard has been rapid, and it is now
one of the most important establishments in the kingdom.

The entrance is at the end of Fore Street, whence we pass into
a wide open court bounded on each side by buildings ; amongst
them, the Admiral-superintendent's house, the chapel, the guard-
house, pay office, and surgery. Under the guidance of the
metropolitan police (in charge of all our naval arsenals) parties
are taken round at the above hours, no "tip" being expected by
their personal conductor, but a small gratuity may be left for
division among the force. Here are to be seen cruisers of the
newest pattern, and perhaps other monsters of the deep which a
quarter of a century ago were the pride of our navy, now being
done up to take a back place in the reserve ; also steam-hammers
that can crack a coco-nut or knock into shape a mass of many
tons ; sheets of steel brought to be drilled or cut like a sheet of
paper ; the figure-heads of old ships, and many other wonders and
curiosities.

The measurements of the Docks are : —

I. The Jive Docks —

1. New Union, built in 1762

2. New North, built in 1789

3. South Dock, built by William III.,

and since enlarged

4. ITead Dock, built by George III. .

5. Stem Dock ,,
(?raw?i5' >S'%, adjoining the Camber 169 69

II. The Chain Cable Storehouse, built in 1844-48, cost nearly
£40,000. About 650 chain cables are generally kept here, ready
for immediate service.

The Anchor Smithery fronts the Anchor "Wharf, and is 210 feet
square. Forty-eight forges and Nasmyth's steam-hammer combine

Feet

Feet

Feet

'ong.

broad.

deep.

239

56

26

272

56

27

261

65

28

223

52

26

192

52

26

116 PLYMOUTH

to produce a scene which, for clash, clangour, and lurid glare,
recalls to the imagination a Cyclopean pandemonium.

III. The Rope House is built of iron ; the Spinning House of
limestone, three stories high, and each 1200 feet in length ; the
Rigging Houses are two ranges of sheds 480 feet long, forming
one side of a quadrangle, while the other sides are occupied with
storehouses. The Camber, a canal 70 feet long, and spanned by
an iron swing-bridge, communicates with the Boat Pond. There
are, besides, mast-houses, timber-basins, timber-sheds, saw-pits,
building-slips, reservoirs, smithies, mould or model-lofts, some of
which are not thrown open to the public.

IV. A neat gravel path winds up to a small mound, King's
Hill, whose summit is crowned by a pavilion, and commands a line
view.

V. Keyham Steam Yard, connected with the Dockyard by a
tunnel 900 yards in length, occupies a sort of peninsula between
Keyham Lake, Hamoaze, and Moon's Cove. The entrance is from
Morice Town (so named from Sir William Morice, who purchased
it in 1667). Huge basins have here been added for the accommoda-
tion of our modern leviathans.

YI. Between the Dockyard and Keyham lies the Gun Wharf,
occupying five acres of ground. In the Storehouses are all kinds
of arms, and in the open spaces between stand methodically arranged
pyramids of cannon balls, gun-carriages of various shapes, and
rows of polished cannons.

Devon port is enclosed by a line of fortifications, with a ditch
12 feet to 20 feet deep, excavated from the solid limestone. There
are Three Gates — the Stonehouse Gate, leading to Plymouth, the
Stoke Barrier towards Tavistock, and the North Barrier, opening
on the Tamar. The King's Interior Boundary Wall is 12 feet
high ; the Blockhouse, with its ramparts and ditches, occupies
an elevated position in Higher Stoke.

Devonport has a system of electric trams of its own,
which seems not yet complete or finally connected. One
line starts from the Royal Albert Hospital, running by the
Dockyard towards Saltash. Another from Fore Street would
take us round by the back of Plymouth, at the head of
the deepest inlet, reaching North Road, whence one can
descend into the central quarter.

Ferries. — The three towns being so much cut up by arms of
the sea, their communications are much dependent upon ferries,
both small boats and steamers, of which the principal ones may
be mentioned.

From the Barbican, steamers run across the Catwater every
half-hour to Turnchapel and Oreston ; and every ten minutes to
Mount Batten.

ENVIRONS OF PLYMOUTH ll7

Every hour (leaving at the half-hours) from AdmiraVs Hard
to Cremill for Mount Edgcurabe ; and from the same point
frequently to Mount Wise, Devonport.

The Devon and Cornwall shores are also connected by boats
from Mutton Cove to Cremill and to Millbrook ; from Morice Tovm
to Torpoint ; and at Saltash.

For Saltash, a steamer leaves North Corner, Devonport, at the
half-hours, returning at the hours ; and less frequently from the
Hoe Pier.

A Steam Ferry Bridge plies between the Dockyard and Tor
Point, on the Cornish shore.

The fare for most of these ferries is a matter of coppers. The
"Watermen's fares for small boats make a question rather too large
and elastic to be comprised here. They begin at 3d. for a single
passenger crossing the Catwater, and at Is. an hour, an increase
being reasonably expected in rough weather, and never unexpected
in any state of wind or tide.

ENVIRONS OF PLYMOUTH

The heights behind offer several view points that give
an idea of the country close at hand. For example, one
might take the tram, or follow its rails, uphill to the
Gompton and Mannamead suburbs. From the stopping-
place at Compton Lane, Lane End, one keeps on a little way
to the top of the hill, where, on the right, the Hartley
Pleasure Ground^ laid out beside a Reservoir, looks over the
outskirts of the town to a stretch of Dartmoor. Lower
down on this route would have been passed another basin of
the Plymouth water-supply, first brought by Sir F. Drake
from the moor (p. 132). This is the high road to Dartmoor,
a mile or so out on which is reached the village-suburb now
entitled Grown Hill, but once better known as Knacker's
Knoll. Here roads diverge, left, to St. Budeaux and Tamerton
Foliott (p. 124) ; and on the other side go off winding ways to
the Plym Valley, reached at Marsh Mills (p. 123) in an hour
or so's walk by the pleasant village of Egg BucUand.

In the fine season conveyances from the Clock Tower
make excursions to various points of the vicinity.

Plymouth Sound. — Having surveyed Plymouth by land,
we will now take to the water, aflPording such grand sea-
scapes, which one is in danger of half forgetting on shores

118 ^ PLYMOUTH

occupied by a great town. Plymouth Sound has reminded
travellers of Sydney Harbour, which in these days of globe
trotting seems to have supplanted the Bay of Naples as a
standard of beauty in such scenes. With its puzzling
maze of inlets it may be roughly compared, in arrangement
if not in proportions, to a hand with outstretched fingers, the
palm represented by the harbour itself. The thumb, then,
is the Catwater, curved deeply in between Mount Batten and
Gatdown, receiving the estuary of the Plym, w-hich here loses
its name in that of the Laira. The forefinger points to
Sutton Pool, its extreme points named " Bear's Head " and
"Fisher's Nose." The second finger indicates Millhay,
lying between the Hoe and Stonehouse, whose head forms
the Great Western Docks. The third finger points up the
far-reaching creek already spoken of as Stonehouse Lake or
the Pool, which divides Stonehouse from Devonport. The
little finger, which ought to be the largest, stands for the
anchorage of Hamoaze, formed by the estuary of the Tamar,
whose east bank is for some distance taken up by the Koyal
Dockyard, Gun Wharf, and Steam Yard. Beyond the latter
Keyham Lake runs inland. On the opposite side the shore
is deeply indented by Millbrook, St. John's Lake, and other
creeks, then below Saltash by the estuary of the St. Germans
or Lynher river, itself branching off into numerous arms.
Above Saltash unite the waters of the Tamar and the Tavy.

Off the Hoe lies the low fort-crowned island of St. Nicholas,
commonly known as Drake's Island. The island, with its
fortifications, was held by the Parliamentarians during the Civil
War, though on two occasions nearly betrayed into Royalist hands ;
and after the Restoration it became a state prison, in which,
amongst others, General Lambert was kept captive till his death.
Its formidable defensive works are of great importance, as com-
manding the entrance to the Sound. It is about 3 acres in extent,
connected with the Cornwall shore by a range of low rocks, called
the Bridge, impassable even at high water, except for the smallest
and lightest craft, and sometimes at low tides so dry that the
island almost loses its character. Civilians, we fancy, are not
encouraged to visit this place of arms, except on business, else we
should recommend its views of the Sound.

Some two miles down the Sound is seen the low mass of the
Breakwater. It also is insulated, having on either hand a good

PLYMOUTH SOUND 119

channel, which admits the egress or ingress of the largest ships at
any time of the tide. Between its wall and the north shore forty-
sail of the line, besides smaller vessels, can ride in safety. It was
commenced in 1812, under the direction of Rennie, and for thirty-
four years took the daily labour of 200 men. About 4,000,000
tons of granite were used at a cost of a million and a half. Its
length in the centre is 1000 yards, with two arms, 350 yards long,
which trend towards the north. The width at the base varies
from 300 to 400 feet, narrowing to 45 feet at the top ; the depth
from 80 to 40 feet, according to the inequalities of its foundation ;
and at high spring-tides it rises but two or three feet above the
sea. The Lighthouse, at the west end, of white granite, 55 feet
high, and 114 feet diameter at its base, was constructed in 1841.
At the east end stands a beacon, with a hollow globe for the
shelter of shipwrecked seamen. One can walk along the top when
the waves are not too boisterous. The Breakwater may be visited
by boat, and is a favourite point for short steamboat trips.

Near the extremities of the Breakwater are on opposite sides
Bovisand Fort, a recent erection of immense strength, and
Picklecombe Fort ; and half-way between, the Breakwater Fort —
the three together making a formidable line of defence for the
protection of the port.

Mount Edgcumbe. — The grounds of Lord Mount
Edgcumbe's famous seat on the Cornwall shore are the
chief lion of the neighbourhood, and justly so, for it is hard
to say whether the view of them from Plymouth, or the
view of Plymouth from their wooded heights, be the more
beautiful. They are thrown open to the public once a week,
as a rule on Wednesdays, changed to the first Saturday in
each month for the convenience of the Dockyard people.
On other days a special order must be obtained at the Manor
House office near Admiral's Hard. The regular ferry leaves
Admiral's Hard at the half-hours, and returns at the hours.
The park gate is close to the landing-place at Cremill, to
which, on the public day, a steamer runs from the Hoe pier
also ; and small boats can be taken from Devonport.

Mount Edgcumbe forms the end of a promontory, 4 to 5
miles in length, and 3 miles in breadth. The Mansion, a
castellated Tudor building, dates from 1550. The Hall, in
the centre of the building, rises to the second story, and is
adorned \vith Doric columns and pilasters of Devonshire
marble. The pictures are chiefly family portraits, and
include four by Sir Peter Lely. There are also four by Sir

120 PLYMOUTH

Joshua Reynolds. Visitors are not admitted to the house,
nor without special order to the gardens — English, French,
and Italian, embellished with fountains, vases, busts, and
statues.

The outer grounds are extensive enough to take up a whole after-
noon in wandering through their beauties, with charming views at
every point, especially from the south side. Going up the avenue,
turn across the front of the house, and from its south side follow a
walk which leads past a ruin on a knoll, then in the hollow below,
near the edge of the sea, will be seen Beechwood Cottage, one of
several places where tea can be had. The road holding up behind
this leads through a gate and arch into Laurel Walk, a magnificent
terrace of evergreens winding high above the sea, which makes
the finest part of the whole demesne. Coming thus round to
PicMecomhe Fort, one can pass behind it and descend to Cawsand,
or strike up on the right for Maker Church, and the highest point,
then come round the other side of the park, with views up the
estuary. H.M. Queen Victoria, in her published diary, gives
warm praise to this Cornish paradise, on which the Duke of
Medina-Sidonia is said to have fixed as his share of the spoil after
that expected conquest by the Invincible Armada under his
command, but had to go without, like Napoleon, who also, on his
way to exile, viewed with envy such a charming retreat. Un-
fortunately, great mischief was done to these fine woods by the
ruinous blizzard that so much amazed Devonshire in the spring of
1891.

On the upper edge of the grounds stands Maker Church, with
its Mount Edgcumbe family monuments, from the tower or
churchyard of which there is another extensive view. The Lych
Gate is noticeable and the old Font within. Past the Church, our
walk may be extended to the little seaside resorts of Eingsand and
Cawsand, 2^ miles from Creraill, and further, to Penlee Point and
Rame Head. Kingsand and Cawsand are parts of a quaint and
picturesque little village, with narrow winding streets, on the
deep bay between Penlee Point and Picklecombe Point. A joyful
sight has Cawsand Bay been to many an English tar returning
from foreign shores. Rame Head has on its summit the ruins of
a little Chapel, and commands a view of the coast extending to
the Lizard, including the Eddystoue Lighthouse. All these places
are in Cornwall, into which we must trespass more than once on
our excursions from Plymouth.

Millbrook, Cawsand, St. John's Lake, etc. — Even if the Mount
Edgcumbe grounds be not open, a pleasant walk may be taken
round them to Cawsand, for which brakes run from the ferry
several times a day. As we follow the road, skirting the park, a

THE CORNISH SHORE 121

path soon turns off to the right through the exercise-ground of the
Training Ship boys, where an obelisk stands on a hillock as sea-
mark. This path leads to the Steward's house, by the wooded
edge of Millbrook Inlet, with an outlook over the Hamoaze ; and
it might be continued all the way up to 31illhrook, an economical
residence for dockyard people, retired skippers, and the families
of such, from which there is a road (1^ m.) across to the coast at
Whitesand Bay, and a rather longer one to Cawsand. The path
behind the Steward's house, however, leads us up again to the high
road from Cremill, which, looking back over the docks, we ascend for
about a mile to Maker Church at the top, where opens the view
on the other side of the promontory. A gate in the wall of the
field before the church shows a footpath leading down to
PicMecoTTibe and Cawsand ; or the road carries us on to these and
the other places mentioned above, and beyond Bxime Head, to
Whitesand. Bay (where bathing requires caution) along which we
might make a further round 3 or 4 miles to Tregantle Fort, to
return by Antony and the ferry at Tor Point. Thus we should have
seen nearly all the peninsula between the Lynher river and the
open sea, where already we begin to get a hint of some of the
characteristic Cornish features.

Another agreeable Cornish ramble of half a dozen miles would
be by turning right from Millbrook to the village of St. John's,
then round the St. John's Lake to Tor Point.

Saltash, on the Cornish side, 4 miles above Plymouth, may
be reached by G. W. rail or the road through Devonport ;
but on fine days the pleasanter way is by steamer up the
Hamoaze (pronounced Hamoze\ the principal anchorage for
ships of war stationed at Plymouth, where costly leviathans
of the latest pattern contrast with the tall hulls and square
port-holes of the obsolete training ships. Beyond the Dock-
yards this thronged road widens out into an inlet on either
hand, that to the left the mouth of the Lynher River, skirted
by the grounds of Anthony House; then we come into view
of the Royal Albert Bridge at Saltash, one of Brunei's
greatest conceptions.

Its length is 2240 feet ; its breadth 30 feet ; from its foundations
to its summit it rises 260 feet, sufficient to clear a man-of-war with
all her canvas set. It consists of 19 spans, each of double chains
composed of 15 bars ; the two central spans, resting upon a main
central pillar driven into the solid rock through 70 feet of sea and
20 feet of soil, extend 900 feet. The lower span carries the rail-
way ; the upper, of wrought iron, is firmly attached to it. The
main piers, on each side of the river, are 11 feet square, of solid

122 ^ PLYMOUTH

masonry, and 190 feet from base to crown. 2700 tons of wrought
iron, 1300 tons of cast-iron, 14,000 cubic yards of timber, and
17,000 cubic yards of stone, were employed in the erection of this
bridge, which has now had its nose put rather out of joint by the
still more wonderful engineering feat of spanning the Forth. For
permission to inspect the bridge apply to the station-master.

There is not much else to see at Saltash ; but from the
pier we may go up past the church to the old quarter of St.
Stephen^ s, where St. Stephen^ s Mount gives a good view over
the Tamar. It is reached by the main street, with a turn
to the right after passing the Green Dragon Inn.

Round the head of a little creek behind St. Stephen's (2 m. ),
or by ferry, we can visit Trematon Castle, an ivy -draped ruin
among woods. Several interesting features survive of this strong-
hold dating almost back to the Conquest ; but the materials
have in part been used for a modern mansion. The grounds
are, or used to be, open on Wednesdays.

Hence a ferry will take us across the Lynher to East Anthony.
The mansion, built for Sir. W. Carew in 1721, contains fine
pictures by Holhein, VandycJc, Lely, Reynolds^ and other masters ;
it is now the seat of Sir R. Pole- Carew, one of our South African
heroes. (For permission to view, in absence of the owner, apply
to the steward at Wilcove Farm, Tor Point.) The wooded grounds
also are admirable. The Church is an ancient building, its site
excavated on a steep hillside, the churchyard preserving a pair
of stocks as a curiosity. The road past Thankes, situated on a
wooded slope overlooking the Hamoaze, leads to Tor Point, one
of the main ferries between Cornwall and Devon, where we can
return to Plymouth by Devonport. The steam bridge leaves the
Devon side half-hourly at the quarters, returning at the half-hours.

Saltram and the Plym. — To the other side of Plymouth,
on the left bank of the Plym estuary, known as the Laira,
where it opens into the Catwater, stretch the Earl of Morley's
grounds at Saltram, reached by Laira Bridge^ some mile
and a half from the centre of the town. The Prince Bock
tramway takes us almost to this bridge, on which, and on
the embankment leading to it, two small tolls have to be
paid successively by the surprised stranger. Beyond is the
quarrying village of Laira, with an inn, where one turns up
the water to the left, almost at once entering the grounds.

This point is to be reached also by taking the Barbican
half-hourly ferry to the higgledy-piggledy village of Oreston,

w

HF

i*Er"f^-'imm • [

' im

^^ -

JL

BSm

m

»?lh~- . .

JL

i*- 4

I'l ■ •■ ■

,^-J

rTJ

1./ '

w ^

lll^:

^^^^—51

ft)ti

' V^H

M ^ W

^'^^■ri'J

' fl

m

r^'

:er

^^i^^H

jKk«M

K^

p

^K^^'^^^JI

1

'■ - ■- - , ■

ACROSS THE PLTM 123

among the limestone quarries, which is not far below Laira
Bridge, but an intervening creek obliges one to go a mile
round (by a lane turning to the left past the Post Office),
unless the way were made out more directly through the
labyrinth of quarried cliffs. In a cave of the quarries, 35
feet below the ground, bones and teeth of elephants, hyaenas,
tigers, and other beasts of prey, and the jaw of a horse en-
crusted with stalagmite have been found.

The grounds of Saltram are finely wooded, and the house
is a handsome structure, containing many treasures of art
by famous masters, with an enumeration of which we will
not tantalise the reader, since they are not open to the
public. The gallery was formed by the advice of Sir Joshua
Keynolds, and includes one of the best collections of his own
works.

The Park is free to visitors so long as they keep on the drives.
The Race Course of Plymouth is in the grounds near the river
entrance. An agreeable walk, at first open, then entering a wood,
skirts the side of the estuary, which looks so well at full tide from
the railway opposite. At Marsh Mills (G. W. R. station, p. 131),
the head of the creek, boats may be hired when the tide is iu.
Beyond this point the Plym becomes a beautiful inland stream,
buried in rich woods, up which one may ramble for several miles,
or mount the heights on the right to Leemoor, from which the
pedestrian could come down to take train at Plympton or at Corn-
wood (pp. 100, 101).

Mount Batten will be seen across the mouth of the
Catwater, inviting a trip to it by the ferry, then a walk over
it and along the Staddon Heights, that look down on the
Breakwater. Red flags will give warning when and where
there is danger from military rifle practice. This is a cliflf
walk too little known to strangers, and which too much
gives up to barracks and forts what was meant for mankind.
It continues for miles past the pier at Bovisand Bay, where
the ships of the navy take in water from a large reservoir ;
then one might follow the coast by Wembury Church, with
its Hele monuments, to the mouth of the Yealm, which we
must visit by steamer presently.

The L. and S.-W. branch to Tumchapel puts us down near
Mount Batten. From Orestm^ on the way, one could walk

124 PLYMOUTH

through the Radford Woods^ bearing to the right behind the
mansion and striking a road down to the coast. Or turning
inland, one reaches Plymstock, which has a fine old church
half an hour's walk from the Laira Bridge ; and there is a
Plymstock railway station both on the G. W. R. Yealmpton
branch and the L. & S. -W. branch to Turnchapel.

St. Budeaux now almost makes part of Devonport ; and
the tram towards Saltash would carry us a good part of the
way out to it, as also the L. & S.-W. R. From the tower
of the Church, hotly defended by Cavaliers in the Civil War,
there is a good view over the Tamar and its valley. Hence
an hour's walk northwards through winding lanes leads to
Tamerton Foliott, a picturesque old village at the head
of a creek of the Tamar, with Warleigh Tor rising over its
confluence with the Tavy, where stands the remains of an
ancient mansion. Behind, to the east, are the heights by
which the Tavistock road mounts up to Eoborough Down
(pp. 131, 132), so by making for this one could have a pleasant
round of 2 or 3 hours on foot, with tramways to get through
the streets at either end.

■ OW^'^ PCRT'CN

^.Hiirm. Ml/7*

J l.iiiknl«^u)m^ '

j Rama

i "Jray-xcaul SSUiin/i I'*

H """" ( S f) 10,1 L (1

tSiavt

Mauv Roads,

EXCURSIONS FROM PLYMOUTH

It has already been mentioned how in the fine season
a whole fleet of excursion steamers start daily to various
points, going up the various estuaries which make the
special features of the scenery hereabouts, or along the
coast as far as Falmouth in one direction, Salcombe and
Dartmouth in the other. Is. or Is. 6d. is the usual fare
for these trips, or as little as 6d. for a turn out to the
Breakwater. Most of the steamers start from the Hoe Pier ;
but some belonging to the G. W. R. from their own pier in
the docks. The G. "W. boats do not run on Sunday, which
is a great day for other steamers. Particulars are published
from day to day in the local papers, and in bills at the
pier, etc.

The following are the most popular trips, done in the
course of a forenoon or afternoon : —

THE EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE

To this there are one or two excursions almost every fine
day. Passengers do not land at the lighthouse, which
stands on a reef in the open sea, 14 miles from Plymouth.
The scenery of the Sound being left behind, they have
the chance of falling in with some great armoured cruiser,
or of watching the slower manoeuvres of the training brigs
which every morning take their bluejacket scholars out to
sea for a lesson in naval life, as it was in the old days.

The history of the Eddystone is a remarkable one.

A line of rocks, 12 miles distant from the shore, stretches
between the Start and Lizard, 600 feet across the Channel, and
collecting the waters of the Atlantic around it, creates a whirl
and a restless motion which have suggested to seamen the signifi-
cant name of the Eddy-stone. Upon one of these, which at low

126 EXCURSIONS FROM PLYMOUTH

water just raises itself above the ocean level, Henry Winstanley,
a man of singular mechanical ingenuity, contrived, in 1696, to
raise a wooden lighthouse. It was 100 feet high, had numerous
quaint projections, and an open gallery at the top through which
in nautical parlance, a high sea would have carried a six-oared
galley. Winstanley, however, believed in its stability, and ex-
pressed a hope that he might be within it on the occasion of a
storm. His wish was granted : while effecting some alterations,
on the night of 26th November 1703, he was caught in a fearful
gale, and next morning there remained nothing of the light-
house but a few rugged stones and a fragment of iron chain !

Mr. John Rudyerd, a silk-mercer of Ludgate Hill, then resolved
to attempt the construction of a more durable building. Choosing
the frustum of a cone for his model, he built up five courses of
heavy stones upon the rock, and thereupon erected a superstructure
of wood, simple, unornamented, and free from projections and
open galleries. The whole was 92 feet high. It was begun in
1706 and completed in 1709. For years it admirably answered
its beneficent purpose ; but about two o'clock on the morning of
2nd December 1755, some Cawsand Bay fishermen, and the look-
outs on board Admiral Westrode's fleet, then at anchor in the
Sound, gave the alarm that the Eddystone Lighthouse was on
fire. It burnt for days, until by the 7th only a few cramps of
blackened iron remained.

Mr. Smeaton, the great engineer, was now applied to by Govern-
ment, and, taking the trunk of a forest oak for his model, he
commenced the erection o^ the third lighthouse on the 1st of June
1757, and completed it on the 24th of August 1759. It was a
circular tower of stone, sweeping up with a gentle curve from the
base, where it was set in a socket 3 inches deep in the solid rock,
and gradually diminishing towards the summit. On the cornice
was the inscription : * * Unless the Lord build the house, their
labour is in vain that build it."

This lighthouse maintained its position, secure and triumphant
over the attacks of the sea, for more than 120 years. The rock,
however, upon which it was built was not so impregnable, and
the safety of the structure being imperilled, a new lighthouse (the
fourth) was erected upon an adjacent part of the reef from the
designs of Mr. Douglass in 1881-82. This structure, inaugurated
May 1882 by the Duke of Edinburgh, rises 130 feet in height,
consists of 2171 stones weighing 4661 tons, and contains nine
chambers. Smeaton's lighthouse, still to be seen on 'the Hoe,
was only 72 feet high, weighed 988 tons, and contained four
chambers. The new light overlaps that from the Lizard.

THE YEALM
The estuary of this river (pronounced Yahm) is entered
more or less deeply by steamers, according to the state of

THE YEALM 127

the tide. Sailing between the Breakwater and the Staddon
Heights, they steer for the Mewstone, a prominent pyramid
of rock and turf that stands up out of the sea off the river
mouth. Here there may be a little knocking about in the
open sea, but if we have any qualms, there soon " comes
a peace out of pain" as the boat turns into quiet water
landlocked between high banks, the rich foliage of which
is mirrored below.

What we do next must depend on the tide. Sometimes
we can steam up the Kitley River, as the longer arm is
called. At low water our Argo may be able to go no
farther than the creek on the right, where she sticks fast
between the villages of Newton Ferrers and Noss, whose
church towers, "so near and yet so far," confront each
other over a bed of water or mud hardly as broad as the
Thames at Windsor. If the pier be for the moment in-
accessible, we might have an adventurous small-boat voyage of
a few yards, to land for a stroll through one or the other
village of white-washed cottages overgrown with vines and
creepers, whose amphibious industry, as in other villages
of this cr^ast, is much concerned with shell-fish. A new
landing-stage has probably facilitated disembarkation here.

An estate is laid out for building on the shore below
Newton Ferrers, where has been opened the Yealm Hotel
(see below), and there are humbler inns and tea houses
in the villages. Both Newton and Noss have finely restored
churches, with rich interior decorations.

If able to go up the Kitley River, one might profit by
this opportunity of getting on shore towards Yealmpton,
to walk back after taking more than a short peep at a
pretty corner of the county too much neglected. The
beautiful grounds of Kitley lie at the head of a creek, near
Brixton, with its ancient church, two miles short of
Yealm pton. Here the remains of elephants and other
prehistoric animals were discovered in a cave. The creek
running up to the right takes us to Puslinch, where is a
quay for Yealmpton.

On land, this neighbourhood may be visited by the
railway to Yealmpton (G. W. K.), which has a noble

128 EXCURSIONS PROM PLYMOUTH

rebuilt Church, with an old tower and a very ancient slab
in the churchyard, inscribed Torens, the origin of which is
unknown. Beside the Church stood a building traditionally
famed as a palace of King Ethelwold. From Steer Point
Station a few minutes' walk down a Devonshire lane brings
us to a steam launch that, on the wooded river, connects
the trains (3d.) with the Yealm Hotel. From Yealmpton
Station a trap (6d.) meeting most trains takes its hilly way
(3 J miles) to the village of Newton Ferrers, above the hotel,
with fine views of the South Hams and Dartmoor, then
over Membland Park to the left. The lion of the neigh-
bourhood is the beautiful and extensive Membland Drive,
running for several miles round the promontory to the east
of the Yealm, by Revelstoke, where the old church has
fallen into picturesque ruin. (This Drive is at present
open on Saturdays.)

To Bantham and the Avon is a longer voyage, giving,
beyond the Yealm mouth, a view of the cliffs of Bigbury
Bay, in the middle of which the wooded Erme mouth
opens a glimpse of Dartmoor in the background. Bighury
spire appears on the heights, and below Burr Island shuts
in the mouth of the Avon, winding down between its high
banks. The river needs cautious entering ; a mile or so
up, on the left shore, stands Bantham, where one can go
ashore in boats (Id.), but there is not much to see here, in
the time given, unless by hurrying up the slopes for a view
up the reaches of the river, or eastwards over to Thurlestone.
(Torquay Section, p. 95.)

The boats occasionally go a little farther along the coast,
to Hope Cove (p. 95), which is a very picturesque nook
of the coast ; and beyond this, besides excursions to Salcomhe,
whose beauties are described in our Torquay Section (p. 92),
steamers of business run from. Sutton Pool to the head of the
estuary at Kingsbridge (p. 89).

UP THE TAMAR

This is a very popular excursion, the steamer running to
JFeir Head, 25 m. from the Hoe, in about two hours with

UP THE TAMAR 129

half-a-dozen stoppages, which makes a cheap sail for Is. 6d.
There is at least one boat almost every day in summer.

Beyond Saltash, when we have threaded our way up the
Hamoaze, the Tamar expands again into what is, at high
tide, a wide lake, branching out within two miles in four
directions, the most northerly branches being the Tavy on
the right, and the Tamar itself on the left, whose course
some pronounce more picturesque than the much -lauded
lower Dart. We keep up the Tamar, passing, on the
Cornish side, the village of Landulph, whose church contains
a monumental brass, with a long inscription, to Theodore
Palaeologus, dubiously claiming to be the last descendant of
the Greek Emperors, buried here in 1636. A little farther
we pass, on the same side, the hamlet of Car Green (Inns),
two miles beyond which the channel of the stream bends
suddenly back to the left and forms a deep horse- shoe.
At the back of this bend, on the Cornish side, is Pentillie
Castle, surrounded by lovely grounds and venerable woods,
beyond which rises the hill called Mount Ararat, crowned
by a tower. The woods overhanging the river bank are a
most pleasing feature. Some boats stop here, giving their
passengers a short run on shore.

Beyond Pentillie, we reach, in less than three miles,
Gothele Quay, the landing for Cothele House, a granite
mansion, dating from the time of Henry VII., which belongs
to the Mount Edgcumbe family, and is shown to visitors in
their absence. The great hall and other rooms contain a
fine show of armour and antiquities. The house is not seen
from the water, but near Cothele Quay we have a glimpse
of a little chapel built by an ancestor of the Edgcumbes
to commemorate his escape from the tender mercies of
Richard III.

Above Cothele the river commences a succession of
eccentric windings towards every point of the compass. On
the Cornish side we halt at Calstock {Ashburton Hotel and
Inns), to which the fare is only Is., and a good many
excursionists disembark here to stretch their legs and taste
the produce of its famous strawberry beds, or otherwise
refresh themselves while awaiting the return of the boat.

130 EXCURSIONS FROM PLYMOUTH

Yet beyond is the best part of the river course, where it
twists and turns through miles of green-clad crags and
pinnacles, making a circuit round Calstock Church, from
which there is a fine view of its wanderings along the
Morwell Rocks. From Morwellham Quay, by the inclined
plain of the Tavistock Canal, we might climb up these rocks
for the prospect to the other side ; then here we should be
within an hour's walk of Tavistock (p. 134). The finest
reach of all, perhaps, is the last, ringed about by broken
and wooded cliffs at Weir Head, where the steamer has to
be turned with caution, and starts back as soon as she can
get her head down stream, carrying us away from scenes
which we would fain seek again for more than a peep at
their charms of rock, wood, and water. A sad eyesore here
is the mines, whose shafts do worse then obtrude themselves
among such sylvan beauty, for at more than one of them the
production of arsenic has discoloured both wood and water.

Up the Tavy is a trip not so often made, as depending
more on the tide ; but sometimes boats ascend past Warleigh
(p. 124) to Lopwell, passing the finely -wooded park of
Maristowe, which extends from the river to Koborough
Down. These grounds, however, are not open.

Other popular steamboat excursions are to Looe and
Falmouth, along the Cornish Coast, for which we must refer
to our Cornwall Guide.

PLYMOUTH TO TAVISTOCK, Etc.

Another of the great advantages of Plymouth in summer
is the cheap railway excursions, in connection with steamer
and coach routes, enabling tourists to visit hence, within
the day, no small part of the beauties of Devon and
Cornwall. Some of these goals we have already dealt with ;
some are reserved for our Dartmoor section ; some must be
sought in our Guide to Cornwall. Here it will be enough
to conduct the stranger along the western edge of Devon, as
far as Tavistock, whence a peep can be taken into the

J hi:

Te»To

'•%^«,

/ Imr on '*■"*' ' y * -^ ^'

B yS^ c h /ViJlriilrorthuJ Si/l" ~„ » , j , „/ HoaTm^'

f \ \'F( „ - ^ ^rtl/lnd. VfwS/f To

X

(

.WulfaJbmfifitti

B<wa 1_ f ■>! !i r,

''v:'"^'

yontii J.iiiit , - —

?^"

THE PLYM AND HEAVY VALLEYS 131

neighbouring county, and coaclies run on to Dartmoor in
connection with the trains.

The G. W. R. and the L. & S.-W. R. both have lines
from Plymouth to Launceston ; but the former may be
preferred as more direct. As far as Tavistock there is not
so much to choose between them, and if the cheap return
tickets issued by certain trains were not a consideration, we
would suggest going by the one route and returning by the
other. The line taken by the G. W. R. is, on the whole,
the more picturesque, its Launceston branch turning off at
Marsh Mills (p. 123) to mount the course of the Plym and
skirt the heights of Dartmoor, best seen from the right side of
the train. The high road to Tavistock (15 miles) runs some
way to the west, through Roborough, as far as which an
omnibus plies out of Plymouth thrice a day.

G.W.R. — Beyond Marsh Mills we at once find ourselves
looking down on characteristic Devonshire beauties, the
railway running up one side of the Vale of Bickleigh, a
picturesque richly-wooded glen, the best part of which is
private, but through the owner's liberality it makes a
popular resort of Plymouth people. Bickleigh Village (Inn)
lies half a mile west of the station, its Church tower con-
fronting that of Shaugh across the valley. For the grounds
of BicJdeigh (open Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays)
turn back from this station.

Up the river a road leads to Shaugh Bridge (2 miles), a
romantic spot hidden in foliage, where the Flyra {alias the Cad) is
joined by the Meavy. Above is the Dewerstone, a crag much
ascended by Plymouth holiday makers. If from Shaugh Bridge
we turn up on the right to the conspicuous pinnacled tower of
Shaugh Prior Church, there is struck a road in one direction to
Cadaford Bridge (1^ mile), in the other to Plymton (5 miles).
For an airy walk with wide prospects, we might also take the
Irybridge road, at the highest point of which stands an old cross,
then it descends to the Lcemoor Clay works, where a guide-post
shows many ways, Cornwood being now our nearest station (4
miles). From Skaugh, again, are short walks east to Shell Top
(p. 100), north to Sheepstor (p. 132) or over Wigford Down to Meavy
(see below) by the Merchant's Cross. (N.B. Excursion tickets to
Bickleigh available at Cornwood or Plympton. See pp. ]00, 101.)

Following for a time the valley of the Meavy, our line

132 EXCURSIONS FROM PLYMOUTH

crosses higher and more open ground towards that of the
Walkham, and near Yelverton, junction of the branch to
Princetown (p. 146) approaches the high road running for
miles over Roborough Down. Yelverton (Hotels : Rock, Leg
of Mutton, Barron's American, Willoughhy Park Boarding
House, etc.) is a favourite place both of residence and resort
with Plymouth people, and snug villas have been built on
this breezy upland (600 feet) among rich valleys. Its lion
is the Rock by the high road on Roborough Down, where
fancy traces the features of a distinguished character ; and
many other fine points may be visited on either hand.

The alpine railway up the sides of Dartmoor we leave to
be traced farther on (p. 146), but must mention its first
station, Dousland (Manor Hotel, Barron's Boarding House),
half an hour's walk north-east of Yelverton, on the very
edge of the moor, where the Princetown road is crossed by
that from Tavistock to Ivybridge.

From either Yelverton or Dousland, if one had an hour or two to
spare there, it is a short walk to Meavy, just off the Ivybridge Road,
where an oak that claims to be the oldest in England over.shadows
the old cross beside the church and inn. The walk up the course of
the Meavy is to be recommended, as far as Lether Tor on the north
side, one of the sharpest and roughest of Dartmoor eminences.
Close to the village, a little south of Meavy Bridge, stands the
Merchant's Cross, notable as the tallest of such old monuments about
Dartmoor. A couple of miles off is the village of Sheepstor, in
whose churchyard lies buried Rajah Brooke of Sarawak, who
ended his adventurous career at Burrator here. Above the village
may be ascended Sheepstor (1000 feet).

The Plymouth Water -Works. — But the great sight of this
neighbourhood is now the artificial lake formed at Burrator, to
store the water-supply originally brought by Sir Francis Drake
from Dartmoor by the " Leat," which may still be traced on its
slopes. In memory of this achievement the Plymouth Corporation
hold here an annual fishing feast, when the toast is drunk, "May
the descendants of him who brought us water never want for wine ! "
The reservoir contains 650 million gallons of water, and makes a
striking feature of the moor, where bogs are more common than
lakes. The massive dam is soon reached by a short walk from
Dousland.

Beyond Yelverton, on the line to Tavistock, the tors of
Dartmoor appear to the right, and in the foreground a

THE WALKHAM VALLEY 133

couple of narrow valleys, the larger of which is that of the
Walkham (Wallcomb\ coming down from Merrivale Bridge
(p. 138). At the convergence of these valleys, with its
station high above it, nestles Horrabridge (Inn : Rohorough
Arms), one of the good starting-points on the edge of the
moor, a little disfigured here by signs of mining speculation.
From it a road crosses the south-west corner of the moor to
Ivy bridge (p. 98), and Princetown may be easily reached
in a little over 6 miles. Both routes pass through
Walkhampton (Inn), or WacMngton, as old-fashioned folk
pronounce it, a mile or two east, where its towered Church,
both in itself and by reason of its commanding site, is a
conspicuous object above the valley, up which may be seen
Staple Tor, Mis Tor, and Vixen Tor (p. 139).

The Walkham Valley. — Beautiful walks may be taken up the
romantic glen, where the stream is crossed by Huckworthy Bridge,
Ward Bridge, and Merrivale Bridge, from any of which it is a few
miles to Tavistock. It is difficult to calculate distances by the
winding bar.\s ; but a good walker should reach Merrivale Bridge
(p. 138) in three or four hours. At Ward Bridge one may turn
towards Tavistock by Sampford Spinney, which has a singularly
placed Church with a fine tower, below the rock basins of Pew Tor
to the north. Or, from Ward Bridge, on the other side of the
river, there is a grand moorland walk below a line of tors to
Walkhampton, and thus back to Horrabridge.

Down the Walkham Valley, some half dozen miles from
Horrabridge, is reached its confluence with the Tavy, a beautiful
scene somewhat marred by the rubbish heaps of the Virtuous
Lady copper mine, said to take its name from Queen Elizabeth.
A tea garden at the crag called Raven Tor makes a prospect point,
below which the Virtuous Lady cave may be visited. Hence one
might follow the Tavy up to Tavistock, or down towards Buckland.

[Two miles west of Horrabridge station, across
Roborough Down, and about as far from Yelverton, lies
Buckland Monachorum (Inn), a pleasant village, with a
handsome Perpendicular Church, which contains some fine
carving, a painted ceiling, fragments of old painted glass,
and Bacon's monument to Lord Heathfield, 1790, the hero
of the siege of Gibraltar. The churchyard has a quaint
epitaph to a smith, conceived in proper trade terms, a

134 EXCURSIONS FROM PLYMOUTH

kind of grim humour which seems to have been popular
in Devonshire.

About a mile south-west stands BucMarvd Alley, adapted as
a residence by Richard Granville, and disjiosed of by him to
Sir Francis Drake, who bequeathed it to his nephew Francis.
An original portrait of the great sea-king, inscribed, " ^Etat.
suae 53, anno 1594," and his sword, drum, and Bible, are among
the memorials here preserved. The old Alley was founded in
1278 by Amicia de Clare, Countess of Devon, on a site such as
would recommend it to the Cistercian monks, — broad grassy
meadows, sloping under the shade of unbrageous groves to the
banks of a pleasant river. The principal remains are in-
corporated in the present dwelling, which includes the old
square central tower ; there are also some arches, and hoary
walls of the ancient tithe barn. The Abbey orchard is reputed
to be one of the earliest planted in Devonshire.

Beyond Buckland Abbey we can descend to the course of the
Tavy, a pretty river still, though here dirtied by the scourings
of a mine, and crossing at Benham Bridge make for the L. &
S.-W. R. station at Beer Ferris (see below), or, keeping to the
left side of the Tavy, by Maristowe (p. 130) gain the Plymouth
high road at Bolorough.]

Between Horrabridge and Tavistock the G. W. R. crosses,
by a large wooden viaduct, the Walhliam, a little short of
the confluence of that stream with the Tavy. Then, after
enjoying a beautiful prospect down the valley of the latter
river on the left hand, we come to Tavistock.

The L. & S.-W. R. from Devonport crosses the Tavy
and takes high ground above its wooded valley, where in a
few miles it changes from muddy flats to a mountain stream.
To the left are fine views over the estuaries. At Beer Alston
we look across to Calstock and the wooded windings of the
Tamar (p. 129). This line reaches Tavistock high above the
town and the right bank of the Tavy, whereas the G. W. R.
station is lower down on the other side ; both not far from
the chief objects of interest.

TAVISTOCK

Hotels : Bedford, Queen's Head, Newmarket, Shepperd's Temperance.

This is one of the pleasantest and most prosperous-
looking of Devonshire towns, lying in the fertile valley of

TAVISTOCK 135

the Tavy, flanked on the east by the slopes of Dartmoor,
and on the west by wooded eminences rolling across to the
course of the Tamar. The only thing to be said against it
is its having the name of a very wet place ; but though
built in a hollow, it stands actually high, and the people do
not seem to suffer from a relaxing climate. The town, with
its dependencies, has a population of over 13,000.

The chief lion of the place is the Abhey founded in 961
by Orgar, Earl of Devonshire, the father of that Elfrida
who bartered her husband's life for a king's love ; endowed
and completed (981) by his gigantic son Ordulf, and
dedicated as a Benedictine house to Sts. Mary and Kumon.
In 997 it was plundered and burnt to the ground by the
Danes, who carried fire and sword up the Tamar and as far
as Lydford, but was rebuilt with greater magnificence, and
became a favourite object of devout liberality. Its site and
buildings, with the manors and lordships, were bestowed in
1539 upon John Lord Kussell, thus founding the fortunes of
the ducal house of Bedford. Opposite the Abbey the Muni-
cipal Buildings have been erected in a style to harmonise
with what is left of it. In front is a statue of one of the
late Dukes.

The remains are to be found near the bridge between the two
railway stations, beside an open space edging the most important
part of the town, where they do not force themselves on our
attention, nor have they been treated with too much reverence.
Upon the site, and with the materials of the old Chapter-House, a
residence was built in 1736 ; and the site of this house is now
occupied, in its turn, by the buildings of the Bedford Hotel, erected
in the Elizabethan style about 1830. In their rear stands a
picturesque pinnacled Porch turned into a larder. The Gate-house
is in admirable preservation, and the upper room, distinguished
by a muUioned window, is used as the Public Library. The main
road passes through the archway. Oddest of the transformations is
that of the old Refectory into a Unitarian Chapel. The grand
Abbey Church, once second only to Exeter Cathedral in the diocese,
has been entirely destroyed : in the Commonwealth days a high
road was run through it, and a market held in its ruined aisles.
Within the pleasant grounds of the vicarage stand the ancient
Still-house, and Betsy GHmbaVs Tower, so called from a woman
said to have been murdered there ; also some stones with

136 EXCURSIONS FROM PLYMOUTH

remarkable inscriptions. A fragment of the Cloister Arcade may
be seen in the churchyard.

The Parish Church, on the other side of the road before the
hotel, is a stately Perpendicular pile, with a tower, nave, and
triple chancel, thoroughly restored by the Duke of Bedford in
1846. Its memorials are of high interest. Some bones of
extraordinary size discovered in a stone coffin among the debris of
the abbey are reputed to be those of the giant Earl Ordulf. Sir
John Glanville, who was born in the neighbourhood, and his lady
are commemorated by a fine monument and well-sculptured effigies,
temp. Elizabeth. The Bouchiers, Earls of Bath, and other
important personages, are similarly honoured. The visitor will
observe the richly-coloured glass of the eastern window, and the
exquisite carving of the altar-table, also the memorial to Sir John
Fitz of Fitzfordi and his lady. The Fitzford family are celebrated
in one of the once popular novels of Mrs. Bray, whose second
husband was Vicar of Tavistock.

These sights will soon be seen, and there may be time between
trains for a stroll down the pretty river walk skirting the old
Abbey grounds, which might be extended, with the new church
for a landmark, to Fitzford on the Plymouth road, where a barn
and gateway of Henry VII.'s date are all the remains of this
ancient seat, blighted by legendary crimes, as the country folk
tell, who keep grim memories of Lady Howard, daughter of Sir
John Fitz, unjustly represented as a sort of female Bluebeard to
all her four husbands. Here has been erected Boehm's statue
of Sir Francis Drake, a replica of which ornaments the Hoe at
Plymouth, but the latter lacks the bas-reliefs representing incidents
in Drake's life which appear on the original. Near this was
Crowndale, Drake's birthplace, a house now destroyed. A hand-
some modern church occupies a prominent position at this farther
end of the town.

Many excursionists get only a peep at Tavistock, coming
here to take the round driving trips, organised in connection
with the trains, which give Plymouth people a good five-
shillingsworth over wide stretches of Dartmoor and its
neighbourhood. Particulars of these trips can readily be
learned from the local tourist programmes of the railway
companies. Another attraction to Plymouth pleasure-seekers
is the golf course on Whitchurch Down, about a mile off,
where stands the Pixie Gross, or Monks' Gross, one of those
marking the Abbots' Way across the moor (p. 148).

Some visitors, however, if they be lucky enough to hit
on dry weather, will wish to make a longer stay in this

ABOUT TAVISTOCK 137

attractive place ; and for their benefit we suggest a few
excursions in various directions.

The stranger might well wish to revisit from this side the rock
scenery of the Tamar, which he perhaps saw so temptingly on the
steamboat trip to Weir Head (p. 130). By the Callington high-
road the river is not quite 4 miles away. A pleasanter round
would be to turn off from the river walk to the canal, on whose
deserted banks one keeps as far as MorwellhaTn Quay. Passing
through a mining district as far as the mouth of the Morwell
tunnel, 1% mile in length, he may ascend the hill, and strike
through a pleasant copse to the Morwell Rocks. Beneath flows
the Tamar, and the surrounding prospect includes the mining
district of Gunnislake, the slopes of Hingdon Down, and the village
of Qalstock (p. 129). Higher up the river is the renowned Weir
Head, and on the left, above a screen of foliage, rises Harewood
House, scene of Mason's tragedy "Elfrida." From the rocks
the tourist can find a winding path to New Bridge, near which
the Devon Great Consols copper and arsenic mine may be seen.
From New Bridge the highroad leads straight into Tavistock.

A walk do'vn the Tavy Valley will bring us towards BucJcland
Abbey and scenes already touched on. At least one might go as far
as its confluence with the Walkham near The Virtuous Lady
mine (p. 133). The way is by a road turning off" almost opposite
the cemetery above Tavistock, up to Rixhill, and the avenue near
Walreddon, a quaint building of Edward VI. 's reign, embosomed
in woods, then by a rough track over "West Down. The return
might be made by turning up the Walkham Valley to take the
road by Grenofen Bridge, a round of some 7 miles ; or it would
not be so far to make over Roborough Down for Horrdbridge
Station (p. 133).

Up the Tavy, also, a fine walk may be taken for an hour or two,
and continued the whole day, if one is tempted on. In an hour
we can reach Peter Tavy, behind which a fine Combe will lead us
on to the moor ; then a little farther lies Mary Tavy on the other
side, where are a famous lichened rock and a rude rustic bridge,
the Clam, to be admired. Beyond are Cudlipp Town and Hill
Bridge, and other scenes of Mr. Baring-Gould's novel, "Urith."
Up a romantic defile known as the Tavy Cleave, where the river
tears down its bed of granite boulders, one might make one's way
to its head near Fur Tor (2000 feet), rising among morasses almost
impassable in wet seasons. From Fur Tor the enterprising tourist,
if favoured by the weather, might follow the tors in a line with
the West Dart to Two Bridges, on the Moreton Hampstead road,
8 miles from Tavistock. A less heroic achievement, making a

138 EXCURSIONS FROM PLYMOUTH

round of some 10 miles, would be to cross the river and the railway
to Mary Tavy, for Brent Tor, and return to Tavistock by the
road over high ground on the other side.

Brent Tor (1000 feet) is 4 miles from Tavistock by the high-
road just mentioned. This conical peak stands sharply out,
conspicuous upon all sides by the little church on its summit,
serving as a sea-mark from Plymouth Sound 20 miles off, and its
position as a solitary outlying point of Dartmoor gives it a mag-
nificent view. It is often visited by taking train to the L. & S.-W.
Brent Tor station, a mile or so beyond. Just before reaching this
station the church comes into view ; then any one used to finding
his way across country will have little difficulty in reaching the
top once he has got over the G. W. R. line. The simplest, and
perhaps in the end the shortest, way is to go up from the railway
bridge through the village of North Brent, holding on upwards to
the high road between Tavistock and Lydford, which passes under
the brow of the Tor. An easy half-hour brings us thus to a small
inn, where the key of the church can be had. A little way beyond,
a gate and stile will be seen giving access to the turfy steeps, over
which stands the little Early English Church that has held its
own so sturdily against many a storm. The view from the tiny
churchyard, unless spoiled by wet or haze, takes in the Tors of
Dartmoor, and on the other side the Cornish heights of Brown
Willy and Row Tor. Brent Tor is apparently an extinct volcano,
deriving its name from its scarred head, or else from the beacon
fires that may well have flamed on this far-saen crest. The 4
miles of highroad hence to Tavistock make pleasant walking,
mostly downhill.

North-eastwards the road to Launceston by Lamerton, turning
off at 3Iilton Abbot, takes us to the beautiful grounds of Endsleigh
Cottage (6 m.) on the Tamar and the border of the county. This
is a " cottage of nobility," one of the seats of the Duke of Bedford ;
and permission to visit the park, with its Swiss Cottage, its Terrace
view, and its woodland paths by the winding Tamar, must be
obtained through his Estate Office at Tavistock, a limited number
of tickets being granted on each day. Above, near Dunterton,
there is a waterfall ; and from Greystone Bridge, higher up, the
unwearied pedestrian may make for Launceston by the Cornish
Carthamartha Rocks, — wildly picturesque masses of limestone.
From Endsleigh to Launceston is 9 miles by road, but much
farther if one keep near the bold bends of the river.

The visitor might well wish to make a short excursion into
Dartmoor, rising so close at hand. This he can do by taking
the Moreton Hampstead highroad across the moor, which in 8
miles will carry him to Princetown (p. 146) by Merrivale Bridge
(5 miles) on the Walkham river, much visited for the sake of its

Photochrom Co., Lta

BREN TOR, DARTMOOR.

A TRIP ON DARTMOOR 139

antiquities. This road at once begins to ascend, leaving on the
left Mount Tavy, a modern mansion on the river-bank, in the
shadow of Rowden Wood. As we climb the hill there is a fine
retrospect over the valley in which Tavistock lies, and across the
Tamar to the Cornish heights, where a lofty engine-stalk sur-
mounting Kit Hill makes one of the most conspicuous landmarks
in the south-west of England. North of Tavistock the isolated
peak of Brent Tor is almost equally conspicuous. In less than
3 miles the moorland part of the road commences, and we come
to close quarters with the first of the numerous tors which are
the chief features of the rest of our journey. On the left, as we
descend to Merrivale Bridge (Inn), are the Staple Tors, beyond
which come the Great and Little Mis Tors ; and on the right stands
Vixen Tor, resembling the Egyptian Sphinx.

[Great Mis Tor (1760 feet), dominating the group of heights
here, nearly two miles away to the north, may be ascended without
much difficulty when not wrapped in cloud. On the top is a
natural rock-basin, called Mis Tor Pan, about 10 feet in circum-
ference, which has been supposed to be the work of the Druids,
to whom everything prehistoric is readily attributed, when we
know so little about them. From another agent to whom super-
stitious country folk are apt to credit anything mysterious, it gets
the nickname of the DeviVs Frying Pan ; but it is apparently
natural. At the top of Vixen Tor are three similar basins, and
they occur fr'^quently on other parts of the moor.]

A little way beyond Merrivale Bridge, near the right hand of
the road (turn off at a C. T. C. danger board), will be found the
remarkable antiquities which have given rise to so much specula-
tion among learned and unlearned. The chief feature of them is
two avenues of uncut stones, irregular in height and shape, placed
about 2 feet apart, for a distance on one side of 780 feet, and on
the other of nearly 600 feet. There are also stone circles, traces of
hut dwellings, the ruins of two cairns and a cromlech, and a little
to the south the tallest menhir (13 feet) on Dartmoor. These
remains, which have suffered much from the carelessness of the
moor people in the past, are also ascribed to the Druids without
any particular reason. Some antiquarians look on them as relics
of ancient serpent worship, or as monuments in memory of a great
battle, the same explanations as are applied to the much larger
groups of stones dotting the country for miles near Karnac in
Brittany.

The turning (right) for Princetown comes l^mile beyond Merrivale
Bridge, the main road going on by Two Bridges (p. 149) to Moreton
Hanipstead (p. 160), 22 miles from Tavistock.

There is a footway from Tavistock station (G. W. R.) across
Whitchurch Down, that, if one did not lose it, would lead into
the road near Merrivale Bridge ; and we have already recommended
the rough walk by the course of the Walkham to its junction

140 EXCUESIONS FROM PLYMOUTH

with the Tavy, or to the road through Horrabridge to Tavistock,
which would make a round of a long half-day's walking (p. 133).

Lastly, the road by St. Mary Tavy (3 m.) might be continued
to Lydford (7 m.) and Bridestowe (10 m.), or all the way to
Okehampton (16 m.) along the slopes of Dartmoor, much marked
at first by mine shafts, but giving tine views towards the tors and
over the course we are about to follow by rail.

From Tavistock to Lydford, the rival railways run
closely, if not lovingly, together, presently crossing each
other, so as to take changed sides in their course up the
moorlands. The handsome building seen below the L. &
S.-W. line j ust out of Tavistock is the Kelly College, primarily
intended for the sons of naval officers. The G. W. R. has a
station at Mary Tavy; the L. & S.-W. R. at Brent Tor.
Their Lydford stations are at the beginning of the long
village which struggles over a couple of miles (p. 170).
Lydford is one of the Plymouth excursion points ; but for
its attractions we must refer the reader to our survey
of Dartmoor. From these outskirts we have been drawn
80 far on to the moor itself, that it is time to take a general
view of this remarkable region after pointing out one route
in the other direction.

Lydford to Launceston 12^ m. — Through beautiful
but not much explored country, the G. W. R. runs direct to
Launceston, passing at first high above the Lyd, with fine
views of the river and its richly-wooded valley, which it
crosses several times. It has stations at Goryton and Lifton,
and at the latter enters Cornwall, where we hand over the
tourist to our guide of that ilk.

The road is a little longer, bending to the north of the
river by Coryton ; and we fancy that cyclists who think
chiefly of pace prefer to begin with a slight detour, striking
northwards into the Exeter-Launceston high-road at GomeboWy
whence it is 10 miles to Launceston. From Plymouth the
direct road to Launceston (24 miles) goes on the Cornish
side of the Tamar, by Saltash and Gallington.

DARTMOOR

This "monstrous lump of granite, covered with a peaty
soil," which measures roughly 20 miles across each way,
or a little more at its widest, is the highest tableland in the
south of England, more than one of its eminences rising to
the height of 2000 feet. It has thus a climate very much
more bracing than that of the Devonshire coast or lowlands,
a welcome restorative to fagged holiday-makers who seek
the medicine of keen, pure air. Its climate cannot, indeed,
be called genial : rain and mist abound, sometimes both at
once, and the winds up here make a sharp change from the
languors of Torquay or Plymouth. Perhaps youth and
health are needed fully to enjoy a stay on Dartmoor ; and
it takes a clear Wordsworthian eye to admire at first sight
its austere beauties, by which some come to be strongly
fascinated, while others disparage them as bare and feature-
less in comparison with Scotch or "Welsh mountain scenery.
Not a few strangers who get only a bleak glimpse of
Dartmoor on a wet day, will be inclined to agree with old
Camden in his belittling account of it as " certain dirty and
mountainous places."

Dartmoor, though without woodlands or deer, is legally a
" forest," and for the most part a domain of the Duchy of
Cornwall, its borders being common land of the neighbour-
ing parishes. The modern sense oi forest will convey no true
idea of this naked, undulating moorland, dappled with
heather and patches of bog, seamed with ridges and ravines,
no trees to be seen for miles, no building unless, perhaps,
the shaft of some abandoned mine, nor any other striking
landmark but heaps of granite boulders crowning the

142 DARTMOOR

frequent tors into which it swells, with telegraph posts or
Ordnance Survey poles standing out against the horizon,
here and there, as the sole signs of this being a civilised
country. You might go half a day here without meeting a
human being, only herds of long-tailed ponies running wild
as the wind that sweeps over their poor pasture, and sheep
scurrying away like deer as you pass, and red cattle looking
up to stare at you stupidly, as if they did not know what to
make of a stranger in those out-of-the-way parts. Even in
fine weather unfortunate tourists sometimes lose themselves
if they have been tempted to leave the rare beaten tracks ;
and mist and snow make the passage of the lonely moor a
dangerous enterprise when the only guide may be the course
of streams that ooze from every black fissure in the peat,
trickling down the hollows till they have gathered strength to
cut their way deep through rocky chines and gorges. As
we approach its edges we come upon scattered farms and
turf roads winding down to where this wilderness is found
fringed with the most lovely bits of broken ground, richly-
wooded glens, bushy slopes, and fern-clad water-courses, in
which the moor loses itself among the fields and villages of
lowland Devon. And if one be not much taken by its upper
stretches, which do not at once commend themselves fully to
every eye, no lover of the picturesque can refuse his hearty
admiration to the charms found on the borderland of
Dartmoor, especially along the rapid rivers rising in its
peaty bosom.

Yet even among the wilds, that at first sight seem most
desolate, there are beauties to be searched for, as well as those
that, displayed about the rough skirts of the moor, force
themselves more upon our attention. Striking features are
Hay Tor, with its huge mass of tumbled rocks (p. 157) ; the
green valley of Widdecomhe, with its great Church (p. 158) ;
Wistman's Wood, a small group of stunted, weather-beaten
oaks curiously interspersed among granite boulders (p. 149) ;
Dartmeet, where the East and West Dart join amid most
lovely surroundings (p. 153); the Cyclopean bridge at Post
Bridge (p. 151) ; the beautiful course of the Gowsic River,
half lost among rocks and fern (p. 150) ; Great Mis Tor, and

DARTMOOR 143

the antiquities below it, which we have already visited from
Tavistock (p. 139) ; Tavy Cleave, in the same neighbourhood
(p. 137); but, indeed, in our limits it is impossible to enumerate
all the natural attractions of this region, or to dwell upon
the hut circles, stone monuments, cairns, and old crosses by
which it is so much studded.

As for the Tors, tliere are between one and two hundred
of them, for the most part looking rather like each other,
though to an observant eye the shifting shadows of clouds
cast a constant diversity of smiles and frowns over their
bare faces. A feature they have in common, is being topped
by masses of rock, so broken and shaped by the action of
the elements, that it is often difficult to reject the explanation
of human agency ; while the slopes, too, are in many parts
strewn with huge blocks or slabs, locally known as " clatters."
Yes Tor, near Okehampton, is usually called the highest
point (2030 feet) of Dartmoor, but the impartial records of
the Ordnance Survey give this honour to High JVillhays,
rising above it, to the south, by 10 feet or so (p. 170).

The most renowned is perhaps Grochern Tor (p. 149), a
little north of Two Bridges and of the main road from
Tavistock to Moreton Hampstead, which formed the mid-
stage of the highway from Plymouth to Exeter. Here,
from time immemorial, up to the middle of the last century,
were held the Stannary Parliaments, county councils of
the period, an assembly of delegates from the Stannary
towns, Tavistock, Plympton, Ashburton, and Chagford,
whose office it was to settle all questions connected with
the mining industries of the neighbourhood, especially
that of tin, as the name Stannary denotes. The Dartmoor
mines, we notice from frequent tokens, were formerly more
prosperous, but at present only one is working.

North of Crockern Tor is Gut Hill, beyond which
Granmere Pool (p. 150) may be taken as the central point
of the moor, not indeed in respect of distances, but since
in the morasses round it most of the Dartmoor streams
have their source ; or, it might be said, the chief rivers of
Devon, with exception of the Exe, the Otter, the Axe, and
the Torridge. Northwards, the mountain-torrent of the Taw

144 DARTMOOE

forms the brimming river which enters the sea at Barnstaple.
The East and West Okement are the chief feeders of the
Torridge. Southwards, the streams pursue independent
courses throughout. The largest, and perhaps the most
beautiful, are the Dart, the Teign, and the Tavy ; but the
Erme, the Avon, the Yealm, and the Plym have all their
special charms and faithful admirers. A feature of the
moor is the " Cyclopean " bridges, which have spanned the
upper waters with blocks of granite so huge as to suggest
superhuman agency. Unless when in spate, the streams
can usually be forded or crossed by stones. The bogs
about their course make a more serious obstacle, so that
the best way to follow them is often on their enclosing ridges.

As anglers make such a large part of Dartmoor's visitors, a
few remarks for their benefit may not be out of place.

The lower part of the chief streams are, as a rule, in the hands
of associations, tickets to be had from their officials, or at the
hotels. The upper waters, on the moor itself, lie mostly within
the domain of the Duchy of Cornwall, where permission should
be obtained from the bailiff at Tor Royal, as also for shooting.
The Prison Estate about Princetown, however, is preserved for
the officials ; and it is ill trespassing on bounds vigilantly guarded
by armed men. Streams on the moor, and not within the Duchy
limits, we understand to be free.

The season begins 1st March. In its early part, the best time
may be the warmer mid-day hours ; but when genial weather has
fairly set in, the mornings and evenings will prove more fortunate.
Fishing up-stream, if the wind allow, is to be recommended in
clear ripples ; but in brown peaty streams this does not so much
matter. At the head of pools, with an up-stream wind, or at
the "stickle" running out of them, is apt to be a likely place.
Fishermen will look out for the bogs, the most dangerous of which,
marked usually by their light green colour, are often high up on
the course of impeded streams. In stretches of bog the edge of
the stream is often the driest place. Another impediment some-
times will be the granite rocks coming steeply down to the edge,
as above Tavy Cleave, so that one can hardly find footing. Short
rods are advisable. Waders come in useful on the larger streams.

No great variety of flies is needed, small and dark being the
general rule. From beginning to end of the season one may do
well enough with blue uprights, March brown, alder and red
palmer. There are those who make havoc with artificial minnows ;
and beetles or grasshoppers as well as worms prove a deadly bait
in skilful hands that condescend to such. The fish run small ; a

DARTMOOR 145

quarter pound is a big trout on the upper waters, and half-a-dozen
to the pound would be a fair average. In the lower rivers bigger
fish can, of course, be taken. A peculiar black-tailed trout is said
to be found in a pool under the waterfalls in Lydford Gorge.
Otter-hunting affords excellent sport in some of these waters.

A drawback to Dartmoor, as a holiday resort, is the want
of accommodations and shops, which must be sought rather in
the towns lying round its edge. Princetown alone stands on
the moor itself, at the eastern end. Moreton Hampstead,
lying below its western edge, makes a base of approach in
that direction. The road between them forms one principal
highway, which at Two Bridges branches off east and west,
this being the intersection point of a St. Andrew's cross
of roads, from Yelverton through Princetown to Moreton
Hampstead, and from Tavistock to Ashburton. Other ways
over the centre are for the most part mere tracks, which
we recommend to be followed with care, special heed being
given to the perilous patches of bog that might swallow up
an unwary traveller, horse and man, and to the mists that
bewilder even experienced natives. In our limits we can
do little more than trace plain ways ; and if we do suggest
divagations here and there we would impress upon our
readers the need of caution. It is not wise to venture
upon these wilds without some practice in taking care of
one's self in hill country ; and we cannot afford to supply
the doubtful assistance of minute clues which, once lost,
would leave an amateur astray among unfamiliar dangers.
Local guidance is advisable for excursions off beaten tracks ;
while the stranger staying for a little in any neighbourhood
will soon become acquainted with its leading landmarks. A
good companion is the Ordnance Map ot the region (Double
Sheet, 324-338) which can now be had in a case for Is. 6d.

As a rule, in the following section the use of small print
will show where we are off the roads. These, so far as they
serve us, will be found well supplied with guide-posts.
Except on some stretches, they are rather trying to cyclists,
who must remember that Dartmoor was not laid out for
their pastime. The pedestrian has the best of it here.
The moor, however, is traversed in summer by several

10

146 DARTMOOR

systems of coach excursions in connection with railways,
the chief points of departure being Tavistock^ Moreton
Hampstead, Bovey Tracey, and Newton Abbot, For these see
the time-tables of the G. W. R.

Railway branches mount up to Princetown, Moreton
Hampstead (p. 160), and Ashburton (p. 154). Other towns
lying round the edge of the moor are Ivy Bridge (p. 98),
Lydford (p. 171), Okehampton (p. 168), Ghagford (p. 164), and
Tavistock (p. 134).

PRINCETOWN

Hotels : Duchy (with Duchy Boarding House in connection), Feathers, etc.

The capital of the moor, as it might be called, is 15
miles from Plymouth, the bare slopes about it being visible
from the Hoe. The way out is by the Tavistock road,
which after a long, high stretch over Roborough Down is
left (to the right) near Yelverton station (p. 132), where the
G. W. R. branch goes off. Road and rail come together at
Dousland, whence the former runs on as straight as it can,
mounting 5 miles of bleak moors ; but the railway is nearly
twice as long, winding upwards in the manner of a miniature
St. Gothard line, so as to give wide views in all directions.
Passing the Burrator Reservoir (p. 132), it sweeps round first
to the right, then to the left, by King Tor, before tumbling
out its passengers just outside of Princetown. Even if one
were going straight back again to Plymouth, this short
journey is worth taking for the sake of its glimpse over
Dartmoor.

Princetown — though Buxton claims to look down on it as
not a market town — is the highest town in England (1400
feet), and our first emotion on reaching it may be a shiver,
even if not found shrouded in mist or rain. In spite of an
abnormal number of wet days, however, it is a very healthy
height, and the railway has helped it to come forward as a
small sanatorium. New, bleak, and dreary is the first aspect
of a place that would be no more than a village but for the
huge prison dominating it, whose unwilling inmates and
their attendants make the bulk of the population.

DARTMOOR DISTRICT

Hatherlei^m

Monk

iJacobstowe

Scale of Miles
12345

J^awton

, I'Boiu 01-
(Nymet Traceu

InwarclleignL

Okehambfc

Belstone \

jeldon

fs. Taujton

f'wXisand

Bridesto

5\C^ Wo/- Sl i j3

^Wmays jj
Okemont
Gt. Links \\ ■,.;,

C'ranmere^K,
Pool ■■ Dart
/^^ : \Head
x^^yFur Tor

■h afford

Peter Tauy , ^

if^tMis

'MerriualeBr. '

Drewsteignton

FingleBr.J^^^i

^an brook
Cas.

Moreton
ampstead

Tor'''^

Hartlhpd

Tor\j^ost Br.
xl"ri

\ Crocke^^^_^^^^
s\J^!/~~Om!evei

j:'"'y To.. ....

Sampfq^rd^
\Spiney

'fif Dart met

ijjorrabji^ge

\W^'hamj]ton

ipoOSLAND STA

^-^^\'Tor Roijnl
\Ho.

Classenwell

"Pool ■• Fox Tor

^'■'^

,Auon
[.Head

Holne^

Hey Tor

Buckland g

I the Moor^

Chhse

^Holne
Park

Sheepstor (Erme^kead
'eauy

Shell Top
idouer L)

Buckfastleigh'-

DearKPrior,

Walter GrBoutaU sc.

PRINCETOWN 1 47

Daxtmoor Prison. — This building, instead of any harsh inscription
forbidding hope to those who pass its gates, bears as its motto
Virgil's Parcere subjectis. Originally used as a depot for French
prisoners of war, who found the neighbourhood a Siberian change
from the sunny banks of Loire or Rhone, also for American sailors
in 1813, it was in 1850 adapted as one of our chief convict establish-
ments. The prisoners are employed on a farm, or in the great
quarries adjacent, but sometimes have to be kept idle for days or
weeks lest they should attempt escape in the prevailing fogs.
Such attempts are almost hopeless of eventual success, so vigilant
is the guard kept ; but occasionally of late years a convict has been
taken after getting off to the lowland country. The harmless
stranger, prowling about these precincts, may be startled to en-
counter armed men lurking on the look-out, who are not bandits,
but warders ; and stern notices against trespassing, so superfluous
on most parts of Dartmoor, remind us that here we must be on
our good behaviour.

For honest citizens there is no admission to the prison except
on business, or with an order from the Home OflBce.

The only other public building is the Church, literally
a chapel-of-ease, since the parish church at Lydford is more
than a dozen miles off. This, originally constructed by
French prisoners in the great war, has lately been restored
and embellished.

The main interest of Princetown to strangers is as afford-
ing good quarters for exploration of the moor. Several
well-known points lie close at hand. North Hessary Tor
(1600 feet) gives a grand view above the prison. This is
on the west side of the road to Tavistock, a short mile
north of the station ; then rather farther south of the village,
reached by a track from the Duchy Hotel, is South Hessary
Tor (1475 feet). About a mile west of the latter, to the
south of the Yelverton road, rises Harter Tor, on whose
south side is a mysterious grouping of stones and hut circles.

The Tavistock Road (7 J miles) goes between North
Hessary Tor and the Prison, in about a mile striking into
the highway from Two Bridges. Turning left for Tavistock,
after a good mile, we have on the left of the road the Merri-
vale Antiquities (p. 139). To the north of the junction of
roads rise Little and Great Mis Tor (p. 139), on the east side
of which flows the Blackabrook. About a mile above its
crossing of the road to Two Bridges will be found Fit'^s

148 DARTMOOR

TVell, its cover inscribed with the date 1568. This is con-
nected with some legendary memory of Sir John Fitz of
Fitzford, who appears as a water finder of his period, for
wells bearing his name are found also at Tavistock and
Okehampton.

At the end of Princetown, as we go out on the main road east-
wards, a lane turns off right to Tor Royal, a short mile away,
residence of the Bailiff of the Duchy, which seems a little oasis of
green in the wastes around. The height sometimes called Tor
Royal is South Hessary Tor (see above) on maps, locally known
as Look-out Tor, which lies a little to the south. A mile to the
east another height, Boyal Hill (1333 feet), is surrounded by
kistvaens. One such monument, two miles to the south of this,
over the Swincombe River, was renowned as Childe's Tomb, where
a cross, now destroyed, kept the legendary memory of Amyas
Childe the Hunter, whose perishing in the snow is told in Mr.
Baring Gould's *' Songs of the West."

A track due south from Tor Royal House leads, in two miles,
to the Nun's Cross, alias Siward's Cross, one of a line of crosses
that once marked the Abbots' Way running between the Abbeys
of Tavistock and Buckfastleigh, still in parts to be traced as a
green path. Here, turning westward, in a couple of miles, we
should strike lanes leading down to the Meavy valley. The Leat,
formed to supply Devonport with water, leads us in this direction
to Classenwell Pool, the only tarn to be called a lake on Dart-
moor, of course declared to be bottomless, in point of fact deep
enough to drown one, but its reputation has been overwhelmed
by the Burrator Reservoir (p. 132), two miles farther on. As we have
experienced more than once, the pool is difficult to hit upon.

North eastward from the Nun's Cross, one might make towards
the water wheels of deserted tin works for a cautious survey of
Fox Tor Mire, celebrated as the worst among Dartmoor morasses.

From Nuns Cross, also, adventurous tourists hold on for a tramp
of 12 miles or so to Ivyhridge (p. 98), by the heads of the Plym and
the Erme, passing Three Barrows and Sharpitor, at the foot of
which latter will be found a patch of wood, a greater rarity on
Dartmoor than the name Sharp Tor, which belongs to several
eminences. As to this route, we relieve our conscience by saying,
that though drier and clearer than some Dartmoor tracks, it is not
to be undertaken unless by those who can steer their way across
country with the aid of map and compass. Some 2 miles below
the Erme Head is reached the stone circle called Erme Pound,
whence a track keeps south above the left bank to Harford (p. 99).

TWO BRIDGES 149

PRINCETOWN TO MORETON HAMPSTEAD AND
ASHBURTON (each about 14 miles)

With Tor Royal to its right, and the wall of the prison
enclosure making a cheerless prospect on its left, the high
road crossing the Blackabrook runs bleakly on for a mile
to its junction with the road from Tavistock ; then a little
farther reaches in a cultivated hollow a group of buildii^gs,
of which the principal is the Saracen^s Head Inn. This is
Two Bridges, the meeting-point of the four Dartmoor roads
from Princetown, Tavistock, Moreton Hampstead, and Ashburton.
Here, too, unite the Cowsic and the West Dart rivers, so
that the inn makes a good centre for anglers and explorers
who may be lucky enough to find accommodation at it in
the season.

Up the Dart, on its left side, are Crockem Tor, by no means
prominent in proportion to its historical importance, and beyond
it Wistman's Wood, to which the pedestrian will no doubt turn a
mile or two aside. It may be reached by the farm road to the
left, just beyond the bridge leading out on the moor, where the
wood will be seen nestling in the hollow of the river ; or for
Crockern Tor above, we may gain the moor through a patch of
wind-blown trees enclosing a ruined cottage, about half a mile
farther on the Moreton road. North of Crockern extends a line of
tors, the highest of which, Higher White Tor (over 1700 feet), is
gained in 2 miles. Between this line and the river lies the wood.

Wistman's Wood probably takes its name from whisht, a
Devonshire synonym for "uncanny." It is a group of stunted
and gnarled oaks, mixed with ferns and mountain ash, rooted
among mossy boulders which make rough scrambling. There are
said to be some five hundred of these trees, many of them several
centuries old, but none more than 10 or 12 feet high. One
tradition gives them as planted in the 13th century by Isabella de
Fortibus, Countess of Devon ; but this weird wood appears to be
still older. It is naturally connected with the Druids, and
another derivation finds its name in their synonym, " The Wise
Men." Both stones and trees answer doubly to ancient ideas of a
sacred place, and few superstitious natives would care to find them-
selves here in the dark. It is haunted by adders, which make a
real danger ; one should be careful in picking one's steps among
the boulders and their choked-up interstices. While this weather-
worn wood seems almost as ancient as the stone monuments
around it, the greenery in the adjacent Cowsic glen has been
carefully nursed into beauty within the last century.

150 ^ DARTMOOR

The Cowsic Glen runs about a uiile to the west, separated from
Wistman's Wood by the ridge of Beardown. Near the confluence
the stream is spanned by a little clapper bridge. Hence its
wooded course may be followed for 3 or 4 miles, up to its source,
between DeviVs Tor on the east and Maiden Hill on the west, both
at least 1750 feet. To the south of the latter are Hut Circles,
and a trace of the old Lyke Way running westward to Lydford
(p. 171), in a mile or so coming down upon the head-waters of the
Walkham (pp. 133, 139), which flows from a height some miles
north-west of Cowsic Head.

Two Bridges to Cramnere Pool. — If a bold adventurer be bent
on gaining the heart of the moor, Cranmere Pool lies 7 miles due
north, along a ridge of tors between the waters of the Walkham
and those of the two Darts. The farm track crossing the Cowsic
from a little way back on the Tavistock Road, puts us at once on
to this line, where the course of this stream is a guide for some
3 miles. Beyond, bounding the prospect northward, should be
seen a hog's-back ridge, crowned by a triangular mound. This is
Cut Hill (nearly 2000 feet) 5 miles north of Two Bridges. To
reach it one must keep as much as possible along the ridge. The
cairn is surmounted by an Ordnance pole, from which a wide but
monotonous view opens up in front. Northwards is Yes Tor
(p. 170), hardly distinguishable from its fellows, and nearer at hand
the valley of the Tavy rapidly deepens. Cawsand Beacon (p. 167),
a long whale-backed ridge, is a little east of north.

Beyond Cut Hill comes the most trying part of Dartmoor, the
region of Cranmere Pool, which has a mysterious reputation,
founded mainly on the difficulty of reaching it. It is believed to
have grown drier in recent times, but after heavy rains may be
more formidable. The search after it might almost have suggested
to Browning Childe Roland's coming to the Dark Tower, on the
way to which so many knights were wildered among —

" Now blotches rankling, coloured grey and grim.
Now patches where some leanness of the soil's.
Broke into moss, or substances like boils."

If it be found, there is usually nothing to see but " a slight
depression in a soil of inky blackness, bounded on every side by
morass, and having on the western side a narrow strip of water,
nowhere attaining a foot in depth, and which in hot weather
disappears in the bog. By its margin stands a low cairn of white
stones, erected by Perrot, the well-known Chagford guide ; within
it will be found a canister containing the names of the adventurous
few who have succeeded in discovering this melancholy hollow"
(Page's Dartmoor). This is the "Cranmere Post Ofiice,"_ where
those who may achieve the exploit have the satisfaction of
leaving their cards on the genius loci, rather a disreputable spirit

POST BRIDGE 151

indeed, "Bingie" by name, an ex-mayor of Okehampton, who,
for misdoings in the flesh, is doomed to bale out the pool with a
sieve, or with a holed thimble, a legend like that of the Cornish
Tregeagle. The depression, it must be remembered, is at a greater
altitude than many of the prominent tors. From the waste of
oozy and fissured bog around issue all the bright waters which
carve the edges of Dartmoor into such loveliness. Cranmere Pool,
in its small way, is here what the Tibetan tablelands are to Asia.
It need hardly be said that this is no trip for every pedestrian.
When he has haply come safe to Cranmere Pool, he may be glad
to turn back again. But if bent on further adventures, he may
hold on about as far, still in the same direction, to Okehaimpton (p.
168), guided by the streams, which now flow northwards, the East
Okement straight ahead, the Taw a little to the east. Dart Head
lies in a depression some half mile south-east of Cranmere Pool ;
thence the East Dart takes him southward to the high road at
Fost Bridge (see below). The waters flowing eastward run to the
North and South Teign, which unite a little way above Chagford
(p. 164). As the crow flies, Cranmere Pool lies 6 or 7 miles from
each of these points, as also from the western edge of the moor
a\iOYe Lydford\^. 170).

Two Bridges to Moreton Hampstead (12 J miles). —
The road leads us on in 4 miles, over Cherry Brook, to Post
Bridge ; the lion of which is the most famous of the Clapper
Bridges, which are features of Dartmoor. Close below the
modern bridge over the East Dart, it is formed by four piers
of granite supporting a roadway of huge stones, each 1 5 feet
long. At Post Bridge we find a sight almost rarer on the
moor, something like a village, with two chapels and a
Temperance Inn, where one might halt to make divagations.

Near at hand, on the left, is Lake Head Pound, the traces of a
fortified camp. In the same direction, 3 miles up the Long Ridge,
we come to the Grey Wethers, two incomplete stone circles, so
called from their resemblance to a flock of sheep, lying at the base
of Sittaford Tor to the west (1764 feet), easily ascended by those
who would try to rock the logan-stone at its summit. From the
Grey Wethers one might track a stream for a couple of miles
north-east to the Femworthy Circle, another of the broken
" Roundy-poundies " of Dartmoor, where there is a small clapper
bridge. Thence, by lanes eastwards in about 4 miles, could be
reached Chagford (p. 164).

Post Bridge is believed to have been a crossing-place of the
ancient track-way across Dartmoor. A well-greaved explorer
might try to trace this westwards between the two Darts, or on

152 DARTMOOR

the other side a little north of east in 3 or 4 miles to Grimspound
(see below).

From Post Bridge, the road ascends Merripit Hill, where
a by-way, right, would lead across to Ashhurton by the
Buckland region (p. 158) in some dozen crooked miles. The
top of the hill (1474 feet) is to the left of the main road,
which in 3 miles reaches a small inn known as the Warren
House, from the large rabbit-warren near it.

At an ancient stone cross on the right, marked W. B., i.e.
Warren Bounds, the tourist may make his way in 2 miles over the
moor by a rugged path past Vitifer Mine, which was working not
many years ago — to Grimspound, the largest and one of the most
remarkable memorials of this kind on the moor, a circular stone
camp with walls of great thickness, containing hut circles. It
lies on the north-west of the long ridge called Hameldown, whose
highest point, Hameldown Tor, overlooks Grimspound from the
south. Along this ridge, 3 miles southwards, is reached Widdecomhe
(p. 158). The valley itself is many hundred feet above sea-level,
but when seen from the surrounding heights presents a com-
paratively fertile appearance. Hence a lane leads back to the
main highway, by which Grimspound is some 8 miles from Moreton
Hampstead.

On the direct road, two miles or so beyond the Warren
House, after obtaining a fine view to the north, we begin to
descend to cultivation again. At Bector Cross — where a
cross once stood, now removed — 3 miles short of Moreton
Hampstead, our road crosses that from Chagford to Ashburton,
and brings us upon the more varied borders of the moorland,
where still we are several hundred feet above the sea.
Crossing the Bovey stream we come down to Moreton
Hampstead (p. 160), before dealing with which let us turn to
Ashburton.

Two Bridges to Ashburton (12 miles). — This road
turns off to the right, continuing the Tavistock road in
almost a straight line. On its south side the bends of the
accompanying West Dart would keep one from wandering
far. About a mile down, its Blackahrook tributary from the
east leads back to the Princetown road, as 2 or 3 miles
farther, the Swincomhe, a good angling stream, flowing from the

TO ASHBURTON BY DARTMEET 153

south-west, would be a guide towards Nun's Cross (p. 148).
Between them, nearly 2 miles out, the road crosses the
Cherry Brook from the north, up which, in a couple of miles,
one could strike to the Moreton Hampstead road, or might
take into it a longer line a little farther east over Believer Tor
(1450) and other heights dotted with hut circles and kistvaens.
Believer {alias Bellaford) Tor is celebrated for a popular meet
that signals the last day of hare-hunting, soon after Easter.

Less than a mile beyond Cherry Brook, south of Believer
Tor, the road brings us by Dennabridge Pound, where a
curious stone structure is said to be the "Judge's Chair,"
brought from the meeting-place of the Stannary Parliament
on Crockern Tor ; and at Dennabridge Farm, not far off, a
large slab is shown as the Council Table. The Pound itself,
though originally perhaps a sacred circle, has been rebuilt
in modern times and adapted to a practical purpose in the
periodical " drifts," when the ponies and cattle are driven
together from a whole quarter of the moor, that stray
animals may be sorted out and restored to their owners,
a ceremony graphically described in Mr. Baring-Gould's
"Urith."

In less than 2 miles, the road, falling from a height of
over 1000 feet, gives off branches, right and left, as a token
that we are getting out of the wilds ; and patches of culti-
vation show man struggling to gain ground against the
reluctance of nature. That to the right, crossing the West
Dart at Hexworthy, where old Forest Inn seems to be
renovating itself, leads in about 5 miles to Holne (p. 159),
and thus by a slight round to Ashburton or to Buckfastleigh
(p. 155). The main road drops steeply down to Dartmeet
Bridge, where at last we leave the vast moorland parish of
Lydford.

The confluence of the East and West Dart here is one of the
notable nooks of Dartmoor, though for want of wood it makes not
such a fine scene as the famous Watersmeet above Lynmouth.
Up the East Dart the pedestrian might turn a little way, if only
for a bathe in one of its pools, or a climb to Far Tor (1300 feet)
on its left bank. If he held on up it for 3 or 4 miles, at the
Cyclopean Bridge of Believer, he would strike a road leading
eastward to Widdecomhe (p. 158), or in a couple of miles more the

154 DARTMOOR

stream would take him across the Moreton Hampstead road at
Post Bridge (p. 151).

From Dartmeet to Ashburton is nearly 8 miles by
Poundsgate, New Bridge^ and Holne Bridge, a most beautiful
route, where moorland and woodland mingle their contrasted
charms. But as most visitors here have Ashburton as their
starting-point, it seems best to transfer our centre to that
town, and thence to trace the broken features of Dartmoor's
eastern side, before coming round to Moreton Hampstead.

ASHBURTON

From Plymouth or Exeter. — Ashburton lies on the
best road between these two places, 20 miles from the
latter, over Haldon Hill and by Ghudleigh (p. 50), 24
miles from the former by Ivy Bridge (p. 98), South Brent
(p. 97), and Buckfastleigh (p. 155), coming round the south
side of the moor, and rising, beyond Brent, to the height
of some hundreds of feet above the South Hams, where it
crosses more than one hill stream.

Between South Brent and Dean (see below) a straighter and
higher loop passing by Brent Hill may be taken by pedestrians,
who might also strike north up the Avon over Brent Moor,
and from its headwaters turn east by the "Sandy Way" along
Holne Ridge to Holne (p. 159), or some 3 miles above Brent track
the Abbot's "Way in the same direction to Buckfastleigh. Holne
Moor they would find being cut up by a new Reservoir for Paignton.

Totnes to Ashburton is a road of 8 miles, mounting the
valley of the Lower Dart, and keeping near the railway
branch, which we may take as our main guide here. This
road joins that from Plymouth near Buckfastleigh (see below)
2 miles out of Ashburton.

Rail to Ashburton. — The G. W. R. branch goes off
at Totnes, passing, as shown in our Torquay section (p. 85),
by Hartington and Staverton, about which will be seen
several picturesque bridges and probably a few anglers
mid-leg in the Dart, now a lowland river. The scenery
of the valley is so pretty, that one is surprised, a few miles
up it, to find a small manufacturing town lying among hills.

BUCKFASTLEIGH 155

This is Buckfastleigh (King's Arms), a place of some 5000
people, busy in making serges and blankets, once famous
for its rich Abbey, from which, as has been mentioned,
a way ran across the moor to that of Tavistock. The wool
industry is of old date here, seeming to have been carried
on by the monks.

The Church, perched up on high, is attained by a flight of
more than 100 steps. The well-worn legend runs that it was
placed here out of the reach of the devil, who had a troublesome
habit of undoing every night the work accomplished by the builders
during the day. The building, which has the distinction of a
spire, is Early English in style, but with later additions and
alterations. In the churchyard stand several tombs of the black
marble quarried here, and a small chantry covering the daisied
graves of Admiral White and his wife.

A mile above the town, on a grassy slope which stretches down
to the Dart, are the barn, some ancient walls, and an original
tower and gateway of Biuckfastleigh Abbey, a Cistercian house,
refounded in 1137 by Ethelward de Pomeroy, on the site of an
ancient Saxon Benedictine one. It was suppressed in 1538, and
after passing through various hands eventually sank into decay.
Out of its ruins were built a large factory and several of the
village houses. In 1882 the site of the Abbey, with the ground
immediately surrounding it, was purchased on behalf of a com-
munity of Benedictine monks, then recently expelled from France,
by whom the modern structure has been taken down, the
foundations of the old buildings being excavated ; and the Abbey,
like a phoenix restored from its ashes, is now the residence of a
flourishing modern monastic community. The four-storied Tower,
in the west angle, is one of the original buildings, known as
the "Abbot's Tower."

Though Buckfastleigh be not a very attractive place in
itself, there is some fine scenery about it

Dean. — A mile or so south-west, on the Plymouth high road,
comes Dean Court, an old seat of the Giles family. Herrick, the
poet, was appointed to the vicarage by Charles I., and here he
wrote the greater part of his Hesperides. He was not at first
enchanted with his rude parishioners, but learnt to appreciate
them better, and to take delight in their ancient customs, as his
verses show. Driven out of his living by the Puritans, he returned
at the Restoration to spend his last years in more peace and con-
tentment, dying 1674. There is a handsome brass to his memory
in the Church, nearly a mile south of Dean Court. To the west

156 DARTMOOR

is Dean Burn^ a romantic glen, brightened by a stream which
leaps over the crags in several shimmering waterfalls.

Two miles north-west of Buckfastleigh, on the west side of the
Dart, is Hembury Castle, an oblong Danish entrenchment, finely-
overlooking the Dart, which almost circles it round to Holne.

Buckfastleigh is the nearest station for Holne (p. 159), by which
one could make a short cut into the Two Bridges Road.

Beyond Buckfastleigh the line turns east from the Dart,
following its little tributary the Yeo to Ashburton, on the
edge of the moor.

Ashburton (Golden Lion, London, etc)., an ancient borough,
Stannary, and market-town, of 3000 inhabitants, once noted
for its fulling-mills, now eclipsed in cloth making by
Buckfastleigh, takes its name from the small river Yeo,
anciently known as the Ashhurn. It stands in a hollow,
sheltered from cold winds, its four streets meeting at the
" Bull Ring," to which bulls are no longer tied, but cyclists
take it as a sign for baiting.

The Parish Church of St. Andrew, restored a few years
back, is a fine Perpendicular building, with a Transition
Norman porch. It contains a monument in memory of
John Dunning, first Lord Ashburton, with an inscription
by Dr. Johnson. The ancient Chapel of St. Lawrence,
near the railway station, is now used as a Grammar School.
Ashburton's most celebrated native was perhaps William
Gifford, the first editor of the Quarterly Review, and its most
stirring historical memory the marching through of Fairfax's
army in 1646. Its great attraction to strangers is the
neighbourhood of the finest river scenery of the Dart,
bordered by Dartmoor heights, through which pleasure
drives are organised in summer. Mr. Anthony TroUope
emphatically declared this to be the most beautiful corner
of England.

No part of Dartmoor is more traversed by coaches than
the rugged country lying between Ashburton and the
railway branch from Newton Abbot to Moreton Hampstead.
Here we will only mention the round of 10 miles or so to
Bovey Tracey station, past BucJcland Beacon (see below) and

A8HBURT0N 167

by Hay Tor, nearly 1500 feet high, crowned by the largest
mass of rocks on Dartmoor, its double head commanding a
grand view southwards that takes in the towns of Torquay,
Teignmouth, Chudleigh, Newton Abbot, and Totnes. The
Rock Inn is an old halting-place ; now two hotels are about to
be opened here' {Moorlands^ below the height, and Hay Tor at
Ilsington, a mile or so towards Newton Abbot), so that this lofty
corner of the moor aspires to the new fame of a health resort,
and the road by it will be less than ever lonely in summer,
when so many coaches ply on rounds that take in Manaton
(p. 162), the Becky Falls (p. 162), Widdecomhe (p. 15 8), the Dart
Valley, etc. Between Buckland Beacon and Hay Tor is
Bippon Tor (1564 feet), with its Logan Stone, 4 miles due
north of Ashburton, the first stage of the straightest way being
up the course of the Yeo.

Two miles west of the town, above the picturesque Holne
Bridge, the Dart makes a long bend round the bold pro-
montory of Holne Chace. The beautifully-wooded horse-
shoe glen is occupied on both sides by private grounds, through
which the defile winds round 4 miles from Holne Bridge, at
the Ashburton end, to New Bridge, the road cutting across
between these points being not half as long.

The Buckland Drives, on the left bank, are closed, we under-
stand, except twice a week to driving parties. Holne Chace is
open to carriages %,nd pedestrians on Tuesdays, Thursdays,
Saturdays, and Bank Holidays in the summer months. Both
are, or used to be, shut to cyclists, and above all to those
whose errand is fishing, here strictly preserved. In autumn,
especially, the glorious tints of masses of mingled foliage so admir-
ably displayed on the rocky heights through which the river
curves its way, make such a spectacle as few landlords would keep
altogether to themselves. On the Buckland side a crag bears the
fame of the Lover's Leap, a sheer rock naturally suggesting the
good old story so often told of such features. On the heights of
Holne Chace, not far from Holne Bridge, might be found a curious
camp of concealment, which commonly escapes the notice even of
guide-books. It has a perfect fosse, 30 to 40 feet wide, with an
agger inside ; and the south-west entrance is so constructed as to
expose an assailant to missiles for more than 20 yards after enter-
ing the work.

158 DARTMOOR

Above the elbow of the river's bend is Buckland-on-tlie-
Moor, about 4 miles from Ashburton by road, with Buckland
Beacon (1260 feet) to ascend on the right of it for a grand
view southwards over the richest reaches of the Dart. The
little bridge which spans the trout stream in the middle of
the village is picturesquely situated amidst woodland and
park scenery, the ancient Church being entirely surrounded
by trees. Below, on the west side, runs the Webburn, a
lovely brook, down which one can gain the Dart in a short
mile, then keeping up it about as far cross at New Bridge, 4
miles from Ashburton. Or, opposite Buckland, we might
gain the rocks of Luesdon, and by the Church here cross
over into the Two Bridges road.

The Webburn is formed by two branches, east and west,
joining above Buckland. Up the former, or by winding
road, 3 miles north, stands Widdecombe Church, known as
the Cathedral of Dartmoor, a fine fane indeed for such a
lonely situation, and much too large for its congregation.
It is said to have been originally built by tin miners as a
thank-offering in the 15th century.

The battlemented tower, which is its chief glory, will recall
that of Magdalen College, Oxford. There are some brasses inside
and fragments of a fine screen. Outside stands a venerable yew,
and a row of ancient almshouses make up a good part of the
village. The neighbourhood has a bad name for thunder-storms ;
a notorious one in 1638 seriously damaged the tower, as may
still be seen, and as is recorded in some quaint lines by the village
dominie, displayed on a board on the wall. Four of the congrega-
tion were killed and many injured by this catastrophe, which of
course gave rise to grim legends of diabolic agency.

Widdecombe-in-the- Moors is the full style and pronunciation of
this place, where we are well on Dartmoor. It has its " Old Inn,"
and in the vicinity is, or was, the "South Devon Sports" Hotel,
with shooting and fishing for its guests. Another hotel proposed
near Buckland has for the present come to nought.

From Widdecombe the pedestrian can hold on in various
directions to spots elsewhere described — by a side road westwards,
which joins the Princetown-Moreton Hampstead road at Merripit
Hill (p. 152) ; north by Hamddown^ past Ghrims'pound (p. 152),
into the same road, and so to Moreton Hampstead by a round of
nearly 20 miles in all from Ashburton ; north-eastward to Manaton
and Lustleigh Cleave above Lustleigh Station ; or eastward to
Bovey Tracey by Hay Tor (p. 161). Space forbids us to make

ASHBURTON 169

these by-ways plain ; but with a good map and good weather there
should be no going astray.

On the other side of the Dart, strangers should know
that Holne village, 2 miles from the bridge, was the
birthplace of Charles Kingsley. It stands loftily on a ridge
close to the moor, where a prominent landmark is the high
clump of trees known as Gallantry Bower. Buckfastleigh
(p. 155) is a little the nearest station by the devious lanes
of this district. Holne's 13th-century Church contains a
painted screen and old armorial pulpit worth seeing, as well
as a memorial window to Kingsley ; and there is a venerable
hollow yew in the churchyard. Close to it the Church
House makes a cosy inn, frequented by anglers.

Holne is rather farther from the bridge of its name than from
New Bridge, to which there is a beautiful walk down the wooded
heights edging the Dart, up the course of which, also (on Mondays,
Wednesdays, and Fridays), the way through the woods is open to
Dart^neet (p. 153). A road, keeping on the high ground, leads us
on by Hexworthy Bridge over the West Dart, in about 5 miles
striking the main road from Ashburton to Two Bridges. This
junction takes place beyond Dartmeet, to which, however, from
Holne we can bear to the right across the moor.

Ashburton to Two Bridges (12 m.). — This road is
the backbone of the divagations we have been making
about it. Beyond Holne Chace, at New Bridge, it begins
to climb upon the moor proper, where a short cut may
be made on foot across a bend to the right. The view
backwards on the Dart and Holne ridge must by no
means be forgotten. Higher up the ascent, on the left, goes
off a turf way leading finely above the gorge of the river,
and curving back into the road a mile or more on, beyond
Poundsgate. This small hamlet has an unpretending
hostelry, which we must make the best of, as it is the last
we shall find on the way, though refreshments can be had
at a house by Dartmeet. To the right stands Luesdon Church
(p. 158) ; to the left rises a prominent tor, which might be
ascended for its prospect into the Dart Valley, and a ramble
on its west side would show several rock basins. Two miles

160 DARTMOOR

farther, the river is crossed at Dartrmet (p. 153), from which
the rest of the way has been described.

MORETON HAMPSTEAD

The railway route to this moorland town makes a round
from Plymouth, the branch going off at Newton Ahhot, which
comes into our Exeter Section (p. 62). Moreton is 12 miles
from Exeter by road and about 29 from the centre of
Plymouth by Princetown and Two Bridges, which is the
shortest line.

Rail to Moreton Hampstead — From Newton Ahhot
Junction the branch line passes up the valley of the Teign,
then that of its tributary the Bovey_, shut in by wooded and
heathy heights, that also fix the course of the road. As we
go out beside the course of the canal, on a height to the left
appears Sampford Audley, which was the home of Sir S.
Baker, the traveller. The first station is Teigngrace, with
its church spire, a distinction in this land of towers. To
the left lies Stover Park, a demesne of the Duke of
Somerset, containing a good -sized lake that makes the joy
of skaters, when any skating can be had in Devonshire.
Two miles farther comes Heathfield Junction, where the
branch to Chudleigh (p. 50) goes off up the Teign, while
that to Moreton Hampstead turns up the Bovey. By this
station crosses the high road from Exeter, through Chudleigh,
to Ashburton (p. 156).

Heathfield is remarkable for its thick bed of lignite clay and
sand which formed the basin of a now dry lake, and embalms the
remains of many plants indicating a sub-tropical climate, notably
fragments of the sequoia pine now found only in California, while
in the superimposed clay are traces of Arctic vegetation from a
much colder period. Fine potter's clay is got here, turned to
account in the Bovey Tracey Potteries, which will presently be seen
beside the line, and may be visited from Bovey for a sight of the
ornamental ware produced at them.

Bovey Tracey (Hotels : Dolphin, Railway, Union, etc.).
This quiet town of some 2000 people is the best known

MORETON HAMPSTEAD DISTRICT

BOVEY TRACEY 161

way station on the branch, since here in summer start two
sets of circular coach excursions, varied daily, so arranged as
to allow passengers from Exeter, Torquay, etc., to visit the
best parts of the moor and return in the evening (for hours
and routes, see bills and G. W. R. time-tables). But Bovvey^
as it is pronounced, lying on a green slope over the valley
of its stream, within an hour's walk of wilder scenes, will
be found well worth a visit on its own account. It has
an historical interest in Cromwell's night surprise of Lord
Wentworth at what seems such an out-of-the-way spot.

The station is close to the two chief hotels, by which
comes in the main road from Newton Abbot (6 miles), pass-
ing the new Church, built by the Courtenay family, prettily
placed among trees, and richly decorated with modern
ecclesiastical art. At the hotels the road turns up to the
town, where past a tall old cross, restored and re-erected
here, one holds on, right, to the old Church, a Perpendicular
one carefully restored, which replaced an earlier structure
said to have been an expiatory offering of Sir William
Tracey, one of Becket's murderers. It has a good screen
and pulpit. Another old cross has been restored in front of
it as a memorial to a former incumbent. Beyond are the
grounds of the Devon House of Mercy, where good women
try to reclaim their fallen sisters.

From the church there is a view over the valley, which may
be extended by keeping farther on the road to Chudleigh, or
mounting the lane just short of the church. This leads up to a
height about 850 feet, from which we can look over into the Teign
Valley. Two miles north here stands Hennock, whose church has
a screen and old stained glass to show. Near it the Bottor Bock
is a view-point often visited by those sound in lung and limb,
for on driving parties here, able-bodied passengers are expected
to do a good deal of walking. Half an hour's walk from Hennock
brings one down to Trusham station (p. 51) on the Teign Valley
line. Shaptor Rock is another point to be sought out a mile west
of Hennock.

The chief excursions are on the Dartmoor side of the valley.
Three or four miles westward rises one of the most famous points
of this region, Hay Tor (p. 157), a main goal in most of the coach
excursions. Hence a round of 10 miles takes one on below

11

162 ^ DARTMOOR

Buckland Beacon (1260 feet), overlooking the rich scenery of the
Dart, to Ashburton, terminus of the branch from Totnes (p. 154).

Lustleigh (Hotels : Cleave, Temperance) is the station 3
miles farther up, for which from the high road, a mile out
of Bovey Tracey, one must turn down to the left for a bridge
over the stream, that might also have been crossed at the
station. From Lustleigh also, of late years, regular excur-
sions have been run to Dartmoor in connection with the
mid-day train. Its lion is the Cleave, a hollow in the
heights that rise upon the course of the Bovey to the west
of the village. The Church is an ancient one with some
interesting remains, and a good screen, such as is a frequent
feature of churches about Dartmoor.

Lustleigh Cleave may be reached in half an hour's walk from
the station (but most pedestrians will take longer) by the path
along the line, then between the two hotels to the open space
before the Church, whence our goal is very visible ; here go down
hill, taking the lane to the right beyond a smithy, and at once
turning up by a Baptist chapel. A very Devonshire lane leads
up through a farm to the wild glen, above which the ridge bristles
with crags, boulders, and rocky piles, forming a scene that has
been compared to the famous Lynton Valley of Rocks. Two
logan-stones here are known as the Nutcrackers, by which a path
runs on to Horsham Steps, where the stream almost vanishes
among masses of granite. Across the glen will be seen the tower
of Manaton Church, the centre of a picturesque hamlet (inn), some
3 miles from Lustleigh, if one could go straight to it, but a little
more by the track over the north side of the glen and round by
Horsham Steps. The wooded rocks of Manaton Tor behind should
be climbed for the view, opposite which will be noticed the tall
pile of granite rocks known as Bowerman's Nose, so like a human
figure that it has been taken for a Druidical idol. Beyond the
latter Hound's Tor is crowned by what seem ruined walls of rocks ;
and thence to the south are seen the masses of Hay Tor.

A good mile south of Manaton a wooded ravine contains the
much visited Becky Falls, a most picturesquely broken cascade,
from which it is about 4 miles to the station at Bovey Tracey,
and as far back to Lustleigh.

Over the heights east of Lustleigh, also, a fine walk may be
taken to the course of the Beadon Brook, then on to the sheets of
the Torquay Reservoirs, beyond which another hour would lead
to Ashton station in the Teign Valley (p. 62).

From Lustleigh, between lofty green heights, the railway

MORETON HAMPSTEAD 163

climbs up to Moreton Hampstead, setting down its passengers
below the old Cburch.

Moreton Hampstead (Hotels : TVhite Hart, White Horse)
is a little market town of some two to three thousand people,
with Morton (Moortown) for its week-day name. It is prettily
and airily situated on the east edge of the moor, among
partly reclaimed heights. The road coming in from Exeter
and from Newton Abbot enters by the Church, and a little
beyond, at the central knot of ways (one coming up from
the station, below), forks left for Two Bridges, right for
Chagford and Okehampton.

The Church has no special interest beyond its conspicuous
position and some tablets, one of which reminds us that this was
the birthplace of George Bidder, the "calculating boy," who
differed from other precocious arithmeticians in carrying his talent
usefully into after life. On the east side of the church is a public
park called the Sentry, i.e. "Sanctuary," in which by the church-
yard wall stand the remains of an ancient cross, and a vigorous
but venerable elm-tree, whose branches were formerly so trimmed
and disposed as to support a platform for dancers. The musicians
were perched up in the higher bouglis, and the dancers ascended
to their leaf-embowered salon by means of a ladder. This tree
and the neighbourhood generally are renowned in Mr. Blackmore's
Christowell. The arcade of the 17th-century Almshouse below
the church is also noticeable.

The chief excursion to be taken from Moreton is by
the coaches running over the moorland route traced above.
There are many pleasant rambles around it in a half wild
country of bold hill and dale.

The way on the north of the church goes up to Mardon Down
(1170 feet), half an hour's walk, on which are a Hut Circle and
the site of a "Giant's Grave." Over this one can descend into
the Teign Valley, and by it in a few devious miles come down to
the railway whose present terminus is at Ashton (from Newton
Abbot), but which should soon be pushed on to Exeter (p. 52).

The by-road turning south, just beyond that coming up to the
hotel from the station, leads in a couple of crooked miles to North
Bovey, whose high perched church looks over the Bovey valley.
Thence a few miles' vi^alk takes us on southward to the charms of
LiLstleigh Cleave, Manaton, the Becky Falls, etc. (p. 162).

1 64 DARTMOOR

The road going out north-westward to Chagford has soon a

branch on the right, where a post directs to Dartmoor View. This
is the name of a lodging-house, but by this way the curious square
guide-posts of the district would keep us from losing the road to
Drewsteignton, which, down the steep descent of CranhrooJc Castle,
brings us over Fingle Bridge (see below), or one might turn left
to Chagford from the height where it comes into view.

There are several ways to Chagford by the winding lanes that
make the beauty of this country. The main road (5 miles) takes a
bend by Easton, which the pedestrian may save by the straighter
and rougher way going off left, at a white cottage, two miles out.
This way reaches Chagford by the Church ; the other comes in
past the Teign Bridge and the Moor Park Hotel.

CHAGFORD.

Hotels : Moor Park, Globe, Three Crowns, King's Arms, etc.
Pensions : Meldon Hall, Quarries, etc.

This place — for the present disappointed of, or, as its
warmest admirers might say, delivered from, a proposed
railway branch — is reached by omnibus three times a day
from Moreton Hampstead Station (G. W. R.), and by less
frequent conveyances meeting certain L. & S.-W. R. trains
(see time-tables) at the more distant stations of Okehampton
and Yeoford. Loftily placed against a background of moor,
surrounded by mingled charms of highland and lowland
scenery, it stands high among the choice resorts of Devon,
its chief attraction being the upper waters of the Teign,
here a romantic stream, with grand gorges both above and
below Chagford. This was the home of Mr. Perrott, the
well-known Dartmoor guide, whose sons are still ready to
accompany strangers into out-of-the-way nooks, and to
supply them with advice and tackle for angling, which on
the Upper Teign is free.

The Church is a stately 15th century one, with stained glass,
brasses, and an Elizabethan monument. In the porch of the Three
Crowns, close by, young Sydney Godolphin was killed in a hot
fight of the Civil War, which raged up to this secluded spot.
There are some other old buildings in the place, such as the
Church House, now a school ; but the thatched mill so often
sketched no longer exists except on canvas.

THE TEIGN VALLEY 165

Here we are in the midst, not only of fine scenery, but
of traces from the pre-historic past which make Chagford a
centre for the antiquarian as well as for artistic visitors.

Fingle Bridge, about 5 miles down the Teign, is the chief
lion of the neighbourhood. For this cross the river by the
bridge below Moor Park Hotel. On the wooded hill above
the left side peeps out a Belvidere Tower, that may be
reached from Eushford Mill, sl little farther on, where also
one can take the lower path by the river. On the road
presently comes Sandy Park, with its inn and a way leading
down to the bridge for Easton. The road goes on to
Drewsteignton (see below), beyond which a turning, right,
leads to the bridge ; but the pedestrian has a choice of two
paths near the river.

The gorge is best gained by holding on the road for about
two miles, to where it turns away from the river over a level
stretch, then at the next rise, just across a little stream, a path
doubles back over rough land to a wicket gate. Thus one mounts
to the Hunter's Path along the top of the gorge, on this side
heather clad and crowned with firs, while the other is mantled
with the copsewood of Whyddon Park. The lower path will be
seen below. The windings of the river make a fine sight from the
upper path, on which comes a reputed logan - stone. After
following this for a mile one comes into sight of the lonely bridge,
and can descend to the lower path, or keeping on above the
wooded bank, and some little way up the side valley, may turn
less abruptly down into the lane from Drewsteignton, which crosses
the bridge.

This picturesque old bridge has not a dwelling in sight, buried
as it is in the deep gorge of the Teign. Above, on the left bank,
rises Prestonbury, and on the right Cranbrook Castle, both the
sites of ancient camps, about 1000 feet high. Lower down, 2 miles,
comes another height, called Wooston Castle. All these offer
steep scrambles and fine views.

A rough path down the river, or road on the heights above,
lead on in about half-a-dozen miles to the Teign Valley railway,
the nearest village being DuTisford, about 5 miles from Fingle
Bridge (p. 52).

Across the bridge, the way mounting south through
the woods of Cranbrook Castle has a guide-post at the top
showing how to turn left for Dunsford, right for Moreton

166 ^ DARTMOOR

Ham'pstead, here about 3 miles off. On the latter way soon
comes another post, where the right fork would take us by
this side of the river back to Chagford, now in view against
its background of moorland slope.

The lane northwards from the bridge leads up to the
road we left, where a little nearer Chagford comes Drews-
teignton, with its high perched Church and " Druid Inn."

Over 2 miles west of this, and rather farther north from
Chagford, are Bradmere Pool, and near it the Spinster's
Bock, notable as the only cromlech left standing in Devon,
which indeed fell down, but was restored in 1862, This
monument is close to Shilstone Farm, between the road
leading west from Drewsteignton to JVhyddon Down, and
the high road from Moreton Hampstead that farther on
converges with it.

Behind Chagford there are beautiful walks on to Dart-
moor, which opens little more than a mile off, reached by
approaches oddly named Holy Street and Featherbed Lane.
On this side we go up the Teign, here dividing into north
and south branches, near a perforated tolmen stone. Be-
tween them rises Castor {alias Kes Tor) (1433 feet), on the
top of which is the largest Dartmoor rock basin, that has had
to be railed in to prevent sheep from falling into it.

Beyond Castor can be traced for 2 miles one of the most re-
markable groups of antiquities, remains of stone avenues stretching
from Fernworthy Circle near the south branch (not far from the
Greywethers which we visited on the way to Moreton Hampstead,
p. 151) to Scorhill Circle on the North Teign, where some two
dozen stones still stand to make the finest of such enclosures on
the moor. This is usually spoken of as the Gidleigh Group, from
its vicinity to the tiny village of Gidleigh, 2 ra. from Chagford
through the rugged and leafy gorge of the river. Here are a
Church and the relics of a Norman Castle to be visited, as well as
beautiful bits on the river. The Park, we understand, is closed
to strangers, but from the Puggie or Pixie stone on the road to Gid-
leigh there is a view into its chasm of wild greenery. Lanes lead
on hence northwards to the road for Okehampton ; and if one
would venture westward to Cranmere Pool (p. 150) it is about 9
miles off ; but a guide is desirable.

ROUND CAWSAND 167

To the south of Chagford, by Meldon Hill (1000 feet),
a fairly straight way leads in 4 miles to the high road for
Two Bridges, reached about 5 miles out of Moreton. But
we cannot linger on all the truly Devonian lanes of this
district, which is rather too much overshadowed by warnings
to trespassers ; so let us take our way onwards round the
north-eastern corner of the moor.

Chagford to Okehampton (10 miles). — To the northern
border town the road sweeps round cairn-crowned Cawsand
Beacon (1799 feet), one of the points which used to claim
the dignity of being monarch of Dartmoor. Here we are
among scenery and relics famed in Mr. Baring-Gould's John
Herring J and near the seat of the Oxenham family, com-
memorated in Westward Ho! This lies a mile off, north,
near South Tawton, with its fine restored church, past which,
by the Taw valley, a road goes off to the lowlands.

At the village of South Zeal, with its old Oxenham Inn and tall
cross, a little to the right of our road, one has Cawsand (pronounced
Cosdon) a good mile to the south. Those who wish to make their
way over it might have taken a rougher road north from Gidleigh
by the fine Church tower of Throwleigh, beyond which one can
strike across the moor to Cawsand, here dotted by hut circles and
old stones ; a bright green patch of bog makes a danger signal on
the south-east side. In fine weather the cairn commands a magni-
ficent view over the rugged lowland country to the north, as on
the heights of Dartmoor, and southward to the sea.

Beyond Cawsand is struck the Taw, crossing the high
road at the picturesque village of Sticklepath {Taw
River Hotel), well known to anglers, with its Lady Well and
mysteriously inscribed stone, which marks the edge of the
moor. This also makes a good point for the ascent of
Cawsand, and beautiful rambles can be taken both up and
down the river, and over heights scarred by the signs of
former mining activity. The traveller on wheels now bears
westward round the moorland edge (a little over 3 miles to
Okehampton), but the free foot may turn aside for a more
arduous course.

At least one should go a mile or two up Belstone Cleave, through
which the Taw comes down to Sticklepath. Where it makes a

168 DARTMOOR

bold bend north, 2 miles north-west of Cawsand, above the left
bank, stands Belstone, nearly 1000 feet high, a village with an
ancient Church and a small Inn, more prosperous once through its
abandoned mine. To the south of this stretches a line of tors
dividing the Taw from the East Okement. On the west side of
the ridge, a sliort mile south of Belstone, is the small circle called
the Nine Stones, to which is attached that oft-repeated legend of
maidens turned to stone for dancing on Sunday. Both history
and arithmetic seem at fault here, for the stones number sixteen,
and surely, when such legends grew up, going to a dissenting
chapel would count as a more serious offence than Sunday dancing.
Descending into the East Okement glen (p. 169) one might hence
follow it down to Okehampton, the less adventurous course being
to take lanes above from Belstone, or a short mile of road leading
direct into the highway 2| miles out of Okehampton.

When the rivers are not in flood, the pedestrian should find no
difficulty in holding round the edge of the moor from Chagford
to Okehampton, having always the choice of bearing right to come
down into the high road.

- OKEHAMPTON

Hotel : White Hart, Plume of Feathers, Meecham's Temperance, etc.

This is a place of about the same size as those we have
just visited on the other sides of Dartmoor, and one which
by no means deserves the ill words Charles Kingsley throws
it in some fit of cross humour. High above, on the very
edge of the moor, stands the railway station {Refreshment
room), from which we look down on the town, displayed
perhaps more picturesquely than healthily in a hollow below.
On the long slopes between, however, are growing up airily-
placed houses, showing how Okehampton prospers as a resort
for strangers and sojourners, among whom anglers are well
represented. As in the case of Tavistock, let us remember
that this valley, where the West and East Okement meet so
eagerly, is higher above the sea than might be supposed.
Prominent among its woods, just below the town, is the
modern mansion of Oaklands. The Oke in the name of
these rivers is of different origin, understood to be an alias
of the often recurring Exe, Axe, Usk, etc. Okehampton is,
or used to be, noted for its " Christmas wife market."

OKEHAMPTON 169

Descending to the main street by a long zigzag road, we
find here a Chapel -of- Ease so dignified that it might be
taken for the Parish Church, which stands on the hill
opposite, approached by a fine beech Avenue. Both
buildings are chiefly modern, the old church having been
destroyed by fire, all but the tower. The thoroughfare
formed by the junction of roads up the river and down
from Chagford, at the new church broadens into a little
Market Place, where are the chief shops and hotels, and
on the left an Arcade running across into the way from
the station. Across the West Okement, at the farther end,
goes out the road to Tavistock. Below the station the
steep slopes of the East Okement hardly needed laying out
to be a fine Public Garden.

The best rambles on to the moor are made by the course
of these two rivers and on the heights between them. In
summer ocasional driving trips are run from the hotel.

Up the East Okement one gets almost at once into a wild glen,
crossed by a viaduct to the east of the station. This may be
gained from the Public Garden, or by a path going off at the
Masonic Hall on the way down from the station. About 2 miles
up, stepping-stones will be found below Halstock on the left bank,
where the wooded course of the river makes a pretty "water-slide,"
and the Moor Brook comes down through a deep cleave. Above
the right bank is Belstone (p. 168), from which one might descend
into the Taw Yalley and down to the road at Sticklepath (p. 167),
a round of some 7 miles. Who is not afraid of boggy bottoms
might follow the East Okement due south to its source on
Okement Hill (1875 feet), about 2 miles to the north of
Cranmere Pool (p. 150), and where Steeperton Tor (1740 feet), to
the north-east, guides us to the Taw, wliich runs only a mile or
two east of the Okement Glen.

The West Okement at first offers a less arduous course. Half
a mile up it, on the left bank, stand the ivy-clad ruins of Oke-
hampton Castle on a wooded knoll, a square keep six centuries old,
and remains of later buildings, the chapel being in the best
preservation. A small charge is made for admission. It may be
reached by the high road following the river on the same side, and
by turning down the bank through the wood, or by a path on the
other side crossing a bridge.

Holding on up the river for a couple of miles, one comes to the
gorge formed by the Meldon Viaduct of the L. & S.-W. R., one of
the finest among the defiles by which the Dartmoor waters escape

170 ^ DARTMOOR

northwards ; and below Black Tor the river is broken by a wild
" Island of Rocks." Hence one might follow its devious course
to the source in Cranmere Pool, for which Mr. Page recommends
rather the ridge between the two Okements, swelling up into Yes
Tor.

On the right bank of the "West Okement, above the town, the
old Chase of the Castle is still known as Okehampton Park, a wild
slope dotted by hollies and hawthorns, which here fringes the
moor, divided from it by a wall. Above this is a camp for artillery
practice, the red flags of which are not to be disregarded in our
wanderings, nor the notices published through the neighbourhood
of the times and places of danger. Through the Park, or more
easily, from the station by cart road past Dartmoor Gate to the
stream at its foot, it is 4 or 5 miles to the top of Yes Tor (2028 feet),
distinguished by an artillery flagstafif. This, if by a few feet not
officially recognised as the highest point of the moor, may be
practically taken as such for the sake of its grand outlook. " Like
a map beneath lies the whole northern district of Devon, dotted
with villages, each clustering about a grey church tower." The
culminating point is High Willhayes (2039 feet), a projection of
Yes Tor, a short mile to the south, crowned by a beacon like a
round tower, from which there is a prospect over the boggy heart
of Dartmoor, Cranmere Pool being about 3 miles off to the south-
east. Two miles south-west would take one over the West
Okement, then the ridge of Amicomhe Hill (1920 feet), to the Peat
Works behind Great Links Tor (p. 172), from which a mineral
railway line makes a safe if rather devious guide (5 miles) down to
Bridestowe, whose L. & S.-W. R. station lies about 3 miles due
west.

Down the Okement from the town there is a lovely walk on the
left bank through the grounds of Oaklands, if one can get leave,
and this may be continued to Brightley Bridge (2 miles), where
the high road crosses from the right bank. Near the bridge is
a fragment of Brightley Priory, whose inmates migrated to the
richer Forde Abbey, near Axminster.

We must return presently to Okehampton for an account
of its railway communications ; but first let us complete our
circuit of Dartmoor by going on to Lydford, 1 0 miles by road
or rail. This is such a scattered place that Bridestowe
(pron. Briddistow) station is as near the Okehampton end of
it as its own station, the latter a mile beyond the other end,
close to the famous glen of the river. The high road to
Tavistock leaves Lydford a little on the right ; one must

LYDFORD 171

turn down from the moor edge at the Dartmoor Inn ; then
through Lydford, one can take another way to Tavistock by
Brent Tor (p. 138).

LYDFORD

Manor Hotel, near the station ; Castle, in the village ; Lydford House, nearer
Bridestowe. There are other small inns and lodgings much run upon in
summer.

This village, township, group of hamlets, we hardly
know how to call it, only needs more accommodation to
become a popular health resort, being agreeably situated
several hundred feet above the sea, where cultivated land
and woods begin to mingle with the wilds of the moor, one
of whose many beautiful streams gives Lydford its name.
In Saxon times it was a walled town with a mint, and till
Stuart days retained some degree of importance, as the
parish that included the whole of Dartmoor Forest, with
the largest acreage (over 50,000) and the thinnest population
(3000) of any parish in England. Traces of the Lyhe-ioay,
by which corpses were brought across the moor to its church,
may still be found. Church-going is now facilitated by
chapelries at Princetown and elsewhere, but the mother
parish still claims allegiance as far as Dartmeet, 16 miles
away.

As has been already hinted, the village is scattered
over some two miles about the course of the Lyd, having
its centre a mile or more from the station, on a road
from Brent Tor running on to Okehampton, which, at the
farther end, joins the high road coming through St. Mary
Tavy. This central point is distinguished by the Castle
and the Church. The former, now reduced to a hollow
square tower mouldering upon an artificial mound, was
founded soon after the Conquest, and converted by
Edward I. into the Stannary Prison of Devonshire.
Until the last century it was still made use of for this
purpose, though much defaced and shattered in 1650.
The edicts of the Stannary Court partook to a consider-
able extent of the characteristics of Judge Lynch, so that
"Lydford Law", became as notorious as "Jedburgh

172 ^ DARTMOOR

Justice." Judge Jeffreys held here one of his Black
Assizes, and the legend runs that the court-room is still
haunted by his spirit in the guise of a black pig.

The old Early English Church is principally noticeable
for the simplicity of its interior, its weatherworn aspect,
and the noble prospects it commands. There is a quaint
professionally worded epitaph on the tomb (close to the
south door) of George Boutleigh, a watchmaker.

From the church we may make our way to Lydford
Bridge^ a single arch of grey stone flung across a dark
chasm 80 feet in depth, at the bottom of which the
stream almost disappears among black rocks and greenery.
Below, the ravine widens, opening out into a wooded glen,
once the haunt of the Guhbiris, a band of outlaws, who, a
century earlier, played much the same part as the Doones in
North Devon.

The grand Lydford Gorge, which attracts many visitors from
Plymouth and other towns, is enclosed, the upper part being in
private grounds, the lower in those of the Manor Hotel (close to
Lydford Station). Here a charge of 2d. is made for entrance
to this part of the glen with its fine Cascade. Beyond, on
Mondays only, strangers are allowed to ascend some 2 or 3 miles
to the head of the gorge, passing a series of falls known as Kit's
Steps. The whole walk is exceedingly fine, and should be more
famous. Along a cavernous ravine the stream forces its way
by a succession of boiling caldrons, creamy rushes, and deep pebbly
pools, through rocky throats choked by driftwood and rotten
trunks, between shady steeps richly lined with moss and ivy,
bright hart's-tongues and other ferns that glint green and gold
where they are touched by the sunbeams here and there struggling
into the abyss. The narrow path runs now close to the water's
side, then winding along a slippery ledge above, where a fall
might send one down between broken jaws of rock into the torrent
scarcely visible below. This walk is indeed not to be recommended
to those who cannot trust their heads and feet ; else, few who
have time to spare will regret taking it both ways. The entrance
at the top (on Mondays) is by the lodge of Lyd House ; and
descending, we can come out by the bridge, or through the hotel
enclosure, from the bottom of which a steeply winding path takes
us up to the railway, giving fine views and bringing home to
us the general height of this upland. Excursion coaches from
Tavistock and Okehampton stop at the hotel.

From the head of the Gorge we may easily make our way on to

ABOUT LYDFORD 173

Dartmoor, here bordered by the upper road from Okehampton
to Tavistock. The stream itself will be our guide to the base of
Great Links Tor (1900 feet), at one time given out as the highest
point on the moor, but that honour belongs to High WiUhays
(p. 170), 3 miles north-east of it. Behind the inn, at the junction
of the upper and lower roads, a track takes us up to Great Linx
Tor in an hour or so's easy walking, or to Little Linx Tor, on to
that other adjacent point, Braitor, on which a cross was erected by
the late Mr. Widgery, the popular artist, who made his summer
quarters at Lydford, and devoted himself to Dartmoor, of which
he painted several thousand bits, frequently bought on the spot
by passing visitors.

From Bridestowe we might follow the rails laid up to the peat
works, 5 miles above on the moor. Three miles west of Lydford
rises Haxe Tor (1744 feet), over which there is a grand walk into
Ta^ Cleave (p. 137).

On the opposite side of Lydford, Brent Tor (p. 138) lies not
3 miles from the station ; and the falling land settles down into
fields beautifully broken by woods, glens, and patches of moor.

From Lydford pleasant cycling or walking trips may be
made in a rough quadrangle of some 18 miles, extending to
the north-west, enclosed within the lines of the G. W. R. and
the L. & S.-W. R. to Launceston, which on all four sides
form the boundary of this area, watered by streams flowing
down to the Lyd. We regret that space does not allow us to
deal fully with a corner too much neglected both by tourists
and guide-books. A central point to make for is the fine
Church of Bratton Clovelly, north of which, across the
ridge of Broadbury, one could gain Ashbury, or hold on by
the ridge to Halwill Junction and Holsworthy (see below).

[We have already shown (p. 140) the continuation of the
G. W. R. from Lydford to Launceston. To reach this point
the L. & S.-W. R. branch fetches a much longer compass
from Okehampton, as shown below.]

PLYMOUTH TO EXETER AND NORTH DEVON
L. & S.-W. R.

Let us conclude this section with some sketch of the
L. & S.-W. R. route passing round the north edge of
Dartmoor. Most of this has already been followed in

174 DARTMOOR

portions, to Tavistock (p. 134) and to Lydford (p. 140).
Thence it finely skirts the moor to Okehampton^ a little
short of which one should look out for the crossing of the
Meldon Viaduct (p. 169). At Okehampton goes off the
branch into Cornwall.

Okehampton to Launceston and Bude. — The branch
recrosses the viaduct, diverging to the right and rising till
it commands a panorama of the country between Dartmoor
and the Cornish heights, of which, the most conspicuous is
Brown Willy. It passes Ashbury, near which is the Mid
Devon Hotel and Health Resort, well situated for hunting,
fishing, and bracing air. At Halwill Junction it again
divides, the left branch for Launceston, the right for
Holsworthy and Bude.

Holsworthy (Hotels : Stanhope Arw.s, White Hart) is
best known to tourists as the place where they once had
to take coach for Bude in Cornwall. It has a Perpendicular
Church, with some wood carving, an ancient font, and a
good organ. The Labyrinth, a remarkable maze of beech
trees, was the work of Earl Stanhope, the lord of the manor.
The town is 4 miles from the Tamar, and a good point from
which to explore the upper reaches of this beautiful river,
forming the boundary of Cornwall. On the other side, a
little farther away, runs the Torridge, which has its source
close to the Tamar's, so that a remarkable physical feature
of this country is the watershed between the English and
the Bristol Channels coming so far north as almost to
overlook the latter.

It is about 20 miles from Okehampton to Holsworthy ;
and 10 miles more by the former coach route brings one to
the sea at Bude.

This route is crossed at Holsworthy by a high road
between North- West and South-West Devon, on which it is
14 hilly miles to Launceston, and 24 more through Cornwall
to Plymouth. In the other direction, 18 miles, across the
long bend made by the Torridge, bring one to Bideford, and

UPPER PORTION,

PLYMOUTH TO EXETER AND NORTH DEVON 175

9 more to Barnstaple, through which Ilfracomhe could be
gained in a total of 39 miles from Holsworthy.

The Holsworthy-Bideford road, crossing Holsworthy Beacon,
3 miles out, brings one in 7 miles to Woodford Bridge (Inn) on
the upper course of the Torridge, which would be a guide to lovely
but little visited scenery. Pedestrians might follow this down
for a few miles, passing between Shebbeare above the left bank,
where there is a college of the Bible Christian or "Bryanite"
denomination, so strong in this corner of England, and on the
other side Bradford with its interesting restored Church. Below
Bradford, where the Whiteleigh "Water comes in from the south,
one is some 4 miles as the bird flies from Halwill Junction, farther
by the winding roads of this region ; and about twice as far from
Hatherleigh (see below).

A long projected railway from Okehampton to Torrington
would open up the beautiful and secluded country between
them ; but this seems to hang fire. In the meanwhile a
coach runs daily from Okehampton Station to Hatherleigh,
9 miles by road down the Okement, a little nearer by the
steeper way which goes up near the old Church. This
out-of-the,-way little town {George Inn) stands on a moor,
one of the poorest soils in Devon ; but it is near the richer
scenery of the Torridge valley, down which runs on the
road to Bideford (30 miles from Okehampton).

From Okehampton the main line passes into less rugged
scenery, crossing the Taw as it becomes a lowland stream ;
but the country to the north is still far from commonplace,
and the church towers of Sampford Courtenay and
North Tawton, seen from the rail, invite exploration of
its villages. There are stations a mile or two off for both
of these, also at Bow; then is reached Yeoford Junction
{Railway Hotel and small Refreshment Room), where one has
to change and probably to wait for the north Devon trains.
From the tower of Colebrook Church (the interior of
which shows some notable wood-carving), a little above the
station, one could have a good view ; and in the distance
we get a last look at Dartmoor. The main line goes south
by Grediton (p. 46), and thence down the valley of the
Creedy to that of the Exe, reached near Exeter.

176 DARTMOOR

The road which goes round the north of Dartmoor does
not always follow the L. & S.-W. R, (For particulars, see
our Cycling Tables.) From Exeter it strikes across a rough
country by Cheriton Gross to Okehampton, thence keeps near
the railway to Tavistock, but for the rest of the way has to
avoid the estuary of the Tavy by taking the line of the
G. W. R. branch to Tavistock over Roborough Down (p. 131),
The distance thus is rather over 50 miles, as against 41 miles
by Princetown, 43 by Ashburton, and 47 by Totnes.

NORTH Di:VON

t> I 2

Scale of Miles

aV^

« ^^ Ilfracom^c

^''///V %

Down

Matte \^oomombe
^ a y

■asP ll ^~Xl Borrow \^

Combmartin

ferry \
iBittadln

Bagq

Croyde ^^orgefar

Barnstc^ie^-V^
Baf . "

k/KTTQh
5TA.

Svodleigh

[ichjn'gl

:Appleaoijej finstowQuai '^"Ftoc/r (^ \Yw____ Swiml

W.Bucbland

'^tfmrdHp/fJWesp^h / Mi

idefora^/U=>''^ if TraceM \ ^'^ «, >\,

Ik*?^ Chitmhamfii

^^*^,fi> ■ "^ —

Littllham J®5x^|i\A Umberlei^^^A

Wear Giffoi^S^ >4t/je/-/n<

Roborough
iBeaford

SOUWH MOLTON (
ROAD STaJ

IVal/eer &■ Boutall sc.

BARNSTAPLE AND ITS APPROACHES

Ilfracombe is North Devon's place of greatest tourist
resort, but its largest town is Barnstaple, the knot of all
the railways to this coast. We are bound, then, to begin
with the routes to Barnstaple, reached from London by the
L. & S.-W. K. and the G. W. R. The latter is the shorter
in point of distance ; but as the Devon and Somerset Rail-
way, connecting its main line at Taunton with Barnstaple,
is better off for picturesque scenery than for quick trains,
the L. & S.-W. R. route through Exeter is usually preferred.
Even in travelling between North Devon and places on the
G. W. R. line, such as Taunton and Bristol, time-tables
show it sometimes more expeditious to make the round by
Exeter, changing at St. David's, the same fare being charged
as over the direct Somerset and Devon route. There is
connection between the two lines at Barnstaple.

The G. W. R. branch from Taunton to Minehead makes
another approach to North Devon. The proposed line
onwards along the coast of Exmoor has been scotched by
strong opposition ; but the journey is continued to Lynmouth
over the grand coach drive through Porlock, which may best
be spoken of when we come to Lynton (p. 204).

Of the high roads from Exeter (40 miles) and from
Taunton (60 miles) to Barnstaple, it may be enough to say
that they respectively take the same general line as the two
railways now to be followed, whose course will make it the
cyclist's or pedestrian's own fault if he let himself be tempted
too far on circumvagations ; and most of the places on their

177

178 BARNSTAPLE

way are seen from or stopped at by the trains. Once and
for all, we may say that North Devon roads are well pro-
vided with guide-posts.

EXETER TO BARNSTAPLE (L. & S.-W. R.)

In our Exeter section (p. 46), we have shown how the
L. & S.-W. R. leaves the valley of the Exe to pass up that of
the Greedy, then near Crediton, by the little Yeo, reaches
Yeoford Junction {Railway Hotel and small Refreshment
Room), where the line to Plymouth (p. 175) forks off round
the north side of Dartmoor, from the North Devon branch
that reaches Barnstaple down the Taw Valley. Usually it is
for Plymouth that one has to change ; and the express trains
to Barnstaple have through carriages for both Torrington and
Ilfracombe. From Exeter to Barnstaple is an ordinary
journey of between one and two hours, the express service
being more frequent in summer. The pleasant country
traversed is more populous than it appears, many of its
villages lying back out of sight or only to be surmised by a
peep of their square church towers. The Taw and its
tributaries make this a noted resort of anglers, for whom and
for other sportsmen good inn accommodation will be found
on the way.

A couple of miles beyond Yeoford Junction the first
station is Oopplestone, whose churchyard, on the right of
the line, shows a notable ancient Gross, about 12 feet high,
and decorated with rude ornamental scrolls. On the other
side lies Bow, otherwise Nymet Tracey, 3 miles west, with
an old Church, not the only one said to have been founded
by the Devonian murderer of X Becket. From this, with the
churches of North Tawton and Sampford Courtenay a little on
the right of the road, it is 10 miles west to Okehampton.
Eastwards, a few miles' walk would bring us to Sandford
(p. 47), whence the Greedy Valley makes a guide down to
Exeter.

The next station is Morchard Road, l| mile. Morchard
Bishop lies 2 miles to the right; and nearer on the left

EXETER TO BARNSTAPLE 179

Down St. Mary's Church shows one of the good screens
common in this neighbourhood. Then comes Lapford
Station, near which Denridge and Pidley, the Elizabethan
seats of the Radford and St. Leger families, have been
converted into substantial farmhouses. Lapford Church has
a good screen and bench carvings. Coleridge, 4 miles left,
has in its church a fine Perpendicular screen, and the
figure of an armed knight, one John Evans, d. 1514, keeper
of the Royal Park here.

Next we reach Eggesford Station {Fox and Hounds Hotel),
constructed for the convenience of the Earl of Portsmouth's
seat {Eggesford House), seen on the left. In the Church are
monuments of the Chichester family, one of them remarkably
elaborate and imposing. The country about here is richly
wooded along the course of the Taw, which the railway
follows from Lapford.

[Up the Little Dart, 2 miles from Eggesford Station, the

small market town Chulmleigll stands high, crowned by

the tower of its fine Perpendicular church, more than large

enough to hold all the population. The neighbourhood is

very pleasant, with its old houses, such as Colleton Barton,

and the quaint Elizabethan mansion, Leigh House. The

course of the Little Dart might be followed as far as East

Worlington, by the ruins of Affeton or Afton Castle,

formerly the stately stronghold of the Devonshire

Stucleys, restored by Sir George Stucley. There are some

noticeable memorials in the Churches both of East and

West Worlington. Among other excursions to be made

from Chulmleigh, Winkleigh (Inn) should not be missed,

where are a fine Church, magnificently restored by private

benefaction, and the sites of two very interesting castles,]

It shows how hard-up this line is for names, that its next

station, South Molton Boad {Fortescue Arms Hotel), is 9

miles from the little town of South Molton, lying to the

north near the Devon and Somerset line (p. 181). The road

from South Molton to this distant station opens up a fine

hilly country, in which the Mole and the Bray unite their

Exmoor streams to mingle with the Taw from Dartmoor, a

short way below its confluence with the Little Dart.

180 BARNSTAPLE

The course of the Taw now becomes leafily picturesque,
as the rail keeps beside it to the Portsmouth Arms Station,
and thence to that of Umberleigh, named respectively from
an inn and a bridge. On a hill, a long mile west of the
latter station, is the small village of Atherington, with an
Early English Church, containing some effigies of the 15th
century, good stained glass, and a rood-screen that has been
declared the finest and oldest in Devon. The Church of
Chittlehampton, 2 miles east of Umberleigh Bridge, has
one of a group of remarkably fine Perpendicular towers
(cf. p. 181).

Continuing along the course of the Taw from Umber-
leigh, we pass Chapleton Station, beyond which, on the left
of the line, are the nobly-timbered grounds of Tawstock
Court. In the Park stands a fine cruciform Church, with a
chapel containing tombs of the Bouchiers, Opposite, on the
right, the road runs through Bishop's Tawton, reputed to
have been at one time a seat of the Bishops of Devonshire,
whose Church has some old memorials, coloured glass, and a
very striking belfry-screen. To the south of it rises the
ridge of Coddon Hill, whose Beacon (630 feet) is one of the
best view-points in the neighbourhood.

Two miles further we reach Barnstaple Junction, approach-
ing it with a good view of the town across the river.

TAUNTON TO BARNSTAPLE (G. W. R.)

This pretty but not rapid route leaves the main line at
Norton Fitzwarren Junction, a little beyond Taunton, where
also goes off the branch to Minehead (p. 204). The Devon
and Somerset Railway, as was its original style, keeps for
half the way along the border of the two counties. The
first places passed, Milverton and Wivelscombe, lie in Somer-
set, to the south of the wild Brendon Hills that make an
eastward spur of Exmoor ; and for the roads over this high
ground towards the coast we must refer to our Somerset
Guide. Across the valley of the Torre, the next two stations,
Venn Cross and Morebath, are in Devon, the latter within

TAUNTON TO BARNSTAPLE 181

an hour's walk of Bampton (p. 45). Then at DulvertoUy
the line enters another projection of Somerset, taking in the
branch np the Exe Valley (p. 62), by which Great Western
shareholders might choose to travel from Exeter to Barn-
staple without patronising the rival railway.

Dulverton, though in Somerset, must be mentioned as the
southern focus of Exmoor travel. Dulverton Station (Hotel : Car-
narvon Arms) stands near the edge of the county, just above the
confluence of the Exe and the Barle. Here starts in the summer
season a coach to Minehead. The town of Dulverton (Hotels :
Bed Lion, Lamb, etc.) is 2 miles off up the Barle, at the foot of
finely-wooded hills, by which one rises on to Exmoor. By Wins-
ford Hill and Simonsbath, with beautiful byways about the course
of the Barle, goes the road to Lynton (26 miles, p. 205), the
former coach service on which has been supplanted by the Lynton
line from Barnstaple (p. 203). Of the many other beautiful ex-
cursions from Dulverton, we can only indicate a pedestrian line to
Lynton along the Devon border and the western heights of Exmoor,
dotted with tumuli and other monuments of antiquity, by Hawk-
ridge to North Molton Ridge, then to Span Head (over 1600 feet),
and on 3 miles north to Showlsborough Castle^ thence northwards
as shown on p. 215.

From the Barle Valley our railway skirts the southern spurs
of Exmoor ; passing through a finely broken part of Devon,
soon re-entered beyond Dulverton. The first station here,
on one of Devon's several Yeo streams, is for Bishop's
Nympton, on the left, and Holland, on the right of the
line, the former distinguished, like its neighbours Chiftle-
hampto7i (p. 180) and South Molton, by a remarkably fine
church tower, all three said to be the work of one architect,
and compared by the sobriquets " Length," " Beauty," and
" Strength." The best-known place on this route is South
Molton {George Hotel), from which many excursions may be
made to out-of-the-way parishes with interesting churches,
and on to the wilds of the moor.

South Molton lies to the south of the line, and as we saw
(p. 179) has another station, South Molton Road, 9 miles soutli, on
the L. and S.-W. R., with which we are now converging. North
Molton, also with a notable Church, is on the opposite side of the
G. W. K. , about 3 miles higher up the course of the Mole, where

182 fr BARNSTAPLE

we approach the heights forming the western rampart of Exmoor ;
and by Span Head and Showlsborough Castle (see above) might
take an almost straight line northwards to Lynton, or turn aside
to the high road at Simonsbath.

Filleigh (the village nearly 2 miles south, beyond Lord
Fortescue's well-wooded and watered seat Castle Hill) and
Swimbridge are the next stations, in a beautiful country
where at Tordown was the home of the Eev. John Eussell,
the clerical Nimrod of Exmoor, who made himself so popular
with all classes, unless, perhaps, bishops. His church at
Swimhridget 4 miles out of Barnstaple, contains a very fine
rood-screen, and among its monuments a curiously profes-
sional epitaph upon a 1 7th-century attorney. Thus our line
approaches the valley of the Taw, and reaches Barnstaple on
the right side of the river, after passing through scenery
which, overshadowed as it is by Exmoor, would alone make
the reputation of less-favoured counties for picturesqueness,
but seems more familiar to sportsmen than to tourists. The
road, here to the south of the rail, goes by Landkey, which
has a good restored Church with Acland monuments ; then
enters Barnstaple by its Newport suburb.

BARNSTAPLE

Hotels : Imperial, Royal and Fortescue, Golden Lion, King's Arms. Temperance
Hotels : Victoria, Trevelyan, Thomas', etc.

Distance : 208 m. from London. Population, 14,000.

There are three Railway Stations here. The Great Western Station in Victoria
Avenue, half a mile from the centre of the town, is the station for Taunton,
Bristol and the North, Bath, and London. Barnstaple Junction, on
the farther side of the river, is the station for Exeter and the South-
western Line to London in one direction, for Bideford and Torrington in
the other. Here, also, the trains leave for Ilfracombe, stopping at the
Town Station over the bridge, at which start the Lynton trains. By some
trains, G. W. R. carriages run through to and from Ilfracombe, over a
line connecting the G. W. R. Station with the L. and S.-W. R. Junction.

Barnstaple is the capital of North Devon, a place of con-
siderable antiquity, well situated in the bosom of gentle hills,
where the sobered Taw begins to take on itself the style of an
estuary. " The finest town we met with in the west of

BARNSTAPLE 183

England," was the Rev. W. Gilpin's opinion of it a century
ago, and it has since by no means declined in prosperity or
amenity, though it has changed its woollen manufacture for
other industries. The population gained a considerable
element of Huguenot refugees after the Edict of Nantes, whose
transmogrified names still appear on shop fronts. The town
takes its name from Braun, Brannock, or Barum, an early Irish
saint, his last alias being that which may puzzle strangers
on the milestones of the district. The castle of " Barum's
Market " is said to have been first built by Athelstan, then
rebuilt by a Norman baron, who also founded a priory de-
dicated to St. Mary Magdalene. Of the former nothing
remains but the Keep Mound, enclosed within the private
grounds of a mansion facing the river ; the memory of the
latter is preserved in Maudlyn Rock Close. The Bridge was
originally erected in the thirteenth century, to be enlarged
and restored in our own time. Beside it the railway bridge
cuts but a poor figure.

Barnstaple Fair, in September, is the Saturnalia of North
Devon ; and any market-day brings a lively gathering of the
county folks. Many tourists pass through the town, and some
stop, yet hardly long enough. Barnstaple, if they only knew it,
makes a capital centre for excursions, both by rail and by the
coaches, brakes, and other conveyances that run to favourite points
in the season. The distances to some of these are : Ilfracombe,
12 m. ; Morthoe, 10 m. ; Bideford, 9 m. ; Torrington, 13 m. ; Lyn-
ton, 17 m. When such resorts are crammed with visitors, com-
fortable quarters might be found at Barnstaple. A peculiarity
here is the abundance of Temperance Hotel accommodation.
Besides the large new Victoria Hotel in the High Street and the
Trevelyan, an old-established house close at hand, there are two
or three others of the same kind to supply the place of boarding-
houses.

Nearly all the town lying on one side the river, the ex-
ploration of it may best begin from the Town Station, beside
which is Queen Ann^s Walk, a piazza, rebuilt in 1798, de-
signed as a West Country Exchange. Adorned with a statue
of Queen Anne, it makes a striking feature. At this point,
Gross Street leads by the Post- Office into the lively High Street
where, turning to the right, we come back to the river, and
to the open space called the Square, at the end of the Bridge.

184 ^ BARNSTAPLE

Here stands the Albert Memorial, a clock tower with drinking
fountains. The G. W. R. Station is not far off, lying back
from the riverside on the outskirts of the town.

Near the Square will be found a remarkable architectural
feature, the Almshouses in Litchdon Street, founded by John
Penrose, mayor of the town, 1627. They are built in the
form of a quadrangle, with a sort of cloister, wooden-roofed,
and supported on granite columns, opening out on the road.
The chapel, which contains a portrait of the founder by
Janssen, is at one end of the cloister, and the council-room
at the other.

In Litchdon Street, also, is the Art Pottery, where the
so-called Barum ware is made. It somewhat resembles
Doulton ware, with figures of birds, flowers, etc., cut into it
like Italian Sgraffito. While on the industries of Barnstaple,
we should mention the Derby lace factory behind the town,
and the large Cabinet -making works, which may be seen
beyond the railway bridge.

Half-way up the High Street, in the other direction, not far
from handsome Congregational and Wesleyan chapels, we
find the Parish CJmrch, distinguishable by its quaint steeple
that stands not quite straight. But the interior is finer than
might be supposed from this feature : it contains many monu-
ments to local worthies, and the chancel dates from the 1 4th
century. In the middle of the churchyard is a still older
building, the Grammar School, originally a chantry of St.
Anne, now rather thrown into shade by a large elementary
school built to the side of it. Beyond the school, a
small passage called "Paternoster Row" leads into
Boutport Street, another of the main thoroughfares, which
bends round again into the High Street.

Close here are the Markets, above which the Guildhall
contains a show of local portraits, most of them painted by
Hudson, Sir Joshua Reynolds' teacher, and it is believed that
this great artist himself may have had a 'prentice hand in the
work.

The prominent tower, beside the North Devon Infirmary,
which would be a guide towards the G. W. R. Station, is that
oiHoly Trinity Church, built 1843.

BARNSTAPLE 186

Beyond the Square, on the right of the Dulverton road,
going out through Newport suburb, is the Rock Park, named
after the local benefactor who presented it. On the river
bank this is edged by an avenue, which makes a pleasant
walk. Above the railway bridge is a spot where the
Barnstaple youth make shift to bathe under difl&culties in the
tidal waters of the Taw, up which one might continue the
stroll to Bishop^s Tawton (p. 180).

At the lower end of the town, from the Town station,
another riverside promenade curves round the site of the
Castle to the mouth of the Yeo, which here falls into the
Taw. This is not the Yeo we crossed beyond Dulverton,
but a fresh one coming down from heights to the north, up
which its wooded valley would be a guide. The road to
Lynton (17 miles), leaving Barnstaple Square, soon strikes
this valley, parting from it at Loxhore Gott.

Across the Yeo bridge, one comes to Pilton, with its sub-
urban park. By the Church, whose tower appears on a
height half a mile on, goes out the road to Ilfracombe.
Pilton Church is noticeable for an elaborate monument, in
the chancel, to Sir E. Chichester (d. 1627), with kneeling
figures of his family ; for its screen and other relics, in-
cluding an iron hour-glass for measuring the preacher's dis-
course ; also for the doggerel inscribed on one of its bells —

" Recast by Thomas Taylor and Son,
Who the best prize for Church -bells won
At the Great Ex-hi-bi-ti-on
In London, 1-8-5 and one."

There are some charming lanes about this village and its
prolongation Bradiford, through which one might keep along
the uplands westward to the tower of Heanton Funchardon
Church, looking over the Taw estuary.

The low road to Braunton (5 miles) goes out below
Pilton, down the shore of the estuary, on which is passed
Heanton Court, an imposing shell, relic of days when the en-
closures behind were a great deer park of the Bassett family.

On the opposite side of the river, above the junction, rise

186 . BARNSTAPLE

inviting heights, over which passes the road to Torrington
(13 miles).

Other excursion points about Barnstaple have been
pointed out on the way to it, or will now be shown as we
successively follow the railway on to Ilfracombe, then the
lines diverging here for Lynton, and for Bideford and
Torrington.

BARNSTAPLE TO ILFRACOMBE

The railway journey is three-quarters of an hour, more
or less, a steep ridge having to be crossed that catches the
breath even of a locomotive. The line at first keeps along
the side of the Taw, but at Wrafton Station it begins to
ascend above a creek that brings masts within sight of
Braunton, the station for the remarkable stretch of shore
between Baggy Point and the mouth of the Taw. Here
was the original settlement of St. Braun ; and in this
pleasant village died Edward Capern, the Devonshire poet-
postman. The neighbourhood on both sides deserves to be
better known, as it would be if there were an hotel near
the station.

Braunton's ancient Church, which contains some good
carving, shows its spire to the right of the line, above which
a view tower invites exploration of the inland heights. On
the other side, towards the sea, is a remarkable feature of
landscape in Braunton Great Field, said to cover 365 acres
with its chessboard of unenclosed plots, a survival of the
Anglo-Saxon system of communal land-holding.

[Beyond this lies Braunton Burrows, that southwards
end at Bideford, and northwards take the name of
Saunton Sands. This labyrinth of sandhills and
burrows, about a mile broad and four or five miles long,
said to cover the ruins of a bygone city, has been
opened up by a road to the Saunton Sands Hotel (3 miles
from Braunton Station), to which rising golf links are
an attraction. A little further north, the village of
Georgeham, with its restored church, lies at the base of

BARNSTAPLE TO ILFRACOMBB 187

Baggy Point, on the south side of which, at Croyde Bay,
summer lodging-houses have begun to spring up. A
path leads out the long projection of Baggy Point, which
has a wide view northwards over Woolacombe Sands and
Morte Point (p. 198) to Lundy Island and the Welsh
coast ; then southwards, beyond the estuary of the Taw
and the Torridge, to the coast -line of Clovelly and
Hartland.]

Over a high upland, seamed by lanes, the railway mounts
to its highest point at Morthoe Station {Fortescue Arms
Inn), 2 miles above Morte Point and Woolacombe (p. 199),
which we shall take as dependencies of Ilfracombe. Just
short of the station a combe opens down on the left to
Woolacombe Sands ; then beyond it, another hollow gives a
peep on Lee (p. 197).

The train now descends, passing the Slade Reservoirs of
Ilfracombe, and comes to a stop high above the town,
beneath the prominent height of Cairn Top. The cyclist
has still some cautious work before him on the long descent
to the shore.

The road from Barnstaple to Ilfracombe (a short 12
miles) goes out to the right of Pilton Church, half a mile
beyond which it has near its right side Raleigh House, on the
site of an older home of the Raleighs. Up the course of
Bradiford Water it mounts on to Muddiford and Milltown,
then at Bittadon reaches its " Half-way House." Nearly
3 miles further, at Two Pots, for a little way it coincides
with the straighter and rougher old road that, running not
far to the left of the new one, might be chosen by pedes-
trians. The curving new road winds down the wooded
Ghamhercomhe Valley (p. 194) to enter Ilfracombe by the
east end, while the old road drops steeply down to the
centre of the town.

Another route is by Braunton, which is 2 miles longer,
but for its first stage not so hilly ; and at the expense of a
little further roundabout one might keep the byroads near
the coast past Woolacombe Sands and Lee (pp. 197-199).

ILFRACOMBE

Hotels : Ilfracombe, in its own grounds, overlooking the sea ; Royal Clarence,

in High Street; Belgrave, in Wilder Road, opposite the Ilfracombe; Queen's,

etc., in High Street.
Boarding-Houses : Collingwood, Runnadeave, Imperial, Gilbert House, Carlton,

Granville, Dudley House, Seaview, Clifton, etc., near the sea. Crescent,

Montehello, in the main street, with restaurants.
Post and Telegraph Offices, opposite the Queen's Hotel, High Street, with

three sub-offices.
Railways : London and South- Western, from Waterloo, vid Exeter ; Great

Western, from Paddington, vid Bristol and Taunton. Through carriages

by both to the same station.
Steamers : From Bristol, Cardiff, Swansea, etc.
Hackney Carriage Fares: The published tariff is much as usual: two

persons, one horse. Is. the first mile, 2s. 6d. the first hour, etc. ; but the

stranger will be lucky who escapes being asked 2s. or even 2s. 6d. for

going to and from the station, which is certainly a steep mile, and further

from some parts of the town.
Donkey Carriages and Sedan Chairs : 6d. half a mile, 8d. a mile, and 4d.

for every half-mile beyond ; Is. an hour, and 6d. for additional half-hour.
Population : 8557.

Gomhey as it is colloquially called, par excellence, along
this coast of combes, has become the most important resort
of North Devon, a distinction it owes to its situation and
surroundings, and to its climate, more bracing than that of
Torquay and Teignmouth, while hardly less warm when
warmth is most wanted. It enjoys a high mean tempera-
ture, arrived at rather by general equability than by spells
of great heat. In winter its average degree has been stated
at 44*9, among the highest on the British mainland, with a
lower daily range than at Ventnor or Torquay, and a large
share of sunshine. If, indeed, in summer, the air on the
shore be found rather too close and steamy, many of the
best lodging-houses are on the heights above, climbing

188

ILPRACOMBE 189

upwards in search of refreshing breezes wherever the ground
lends itself to building sites. The number of rainy days is
considerable, as it is apt to be all over Devon ; but the
total rainfall is rather below that of South Devon, and the
soil, being light and porous, soon dries after the sky has
been using its frequent watering-pot. These advantages
have been more and more tempting permanent residents ;
and though Ilfracombe is not yet a town of mansions and
villas like Torquay, the number of strangers who come here
to spend the winter seems to be increasing. At present,
however, its popularity is as a summer bathing-place ; and
in August and the first half of September it will often be
found inconveniently crowded. Yet, as in the case of so
many other holiday resorts, the loveliest time is early
summer or autumn, when visitors would be received with
open arms and best bedrooms.

A characteristic of Ilfracombe is the number of boarding-
houses and private hotels that flourish here, as at Bourne-
mouth, crammed in the season by sociable crowds, who
have taken care to secure in advance their quarters at the
favourite ones. Some of these are on a large scale, like
continental pensions ; the Eunnacleave has a theatre or
concert-hall of its own ; some of the older houses, not less
popular in their way, are connected with cheap restaurants.
The charges run from two guineas a week or so. Another
class of visitors has increased of late, as is shown by the
enlargement of the oddly -shaped pier. Steamers discharge
crowds of day excursionists from Bristol, from Wales, even
from the Midlands, for whom accommodation is provided
about the harbour. Then there is a continual coming and
going of tourists, who find this a good centre for launching
out along the coast from the railway terminus that stands
like an Alpine chapel above the lively town.

Ilfracombe has a peculiarity of situation in being almost
entirely surrounded by the jagged heights or, tors which are
such a feature of North Devon scenery. A line of them
shuts it in from the shore, so that the town has no sea front
to speak of. These fine masses of rock upon the shore have
been turned to use as promenades and esplanades ; and the

190 ILFRACOMBE

m

view from them, landwards and seawards, is one of the main
attractions.

Inland rise bold heights shutting in a valley, through
which winds the long main street, more or less parallel to
the shore. The old part of Ilfracombe is largely overlaid by
its modern features. The most important monument of
the past is the Church, built in the 12 th century and
enlarged in the 15th, which stands on the ascent to the
station. It was much improved by the Rev. J. M. Chanter,
Kingsley's brother-in-law, and vicar here for more than half
a century, to whose memory a lych-gate has been dedicated.
There are two other churches, besides chapels of several
denominations. The road from the station winds down to
the High Street, that shows its best shops near the Clock
Tower, not far from which opens a covered Arcade, where
the main thoroughfare mounts to the right to become the
Barnstaple and Lynton roads, and to the left slopes meanly
towards the harbour. Through the Arcade we pass directly
down to the Wilder Road, that may be called the Piccadilly
of Ilfracombe, below which a green makes its only opening
on to the sea.

The harbour lies at the east of the town, in an out-of-the-
way corner, above which rises the Lantern Hill, crowned by
the ancient chapel of St. Nicholas, still a beacon to mariners.
This is reached from the pier enclosure, which has need of
some such extra inducement to give for its toll, being a pier
of utility rather than elegance ; but the harbour in its hollow
recess is one of the most picturesque corners of the town.

Then comes the Capstone Parade, a green hill, well laid
out with walks, seats and shelters. One of the sights of the
place is, in rough weather, to see the waves breaking on the
rocky face round which runs such a fine promenade. From
the top of the Capstone, at dusk, there is a striking view
of the lights of the town rising opposite : the red lantern of
St. Nicholas glowing at one end, and the far-off glare of a
train at the other, mark the size of Ilfracombe, which from
a fishing village has stretched itself for a mile and more,
swelling upwards into every available corner.

Beyond the Capstone lies that open green that may be

ii

ILFRACOMBB 191

taken as the centre of the place. On one side of it stands
the Ilfracombe Hotel, over the Wildersmouth Cove ; on the
other a winter garden, 200 feet long, called the Victoria
Promenade, or more commonly the Jubilee Shelter, which
has become for Ilfracombe what the Pump Koom was in
old-fashioned watering-places. A band plays here in the
evening, when admission to this miniature Crystal Palace is
usually free.

Next rises the steep ridge of Runnacleave, now invaded
on its land face by houses, under which runs a tunnel
leading to the bathing beaches. Behind the Kunnacleave
is sheltered the newest and most pretentions part of the
town.

At the west end begins the longer line of heights known
as the Torsj which are enclosed and laid out on the seaside
with very attractive winding walks of a mile or so, a charge
of Id. and 2d. being made for admission. Had one seen
those walks " before they were made," one would probably
be grateful for them, yet there seems something unworthy of
Ilfracombe's dignity in this toll of coppers. The views of
the coast are certainly well worth Id. or even 2d. We may
mention, for the information of economical strangers, that
though the higher fee may be suggested to them, they can
go for Id. over all the best part of this tamed wilderness,
the twopenny stretch being a recent addition. In the season
a man is on the watch to examine tickets of admission. At
the highest point has been erected a refreshment pavilion,
which makes a salient feature in the landscape.

As by the Tors on this side, at the other end, beyond the
harbour, Ilfracombe is shut in by the open slopes of Heles-
borough (or Hillsborough). Under 500 feet, its bold sea
face and steep top give this a look of greater height ; and
the view in all directions would repay a much more arduous
climb. The path to it is a continuation of Quayfield Road,
the unpromising entry of which turns up to the right at the
bottom of Fore Street, but it soon becomes a pleasant walk,
overlooking the harbour, then a footway through the fields
to Hele, branchiug off at the end of the town to Rapparee
Cove — the bathing-place also reached by boat from the pier

192 ^ ILFRAOOMBE

almost opposite — and a little further on to the top of the
hill. Any one leaving Ilfracombe by the Lynton Road will
at once see the path winding up the green side of Heles-
borough. There are some ancient earthworks on the top,
but most visitors seem to take more interest in the seats,
which on a hot day afford an airy resting-place. On the
further side, one can zig-zag down the abrupt slopes to the
point below, where a cove and sands invite to bathe. The
paths have been improved ; and direction -posts tell the
stranger how to turn.

What must be said against Ilfracombe is that it hardly excels
as a family watering-place, offering rugged cliffs rather than safe
sands for children. The bathing, however, is good, pains having
been taken to provide siiitable arrangements. From the Bath
House below the entrance to the Tors' Walks one passes under the
Runnacleave by a dark tunnel that casts a shade of serious resolve
upon the swimmer's manly purpose, and on the hottest day
inspires a shiver premonitory of the coming plunge. This Avernus-
like entrance opens out into picturesque coves containing two
walled-in bathing-pools for ladies and gentlemen, where one may
safely disport oneself on the roughest day, unless when they are
covered at high tide. On the other side of the town, a little way
beyond the harbour, is Rapparee Cove, where a more open swim
can be had, a flag being hoisted on the cliff above to mark certain
hours when the machines here are reserved for ladies. Connected
with the Ilfracombe Hotel, but open to the public on payment, is
a swimming bath, with regulated temperature, in which entertain-
ments are sometimes given.

Boats, large and small, are to be had at the harbour ; and there
is good sea fishing off the coast, where, however, none but
experienced navigators would do well to trust themselves without
nautical guidance, which is sure not to be wanting for a consider-
ation. We understand that trout are to be caught in the large
reservoirs seen in entering Ilfracombe by rail, which lie high up
among the hills, and that permission to angle in these artificial
tarns may be had at the Town Hall. There is a lofty golf course
at Mullacot, a mile or so out behind the station. Rare bits of flat
ground in the Down make lawn-tennis grounds ; and football fields
have been contrived in the valley leading up to the Cemetery and
on the slopes of Helesborough ; but a cricket field has had to be
found on the heights at Morthoe Station. There are many
facilities for excursions by boat, by coach, and by other sociable
conveyances advertised to run, in the season, to the chief neigh-
bouring points. The steamers occasionally go as far as the Welsh
or the Cornish coast ; but most of their local voyages are short

WALKS ABOUT ILFRACOMBE 193

ones, made while their cargo of trippers from Bristol or South
Wales is on shore. Perhaps the favourite adventure by sea is to
Clovelly (p. 229), well worth the risk of a rough tossing and of a
wetting one may get in landing by boat. Many visitors also
take the chance of setting foot on Lundy Island (p. 200), which is
full in view — a view not always to be desired, for

' When Lundy is plain, it will be rain."

A few of the regular coach or char-a-bancs drives may be
quoted, with the price usually charged: — Lynton, 5s. ; Combe Martin,
2s. 6d. ; Barnstaple, 48. 6d. ; Wooda Bay and Hunter's Inn, 5s. ;
Woolacomhe Sands, 2s. 6d. ; Watermouth and Berrynarhor, 2s. ;
Lee, 2s. or 2s. 6d. But Ilfracombe, like Lynton, is one of those
places which cannot be properly enjoyed without the use of one's
own legs ; and, like Lynton, it is fortunate in being surrounded
by beautiful rambles which do not take one too far from one's
temporary home. We propose, then, to mention first the shorter
walks, within a few miles round the town, and to conclude by
conducting our reader along the sea coast on either hand to the
points where we bring him from another radius.

WALKS ABOUT ILFRACOMBE

The first inland point likely to attract the stranger is
the Cairn Top, above the railway station, distinguished by a
flagstaff and by winding walks cut on its rough-grown sides.
The most direct way up is by a path from the goods yard of
the station. The top is easily reached in half an hour from
the centre of the town, on which it looks down so as to
give a general view of the features of Ilfracombe. The walk
may be extended on the ridge behind, to come down
either into the high valley on the right, where are the
railway and the reservoirs, or into the deep combe on the
other side.

Blade Down (666 feet) between Cairn Top and the sea,
though not so prominent or picturesque, is the highest
ground of the ring of heights, and may be ascended either
by Langleigh Lane, beginning near the Church, or from the
coast road to Lee at the back of the Tor^ Walks. This

13

194 ^ ILPRAOOMBE

climb may take a little longer, but is quite easy. Holding
down into the valley tbat makes the railway's course, one
comes on the chain of Reservoirs by which Morthoe Station
can be gained.

Where the Station Road goes up from the Church is the
meeting-place of some half-dozen streets and roads leading in
all directions. Take the Braunton or St. Brannock's Boad^
which leads up the wooded combe winding round Cairn Top.
This conducts us to several of the favourite points — to the
Mullacott Golf course, to the Cemetery, to Bicclescomhe Lane,
to the Score Woods, and to Westdown. Guide-posts will be
found that make farther direction -unnecessary, and two or
three afternoons may be spent in varying the rambles in and
about this beautiful valley.

At the back of the town rises a tableland, on one side of
which runs the Old, on the other the New Barnstaple Rood,
joining one another a little more than 2 miles out, to
separate again after a hundred yards or so. A round of
about 5 miles by these two roads will give a good idea of the
country behind. The old road being naturally steeper, it
might be well to start out by the new one, which, leaving
the Lynton road landwards at the end of the town, winds
pleasantly above the Chambercomhe Valley and the fine
Warmscomhe Woods till it falls into the old road, where the
telegraph wires lead us back to Ilfracombe. Or, keeping a
little way further out the straight old road, one would find a
crossway westward to Mullacott, and for a 3 miles longer
round, might strike southwards across the heights to West-
doion, a village 4 miles south of the town, Eastdown being
some miles off as far south of Combe Martin (p. 196).

One of the pleasantest inland strolls of an hour or two
is up the Ghamhercombe Valley opening from the village of
Hele. Just past a quaint thatched building on the way to
Lynton, the " Chambercomhe Road " is indicated, which at
first may seem not inviting, but soon becomes a truly
Devonian lane winding up a charming hollow. Passing

ROUND ABOUT ILPRACOMBE 195

through a farmyard, it dwindles to a rocky path, which
mounts to the Warmscomhe Woods (2 miles). These may be
skirted to the open hillside above, from which there is a
fine glimpse into the richly-wooded "gorge. Onward, then,
the adventurous rambler could make his way in various
directions by paths and tracks over half-cultivated downs
and combes. But we have said enough to show the main
points of the country behind.

One more walk, however, may be suggested as worth
spending three or four hours on. From the new Barnstaple
Koad, a mile or so after its junction, or from the head of
the valley just mentioned, we might gain a cross road leading
on to Berry Down, about 3 miles east, and almost as far back
from the sea, thence to descend by the pretty Sterrage Valley
into Berrynarbor, a very Devonian village, birthplace of
Bishop Jewell, with a good old church to be seen and a snug
little inn (Globe) for refreshment. At the bottom of this
village, guide-post8 give a choice of reaching the coast at
Watermouth (see below) or of striking over the hill for Hele
by a rougher way to Ilfracombe (3 miles), unless we choose
the round by Combe Martin while we are about it.

TO COMBE MARTIN AND LYNTON

The road eastwards goes below Helesborough (p. 191), a
pleasant byway being the path along its side as far as Hele,
the village beyond. Hence the road runs in full view of
the sea, at several points rising hundreds of feet above the
shore with downward peeps into inaccessible rocky coves.
In about two miles it reaches Watermouth, by Widiiwuth
Head and Burrow Nose, fern-clad promontories presenting an
epitome of the coast scenery. Past Watermouth Castle, a
I modern building in beautiful grounds, on the opposite side
of the way opens an access to the Smallmouth and Briary caves,
so highly praised in Gosse's " Eamblings of a Naturalist."
These grand natural tunnels, whose seaward opening frames

196 ILPRACOMBE

such a beautiful view, are well wortli visiting, and in the
season some one will usually be found on the roadside to lead
visitors to them.

At Watermouth the road doubles back ; but there is a
fenced path along the cliffs that rejoins it higher up, as it
goes sweeping round into Comhe Martin Bay, beyond which
projects Hangman Point, its base seen hollowed by caves. If
we are content with a look down into Combe Martin, near
the fourth milestone, a road turns inland for a short mile to
Berrynarhor (see above), which might also be gained from
Combe Martin, a mile or two further on.

Combe Martin (Hotels: King's Arms; Castle; Marine)
lies prettily in a well-wooded valley. The village street is
more than a mile in length, running inland from the rock-
bound harbour. In the middle of the village stands
St. Peter's Church, built of red stone and Perpendicular
in style. It contains a marble monument and eflSgy to
Dame Hancock, who died in 1637, and a richly-worked rood-
screen. A mine of silver was worked in this neighbourhood
during the time of the Plantagenets, and unsuccessful
attempts have more than once been made to revive the
enterprise.

Lodgings can be had in the village, and visitors in search
of quietness may pass a very pleasant time at Combe Martin.
There is a good bathing-place in the first cove westwards of
the bay. Fine walks will be found in all directions — up
the valley of the little river ; westwards along the Ilfracombe
Road, and to Berrynarhor ; southwards to the top of Berry
Down ; and over the downs rising on the east side of the
village, especially to the heights overlooking the sea on either
side of Hangman Point — the Little Hangman, and Great
Hangman, that explain their name by the legend of a man
carrying a stolen sheep who was justly strangled, its struggles
tightening the cord by which it hung round his neck.

Combe Martin is a little over five miles from Ilfracombe.
Hence the coach road to Lynton turns inland, winding up to
Parracombe (p. 203), where we shall come upon it from another |

ROUND ABOUT ILFRACOMBE 197

direction. Between this and the coast pedestrians could find
steeper byways, or hold along the chain of heights by the
sea — the Great Hangman (1044 feet), the Holdstone
Barrows (1146 feet), and Trentishoe Barrows (1061 feet),
beyond which a road descends to the Hunter's Inn (p. 213) a
mile above Heddon's Mouth, some half-dozen straight miles
from Combe Martin, and about as far from Lynton by roads
hence leading plainly onwards. To Trentishoe with its
little church, south of the other heights above mentioned_, a
road goes out of Combe Martin near the "King's Arms,"
rising to Stoney Corner by ruined shafts and rubbish heaps of
the abandoned silver mines; but this way cannot be
recommended to cyclists, who if in no hurry, may keep the
high road to Parracombe, and beyond it turn down to
Hunter's Inn for a beautiful round, described later on (p. 2 1 2).

TO MORTHOE AND WOOLACOMBE

As far as Lee, a short three miles, this is a walk no
Ilfracombe visitor, who can, fails to take. There are
three ways to Lee. The driving road has such steep ups
and downs that the merciful man will be inclined to walk
much of it, though he may have hired a carriage " for the
honour of the thing." The recognised fare is 5 s. there and
back, with an extra shilling for an hour's waiting. The
coast road mounts behind the Tors, by winding turns, some
of which may be cut off by steep short cuts ; then it becomes
fairly level as it passes below Slade Down to keep henceforth
near the cliffs. The best way on foot is by the Tors' Walks
to the Pavilion, from which we can drop down upon the
road just mentioned, bringing us to the steep descent into
the finely-wooded opening of Lee Bay. At the head of the
descent is a path through fields, kindly indicated by
advertisers of refreshment. This path takes us down directly
into the village, where more modest accommodations are now
overshadowed by the Lee Bay Hotels transformed out of the
old Manor House.

198 ILFRACOMBE

The valley is very pretty, overhung by the woods of Lee
Manor, rising up the sides of the combe which makes such a
pretty peep from the railway above. Admission to these
woods is charged 2d. On the other side is a public footpath
leading up the combe, by which Morthoe Station (p. 187) can
be reached — a footpath rather hard to find and follow, but
so long as one keeps to the stretches of half-wild land, it
seems not necessary to take very seriously the warnings
exhibited in terrorem for trespassers.

For the village of Morthoe^ we keep on up the further
ascent, passing the entrance to Lee Woods. The distance
by road is about 3 miles, which will be a good deal
lengthened if we hold to the coast, taking the outside of the
knoll crowned by a flagstaff, and so on to Bull Point. On
the road, a post presently shows a lane to the right as foot-
path to Morthoe ; and from this soon diverges a path to
Bull Point. There are direction boards to guide one through
fields, but before long a line of telegraph posts welcome us
into the driving road from Morthoe to Bull Point, which
will thus be 5 miles or so from Ilfracombe. The Lighthouse
here may be visited, and there is a fine view from this point,
where now the coast turns southward.

If we have made the digression to the Lighthouse, the
road hence to Morthoe is about 2 miles, unless we make it
longer by keeping round Rockham Bay to Morte Point.
This road comes on the little village of Morthoe, standing
well back from the sea, a group of weather-worn old
houses, beginning to be looked down on by new quarters for
summer visitors, including more than one boarding-house.
It is 2 miles by road from the station of its name (p. 187),
where there is a small inn. The Morthoe Hotel is down
below on the beach ; and there is the Chichester Arms in
the village, near the little Norman Church, containing a
tomb thought to be that of William de Tracey, one of
Becket's murderers, who is said to have lived in dreary
exile here, " when wind and weather turned against him."
The legend also has a feature common in Cornwall : the
murderer's doom is eternally to make bundles and wisps of
sand. We have seen other churches in Devon handed down

MORTB BAY AND WOOLACOMBE 199

as built by this repentant sinner in expiation of his crime
ever since which, according to the proverbial rhyme —

•' TheTraceys
Have the wind in their faces."

Morte Bay (6 miles) seems the very home for gloomy
legends. It is enclosed by bold headlands at either extremity;
on the north by Morte Point, with its black, jagged cliffs,
here rising to the height of 800 feet ; on the south by
Baggy Point, a favourite resort of sea-birds, running out
" like a huge pier into the sea." Under the cliffs of Morte
Point lies Barricane Beach, rich in shells ; whilst out to sea
the waves dash fiercely over the ill-famed Morte Stone, which
has a terrible reputation for shipwrecks. Swimmers also
must take great care how they breast the tide among these
fearsome rocks. Bathing had best be avoided at this end,
unless one be quite sure what one is about.

The greater part of the Bay, however, is occupied by
a grand stretch of sand, large enough for an army to bathe
on, and the more remarkable as being the first extensive
sands met with on this coast. Here also has begun to arise
a place of bathing quarters, Woolacombe, which, in
pictures and plans, threatens to extend itself into a second
Ilfracombe. As yet it consists of an hotel (Woolacombe Bay)
and a group of lodging-houses, with a road of their own to
Morthoe Station, by a deep crooked combe running up be-
hind Morthoe village.

Woolacombe Sands extend for 2 miles or so, the coast
behind them being less bold till we come to the long pro-
jection of Baggy Point. This is not an easy place to get at,
about 5 miles from Morthoe, going along the sands, and
making one's own way along the point; but it is worth
attaining for the sake of the fine view already mentioned
(p. 187), then beyond it the sands of Saunton and Braunton
begin about 1 1 miles from Ilfracombe.

Our last Excursion from Ilfracombe is one that will not
appear in any Cyclists' Guide — to Lundy Island.

200 . LUNDY ISLAND

LUNDY ISLAND

Hartland Point (12 m.) is the nearest land to this dependency of Devon,
16 m. from Clovelly. It is most frequently visited, perhaps, by the
excursion steamers from Ilfracorabe, which take about two hours, landing
their passengers on the beach for a short stay. A sailing boat from Instoio
Quay (23 m.) carries the mails every Thursday (weather permitting), and
passengers are taken across at a charge of 5s. — 7s. 6d. return. Refresh-
ments and lodgings may be had at a farmhouse near the landing-place.

Lundy, prominent sentry of the Bristol Channel, cannot
fail to excite the curiosity of tourists on the mainland. In
length, it is 3 miles from north to south ; in breadth,
from east to west, about -| mile ; and in area 920 acres,
almost wholly pasturage. The inhabitants in 1891
numbered about 50. On the coast, the more remark-
able points are — the Hen and Chickens reef, north, and the
isolated rock of the Constable ; Lamatry, and Rat Island,
south ; the Seals, Gannets, and Gull Rocks, east ; and on the
west the savage chasm of the DeviVs Limekiln, with the rock
of the Shutter opposite its seaward mouth, as if designed to
block it up.

A family named Marisco were long the proprietors of this
wild demesne, and one of them having plotted against
Henry III., fled hither for safety. For some years he and
his comrades led a rude buccaneering life, but were eventually
captured by the king's cruisers, and duly executed. The
island has also served as a stronghold for Turkish, Scotch,
and French privateers ; and so late as the 1 8th century it
was in the hands of a local scoundrel named Benson, who
turned this fastness to various unlawful accounts. It is
now the peaceful possession of the Rev. Mr. Heaven, whose
name lends itself to certain well-worn jokes, sure to be passed
upon visitors to his tiny kingdom.

Besides remains of some round towers of doubtful origin,
the only antiquities are the ruins of Marisco Castle at the
south end, and traces of a chapel on the highest point (over
500 feet) near the old lighthouse (above the south-western
corner), now superseded by lights at either end of the island.
The geology of the island is interesting through the junction

1 LUNDY ISLAND 201

of granite and slate seen here ; and along the west side are
curious chasms believed to be caused by earthquakes. The
precipitous cliflfs are the resort of numerous sea-fowl, which
Mr. Heaven is laudably anxious to preserve. Rabbits abound
on land, as crabs and lobsters in the sea. Rat Island, which
shelters the landing-place (at the south end), gets its name
from being one of the last refuges of the old British breed of
black rat, which, however, is being exterminated by its
Hanoverian supplanter. Many plants flourish here hardly
now to be found on the mainland ; but only in sheltered
nooks can trees hold out against the winds. The fuchsia
and hydrangea grow to great size, thanks to the mild climate,
which is that of Devonshire, " only more so," with a large
share of fog to set off against the rarity of frost and snow.

LYNTON AND LYNMOUTH

We now turn to the north-eastern corner containing the
very Devonshire cream of scenery about those famous twin
villages, separated by a steep ascent of 500 feet, Lynton
clustering on the edge above, Lynmouth lying snug beneath
its sheltering cliff. This district has been called the Switzer-
land of England, but can well afford to refuse all such com-
parisons. It joins together, as in a bouquet, the moors of
Scotland, the downs of Surrey, the sweet ravines of Wales,
the ragged gorges of sub-Alpine heights, all richly clad in
the leafage of Devon, with rare blendings of form and colour,
which make it like nothing but itself. Perhaps the most
peculiar feature is that so much wealth of scenery should be
poured out at the very edge of the sea. Southey spoke of
Lynmouth as the " finest spot, except Cintra and Arrabida,"
he ever saw. The lake poets had nearly settled in this
neighbourhood, whose popularity could not have failed, in
that case, to come half a century sooner. Shelley also spent
some time at Lynmouth in 1812. But the author who has
done most for the district is the late Mr. Blackmore, whose
" Lorna Doone " is religiously read by visitors, to send them
on trips over Exmoor to the wild scenery it celebrated.

For long the freshness of this corner of Devon was pro-
tected by the rugged country around, which does not lend
itself to railway -making. By twenty miles of picturesque
but trying road, crowded coaches arrived in the season from
the four nearest stations — Ilfracombe, Minehead, Barnstaple,
and Dulverton. But now a light railway is open from
Barnstaple, and a regular pier is in view to supplant the

202

BARNSTAPLE TO LYNTON 203

small jetty, where steamers from Bristol and Swansea put
out their passengers by small boats, weather permitting.
The coaches still ply in either direction along the coast, from
Easter to 'October, but those running inland have been
given up.

BARNSTAPLE TO LYNTON

The railway which has made this corner more accessible
is of narrow gauge, requiring a change of carriage at the
Town Station, Barnstaple. There are through bookings
with the L. & S.-W. R., but not with the G. W. R. Un-
fortunately, this line does not seem to be a financial success,
and its service, out of the season at least, is not a very
liberal one.

The line at first keeps up the winding course of the Yeo,
with Pilton church tower (p. 185) on the left, and that of
Goodleigh presently, on the right, marking a side valley, up
which, a couple of miles to Stoke Rivers, then tiftning over
the heights south-westward by Goodleigh^ one might have an
alluring ramble back to Barnstaple from the first station.
This is Chelfham (pron. Cliellam), reached by a fine viaduct
over the tributary stream. Soon afterwards the rail leaves
the Yeo, mounting eastward up the Bratton Valley to
Bratton Station, near the lofty village of Bratton Fleming,
where a good deal of building is in evidence. The next
station is Blackmoor (900 feet), lying under the tumuli of
Kentisbury Down to the left, whence one might descend on
foot to Lynton and Lynmouth (7 miles) or Ilfracombe (10
miles) from the cross roads at Blackmoor Gate. The railway
has next to wind around the deep hollow in which lies
Parracombe {Fox and Geese Inn\ where, near the stopping
platform, can be seen the tower of the old church, another of
those said to have been built in expiation of Thomas h.
Becket's murder. Hence flows the Heddon Water, which
one might follow down its beautiful course by the Hunter^ s
Inn (p. 213). The cyclist will find a way diverging from
the main road a little beyond Parracombe. At the last
station, Wooda Bay, two miles behind this place and its

204 ^ LYNTON AND LYNMOUTH

neighbour Trentishoe, the line has reached a highest point of
about 1000 feet. Beyond this, it crooks down the valley of
the West Lyn (best glimpses on right hand), coming to
a stop some half-mile behind Lynton, and more than a mile
by the zigzag road from Lynmouth.

The road (IV miles) keeps pretty near the course of the
railway, except in its central stage, where it strikes a mile
further north to Loxhore, before leaving the valley of the
Yeo, then rejoins the railway at Blackmoor.

Another way, preferred for a better cycling surface and
not much longer, is on the right side of the Yeo, turning off
the Ilfracombe road about a mile beyong Pilton, then by the
rich combe of Arlington and up to Kentisbury Ford, whence,
a short 2 miles eastward, one gains the Blackmoor Gate cross
roads.

MINEHEAD TO LYNMOUTH (18 miles)

This is one of the famous coach drives of England, con-
tinuing the G. W. railway route to Minehead. The first
stage is fairly level between the North Hill of Minehead, and
the Exmoor heights rising to Dunkery Beacon ; but at
Porlock begins the ascent of the highest English coast-line
by a series of zigzags ascending Porlock Hill, a proverb for
steepness in the west country, up which all passengers who
can are expected to walk.

Near the highest point (a little over 4 miles) comes in a new
road that, opening through a white gate beyond the Ship Hotel,
takes the ascent in a series of gentler but rather longer curves.
This latter, open to cyclists, is recommended in the C.T.C. Road
Book ; but its lately published " Companion " does not agree with
the preference, very truly remarking that neither way is rideable,
up or down, while the old road gives the more open views.
Pedestrians have a path above the shore, by Olenthorne (p. 214).

Almost at the highest point (about 1400 feet), is Oare
Post, where a road turns off on the left for Oare. The high
road runs, still at a lofty eminence, along heathery moors,
seamed by water-courses, dotted by tumuli, and here and

LYNTON AND LYNMODTH 205

rhere by a straggling wood, or lined by beech hedges that
show bright among the pines. On the seaward side, over
the broken ^nd wooded cliff-edge is a grand prospect of the
Welsh coast. On the left are hidden away Oare and the
Badge worthy Valley (p. 2 1 5). From the top of Porlock Hill
down to Lynmouth is about 8 miles. Nearly half-way, at
the County Gate (p. 214), we enter Devon, and hold on past
Countisbury down another long and formidable descent into
the Lyn Valley, its charms of wood, hill and water well seen
on this approach.

LYNTON AND LYNMOUTH

Hotels at Lynton : The Royal Castle, and The Valley of Rocks, both in their

own grounds and commanding beautiful views ; Cottage, Imperial, Qtieen's,

Crown, Globe, etc.
Hotels at Lynmouth : The Lyndale, Tors, Lyn Valley, Bath, Rising Sun.
Several small Boardlng-Houses have been opened. Lodgings are hard to get

in the height of the season.
Railway : Narrow gauge line from Barnstaple ; station 10 minutes' walk

above Lynton : shortest way up by Globe and Crown Inns.
Coach from Minehead in summer ; and excursion vehicles from Ilfracombe.
Steamers to Ilfracombe from Bristol, etc., land passengers, weather allowing,

by small boats, till the new Pier is built.
A Lift running every few minutes (4d.) connects the two villages.

" Unpaintable Lynmouth ! Charming contrast of civilised
English landscape gardening," exclaims Charles Kingsley;
" strangely and yet harmoniously confronted with the mad
chaos of the rocks and the mountain streams." Southey
tells us how " two rivers join at Lynmouth " — the East and
West Lyns. "Each of these flows down a combe, rolling
over huge stones like a long waterfall ; immediately at
their junction they enter the sea, and the river and the sea
make but one sound of uproar. Of these combes, the one
is richly wooded, the other runs between two high, bare,
stony hills. From the hill between the two is a prospect
most magnificent — on either hand combes, and the river
before the little village. . . . This alone would constitute
a view beautiful enough to repay the weariness of a long
journey ; but to complete it there is the blue and boundless
sea." The houses of the village cluster round the little

206 LYNTON AND LYNMOUTH

bridges spanning the Lyns, and line the west side of the
harbour, such as it is, formed by their mouth, where these
mountain torrents calm down together for a short career on
the level, to enter the sea past a little quay, dignified by a
venerable-looking tower that marks the channel among the
black boulders of the beach. The place has naturally a
somewhat motley aspect, the new hotels and lodging-houses
contrasting with the homes of herring-fishers and smugglers
who once had Lynmouth to themselves ; but still it is not
unworthy of its picturesque surroundings. The new Pier
now to be provided is looked on by many as a doubtful
advantage, likely to flood the place with a class of excur-
sionigts for whom there is little accommodation, and on
whom for the most part its characteristic beauties might be
thrown away. The "Lift" railway itself for many years
has been cursed by conservative and artistic souls, blessed
by unwieldy bodies and rheumatic limbs ; and there are
those who prophesy that the line from Barnstaple will
ruin the charm of the place, as well as its shareholders.

Closely overlooking Lynmouth, and more than 400 feet
above it, stands Lynton, on a platform of high ground.
The road mounts to it from the bottom of the valley by a
series of zigzags carried up the side of the hill ; and there
is a more toilsome climb by most delightful paths. On
reaching the top by the " Lift," the stranger finds himself
in the centre of Lynton, beside the pretty Church and
churchyard. The Post-Ofl&ce and most of the shops lie
opposite, where a steep lane descends to the hollow con-
taining a quaint entanglement of narrow up-and-down streets.
The Parish Church at Lynton has a Perpendicular tower ;
the nave is of later date, whilst the chancel is modern.
There is a new Church at Lynmouth, Early English in
style. Near the upper station of the Lift, a Public Hall
has been presented to the place by Sir G. Newnes, whose
conspicuous mansion, a display of architectural " Tit-bits,"
stands on Holiday Hill high above Lynton, and to whom
it largely owes the communications and developments which
have lately gone so far to alter the character of this once
secluded resort.

LYNTON AND LTNMOUTH 207

Tbough Lynton and Lynmouth are advanced enough to have
electric lightrng, the ordinary distractions of a seaside resort must
by no means be looked for here. Entertainments are exceptional ;
if there be a band it is a novelty ; and the little bit of Esplanade
formed on the rough shore seems merely an impertinence. The
bathing is bad, and not very safe. At Lynmouth men have to
take their chance of the tide upon a rough and rocky beach to the
right. To the left of the harbour there is some kind of accommo-
tion for ladies, but they are not much to be envied. Swimmers
find it best to take a boat ; and the boatmen have an open eye to
profit in this Arcadian nook. More than a mile to the right there
is a good bathing-place on Sillery Sands, reached by a very rough
path from the beach. On the other side, beyond the Valley of
Rocks, a dip may also be had when the spot is not occupied hj
lovers of the beautiful. Caution is always necessary with an out-
going tide. Trout-fishing is permitted by tickets obtainable at
the hotels or the Lynmouth Post-Office. The Exmoor stag-hounds
meet within easy reach, and cub-hunting begins early in a country
that gives unusual advantage to pedestrian Nimrods. Cyclists
had better seek less breakneck roads, though no few of them are
seen daring the steeps of North Devon. Cricket has found an
area in the Valley of Rocks. But the great amusement here is
simply rambling through the lovely scenery that lies around in
all directions, seen at its best when robed in the tender green of
spring or the glorious tints of autumn, yet not wholly obscured by
the shadow of a commonly mild winter.

Before entering on a description of those rambles, we may say a
word as to the comparative advantage of taking up one's quarters
at Lynton or at Lynmouth, "so near and yet so far." Each has
its partisans. Both proclaim an exceedingly low death -rate;
though it may be that their growth will destroy the freedom from
zymotic diseases they now enjoy. Lynmouth, in its sheltered
position, is naturally milder, or, as its adversaries might say, more
relaxing. Lynton is more open and airy. The great lion of
Lynton is the Valley of Rocks ; of Lynmouth, the Watersmeet
among wooded glens through which the sister Lyns make such a
short and merry life of it, tumbling their eager way to the sea in
a succession of cascades. The Lift saves one the steep climb up
and down, which in either case would else add to the fatigue of an
excursion. As a practical point, it may be suggested that the chief
hotels above are rather more expensive than those below. The rest
is a matter of taste. If bracing breezes please you rather, with
airy prospects and rugged cliff scrambles, you will find yourself
more at home in Lynton. Lynmouth will better suit if your
choice be to saunter through a wilderness of deep greenery,
mounting at ease the streams that guide to the bleak uplands of
Exmoor. But from either hill or valley you will soon be drawn
on to the charms of the other ; and, wander where you will, you

208 LYNTON AND LYNMOUTH

cannot go wrong for well-nigh a surfeit of varied loveliness,
whether in the morning you seek the dewy banks of clear, brown
pools, and creaming eddies, and foaming swirls round moss-grown
boulders, and pebbly ripple-reaches beneath the chequered shade ;
or at noonday tramp waist-high among gorse and fern on the
purple moors ; or at evening watch the cliffs, bathed for miles in
a deepening flush of sunset, till their red ribs and green shoulders
grow together into one sombre brown, and dusk hides solemn
outlines as well as bewitching tints.

WALKS AROUND

We cannot undertake to show strangers all the lovely
walks which they are sure to find out for themselves if
they stay long enough at Lynton or Lynmouth ; but we
must indicate the points to which they should first turn,
giving also some hints for extension of these rambles ; then
will come an account of the favourite excursions on either
hand. Not the least beautiful spots lie close at hand or
within an hour's stroll of either village.

Footpaths between Lynton and Lynmouth. — Besides the
regular road between Lynton and Lynmouth, two footpaths
connect the villages, both charming, twisting steeply up the
wooded hillside, for the most part within sight of the sea. They
give, from different points, lovely views of Lynmouth, with its
stream and harbour lying below, of the bay bounded by the huge
Foreland, and of the rich West Lyn valley. In several parts the
banks on either side are literally covered with the hart's-tongue
fern. Both are reached from Lynton by the lane between
the Church and the Valley of Rocks Hotel, which leads to the
North Walk. In a hundred yards or so the first path turns out of
this to the right, rapidly descending the hill by a series of zigzags.
It joins the main road a hundred yards from the bottom, just
before the bridge is reached crossing the West Lyn. The other,
perhaps the more picturesque of the two, leaves the first a short
distance after its commencement, turning sharply to the left, and
keeping close above the sea in its descent. It comes out at the
entrance to the harbour, passing the pretty row of cottages by the
quayside, and terminating at the pier.

The West Lyn Glen opens just behind the village in the
grounds of West Lyn, the lodge gates of which are opposite

L. WALKS AROUND LYNTON AND LYNMOUTH 209

the bridge. Ar small charge is made for admission, the
money collected going to the poor of the place. The way
leads up an avenue to rocky paths running beside the
stream, where a whole afternoon may be spent in admiring
its numerous cascades and rapids, along with beautiful nooks
and points of view that make one envy the owner of such a
scene. Visitors should respect his liberality by avoiding the
side paths that lead to the house and its more private
grounds. At the top of the glen is a grand waterfall, to be
seen at its best after rain. The distance is not much over
half a mile, in which the river falls several hundred feet.

Summerhouse Hill or Lyn Cleave is the rocky height
dividing the East and West Lyn Valleys, its open top
raised over the harbour of Lynmouth and the two glens,
thus giving one a prospect of the scenes to be explored. The
zigzag path is indicated by a sign near, the Lyndale Hotel.
Above, one can range eastward along the heights overlooking
the Watersmeet, or turn down in the other direction, through
a wood, into a road up the valley of the West Lyn. The
latter path (see below) is the easier way up, and the best
from Lynton.

To Barbrook Mill, up the West Lyn, is half an hour's walk
by the Barnstaple road from Lynmouth. If one leave Lynton
by the road descending to Lynmouth, this should be quitted
at the angle of the first zigzag, to keep the road which holds
up the richly-wooded stream.

Three-quarters of a mile up, a hundred yards above a pretty
mill, a small stone bridge to the left crosses the stream, carrying
the road to Brendon (p. 210). Just over this bridge a footpath
strikes off through the woods to the left, leading to Summerhouse
Hill (see above). When Barbrook Mill is reached, one can again
strike off eastwards over the heights towards Brciidon, in 2 miles
crossing the Hoarock Water (p. 210), down which is soon reached
the Watersmeet. The high road mounts on to Parraconibe (p. 203)
for Barnstaple ; and from it one could presently turn right to Lee
(p. 211). The West Lyn would be our guide southwards on to
the moors, dotted here with tumuli and traces of hut circles.

U

210 LYNTON AND LYNMOUTH

The Watersmeet (2 miles) is famous as one of the most
romantic spots in Devon. To the right past the Lyndale
Hotel, the road is followed by the side of the East Lyn,
above which it soon mounts to a considerable height, carried
terrace-wise along the side of the valley, with charming views
of the winding wooded gorge and rapid tumbling river below.
The pedestrian, for one way at least, should follow the
waterside by crossing the Lyn at the first bridge, an orna-
mental wooden one, after leaving Lynmouth, and keeping a
footpath which winds along through the woods close to the
stream with its rapid rushes, creamy brown pools, and foaming
swirls to move the heart alike of artist and angler.

This path leads to Watersmeet House, a haven of refresh-
ment, beside the deep gulf filled with greenery that is the
confluence of the East Lyn and the Hoarock Water. There
are bridges over both streams, by which one can mount to
the road above.

The road goes on up the Hoarock Water, coming down from our
right as we ascend its course, and presently dividing as two streams.
At the gate of Comhe Park there is a parting of ways.

That to the left, over both streams, crosses the hill to the Church
of Brendon and the Rockford Inn (to be gained also by a rough
path up the East Lrjn). In about two miles this road leads on to
the village of Brendon, from which there is a road home by Countis-
hury (p. 214). Up the course of Farley Water (the right branch),
one could reach the heights of Brendon Common, where, to the
south of Brendon, the ground rises over 1300 feet.

The road between the two streams also leads on to wild heights,
and up the Hoarock Water (the left branch) could be gained, about 2
miles back, that called Rohorough Castle, a name repeated in this
vicinity. To the west of this a lane leads back northwards over
the heights between the two Lyns.

Just short of Coinhe Park, a way turned up hill to Barhrook in
the West Lyn Valley (p. 209). A short way home is, at the first
turn of this road, to take a grassy lane mounting to an open down,
from which there is a grand prospect over glens and uplands. The
lane goes through two farms, beyond the second making a crook to
the left, which is an easier way than trying to keep the rough
edge ; and thus we get over Summerhouse Hill (p. 209).

Countisbury is the village and church ij mile up the
height ascended by the Porlock road. A little more than a

WALKS, AROUND LYNTON AND LYNMOUTH 211

lile from Lynmouth, and some half-mile short of Countis-
iiry, a cart-road will be noticed quitting the road at a sharp
igle to the right. This, after passing through an interesting
imp on the top of the hill, with ditch and rampart still quite
istinguishable, leads by a pleasant grass path down the slope
^ain to Lynmouth, keeping 200 feet or so above the high
)ad, and joining it again a quarter of a mile before the Lyn
ridge is reached. This walk keeps the sea in view the
hole way. By continuing along the high road 200 or 300
irds beyond the turning leading to the camp, towards
ountisbury, an excellent view also will be obtained on the
ght, up the deep valley of the East Lyn to Watersmeet.

The Foreland. — By a walk along the cliffs, or by a
irning off from the road beyond Countisbury Church, then
y tracks over the turfy down, we gain this boldly-projecting
oint, 2^ miles to the east of Lynmouth. The view here is
ery extensive, and there is a lovely valley to be scrambled
ito for a sight of its waterfall over the cliff. The Foreland
oint is pierced by several caves, which can be visited, with
ue precaution, at low tides. They are reached from the bay
nown as Sillery Sands, above which runs the cliff path. A
ghthouse is being built on the Foreland ; and the Coast-
iiard Station here makes a far-seen landmark.

Lee Abbey, Valley of Rocks, etc. — The North
Valh is the terrace-way of more than a mile, cut along
le steep and rocky seaward slope of the hill forming the
est side of Lynmouth Bay. It opens from Lynton by the
irning to the right between the churchyard-wall and the
"alley of Rocks Hotel ; from Lynmouth it may be reached,
ithout passing through Lynton, by either of the two foot-
aths which connect the two villages. Before long the
alk brings us past a fantastic mass of rocks, known as
Ragged Jack" To this group has been attached the often-
jpeated legend of people turned into stone for misconducting
lemselves on Sunday. Further on comes a conspicuous
)nical crag, the Castle Rock, which may be ascended by
;ep8. Past the Castle Rock, there is a charming little rock-

212 « LYNTON AND LYNMOUTH

bound cove, reached by a path which zigzags down the cliffs
to the beach. By entering Lee Abbey Park beyond, through
which there is a right of way, and adding a short half-mile
to the walk, Lee Abbey, with its picturesque gateway-towei
and ivy-clad walls, can be seen.

The way home may be taken on the other side of the
heights, by the Valley of Rocks, that famous arena, though
some think it overpraised, shut in between the Castle Kock
and the Devil's Cheesewring, which will be remembered as
one of the scenes in " Lorna Doone." The view of its weird
shadows by moonlight is much admired, and at any time
there are fine rambles over the rough slopes separating it from
the North Walk. The valley is traversed by the road to
Wooda Bay (see below), which leaves Lynton past the Valley
of Kocks Hotel.

At Lee goes off to the left a road that makes a favourite
driving round over Caffini's Down to the Barnstaple road.

TO WOODA BAY, HEDDON'S MOUTH, etc.

Of longer excursions, one of the choicest is that along the
coast to Heddon's Mouth, which may be extended to Combe
Martin, where it falls in with the coach road to Hfracombe.
It is certainly the way to be preferred in walking eastward,
the first part of the coach road turning inland. The distance
is about the same, some 12 miles to Combe Martin, and the
roads are fair, though steep. The start from Lynton is made
through the Valley of Kocks and past Lee Abbey, whence
the way lies along beautifully embowered terraces into the
snug bay opening an hour's walk beyond Lynton.

Wooda Bay or Woody Bay {Glen Hotel) is a lovely nook,
which in our last edition we could speak of as a budding
resort, with two hotels, golf links, pier, eligible building
sites, and a station 2 miles away. These hopes have been
blighted by a strange vicissitude of fortune, which this is
not the place to record. The proprietor now in power has
set his face against the developments fostered by his pre-

p

THE HEDDON VALLEY 213

decessor ; and Lynton sojourners may thank him for wishing
to preserve this nook in its natural beauty. The pier has
gone to ruin ; one of the hotels has been closed ; and little
more than a group of villas remains as the tombstones of ^an
ambitious design.

Onward from Wooda Bay the old road strikes inland over
the height where perches the village of Martinshoe with
its tiny church, then it descends to the Heddon Valley at the
Hunter's Inn (under 2 miles). It is little further to walk
round by the cliffs, one path going past the Glen Hotel, to
be joined by another from the lower part of the bay ; there
is also a new road taking the same line over the lofty
Beacon topping the sea edge. At High Veer Point, the path
turns into a gorge, and from its height looks grandly down
upon Heddon's Mouth, the rock-strewn beach where the
Heddon or Parracombe Water reaches the sea, between
steep banks of striated turf and scree, a scene judged by Mr.
Blackmore far finer than the better-known Valley of Kocks.
The path drops down to the stream, at the mouth of which
comes a footbridge ; then up either bank it is a charming
mile's walk to the Hunter's Inn, that red-roofed hostelry
that in its new pretensions shows a pride aping humility in
keeping to its old name.

Hence the road climbing the wooded height westward leads in
a mile or so to Trentishoe, by which is the shortest way to Combe
Martin (p. 197). The road up the valley leads in about 2 miles to
the Lynton-Barnstaple high road, near Parracombe (p. 203). This
might be gained at more than one point nearer Lynton by taking
the hill road eastward and avoiding its descents on the left to
Wooda Bay.

THE SOMERSET SIDE

Before leaving this corner of Devon, we are bound to say
something of favourite excursions which would take us into
the neighbouring county and on to Exmoor. The road by
which we came from Minehead (p. 204) is renowned for its

214 ^ LYNTON AND LYNMOUTH

lofty prospects; and one has the help of the coach in taking
it over the steep 12 miles to Porlock, an ancient village in
a bay sheltered by wooded hills, within a few miles' reach of
which is the ascent of Dunkery Beacon (1709 feet), the
highest point on Exmoor. A good walker might take the
road to Porlock and return by the cliff path.

Without going so far, there are two notable points lying
on either side of the County Gate, represented by a cottage
between 4 and 5 miles out, on the long ascent of Oare Hill.
This point itself is over 1000 feet above the sea.

Glenthome, on the shore below, is a mansion celebrated
for its beautiful grounds and woods, which by the proprietor's
liberality have long been open to visitors, though the house
is not shown. The entrance is by a white gate on the main
road near the county boundary, for carriages, and a black
gate, not far off, for pedestrians. So steep is the descent of
less than a mile that the drive makes 3 miles of bending, to
be halved by a footpath cutting off the zigzags, above
which rises the bold camp of Oldharrow, overlooking a noble
prospect.

One can take a longer way back, walking round the cliffs by the
Foreland (p. 211), where the distance is reduced to about 7 miles by
cutting across the back of this point, to join the high road at
Countishury ChiLrch, or regain the cliff path above the Sillery
Sands.

Below the County Gate, on the inland side, lies Malms-
mead Bridge, across the Badgeworthy Water (locally
Badgery), forming the border of Devon and Somerset, and
here falling into the East Lyn, which above becomes known
as the Oare Water. A rather longer way is up the East
Lyn, by the road passing the Watersmeet to Brendon (p. 210),
or so far one might trace on foot the windings of the river.
The nucleus of Brendon is MiUslade with its Staghuntei^s
Inn; and this much- visited valley again affords refreshment
at Malmsmead Bridge, 2 miles further on. More than one
charming byway connects the winding valley road with the
Porlock high road above. In Somerset, across the bridge, a

f; "lorna doone" 215

short mile of road leads to Oare, with its little church in a
wood, celebrated by the experiences of " John Eidd." The
Snowe family mentioned in the novel and commemorated
in the church still flourishes here, as it has done from almost
immemorial days, and Mr. Blackmore seems to have had
their house in his eye for the giant hero's.

"Lorna Doone " would not be such a charming story but for its
author's imagination ; some of its incidents, however, have a
foundation in fact. The feats of "great John Ridd" are vaguely
traditional in the district ; and in the grounds of Oare House are
the lower limbs of an ash tree said to have been bent down by his
strength. The Doones were a family of reckless outlaws who from
this Adullam infested Exmoor about two centuries ago, and were
not got rid of till, by a peculiarly barbarous murder at Exford,
they drove the country-folk to exasperation. Another sinister
hero of this wild region, also figuring, rather too favourably, we
fear, in "Lorna Doone," was Tom Faggus, the highwayman, who
still lives dimly in popular memory as a kind of cross between
Dick Turpin and Robin Hood.

The Doone Valley on Badgeworthy Water is often sought out
by visitors, who are apt to be disappointed by what they find
here, after the heightened picture of the romance. It lies under
Badgeworthy Hill, an hour's walk above Malmsmead Bridge, on
the left side of the stream. A refreshment house on the way is
called Lorna's Bower. One keeps up the stream to a wood of oak
trees, beside which a tributary tumbles down a glen over a series of
tiny falls. This is John Ridd's " Waterslide," which can be more
easily tracked upwards than in his case. Crossing it by a bridge
the path leads on for about a mile ; then one turns on the right
by another brook into a side combe where a single cottage looks
down on the Doone Houses, or rather hovels, that at no time can
have been anything but the roughest dwellings, and are now little
more than a trace of ruined enclosures. It is quite easy to get out
upon the moor beyond, where by a tale-teller's license Mr. Black-
more has made the difficulty of egress and ingress worthy of a
hero. To find one's way back to the East Lyn over Brendon Com-
mon is more difficult ; and those who cannot trust to map and
compass had better return to the safe course of the Badgeworthy
Water.

Exmoor. — Most of this wild upland, a smaller Dartmoor
of some 20,000 acres, lies in Somerset, and we can only afford
space for glimpses of it on the first stage of the highway
crossing it to Dulverton (26 miles). This again is the road

216 THE SOMERSET SIDE

up the East Lyn by the Watersmeet, but beyond, turning
south to mount by Brendon Barton and Farley Hill. In
about 6 miles, at Brendon Two Gates, it enters Somerset,
and runs high over the wildest part of Exmoor. Three
or four miles further, in the Barle valley, comes what
may be called the capital of this huge parish, Simonsbath
(Rufus Hotel), a pleasantly and loftily situated village, well
known to anglers, and a good centre for exploring Exmoor.

The name is said to come from an outlaw, some prehistoric Tom
Faggus, who is supposed to have swum in the deep pool above the
bridge of the Barle ; but a more recondite derivation connects it
with Sigmund the dragon-slayer. The place has less dim memories
of Tom Faggus himself, the dubious hero of the district. Among
its lines of beech-trees reared against the moorland blasts, it makes
an oasis of shade and gi-een, testifying to efforts at improvement
made by the Knight family, former proprietors of Exmoor ; but
their unfinished mansion, which is the principal building, hints
at a confession of failure. The Church is a modern one, built by
this family, who bought the whole moor nearly a hundred years
ago, and spent large sums in trying to reclaim it, seldom even
with such success as appears about this village. It now belongs to
the Fortescue family.

The blunt swellings of the Somerset wilderness seldom rise to
picturesque points like the Tors of Dartmoor ; yet Exmoor too has
impressive features, and beautiful spots in the deepening course of
its streams. North-westward from Simonsbath extends the boggy
tract known as the Chains, from which drain the sources of tbe
Exe and the Barle. To the north-west of its central barrow,
Pinkery Pond, an artificial piece of water, is notable as the only
thing like a lake on Exmoor. A little west of this, presently
turning along the north side of the Chains, runs the fence called
the County Wall, making a right angle by which one might regain
the high road at Two Gates, about a mile to the west of which is
the source known as Exe Head. Outside of the angle, a little to
the west of the County AVall, are reached Chapman Barrows (about
1600 feet) in the Devonshire corner of the moor, here dotted with
tumuli and other signs of antiquity, such as the Longstone, a pillar
9 feet high, w^hose history is unknown. Beyond, one could come
down to Parracombe, on the Lynton-Barnstaple road (p. 203).

West from Simonsbath a road leads in about 4 miles to the
County Wall, then nearly 2 miles south-west is Showlsborough
Castle (1528 feet), a Roman camp, guarding this side of the moor,
with another fine view over Devonshire, whose first village, Challa-
combe, lies beyond. Showlsborough is one point of a ridge along
this side of the moor, by which one may steer an arduous course

i

THE SOMERSET SIDE 21'

north to Lynton, 7 or 8 miles in a straight line. From the
angle of the County Wall, a pretty direct way goes down to
the West Lyn Valley at Barhrook Mill (p. 209).

If the wary pedestrian followed the County Wall eastward from
the high road, in about 3 miles he would strike the head streams
of the Badgeworthy Water (p. 214) to guide him down to the East
Lyn.

The Exe and the Barle flowing south-eastward in roughly parallel
courses till they converge below Dulverton, are lines over Exmoor
to the Devon and Somerset railway on its south side (p. 181).

BIDEFORD AND TORRINGTON

BARNSTAPLE TO BIDEFORD

Anotlier branch of tlie L. & S.-W. R. runs on from
Barnstaple Junction through Bideford to Torrington, at pre-
sent its terminus, though a connection with the Plymouth
line across the Torridge country has been talked of for long.
The best road (9 miles), if not quite the shortest, to Bideford,
keeps near the railway, beside the estuary of the Taw river ;
and after passing Instow, ascends the bank of the Torridge
to Bideford Bridge. These broad and winding tidal rivers,
surrounded by gently undulating hills and rich woods, make
a pretty picture at high tide ; but the railway time-tables
are naturally not arranged to show them always in their
best aspect. At Fremington (3 miles from Barnstaple) the
Taw gets clear of its sandbanks, and deepens into an arm of
the sea. Three miles further comes Instow, and, just be-
yond, Instow Quay, at the meeting-point of the two rivers,
the Taw and the Torridge. There are stations both at
Fremington and Instow Quay. The latter is a small water-
ing-place {Marine Hotel\ with lodging-houses and good sands
for children.

Across the water, at Fremington, appear Heanton Court (p. 185)
and the tower of Heanton Punchardon Church, beyond which
is the point covered by Braunton Burrows (p. 186). Opposite
Instow, the two little towns looking at each other with white-
washed faces, lies the quaint old seaport of Appledore (p. 224), on
the point of land jutting out into the broad estuary of the Taw,
above the Bar which mariners have here to reckon with. There

218

BIDEFORD 219

is a ferry between Appledore and Instow Quay. The prominent
tower beyond Appledore is not any historical monument, but a
"Folly." Further back in the country will be seen a more
romantic-looking ruin, which is only a dilapidated windmill, left
there as a sea-mark, serving also to call attention to Bloody Corner,
not far from it, where King Alfred defeated the Danes under
Hubba.

From Instow to Bideford is 3 miles up the bank of the
Torridge, below rising ground on which stands the village of
Westleigh.

On the opposite bank, a glimpse of its ship-repairing
hamlet Cleavehouses, warns us that we are approaching Bide-
ford.

BIDEFORD

Hotels : Royal, at the station ; The New Inn, above the town ; Tanton's,
Kingsley Temperance, etc.

By-the-Ford, with its present population of some 9000,
was once a wealthy and important seaport town ; and
in the reign of Queen Bess none were more forward, even
amongst the intrepid men of Devon, than they of Bide-
ford, in voyages of discovery and adventure. After a period
of decadence, it now takes on a fresh air of prosperity, not a
little of which it owes to Charles Kingsley' s famous novel
attracting so many tourists.

" Westward Ho ! " is read here as religiously as " Lorna Doone "
at Lynton ; and what Scott was to Perthshire, Kingsley is to this
side of Devon. It may, then, seem superfluous to quote his
account of "the little white town of Bideford, sloping upwards
from its broad tide-river, paved with yellow sands, and many-
arched old bridge, where salmon wait for autumn floods, toward
the pleasant upland on the west. Above the town the hills close
in, cushioned with deep oak woods, through which juts here and
there a crag of fern-fringed slate ; below they lower, and open
more and more in softly-rounded knolls and fertile squares of red
and green, till they sink into the wide expanse of hazy flats, rich
salt marshes, and rolling sand-hills, where Torridge joins her sister
Taw, and both together flow quietly toward the broad surges of
the bar, and the everlasting thunder of the long Atlantic's swell."

220 » BIDEFORD

" Westward Ho ! " was in part written in what is now the
Royal Hotel, adjoining the station, the owner of which possessed
a collection of rare works consulted both by Kingsley and the late
Mr. Froude. This is one of the most interesting houses in Bide-
ford, incorporating portions of the original structure, which
belonged to a tobacco merchant of the 17th century. More than
one of the rooms have line ceilings ornamented with fruit, foliage,
etc., in relief, the Italian workmanship of which is well worth
inspection. Visitors who can afford to pay for such accommoda-
tion may occupy the lordly chamber in which the novelist wrote.
The old oak staircase leads up from a covered courtyard in con-
tinental style ; and the billiard room opens on to the platform of
the station, so that here the 17th and the 19th centuries are
closely joined.

From the suburb about the station, known as " East the
Water," we look over the long bridge, with its twenty-four
arches, upon the Quay that makes the face of the town, its
streets sloping steeply upwards. The " Old Ship " tavern
here claims to be the original hostelry in which was founded
that " Brotherhood of the Eose." The Castle Inn occupies
the site of Sir Eichard Grenville's town house. The most
striking structure is the Bridge Hall, built by the Bridge
Trust, whose endowments have made it such an important
corporation. This contains the School of Science and Art
and the Free Library, in which are displayed two autograph
letters of Charles Kingsley. The Toivn Hall opposite is
not an old building, but a good imitation of one.

Eather hidden away behind this we find the Church,
which dates from early in the 14th century, but was rebuilt
in 1865, with the exception of the tower, 70 feet high. It
contains a circular Norman font, and the tomb and figure of
Sir Thomas Graunfyld (died 1513), also a brass erected by
one of his descendants to the gallant Sir Eichard Grenville,
and some fine modern glass, notably the window in the
south aisle to the memory of Sir George Stucley's wife.
Another noticeable monument is to John Strange, a 17th-
century worthy of Bideford, who died fighting the plague —
a worse enemy than the Spaniard. The old oak car\ings
have almost all disappeared. The churchyard is rich in
curious epitaphs.

The other streets have not much architectural pretension.

BIDEFORD 221

The High Street, where the Post-Office and the best shops
are, leads up from the Quay, a little below the bridge. Mill
Street, another main thoroughfare, rather narrow and crooked,
runs parallel to the Quay, going out as the road to Westward
Ho. The Quay is continued as a pleasant walk along the
riverside, past a little park where in summer Bideford pro-
vides music for its visitors. The old guns kept on the river-
side are believed to be possibly relics of the Spanish Armada.
Above the bridge the town soon comes to an end, where
the winding river, enclosed between wooded banks, might at
high water be taken for a landlocked lake. Boating is to be
had here by studying the tide, for at low water the channel
shrinks between wide flats of sand or mud. With the tide
boats can go up the Yeo, a tributary falling into the left
bank of the Torridge, some 2 miles above Bideford.

A fine view of the river is commanded on the other side from
Chiodleigh Fort, the remains of an entrenchment of the Civil War
time, overlooking the town above the railway, and reached by a
private road from the station. In this direction one might hold on
some three miles to the ancient Church of Horwood, which lies a
little off the right of the shorter inland road to Barnstaple.

There are good views also from the heights on the west side.
An excuse for a walk here would be a visit to Littleham (2 m. ),
which is reached by different ways, the most simple perhaps being
to take the road past the cemetery indicated by a guide-post ; but
a finer walk is by the third turning up from the high road skirting
the left bank of the river upwards, on to heights that widely
overlook the estuary ; or for part of the way one may go through
Sir George Stucley's drive. The attraction at Littleham is a
splendid Church, recently restored and sumptuously adorned.
The carved oak screen is a reproduction of the original one.
Another striking ornament is the marble altar-tomb to General
Crealock.

The excursion least likely to be missed here is that to
Westward Ho, which might be called a suburb or dependency
of Bideford, facing the open sea on the other side of the point
ended by Northam Burrows. From the lower end of the
Quay, a short railway now runs to Northam by Westward Ho.
There are also omnibuses from Bideford Station. By road
the distance is over 3 miles, but a pleasanter footway reduces
it one-third.

222

BIDEFORD

Leaving the town by Mill Street, as soon as the Northam Road
has crossed a pretty valley, shut in by wooded heights, we find a
road turn up to the left with a direction-post for Westward Ho.

IValkcr & Boutall i

Plan of Westward Ho, showing the position of the Golf Links on the
Burrows, and the relative positions of Northam, Bideford, and Barnstaple.

About 100 yards up this road, where the telegraph wire also goes
off, the pedestrian should take a path to the right that in ten
minutes will bring him through fields to a road, along which a
short turn to the right puts him once more under charge of a guide-
post. Further up the road there is another guide-post, but he is now
in sight of the first houses of Buckleigh, the upper part of Westward
Ho, built on a cliff, from which he soon looks down on the rest of
the place scattered along the sloping shore as far as the edge of
the golf links that have made its fortune.

WESTWARD HO

Hotels : Royal, Pebble Ridge, Fosketh's Private Hotel, Tonndge House, etc.

This resort, which had the happy thought of christening
itself from the novel, is a watering-place of quite unique
character, inhabited mainly by retired " captains and colonels
and knights-at-arms," Anglo-Indians, grass and grey widows
of gentility, and other persons connected with the Services,
who find here congenial society and healthful retreat. The
nucleus of the place is the United Service College, at first
limited to offi.cers' sons, but afterwards opened to laymen at
rather higher rates. The main interest, apart from educa-
tion, is golf, which, besides reigning supreme at its own club-
house on the links, is accused of too much invading the other

WESTWARD HO 223

social cercle also. You can live at Westward Ho without
playing golf, but you might as well stay away without
a proper introduction into its society. The best passport is
membership of the golf club ; and any military or naval
family who have the least acquaintance here will quickly be
received with open arms. In summer there are some
temporary visitors, but for them the accommodation of
lodging- and boarding-houses is rather scanty, and much run
upon by the golfers.

Among the lines and groups of villas inhabited by this
colony several buildings are prominent. The first reached
by the road to Northam is the College, built to be a terrace
before it was turned into a school. Beyond are the buildings
of a more unfortunate institution — the Kingsley Memorial
College — which stands with broken windows, a memorial of
failure, sadly at a loss what to do with itself, though various
projects have been set on foot for turning it to account.
Then comes the Royal (formerly Westward Ho) Hotel, beyond
which, on the shore, a curious-looking building, ended by a
low tower, is the Nassau Swimming Bath.

Hence, turning back eastwards along the shore, we come
to another building known as the Ladies^ Baths, which serves
chiefly as refreshment rooms for excursion parties. A little
further along begins the famous Pebble Kidge, 2 miles or
more long, which forms the bulwark of Northam Burrows,
recalling in the size and smoothness of its stones the no-less-
famous Chesil Beach at Portland. Not even such a bulwark
can defy the seas which sometimes roll against it ; the Ridge
has been altered in shape and position within our own day, and
is said to have been thrown back several yards in one night.
Beyond it lies buried a submerged forest, petrified remains
from which may be seen at the Athenaeum of Barnstaple.
Behind extend the Golf Links, the club-house now built well
inland, after having been once driven back by the invading
waves. This fine course rivals that of St. Andrews, and has
mainly been the making of Westward Ho. The hazards
chiefly consist of big bunkers, tall rushes, and small water-
channels, dry in summer. One advantage the Westward Ho
Links certainly have over other Devonian ones, in lying low

224 BIDEFORD

and requiring no preliminary toil of climbing on the part of
eager but elderly players.

From Westward Ho, if a longer walk were desired, one
could pleasantly return to Bideford by turning south to
Gornborough and Abbotsham Glifs, thence inland by Abbots-
ham, where there is a church worth seeing : this would be
a round of about 5 miles. But the opportunity might as
well be taken to visit Northam and Appledore in the other
direction, about a mile lying between each of these places.
From Westward Ho, the straightest way to Appledore is
across Northam Burrows ; but after running the gauntlet of
golf balls, one comes into a marshy tract more fit for the
geese of the Northam " pot- wallopers." We can go through
Northam by two roads, one leading under, the other above
the cliff.

Northam, to which parish Westward Ho belongs, is
chiefly interesting to us as the imaginary home of Amyas
Leigh and burial-place of Salvation Yeo. The Church has
been rebuilt since their day, and so has Burrough House, a
little way out towards the estuary. In the village a grass
mound is said to mark the burial-place of the slain in a great
battle between Saxon and Dane ; and on the way to
Appledore is Bloody Corner, where Alfred did defeat the
Danes under Hubba, unless Stogursey in Somerset can make
good its claim to be the scene of this event. A pillar marks
the spot, not far from that ruined mill already mentioned as
a landmark. On the shore is a rock known as the Hubbastone,
where Devonshire men believe that the Danish chieftain
landed to find a tomb.

Appledore, so lovingly dwelt on by the author of
" Westward Ho ! " is a quaint old home of sea-dogs, with
narrow cobbled streets and alleys running down to the water
edge, where the place has a very nautical air, not to speak of
the smells. It strikes one as being now, on a smaller scale,
what Bideford may have been in its palmy days. The
smart, fresh look old Appledore presents from the opposite
bank hardly bears closer examination, but is resolved into
another form of picturesqueness, while the new parts are

TORRINGTON 225

clean and commonplace enough. A good deal of ship-
building and repairing go on here, but there is little to
interest the mere landsman except the views from above.

We may hence cross to Instow Quay by the ferry (p. 218)
and walk up the other side of the river to Bideford Station
(3 miles), or else return by the road through Northam, about
the same distance, with the chance of an omnibus on the way.
Any one who has the bump of locality will have little
difficulty in leaving the road to find his way by paths nearer
the water, leading through fields to the hamlet of Cleave-
houses, beyond which begins the river walk from the Quay.
Yet the road, rather shut in as it is, may prove the shorter
cut in the end.

TORRINGTON

Globe Hotel ; Hcdsdon Private Hotel, etc.

This is another place which no one should fail to visit
from Bideford. It is seven miles up the river, the terminus
of the railway, which gives only tantalising glimpses of those
lovely banks. There is a choice of roads ; the one to be re-
commended being that along the left bank, which presently
crosses the mouth of the Yeo to strike up a hill, but in
general runs fairly level between the wooded heights and the
river whose windings it follows more or less faithfully. The
return from Torrington might be made either on the right
side, or by a slight circuit on the heights above the left bank
so as to pass the ruins of Frithelstock, an Augiistinian
Priory, then Monkleigh with its prominent church tower,
and so down through Landcross to the river.

The Yeo bridge, then the village of Landcross, supposed
birthplace of General Monk, left behind on the river road,
through the trees above there is a glimpse of Annery, one of
the mansions celebrated in " Westward Ho ! " then half-way
to Torrington comes a fine view of Wear Gifford on the
further bank, to be reached by a toll bridge, or from the
old Torrington Road running behind it. From our road
opposite, the grey ivied pile of the Hall, the Church, and the

15

226 ^ TORRINGTON

Rectory make a very striking group. The interior of the
house is not shown to the public, but the tourist would be
fortunate who could come by a sight of its tapestried
chambers and the elaborately carved roof of the hall. The
Strawberry Gardens of Wear Gifford are open to him.

Three miles more bring us to the station of Great
Torrington, as its full style is, Little Torrington lying to
the south. A short cut is made by taking the last mile or
so along the line ; but we are not quite sure how far the
L. & S.-W. R. Co. consent to this convenience. The station
stands a good part of a mile short of the town (omnibus)^
which lies on the further slope, and we must mount to it
over a Common. We make its first acquaintance by two
remarkable features : on the left a cemetery that suggests a
nobleman's grounds ; on the right an unusually picturesque
Union with pretty garden and chapel. In returning to the
station, a pleasant detour could be made by keeping down
the cemetery wall, and striking through a fern-clad valley.

The first street entered beyond the cemetery is hardly up
to the promise of this introduction, so we advise the stranger
to hold by the edge of the Common, round the Union wall,
where he will look over a fine bend of the Torridge. Coming
down into the town this way, he soon sees the Fountain and
Clock Tower in the Market Place, at the edge of which a
nook of green guides him into the Churchyard. The old
Church was blown up in the Civil War, but its successor is
not unworthy of the place ; it contains a fine reredos. Close
at hand he will find the small remains of the Castle, then on
Castle Hill an Obelisk set up as a Waterloo monument.
From the Castle Bowling Green there is a celebrated view,
which has caused Torrington to be likened to Jerusalem.
Bowling has always been held in special esteem at Torrington,
which is to this game almost what St. Andrews is to golfing ;
but here there are also golf links on the Common. The
industry that keeps this town of three to four thousand in-
habitants so prosperous is glove-making, as Bideford has for
its staple the idyllic manufacture of collars and cuflFs.

Another enterprise of the district is the North Devon Clay
JVorks at Marland (5 miles), to which a beautifully wooded

TORRINGTON 227

walk might be taken by the light railway built to bring the
clay to Torrington Station.

The Torridge. — Besides bowling, fis*iing is a great pastime
at Torrington, and one need not be a very ardent devotee of
Izaac Walton to take any excuse for visiting the lovely
course of the Torridge. We regret that space does not allow
us to go much further into a country little visited by tourists,
where an independent explorer would find it well worth his
while to wander by villages mostly perched high over the
wooded valley.

Such a lofty village is Beaford — some half-dozen miles by
road — overlooking from the right bank sinuous curves of the
river, which above Torrington receives another of Devon's many
Yeo streams, their confluence a charming scene. Above Beaford,
Yew Bridge is one of the finest spots, over which stands Dolton,
with its pretty church, containing an ancient font. On the
left side, a little higher up, Meath Church is an example of the
fast-disappearing style of galleried and whitewashed architecture.
Here the river may usually be crossed by stones at the ford ; then
soon one comes to the junction of the Okement, which one might
follow up to the purlieus of Dartmoor. A little above the con-
fluence is HeU Bridge, a couple of miles from Hatherleigh (p. 175).
The distance so far is about ten miles from Torrington as the crow
flies ; but one would have to do with devious roads, and would
often be tempted to turn aside to the winding Torridge, two or
three bends of which may be seen from one point.

The vigorous pedestrian would do well in keeping with this
crooked river towards its sources on the Cornish border, close to
the head of the Tamar, following it at all events to Black Tor-
rington (inn), then perhaps striking across to Halwill Junction.
Several miles higher up, at Woodford Bridge (inn), he would cross
the road by which it is 7 miles to Holsworthy Junction, and only
about as far back to Torrington. So great is the bend taken by
this river that as he approaches its source, one who has tracked it
up from Torrington comes nearer its mouth than he has been on
most of a long day's meandering course.

This is no cyclists' paradise, but for their guidance we may
mention some distances from Torrington.

To OkeTiampton (p. 168) by Little Torrington, Hele Bridge, and
Hatherleigh, 25 miles.

To Holsworthy (p. 174) by Frithelstock, 15 miles.

To Hartland Point (p. 231) by the Yeo Valley, about 20 miles.

To Umberleigh Station (p. 180), 9 miles.

To Barnstaple (p. 182), 13 miles.

228 CLOVELLT

CLOVELLY AND HARTLAND

We have left to the last the most famous excursion in
these parts, which will bring us to the boundary of Devon.
Everybody has heard of Clovelly, that quaint village hanging
in a cliff-cleft, so steep that the thoroughfare seems a ladder
rather than a street, and so narrow as to be impassable for
any carriage larger than a wheelbarrow, the whole embedded
in rich woods and the rare blooms flourishing here like
weeds. Bideford is the nearest town (11 miles) to this
romantic nook. Besides excursion parties frequently made
up at Bideford, coaches run both morning and afternoon in
summer ; and all the year the mail carriage leaving Bideford
Post-Office early in the morning will take passengers who
have booked places the night before. Parties of not less
than eight, reaching Bideford with through tickets by early
morning train, can have a special conveyance provided on
previous notice to the stationmaster. By boat, also, Clovelly
is visited from Instow or Appledore. But the safest and
most satisfactory way of going there is on one's own legs,
especially as the last 3 miles, to be fully enjoyed, should in
any case be so done.

By taking advantage of any of the public conveyances one way,
as far as the Hobby Drive, the tourist who shrinks from a 25-mile
walk might keep himself fresh for walking back along the coast, so
as to visit Buckish {or Bucks) Mill, a cove 2 or 3 miles east,
which some think as fine as Clovelly itself. At low tide one can
walk along the shore, else it will be necessary to take the road
from the Hobby Drive till the lane for Buckish is reached. As
another way back to Bideford, instead of keeping the high road, we
may strike off at Home's Cross to gain the coast again at the wild
rocks of Peppercombe, and thence return by Abbotsham or by
Westward Ho (p. 222). The walk along the beach from Pepper-
combe to Westward Ho, however, is rather fatiguing.

The coach road goes up the steep streets of Bideford to
follow pleasant heights some little way back from the sea.
Outside of the town there are views of the finely timbered
grounds of Moreton, then in about 3 miles is passed Portledge
House, seat of the Coffin family for many centuries. The

CLOVELLY 229

Hoops Inn is half-way to Clovelly ; and here we might
descend to reach those other points of the coast already
mentioned. At Clovelly Gross, more than a mile from the
village, the coach running on to Bude must be left, a wag-
gonette being provided, which vehicle again does not carry
passengers quite into the village, where donkeys are the only
means of transport. But those who can walk at all should by
all means have left the coach 8 miles from Bideford, at the
entrance to the famous ** Hobby " Drive, constructed by a
former owner of the great house of the neighbourhood,
Clovelly Court. A charge of 4d. is made for admission ; Is. for
carriages. This way winds through lovely woods over-
hanging the sea for nearly 3 miles, and finally opens into the
village street about the middle, a quarter of a mile above the
harbour.

Clovelly still retains its unsophisticated charms, though
so much visited, and rising not only as a show place but as a
resort with lovers of the beautiful. In summer its contracted
and unconventional accommodations are much run upon.
Its chief hostelries are the New Inn, half-way up, and the
Red Lion, down below on the harbour, both in keeping with
the place. On fine days these inns are apt to be invaded by
steamboat excursionists from Ilfracombe.

The name Clovelly is understood to mean "a shut-in
valley," which but tamely describes the situation of this place.
The slope in parts is almost precipitous, and has every here
and there to be overcome by steps. The only patch of level
is a sort of landing in the street-staircase, two-thirds of the
way down, commanding a view of the harbour, which forms
a village-centre and eyrie for the local mariners. Pretty
cottages line the street on either side, here two or three
together, there standing apart, almost all with gardens,
perched on every coign of vantage, and turned at any angle
to the winding thoroughfare. At one point the village
seems to end abruptly, till the stranger discovers that the
road is literally carried through a house, which blocks the
way, by means of an archway. A little below, the tiny
harbour is reached, with its quaint little rustic pier,
sheltering red -sailed fishing-boats, while the whole of this

230 CLOVELLY

fishermen's Arcadia is embowered and half- hidden in trees ,
which come down to meet the odours of tar, fish, and brine,
rising to suggest one side of its mingled characteristics. J

The Church contains many monuments of the Carys,
and a brass to the memory of Charles Kingsley, who has
brought so many strangers to this " strip of semi-tropic para-
dise," which he judges unsurpassed in England. His father
was rector of Clovelly, and thus both the sons came by their
enthusiastic admiration of this country. Clovelly seems to
have sat in part for the picture of ' ' Ravenshoe " in Henry
Kingsley's novel ; it is believed also to have furnished some
features for " Aberalva " in his brother's Two Years Ago. But
indeed it has been often described, notably in Dickens's
Message from the Sea.

Besides the Hohhy Drive, the following are the chief points to
be visited about Clovelly.

Clovelly Dikes. Where the village road joins the main Bide-
ford and Hartland Road will be found the extensive circular
British Camp, known as Ditchen Hills, otherwise Clovelly Dikes,
occupying a lofty position a little way back from the sea. The
three trenches vary from 18 to 20 feet in depth ; the diameter of
the outer trench is 1300 feet, the inner one forms a parallelogram
of about 360 by 300 feet. There is a wide view from the top of the
Dikes, where the rich loveliness of Clovelly may be seen set in
relief against the bleak moorlands behind. A return might be
made by the Hobby Drive. The pedestrian should turn to the left
from the Dikes eastwards along the Bideford Road ; and again to
the left at right angles at the second turning on that side, by a
lane which joins the Hobby Drive a mile out of Clovelly. This
lengthens the whole walk to nearly 4 miles.

Clovelly Court is half a mile to the west of the village. The
mansion close to the church is a modern one, the old home of the
Carys having been burned down at the end of last century. The
grounds are open to visitors by favour of the owner every day but
Tuesday and Saturday, a small charge being made, which goes to
charities : admission by the Yellery Gate. They are of great beauty,
the paths winding by lichen-covered rocks and through leafy glens
and ferny combes opening suddenly upon the sea. The show of
rhododendrons early in the season is very fine.

Gallantry Bower, strange name for such a stern scene, is a sheer
cliff (380 feet) which overlooks a glorious panorama of sea on the
one side and richly- wooded country on the other. The name is
probably a corruption of an old Cornish word, but it has prompted
a version of the well-worn legend of a Lover's Leap. It stands

HARTLAND 231

ibout a mile, as the crow flies, westwards along the coast from
Jlovelly Harbour. To reach it the way is through the grounds of
2!lovelly Court, then striking down to the coast, and for the last
aalf-mile keeping the ridge of the cliffs.

Mouth Mill, a pretty combe, where two streams unite, opening
to the sea, is reached by continuing along the same track half a
mile further. Off the headland forming the eastern boundary of
the little bay are the curious detached Black Church Rocks, worn
by the Atlantic waves into large natural arches, through which a
boat may safely pass in calm weather. The pools here make a rich
tiunting-ground for naturalists. From Mouth Mill the return may
be varied by following the cart-road up the western branch of the
eombe for half a mile, then taking the first turning to the left,
which mounts the hillside and rejoins the Gallantry Bower route
Qear Clovelly Court, returning past it again to Clovelly. This
round altogether makes about 4 miles.

Beyond Clovelly comes the huge and wild parish of
Hartland, a bare upland country of rounded tops, between
which nestle rich hollows. The mail-cart from Bideford goes
on to Hartland town, returning in the afternoon. From the
cross-roads at Clovelly Dikes to Hartland {King's Arms Hotel)
is 3j miles further along the Bideford Eoad, or over 5 from
Clovelly. The village lies at the base of Hartland Point,
traversed by winding lanes, on which it is not hard to lose
one's way, soon to be brought up by approach to the coast on
either hand. Hartland Quay, a rock-bound harbour and pier,
2j miles beyond Hartland, terminates the main road from
Bideford, being 16 miles distant from that town.

Between Hartland and Hartland Quay is passed the stately
mansion of Hartland Abbey, a seat of the old family of Stucley,
reposing amid luxuriant woods on a gi-een and pleasant valley-slope.
Of the ancient monastery — founded by the Countess Elgitha in
grateful commemoration of the escape of her husband, Earl Godwin,
from shipwreck — the present mansion embodies the Decorated
arched cloister, built by Abbot John of Exeter. Near this, on a
height, stands the fine old church of Stoke St. Nectan, with its
ornate rood-screen and other relics, among them a replica of that
curious epitaph, "Here lie I at the chancel door," etc., which we
saw at Kingsbridge (p. 90).

By a path from Stoke Churchyard, or along the coast from
Hartland Quay it is some 3 miles' walk to the Lighthouse on
Hartland Point, a grand headland of dark rock (350 feet) jutting
out into the Atlantic towards Lundy Island. Hence one can return
to Clovelly by rough coast paths.

232 THE CORNWALL BORDER i

Into Cornwall. — Southward, some lialf-a-dozen miles
along the coast from Hartland Quay, or by lanes from Hart-
land and Stoke St. Nectan, one could reach the picturesque
village of Welcombe, with another old church of St. Nectan,
lying close to the Cornish border, a good mile inland from
the little bay of Welcombe Mouth. Some quarter of a
mile further, on the actual border-line of Cornwall, — the
brook that here enters the sea dividing the counties — is
Marsland Mouth, scene of the interview in "Westward
Ho ! " between the fair " Kose of Torridge " and the " White
Witch" ; and Kingsley is not the only novelist who has taken
impressive scenery from this iron-bound, storm-lashed coast,
broken by the characteristic combes, each with " its black
field of jagged shark's-tooth rock, which paves the cove from
side to side, streaked with here and there a pink line of shell
sand, and laced with white foam from the eternal surge,
stretching in parallel lines out to the westward, in strata set
upright on edge or tilted towards each other at strange angles
by primeval earthquakes : — such is the ' Mouth ' — as those
coves are called. To landward, all richness, softness, and
peace ; to seaward, a waste and howling wilderness of rock
and roller, barren to the fisherman, and hopeless to the ship-
wrecked mariner."

But now we have strayed into the limits of our Cornwall
Guide. Some 2 miles over the border is the first Cornish
village, Morwenstow, standing on the wild cliffs famed by its
former vicar, K. S. Hawker, the poet. Further south, 16
miles from Hartland byroad, comes Bude, teTminna of the short
L. and S.-W. R. branch line from Holsworthy (p. 174), 10 miles
away, on the western edge of Devon.

CYCLING ITINERAEY OF DEVON

{The figures given as round numbers, fractioTis neglected ; and,
in doubt, the longer distance usually preferred)

ROADS FROM EXETER

EXETER TO LYME REGIS

(by the Coast) 39 Miles.

Miles.
4
5
2
5
3

Topsham (p. 39)
Lympstone (p. 89)
Exmouth (p. 40)
Budleigli Salterton (p. 21)
Otterton (p. 20)
Sidmouth (p. 17)

[left to Honitoa (p. 11) 9 miles]
Seaton (p. 7) 9

[left to Axmiaster (p. 5) 7 miles]
Lyme Regis (p. 6) 8^

Total 39

The direct road from Exeter to
Lyme Regis, keeping farther
back from the coast, is 28
miles. This diverges right from
No. II. 2 miles out of Exeter.
Exeter to Sidmouth direct by
Clyst St. Mary (p. 39) and
Newton Popplejford (p. 20) 15
miles.

II

EXETER TO CHARD

(London Road) 30 Miles.

Honlton Clyst (p. 14) 4

Honiton (p. li) 13

[right to Axmiaster (p. 5)

9 miles]

(3 miles on, left to Taunton 14

miles)

Chard (p. 5) 13

Total 30
(Chard to London 138 miles)

III

EXETER TO TAUNTON

32 Miles.

Miles.
3
2

Pinhoe (p. 14)
Broadclyst (p. 14)
Cullompton (p. 3)
Wellington (p. 2)
Taunton (p. 2)

Total 32
(Taunton on to Bristol 44 miles)

IV
EXETER TO DULVERTON

27 Miles,

Stoke Canon (p. 4) 4

Bickleigh (p. 42) 7

Tiverton (p. 43) 4

Exe Bridge (near Dulverton Sta-
tion, p. 45) 10
(Road forward to Minebead 18

Dulverton Town (left) (pp. 45, 181) 2

Total 27
(Dulverton Town to Lymnouth
24 miles.)

EXETER TO BARNSTAPLE

40MUes.

Credlton (p. 46)
Copplestone (p. 178)
Eggesford (p. 179)

s

234

GUIDE TO DEVONSHIRE

Miles.
Portsmouth Arms (p. 180) 7

Umberleigh Bridge (p. 180) 4

[left to Torrington, right to South

Moltoa, each about 8 mites]
Bishops Tawton (p. 180) 6

Barnstaple (p. 182) 2

Total 40

Barnstaple to Bldeford 9

to Ilfracombe ll

to Lynton 17

VI
EXETER TO OKEHAMPTON

22 Miles.

Taphouse 7

Crockemwell 4

Sticklepath (p. 167) 8

Okehampton (p. 168) 3

Total 22

Okehampton to Torrington 25

to Launceston 19

to Tavistock 16
to Plymouth by

Tavistock 30

VII

Chudleigh (p. 50)
Ashburton (p. 67)

10
10

EXETER TO PLYMOUTH

South Brent (p. 89)

8

(over Dartmoor) 42 Miles.

Ivybridge (p. 98)
Plymouth (p. 103)

5
10

Pocombe Bridge (p. 68)

1

Moreton Hampstead (p. 68)

11

Total 43

Two Bridges (p. 69)

13

[right to Tavistock 9 miles]

XII

[left to Ashburton 12 miles]

EXETER TO KINGSBRIDGE

Princetown (p. 146)
Roborough (p. 131)

2
9

{by the Coast)

48 Miles.

Pljrmouth (p. 103)

6

Torquay (VIII. IX.)
Dartmouth (Ferry, p.

23

—

81)

10

Total 42

Tor Cross (p. 88)

8

VIII

Klngsbridge (p. 89)

7

EXETER TO TORQUAY

Totalis

{by Haldon) 23 Miles.

XIII

Alphington (p. 48)

1

EXETER TO KINGSBRIDGE

Chudleigh (p. 50)
Newton Abbot (p. 62)

9
6

(by Totnes)

36 Miles.

[right to Moreton Hampstead

Newton Abbot (p. 62)

16

(p. 163) 12 miles]

Totnes (p. 83)

8

[left to Teignmoutb (p. 58)

Halwell

6

6 miles]

[left to Dartmouth 8 miles]

Torquay (p. 65)

7

Klngsbridge (p. 89)

7

Total 23

IX
EXETER TO TORQUAY

(by the Coast) 23 Miles.

Alphington (p. 48)
Exmlnster (p. 53)
Starcross (p. 53)
Dawllsh (p. 54)
Teignmouth (p. 58)

[right to Newton Abbot (p.
6 miles]
Torquay (p. 65)

Miles.
1

62)

Total 23

X

EXETER TO PLYMOUTH

(by Torquay) 55 Miles.

Torquay (VIII. IX.) 23

Totnes (p. 83) 9

Avonwick (p. 89) 6

Ivybridge (p. 98) 7

Plymouth (p. 103) 10

Total 55
XI
EXETER TO PLYMOUTH

(by Ashburton) 43 Miles.

Total 36

CYCLING ITINERARY OF DEVON

235

ROADS FKOM PLYMOUTH

For Plymouth to Exeter see above Routes, VII. X. XI.

I
PLYMOUTH TO KINGSBRIDGE

20 Miles.

Brixton (p. 127)
Yealmpton (p. 127)
Modbury (p. 99)
EUngsbridge (p. 89)

Total 20
(Kingsbridge to Dartmouth by
Torcross 15 miles— Torquay 25 miles)

II
PLYMOUTH TO TORQUAY

32 Miles.

Ivybridge (p. 98)
Avonwlck (p. 89)
Totnes (p. 83)
Paignton (p. 75)
rorquay (p. 65)

11

Total 32

III

PLYMOUTH TO ASHBURTON

24 Miles.

[vybridge (p. 98) 11

Buckfastlelgli (p. 155) 10

aishburton (p. 156) 3

Total 24
(Ashburton to Two Bridges 12
miles, Tavistock 21 miles)

IV
PLYMOUTH TO OKEHAMPTON

31 Miles.

loborough (p. 131) 5

lorrabridge Sta. (p. 133) 5

Tavistock (p. 134) 5

jydford (on left of road, p, 170) 6

)keliampton (p. 168) 10

Total 31
(Okehampton to Exeter 22 miles
—to Launceston 18 miles)

PLYMOUTH TO BARNSTAPLE

66 Miles.

Saltash (p. 121)
Calllngton
Launceston
Holsworthy (p. 174)
Woodford Bridge (p. 227)
Frithelstock (p. 225)

[right to Torringtoa
Landcross (p. 225)
Bideford (p. 219)
Instow (p. 218)
Barnstaple (p. 182)

Miles.

4

10

10

14

7

6

miles]

4
2
8
6

Total 66

VI
PLYMOUTH TO LISKEARD

19 Miles.

Torpoint Ferry

PolbatWck

Liskeard

Total 19
(Liskeard to Bodmin 12 miles
—to Truro 33 miles)

VII
PLYMOUTH TO FOWEY

29 Miles.

PolbatWck (VL)

Pelynt

Fowey

11
13
5

Total 29

VIII

CIRCULAR RUN FROM

PLYMOUTH

{over Dartmoor) 53 Miles.

Ashburton (III. p. 156)
Two Bridges (p. 149)
Roborough (p. 131)
Plymouth

Total 53

236

GUIDE TO DEVONSHIRE

EOADS IN NORTH DEVON

I

TAUNTON TO BARNSTAPLE

50 Miles.

Wivelscombe (p. 180) il

Venn Cross (p. 180) 4

Bampton (p. 45) 6

Stuckeridge Bridge 2

[right to Minebead (p. 204)
21 miles]
South Molton (p. 181) 16

[a mile ieyond South Molton,
right to Blacktnoor Cross (p.
203), for Lynton 19 miles, aoid
Ilfracombe 22 miles]
Swimbridge (p. 182) 7

Barnstaple (p. 182) 4

Total 50
II
MINEHEAD TO BARNSTAPLE

86 Miles.

Porlock (p. 204) 6

County Gate (p. 205) 8

Lynmouth (p. 202) 4

Parracombe (p. 203) 5

Blackmoor Gate (p. 203) 2
[right to Ilfracombe (p. 188)
10 miles]

Loxhore (p. 204) 4

Chelf ham (p. 203) 2

Barnstaple (p. 182) 5

Total 36

III

BARNSTAPLE TO LYNTON OR

LYNMOUTH (p. 202)

17 Miles.

As II.— reversed

IV
BARNSTAPLE TO ILFRACOMBE

11 Miles.

MlUtown (p. 187)
Bittadon (p. 187) <
Ilfracombe (p. 188),

4
2
5

Total 11

BARNSTAPLE TO HARTLAND

22 Miles.

Bideford (p. 219)
Hobby Gate (p. 229)
Clovelly Cross (p. 229)
Hartland

jross (p.
(p. 231)

VI

Miles.

3

Total 22

OKEHAMPTON TO BIDEFORD

30 Miles.

Hatherlelgh (p. 175) 9

Meath (p. 227) 3

Torrington Station (p. 226) 12

Bideford (p. 219) 6

Total 30
VII
DULVERTON STATION TO
LYNMOUTH

26 Miles.

Dulverton Town (p. 181) 2

Winsford Hill (p. 181) 6

Simonsbath (p. 216) 8

Lynmouth (p. 202) 10

Total 26
VIII
BIDEFORD TO LAND'S END

106 Miles.i

Clovelly Cross (p. 229) 10

Kilkhampton 10

Camelford 21

Wadebridge 11

St. Columb Major 8

[right to New Quay 8 miles]

Mitchell 7

[left to Truro 7 miles]

Redruth 13

[left to Falmouth 10 miles]

Camborne 3

[left to the Lizard 21 miles]

St. Erth 7

[right to St. Ives 4 miles]

Penzance 6

Land's End 10

Total 106

1 For further detail, see our Guide to Cornwall.

INDEX

Abbotsham, 224
Abbotskerswell, 64
Abbot's Way, the, 148
Affeton Castle, 179
Aller Pottery Works, 63
Alphington, 48
Anchor Stone, the, 86
Angling on Dartmoor, 144
Anstey's Cove, 74
Anthony, 122
Appledore, 224
Arlington, 204
Ashburton, 156
Ashbury, 174
Ashcombe, 57
Ashton, 50, 52
Atherington, 180
Aveton Giftbrd, 95
Avon River, 89, 95, 98
Avonwick, 89
•'Awns and Dendles," 100
Axe Valley, 5, 6
Axminster, 5
Axmouth, 7

Babbicombe Bay, 74

Badgeworthy Water, 214

Baggy Point, 187, 199

Bampton, 45

Bantham, 128

Barbrook Mill, 209

Barle River, 181, 217

Barnstaple, 182

Beacon Hill (Budleigh), 22

Beaford, 227

Beardown, 150

Becky Falls, 162

Beer, 8

Beer Alston, 134

Bee Sands, 88

Believer Tor, 153

Belstone, 168

Belstone Cleave, 167

Belvidere Tower, 49

Berry Head, 80
Berry Pomeroy, 84
Berrynarbor, 195
Bickington, 64
Bickleigh, 42
Bickleigh Vale, 131
Bicton, 20
Bideford, 219
Bigbury, 95
Bigbury Bay, 128
Bishops Nympton, 181
Bishops Tawton, 180
Bishopsteignton, 60
Bishop's Walk, 74
Bittadon, 187
Blackbury Castle, 8
Black Down Hills, 2
Blackmoor, 203
Black Torrington, 227
Bolbury Down, 95
Bolt Head, 94
Bolt Tail, 95
Bone Caves, 70, 80
Bottor Rock, 161
Bovey Tracey, 160
Bovey Valley, 160
Bovisand Bay, 123
Bow, 178
Bow Station, 175
Bowringsleigh, 90
Bradford, 175
Bradley Woods, 64
Bradmere Pool, 166
Bradninch, 3
Braitor, 173
Brampford Speke, 42
Branscorabe, 8, 10
Bratton Clovelly, 173 ;
Bratton Fleming, 203
Bravnton, 18.
Braunton Burrows, 186
Brendon, 210, 214
Brent Hill, 98
Brent Tor, 138, 140, 173

238

GUIDE TO DEVONSHIRE

Bridestowe, 170
Bridford, 52
Brightley Priory, 170
Britannia, the, 81
Brixham, 79
Brixton, 127
Broadbury, 173
Broad Clyst, li
Buckfastleigh, 155
Buckish Mill, 228
Buckland Abbey, 134
Buckland Beacon, 158
Buckland Drives, 157
Buckland Monachorum, 133
Buckland on the Moor, 158
Bude, 232

Budleigh Salterton, 21
Bull Point, 198
Buller's Hill, 50
Burrator, 132
Burr Island, 95

Cad River, 131

Cadaford Bridge, 131

Cadbury Castle, 43

Cadeleigh, 43

Cairn Top, 193

Calstock, 129

Castle Dyke, 60

Castle Hill, 182

Castor, 166

Catwater, the, 118

Cawsand Bay, 120

Cawsand Beacon, 167

Chagford, 164

Chains, the, 216

Challacombe, 216

Chambercombe Valley, 194

Chapleton Station, 180

Chapman Barrowb, 216

Charlton, 88, 91

Chelfham, 203

Childe's Tomb, 148

Chittlehampton, 180

Chivelstone, 94

Christow, 52

Chudleigh, 50

Chulmleigh, 179

Churchstow, 90

Churston, 79

Clapper Bridges, 151

Classenwell Pool, 148

Clovelly, 228

Clovelly Court, 230

Clovelly Cross, 229

Clovelly Dykes, 230

Clyst St. George, 39

Clyst St. Mary, 39

Clyst Valley, 14, 39

Coaches, 193, 203, 204, 228

Coaches on Dartmoor, 136, 156, 161

Cockington, 72

Coddon Hill, 180
Colebrook, 175
Coleridge, 179
Colyford, 7
Colyton, 7

Combe in Teignhead, 60
Combe Martin, 196
Combe Raleigh, 13
Combe Royal, 90
Compass Cove, 82
Compton Castle, 72
Copplestone, 178
Cornwood, 100, 131
Coryton, 140
Cothele House, 129
Cotley Castle, 52
Cottages, Devonshire, 48
Countess Wear, 37
Countisbury, 210
County Gate, the, 205, 214
County Wall, the, 216
Cowley, 37
Cowsic Glen, 150
Cranbrook Castle, 164
Cranmere Pool, 150
Crediton, 46
Creedy Valley, 46, 47
Crocken Tor, 149
Crown Hill, 117
Croyde Bay, 187
Cullompton, 3
Culm Valley, 2-4
Culmstock, 2
Cut Hill, 150
Cycling Boutes, 102

Dart River, 149, 151, 153, 157, 159

Dart, the, 43, 85

Dartmeet, 153

Dartmoor, 141

Dartmoor Prison, 147

Dartmouth, 81

Dartington, 85

Dawlish, 54

Dean, 155

Denbury Down, 64

Dennabridge Pound, 153

Devonport, 114

Dewerstone, the, 131

Ditchen Hills, 230

Dittisham, 86

Dockyard, Devonport, 115

Dodbrooke, 90

Dolbury, 4, 43

Dolton, 227

Doone Glen, the, 215

Dousland, 132, 146

Dowlands Landslip, 9

Down St. Mary, 179

Dowrish, 47

Drake's Island, 118

INDEX

Drewsteignton, 166
Dulverton, 45, 181
Dumpton Hill, 13
Dunkeswell Abbey, 13
Dunsford, 52, 165
Dunterton, 138

East Budleigh, 21

East Lyn Glen, the, 210

East Okement, the, 169

Bddystone Lighthouse, 125

Egg Buckland, 117

Eggesford, 179

Endsleigh Cottage, 138

Erme, the, 95

Ernie Valley, 98, 99, 148

Ermington, 99

Exe Bridge, 45

Exe Bstnary, 5

Exe Head, 216

Exe Valley, 42, 45, 181, 217

Exeter, 23

Cathedral, 28

Churches, 33

City, 26

Environs, 35

Excursions, 38

History, 24

Hotels, 23

Institutions, 34

Routes to, 1

Stations, 23
Bxminster, 53
Exmoor, 215
Exmouth, 40
Exwick, 37

Farway, 12

Fern worthy Circle, 151

Filleigh, 182

Fingle Bridge, 165

Fitzford, family legends of, 136

Fitz's Wells, 148

Fleet Drive, the, 96, 98

Ford Abbey, 5

Ford House, 62

Foreland, the, 211

Fox Tor, 148

Fremington, 218

Frithelstock, 225

Fur Tor, 137

Gallantry Bower, 230
Gara Bridge Station, 89
Georgeham, 186
Gidleigh, 166
Glenthorne, 214
Goodleigh, 203
Goodrington Sands, 79
Great Haldon, 48
Great Hangman, the, 197

Great Links Tor, 173

Great Mis Tor, 139

Great Western Railway, 2, 97, 131

Grey Wethers, the, 151

Grimspound, 152

GubUns, the, 172

Haccombe, 60
Halberton, 45
Haldon, 6
Haldon Hills, 48
Hall Sands, 88
Halwill Junction, 174
Hameldown, 152
Hamoaze, the, 118, 121
Hangman Point, 196
Hare Tor, 173
Harford, 99
Harpford Wood, 17
Harter Tor, 147
Hartland, 231
Hatherleigh, 175, 227
Hawkesdown, 7
Hay Tor, 157, 161
Heanton Punchardon, 185
Heathfield, 160
Heavitree, 36
Heddon's Mouth, 213
Hele, 3, 195
Helesborough Hill, 191
Hembury Castle, 156
Hembury Fort, 13
Hemerdon Ball, 101
HemyockJ 2
Hennock, 161
Hessary Tor, 147
Hexworthy, 153
High Peak, 20
High Week, 63
High Willhayes, 170
Higher White Tor, 149
Hoarock Water, the, 210
Hobby Drive, the, 229
Holbeton, 100
Holcombe, 60
Holdstone Barrows, 197
Holne, 159
Holne Chace, 157
Holsworthy, 174, 227, 232
Honlton, 11
Honiton Clyst, 14
Hope Cove, 95, 128
Hope's Nose, 74
Horrabridge, 133
Horwood, 221
Hunter's Inn, the, 213

Ide, 50

Ilfracombe, 188
Ilsham Drive, the, 78
Ilsington, 64
Instow, 218

240

GUIDE TO DEVONSHIRE

Ippleden, 64
Ivybridge, 96, 98

Kennford, 49
Kentisbury Down, 203
Kenton, 54
Kent's Hole, 70
Kes Tor, 166
Killerton Park, 4
Kingsand, 120
Kingsbrldge, 89
Kingskerswell, 8, 71
Kingsley's Novels, 219, 230, 232
Kingsteignton, 61
Kingswear, 80
Kitley River, 127
Kit's Steps, 172

Ladram Bay, 20

Laira, 122

Lake Head Pound, 151

Landcross, 225

Landkey, 182

Landslips, near Seaton, 9

Landulph, 129

Lapford, 179

Leas, 87

Lee Abbey, 211

Lee Bay, 197

Lee Moor, 123

Lether Tor, 132

Lidwell, 60

Lifton, 140

Lincombe Drive, the, 73

Little Dart, the, 179

Littleham, 41, 221

Little Haldon, 48

Little Hangman, 196

Little Hempston, 85

Little Links Tor, 173

L:ttle Mis Tor, 139

Livermead Bay, 72

Loddiswell Station, 89

London and South- Western Railway,

4, 103, 134, 173
Lopwell, 130
" Lorna Doone," 215
Loxbeare, 45
Loxhore, 204
Luesdon, 158, 159
Lundy Island, 200
Luscombe Castle, 56
Lustleigh, 162
Lustleigh Cleave, 97
Lyd, the, 171
Lydford, 140, 171
Lyke Way, the, 150, 171
Lyme Regis, 6, 9
Lympstone, 39
Lyn Cleave, 209
Lynher River, 121
Lynjnouth, 205

Lyns, Bast and West, the, 205
Lynton, 206

Maker Church, 120
Malborough, 91
Malmsmead, 214
Mamhead, 54, 56
Manaton, 162
Marble Works, 76
Mardon Down, 163
Marisco Castle, 200
Maristowe, 130
Marland, 226
Marldon, 72
Marsh Mills, 123
Marsland Mouth, 232
Martinhoe, 213
Mary Tavy, 137, 140
Meadfoot Sands, 73
Meath, 227
Meavy, 132
Meavy, the, 131
Meldon Hill, 167
Meldon Viaduct, the, 169
Membland Drive, 96, 100, 128
Merchant's Cross, the, 132
Merripit Hill, 152
Merrivale Bridge, 138
Mew Stone, the, 127
Milber Woods, 63
Millbay, 113
Millbrook, 120
Millslade, 214
Milltown, 187
Minehead, 204
Mis Tors, 139
Modbury, 96, 99
Molland, 181
Monkleigh, 225
Morchard Bishop, 178
Morebath Station, 45, 180
Moreton Hampstead, 163
Morte Bay, 199
Morthoe, 198
Morthoe Station, 187
Morwellhara Quay, 130, 137
Morwell Rocks, 130, 137
Morwenstow, 232
Moult, 92, 94
Mount Batten, 123
Mount Edgcumbe, 119
Mouth Mill, 231
Muddiford, 187
Musbury, 6.

Newenham Abbey, 6
Newton Abbot, 62

Newton Abbot Junction, 160
Newton Ferrers, 96, 127
Newton St. Gyres, 46
Nine Stones, the, 168
Northam, 224

INDEX

241

North Bovey, 163
North Hessary Tor, 147
North Molton, 181
North Tawton, 175
Noss, the, 7, 127
Nun's Cross, 148

Oare, 215

Oddicombe Beach, 75
Okehampton, 168
Okeharapton Park, 170
Okement Hill, 169
Okement Rivers, 168, 169
Oldaport, 100
Oldbarrow, 214
Oreston, 122
Otter Valley, the, 12, 17
Otterton, 20
Ottery St. Mary, 15

Paignton, 77

Parracombe, 203

Parson and Clerk Rocks, 55, 57

Peak Hill, 19

Pear Tree Point, 88

Pebble Ridge, The, 223

Penlee Point, 120

Pennsylvania Hill, 36

Pentillie, 129

Peter Tavy, 137

Petit Tor, 75

Pilton, 182

Pinhoe, 14

Pixie Cross, 136

Plym, the, 102, 131

Pljrmouth, 103

Bathing, 108

Breakwater, 118

Churches, 111

Environs, 117

Excursions from, 125

Public Buildings, 110

Sound, 117

The Hoe, 107

Water Works, 132
Plympton, 101, 131
Plymstock, 124
Plymtree, 3
Pocombe Bridge, 52
Poltimore Park, 4
Porlock, 204, 214
Portlemouth, 93
Portsmouth Arms Station, 180
Posbury Hill, 47
Post Bridge, 151
Poundsgate, 159
Powderham, 53
Prawle Point, 93
Prestonbury, 165
Prince town, 146
Pudcombe Cove, 80
Pynes, 37

Raddon Hills, the, 42
Railways—

Great Western, 180

London and South ■ Western,
178

Lynton Line, 203
Rame Head, 120
Ramilies, Wreck of, 95
Revelstoke, 128
Rippon Tor, 157
Rivers of Dartmoor, 144
Road from London, 8
Roads for Cyclists, 102
Roborough, 131
Roborough Down, 132
Rockbeare, 14, 17
Roundham Head, 78

St. Budeaux, 124
St. Cyres Hill, 13
St. John's Lake, 120
St. Mary Church, 61, 75, 76
St. Mary Tavy, 137
St. Michael's Chapel, 71
St. Nicholas Island, 118
St. Peter Tavy, 137
Salcombe, 92
Salcombe Down, 19
Salcombe Regis, 19
Saltash, 121
Saltram, 122
Samford Spinney, 133
Sampford Courtenay, 175
Sampford Peverell, 45
Sandford, 47
Sandridge, 86
Saunton Sands, 186
Scorhill Circle, 166
Seaton, 7
Seaton Junction, 7
Shaldon, 59
Sharpham Woods, 86
Sharpitor, 148
Shaugh Bridge, 131
Shaugh Prior, 131
Shebbeare, 175
Sheepstor, 132
Shell Top, 100
Ship Canal, 37, 53
Shobrooke Park, 47
Showlsborough Castle, 216
Shute, 6
Sidbury, 19
Sidmouth, 17
Sidmouth Junction, 14
Sillery Sands, the, 207, 211
Silverton, 4
Simonsbath, 216
Sittaford Tor, 151
Siward's Cross, 148
Slade Down, 193
Slapton Sands, 87

242

GUIDE TO DEVONSHIRE

Smallmouth Caves, the, 195
South Brent, 89, 97, 154
South Hams, the, 77, 97
South Hessary Tor, 148
South Molton, 181
South Molton Road, 179
South Tawton, 167
South Zeal, 167
Spinster's Rock, the, 166
Staddon Heights, 123
Staple Tors, 139
Starcross, 53
Start Bay, 87
Start Point, 88
Staverton, 85
Steer Point Station, 128
Sterrage Valley, 195
Sticklepath, 167
Stockland Hill, 6
Stoke Canon, 4
Stoke Fleming, 87
Stoke Gabriel, 86
Stoke in Teignhead, 60
Stoke Rivers, 203
Stoke St. Nectan, 231
Stokenham, 88
Stonehouse, 113
Stover Park, 160
Street, 87

Summerhouse Hill, 209
Sutton Pool, 109
Swimbridge, 182

Tamar River, 128

Tamerton Foliott, 124

Taunton, 2

Tavistock, 134

Tavy Cleave, 137, 173

Tavy River, 130, 133, 137

Taw River, 167, 175

Tawstock Court, 180

Taw Valley, the, 178, 182, 218

Tedburn St. Mary, 47

Teign Estuary, 7

Teigngrace, 160

Teignmoutli, 58

Teign Valley, 52, 165

Terra Cotta Works, 76

Thorverton, 42

Three Barrows, 148

Throwleigh, 167

Thurleston, 95

Tipton St. John's, 17

Tiverton, 43

Tiverton Junction, 2

Tom Faggtis, 215, 216

Topshara, 39

Tor Bay, 65

Tor Bryan, 64

Tor Cross, 88

Tor Point Ferry, 117, 122

Torquay, 65

Amusements, 68

Bathing, 70

Boarding Houses, 65

Cabs and omnibuses, 65

Cemetery, 71

Churches, 70

Climate, 67

Coaches, 76, 97

Cricket Field, 71

Excursions from, 76

Golf, 74, 79

Hotels, 65

Bail from London, 5

Boad from London, 8

Stations, 8

Steamboats, 76
Torquay, road to, 61
Tor Royal, 148
Torre Abbey, the, 71
Torre Valley, 71

Torridge River, 174, 218, 225, 227
Torrington, 225
Tors of Dartmoor, 143
Totnes, 83

Traceys, legends of the, 198
Trematon, 122
Trentishoe, 197, 213
Trusham, 51
Turf, ST
Turnchapel, 123
Two Bridges, 149

Uffculme, 2
Ugborough, 98
Ugbrooke Park, 51
Umberleigh Bridge, 180
Uplyme, 10
Upottery, 6

Valley of Rocks, the, 212
Venn Cross, 180
Venn Cross Station, 45
Virtuous Lady mine, 133, 137
Vixen Tor, 139

Walkham, the, 133, 139
"Walkharnpton, 133
Warberry Hill, 75
Warleigh Tor, 124
Warmscombe Woods, 195
"Warren, the, 54
Washfield, 45
Watcombe, 75
Watermouth, 195
Watersmeet, the, 210
Wear Gifford, 225
Webburn, the, 158
Weir Head, 130
Welcombe, 232
Wellington Monument, 2
Wembury, 123

INDEX

243

West Alvington, 91
Westerland Beacon, 72, 79
West Lyn, the, 208
West Okement, the, 169
Westward Ho ! 222
Whimple, 14

Whitchurch Down, 136, 139
White Ale, 90
Whitesand Bay, 121
Widdecombe-in-the-Moors, 158
Windmill Hill, 72
Winkleigh, 179
Wistman's Wood, 149
Withycombe Raleigh, 41
Wolborough, 62
Wooda Bay, 212
Wooda Station, 203
Woodbury, 39

Woodbury Castle, 22
Woodbury Common, 21, 41
Woodford Bridge, 175, 227
Woolacombe Sands, 199
Wooston Castle, 165
Worlington East and West, 179
Wrangaton, 98

Yarcombe, 6

Yart, the, 6

Yealm, the, 96, 100, 126

Yealmpton, 96, 127

Yelverton, 132

Yeoford Junction, 47, 146, 175, 178

Yeo Rivers, the, 178, 181, 185, 203,

221, 227
Yeo Tor, 170
Yew Bridge, 227

THE END

Printed by R. & R. Clark, Limited, Edinburgh.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

Hotels arranged Alphabetically according to Locality.

DINNEFORD'S

MAGNESIA

THE PHYSICIAN'S CUBE FOE
GOUT, RHEUMATIC GOUT, AND GRAVEL.

lFEST and MOST GENTLE MEDICINE FOR
[NFANTS, CHILDREN, DELICATE FEMALES,
AND THE SICKNESS OF PREGNANCY.

THE UNIVERSAL REMEDY FOR

ACIDITY OF THE STOMACH, HEADACHE,

HEARTBURN, INDIGESTION,

SOUR ERUCTATIONS,

BILIOUS AFFECTIONS.

DINNEFORDf
MAGNESIA

2 ABERDEEN MURTLE, NEAR ABERDEEN.

MURTLE (NEAR ABERDEEN).

THE DEESIDE HYDROPATHIC

(LateHeathcot). H*

nPHIS Establishment contains every modern condition :
Health, Comfort, and Convenience, including Elect
Lighting, Elevator, Heated Corridors, Electric and other Bat
etc. It commands Extensive Views, has fine Exposure, and
eight minutes' walk from Murtle Station on the Deeside lir
The Climate of Deeside is the most Healthy and Braci
in Great Britain. Trout and Salmon Fishing.

J From 1st November to Slst May, £2 : 2s. per week.
®"^^\From Ist June to 31st October, £2 : 12 : 6 per week.

Wn^VAli ^^' STEWART,

ABERDEEN. ~~

THE PALACE HOTEL

OWNED BY THE GREAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAY COMPAQ

EVERY accommodation for comfort. Electrically light
Mechanically ventilated. Hydraulic Lifts.

EXCELLENT CUISINE. MODERATE CHARGES.

Personally patronised hy their Majesties The King and Qm
The Prince and Princess of WaleSj The late Empress Frederick
Germany, The Duke and Duchess of Connaught, Princess Christ
and Princess Victoria, Princess Henry of Battenberg, Prince i
Princess Charles of Denmark, Prince Adolphus of Teck, H.I.H. '.
Empress Eugenie, H.R.H. The King of Portugal, The Prince i
Princess Dolgorouki, Grand Duke and Gra7id Duchess Serge, Gri
Duke Paul of Russia, and ma/my distinguished visitors.
Covered way from Station Platform.
Luggage removed to and from the Hotel free of charge.

Address : MANAGER, Palace Hotel, Aberdeen
^ee Crxiden Bay Hotel, page 21.

ABERDEEN ABERDOUR ABERFELDY ABERFOYLE.

IH

ABERDEEN.

un o

THE FORSYTH HOTEL,

90 TO 104 UNION STREET.

Apply the Manager.

ABERDOUR, FIFESHIRE.

FORTH VIEW HOTEL.

'PHE Hotel is opposite the New Pier, where
^ the pleasure boats from Leith call
rt^gularly to and from the Forth Bridge
during the Season.

Charges : for Boarding 7s, 6d. per day ;
other charges equally moderate.

Yachting— Boating— Fishing— Golfing,
Distance by rail from Edinburgh, three-
quarters of an hour ; from Glasgow,
one and a quarter hours.

ABERFELDY, PERTHSHIRE.

WEEM HOTEL, TAY BRIDGE.

Under New Management.

IS well-knowii family Hotel is sitiiated one mile from Aberfeldy. The Hotel is commodious, has been
relumished, and comfortably fitted up, so that families in quest of quiet and comfort may de]>eud
iroouring every possible attention. The Hotel situation is acknowledged on the highest authorities
3 one of the best in Scotland, being thoroughly protected from all directions, and having a due south
»8ure. Families boarded by the wcelt or month. Complete jjosting establishment. Endless drives ;
nificent scenery. Episcopidian and Presbyterian Clinrches. A Bus will meet parties at Aberfeldy
way Station (one mile distant) on their giving timely notice. Charges strictly moderate. Letter*
Telegrams punctually attended to. ROBEET MENZIE8, Proprietor.

An excellent Golf CouFse within a short distance of the Hotel.

''irt-

...Vy.-rt,^. ABERFOYLE. ^^^^^^^

AILIE NiCOL JARVIE HOTEL

XCELLENT accommodation for Visitors. Coaches to and from the

Trossachs daily in connection with the Steamer on Loch Katrine.

tts on Loch Ard and Loch Chon. Billiards. Tennis. Golf. Posting.

yerfoyle Railway Station. Post and Telegraph Offices are tvxj minuteis
Walk from Hotel.

A. BLAIR, Proprietor.

ABERYSTWYTH ACHILL SOUND AMBLESIDE

ABERYSTWYTH.

QUEEFS !^ HOTEL.

13 00

npHIS Hotel is situated on the Marine Parade facing the sea, and contains seve
-^ Private Sitting Rooms, Cottee Rooms, Ladies' Drawing Room, Library, and all
Bedrooms are pleasantly situated. Lighted by Electricity.

Table d'Hote at 7.30 o'clock during the Season.
Boarding Terms from 3 J Guineas per Week, or 12s. 6d. per Day.
TARIFF ON APPLICATION.
Arrangements made for Families. "W. H. PALMER, Proprietor

ACHILL SOUND.

JOHNSTON'S HOTEL.

Fitted with every Comfort and Convenience.

Immediately beside the Station.
Visitors will find every attention given to their wants.

Fair Fishing, Sea Bathing, and Shooting.
Terms Moderate. Cars and Boats can be got.

JOHN JOHNSTON, Proprietor.

AMBLESIDE.

THE WINDERMERE WATERHEAD HOTEL

STANDING in its own grounds on the margin of the Lake, adjoining Steambc
Pier, the Terminus of the Fumess and Midland Railway Systems.
THOS. TAYLOR, Proprietor of the Salutation and Queen's Hotels (both
which will be carried on by him as heretofore), has taken over the above First-ck
Hotel, recently enlarged and refurnished, which will be conducted on a liberal a:
popular tarifiF.

Taylor's Four-in-Hand Stage Coaches run from the Hotel, also from the Salutati^
and Queen's, to Keswick, Conlston, Ullswater, and the Langdales, two or thi
times daily during the season (Sundays excepted), aflFording special facilities 1
exploring the district in every direction.

a. B.— Boats, Fishing Tackle, dbc, supplied.

ARROCHAR (aUCHANAULT, see p.

AKROCHAPt.

-AVIKMORE.

STALKER'S HOTEL

(COLQUHOUN ARMS).
LDEST established and only licensed Hotel, situated close by Loch
Long (salt water), at the liead of the Steamboat Pier. Nearest Hotel
Arrochar ai?d Tarbet Station on West Highland Railway. Central
itioii for daily excursions and the ascent of the Arrochar Alps,
imilies Boarded. Charges Moderate. Complete High-Class Posting Yard.
Several Four-Horse Coaches to and from Loch Lomond daily.

Lesser -V. S'r ALK ER.

ROSS'S

HOTEL & BOARDING

ESTABLISHMENT,

ARROCHAR, HEAD OF LOCH LONG,

Within Five Minutes' walk of Pier, and One

and a Half Miles from Tarbet, Loch Lomond.

To meet the demands of the TrHvelling Public.

this old-esta))li8hed and well-managed House has

undergone ext.en8ive alterations, and is now the

liiL'fcst and leading Hotel in Arrochar. Splendid

Centre for Day Excursions.

POSTING. C.T.C. HEADQUARTERS

COOK'S COUPONS ACCEPTED.

TKRiffI VERT MODERA TK.

'HE AVIEMORE STATION HOTEL,

AVIEMORE, STRATHSPEY.

IIRST-CLASS Kesidential Hotel in the finest scenery of
the Highlands of Scotland.

LECTRIC LIGHTING. PASSENGER ELEVATOR.

And other modern comforts and conveniences.

GOLFING,

FISHING,

' Tariff and all information apply to

MR. W. H. LEGGR, Manager.

6 AUCHANAULT (aVIEMORE, See p. 5) — BAKEWELL BALLATER

AUCHANAULT.

AUCHANAUIiT HOTEL.

Thls Hotel is
NOW OPEN TO RECEIVE VISITORS

Who may wish for a quiet retreat or for

FISHING ON LOOH AUCHANAULT,

Whereon Boats can be had.

MRS. JANE M'lVER, Proprletrir.
BAKEWELL, DERBYSHIRE.

THE RUTLAND ARMS HOTEL

A FIRST=CLASS HOUSE.
Patronised by the best English and American Families.

Three miles from Cluitsworth, and two from Haddon Hall. Save
miles of Fishing on the Wye, Free to Visitors staying in the Hotel. A
Excellent Golf Links within ten minutes' walk. Posting. Stabling. Bi:
meets all trains. Excellent aeconunodation for Cycles.

Telephone No. 12. Terms very moderate.

_______ T. TYACK, Proprietor (late of Matlock).

BALLATER (near BALIViORAL)7

LOIRSTON HOUSE.

(Greatly enlarged and improved.)
"Homelike and Comfortable."
Special Boarding Terms. Posting, Golfing, Cycling.

GEORGE T. LAMOND, Proprietor.

Telegrams:— LOIRSTON HOUSE, Ballater.

BALLATER (near BALMORAL).

INYERCAULD ARMS HOTEL.

Principal and only Licensed.

THE Hotel is pleasantly situated on the Banks of the Dee in the midst of the finei
Scenery on Deeside, and most centrically and conveniently situated for partii
visiting the Royal Residence, neighbouring Mountains, and other principal places <
interest on Deeside.

The Hotel has recently undergone extensive alterations and improvements, and f(
comfort -will compare favourably with any First Class Hotel in Scotland. Parti(
BoARDKD by the Week on Special Terms, excepting from 15th July to 15th Septembe
Posting in all its Branches. Coaches during the Season to Balmoral and Braema
Letters and Telegrams promptly attended to.
TdegrapMc Address— WILLIAM PROCTOR,

^' Invercauld Anns," Ballater. Proprietor.

BARNSTAPLE BATH BIDEFORD {see also p. 9). 7

BARNSTAPLE.

IMPERIAL HOTEL.

EAUTIFULLY situated in its own private grounds overlooking the
River Taw. This First-class Family and Residential Hotel has,
ing to increased patronage, again been considerably enlarged, and is
IV replete with every comfort. Spacious and lofty Dining, Drawing,
ading, Billiard, Smoking Rooms, Lounge and Dark Rooms, also Private
ites and Sitting Rooms. Choice Wines and Spirits. Excellent
isine. Highly Recommended. No Public Bar.

C. A. YOUINGS, Proprietor.

BARNSTAPLE.

OYAL AND FORTESCUE. ^Si&

FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL.

Patronised by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. Centrally situated, close to Stations
I G.P.O. Large and well-lighted Stock Rooms. Hotel Bus meets all Trains,
liards (two tables). Extensive alterations just completed. Under New Proprietor-
p and Improved Management.

MONTY Tf)lJ>ER, Proprietor.

BATH.

CASTLE HOTEL.

IB Oldest Established and most Central for Families, Private
and Commercial Gentlemen.
NIGHT PORTER.

JOHN RUB IE, Proprietor.

ALSO WINE AND SPIRIT MERCHANT,

24 & 25 NEW BOND STREET, BATH. "

BIDEFORD.

NEW INN FAMILY HOTEL.

[E OLDEST, LARGEST, AND PRINCIPAL HOTEL IN THE TOWN.

RIVATE SITTING ROOMS, with excellent views. The House is pleasantly situated
in the centre of the Town, overlooking the River Torridge, and other Hotels. Has

ently undergone extensive additions and improvements. Is well known for its

•erior accommodation combined with moderate charges. Proprietor of, and Book-
Office for, the Clovelly and Bude Coaches in connection with the L, & S.-W.

ilway. Hot and Cold Baths. Billiards, two tables.

H. ASCOTT, Proprietor.

BELFAST.

¥PRI

GRAND CENTRAL
HOTEL.

rTHE Finest Hotel in Ireland. 200 Bedrooms. Magnificen
Public Rooms and numerous Suites of Private Apart
ments. Electric Light througliout. Passenger Lifts to al
Floors.

Omnibuses from the Hotel attend the Arrival and Departure
of all Steamers and Trains.

f SET m .K^ 'Aa.Ta2aJ0

Tariff on Application to THE MANAGER.
Telegrams: "GRAND CENTRAL, BELFAST."

COOK'S COUPONS ACCEPTED.

BIDEFORD (see also p. 7) J

BIDEFORD.
Central for the whole of North Devon.

eluding WESTWARD HO I CLOVELLY, HARTLAND, BUDB, ILFRACOMBE,

and LYNT0N.
COACHES IN THE SEASON TO ABOVE PLACES.

Adjoining
ailway Station.

ROYAL HOTEL,

Overlooking the River
Torridge & Old Bridge.

lete with every
ivenience and
comfort.

BIDEFORD.
The Most Modern Hotel in West of England.

COMPLETELY SHELTERED FROM
E. & H.E. WIUDS.

Lofty, perfectly
ventilated, and

handsomely fur-
nished rooms.

Ightful Winter Resort— one of the mildest and healthiest in the Kingdom.
t-Class Horses and I « AwmTWTiwm i t n ATTTimvi nn I finest Stabling and
nages of every de- COKTIRESTAL COURTYARD. Lock-up Coac^>. house
ption always ready. | ' m Devonshire.

Specially reduced Winter Tariflf.

:v'S^'"rr' I SAVE OMNIBUS & PORTERAGE. | 'r.?/i^tf„"-

WINTER ATTRACTIONS.
Hunting (Wild Stag, Fox, Hare), Shooting, Fishing, Golfing.
!he Royal Hotel, originally a private mansion, built in 1688, contains the interesting
Dak rooms in which Charles Kingslcy wTote portions of IVestward Ho ! and from its
and the admirable way in which it is fitted out must be regarded as one of the best
els in the West of England. For situation the Royal is probably unequalled in the
th of Devon. — Vide Public Press.
' Bideford, chiefly remarkable for having a first-rate hotel."— Pwncfc, 5th Oct. 1889.

~r>IDEFORD.

TANTON'S HOTEL.

UNRIVALLED POSITION.
The best centre for Visitors to North Devon, Kingsley, and
Tennyson Countries.
' Most comfortable hotel in Nortli Devon."— TitZe Hmlth l!e^i>ri6 of Kvrcjic.
' A capital hotel in every way."— 6>or<i«</ and Dramo.tic.

FAMOUS FOR ITS FIRST-CLASS CUISINE.
Moderate Tariff and "en pension" Terms.

W. GIDDIE, Proprietor.

Price Sixpence.

BLACK'S GUIDE

TO

ILFKACOMBE

AND NORTH DEVON

(BARNSTAPLE, BIDEFORD, LYNTON, LYNMOUTH)

With Maps, Plans, and Illustrations.
A. & C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON.

10

BLAIB-ATHOLL.

BLAIR-ATHOLL.

ATHOLL ARMS HOTEL.

Adjoining the Raikvay Station.
The Situation is unequalled as a centre from which to vii
the finest Scenery of the Pekthshire Highlands, comprisi:
KiLLiECRANKiE ; LocHS TuMMEL and Rannoch ; Glen Til
Braemar ; the Falls op Bruar, Garry, Tummbl, and Fbnde]
DuNKELD ; Taymouth Castlb and Loch Tay ; the Grounds
Blair Castle, etc.

This is also the most convenient resting-place for breaking t
long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland.

Table d'Hote daily during the season in the well-known magi
ficent Dining Hall, with which is connected en suite a spacious a:
elegantly furnished Drawing Room.

Special terms for Board by the week, except during August.
Tariff on Applioation.
The Posting Department is thoroughly well equipped.
Experienced Guides and Ponies for Glen Tilt, Braemar, and Mounti
Excursions. Telegraphic Address— Rotel, Blairatholl.

D, MACDONALD & SONS, Proprietors.

THE BIRNAM HOTEL,

BIRNAM, PERTHSHIRE.

" Make we our march towards Bir-na,m."— Macbeth.
HIS old-established high-class Family Hotel, only one minute's walk
from the Highland Railway Station, Birnam, stands in its own
nnds, beautifully situated on the banks of the River Tay, and on the
5 of the famous Birnam Wood, amidst the finest scenery of the Perth-
re Highlands. It has been most elegantly refurnished throughout, and
1 sanitary arrangements entirely renovated. Omnibus attends the
ition Free of Charge.

THE ROYAL ROUTE TO BRAEMAR.
A coach leaves the Birnam Hotel every morning at 9 a.m. for Blair-
vrie, in connection with the Braemar Coach, from July 1st to end of
)tember. Tourists will find this drive one of the finest and most
tiiresque in Scotland. The coach passes Dunkeld, via Meikleour, the
lous Beech Hedge, 100 feet high, and Blairgowrie. Salmon and Trout
;hing (free). Dark Room for Photography. Ping Pong. Posting.
rif moderate. Telegraphic Address : " Hotel, Birnam."

Mrs. Cesari, Proprietrix.
Also of LODORE HOTEL, Derwentwater, Keswick.

BOURNEMOUTH, HANTS.

THE SOUTH-WESTERN
lOUSE AND ESTATE AGENCY,

1 The Arcade, Bournemouth.

ESTABLISHED 1874.

Iessrs. JOLLIFFE & FLINT are the Agents for the principal property owners
he District, and will be happy to forward particulars of Houses to be Let or Sold
by Post.

12 BOURNEMOUTH (BRAY,See 13, BRIDGE OF ALLAN, 14) — ^BRIGHTO]

BOURNEMOUTH.

BOURNEMOUTH HYDROPATHIC

New Sun Lounge facing Sea and Pines.

SITUATED ill by far the prettiest position on West Cliff, among
pines and magnificent scenery. Near Winter Gardens, Pier, G(
Links, and best bathing part of l^)each. Carlsbad, Vichy, Marienbad Watei
Resident Physician. Lift. Massage : Nanheim and Aix treatment.
N.B. — Turkish, Sea Water Baths, Billiards, and Gymnasium Free.
Telegrams : " Hydro, Bournemouth."
Book to Bournemouth West. Prospectus from SKCPiETAiiY.

BOURNEMOUTH.

ROYAL & IMPERIAL EXETER PARK HOTEL

"Patronised by the Royal Families of Europe."

The Residence of H.I.M. The Empress of Austria — Queen of Hungar
and H.I. and R.H. The Archduchess Marie Valerie. — April 1888.

NEWLYN'S ROYAL & IMPERIAL EXETER PARK HOTEL. Beautiful
Sheltered Position. In Private Grounds. One minute from the Pi
As a Residential Hotel unrivalled. Close to Pavilion. Table d'Hote at 7 at separi
tables. Omnibuses at East Station. UE'NRY t^EWLY^, J. V., Proprietor
Seven Years Caterer to H.M. Tlie King when Prince of Wales ; H.R.H. Duke of
Cambridge ; H.S.H. Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar ; and the Officers of Her
Majesty's Brigade of Guards, Guards' Club, London.

BRIGHTON.

WILD'S qm

Y')TEMPERANCE HOTEL, )|.
19 & 20 OLD STEINB.

Home Comforts, cleanliness and quiet ; one minute from sea. One
the best positions in Brighton. Close to Royal Pavilion and Aquarium

Also at TUNBRIDGE WELLS.

York House Temperance Hotels, Ltd., Proprietors

13

ETHELL HOTELS COMPANY, Ltd

GRAND HOTEL, MALAHIDE.

Beautifully Situated on the Coast.
15 Minutes from Dublin.

JLFINQ CENTRE. BOATING AND BATHING.

lARINE STATION HOTEL, BRAY,

Co. Wicklow.

Splendid Situation facing the Sea.
REDECORATED AND REFURNISHED

EXCELLENT CUISINE AND WINES.

30 Minutes by Rail from Dublin.

BRAY HEAD HOTEL, BRAY.

Situated under Bray Head, and commanding
magnificent views of Dublin Bay.

REMODELLED, REDECORATED, and REFURNISHED.

SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS NEW.

___^r

Tariff and Further Particulars sent on Application.

14 BaiDGE OF ALLAN (BRIGHTON, S^e p. 12).

BRIDGE OF ALLAN
HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT,

NEAR STIRLING.

numA^Aiy

1 ij

T>EAUTirULLY situated and sheltered by the Ochils
on a dry and porous soil. The House is replet(
with every comfort and convenience. Elegant Suite o;
Baths, including Turkish, Russian, Vapour, Spray, &c.
all on the most approved principles.

Terms from £2 : 12 : 6 per week.

Qualified Medical man in daily consultation, who has studied
Hydropathy at Smedley's, Matlock.

Massage Treatment.

Golf Course in Vicinity of Establishment.

Applications to be addressed to H. B. HIGGINS, Managei

BRIDGE OF ALLAN.

/flH

PHILP'8 ROYAL HOTEL

HHHE finest HOTEL in the district, about one hour by rail Ironi Edinburgh and Glasgow
-*- and 3 miles from Stirling. Most convenient lor Tourists breaking their journe
to and from the Highlands. Bus to and from Railway Station.

An extensive Carriage-Hiring Establishment.

Telephone No. 16. Telegrams :— Hotel, Bridge of Allan.

BDNDORAN — RUTTERMERE BUXTON. 1 5

BUNDORAN, CO. DONEGAL.

SWEENY'S HOTEL?''

HE Hotel is beautifully situated, overlooking the sea. The Views
from the various windows have been acknowledged as unsurpassed,
fiprising mountains, sea, cliffs, and gorge. The various apartments are
cious and comfortable. Good Cuisine. Perfect Sanitation.
Lough Melvin free fishing. 'For terms apply to Manager.

LAKES (ENGLISH).

BUTTERMERE HOTEL,

lENDIDLY SITUATED. OVERLOOKING BUTTERMERE AND CRUMMOOK LAKES.

i^entral for Mountain Climbing. Good Fishing and Boating.
COACHES DAILY FROM KESWICK, via HONISTAR PASS.

Tariff Moderate.

ital Address— ^.J. .i.^^^ Telegraphic Address—

Buttermere, Cockermouth. Buttermere Hotel.

JAMES EDMONDSON, Froprietar.

lUXTON HYDROPATHIC,

BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE.

H. LOMAS, Managing Director.

legraphic Address — National Telephone —

" Comfortable, Buxton." No. 5.

i'i'i^ii 260 ROOMS. 2'»A^«^^

ELECTRIC LIGHT. ELEVATORS.

BATHS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. ?^''«AM

Cinderella Dance each Saturday throughout
the year.

1-6 BUXTON — CALLANDER.

BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE.

PENDENNIS BOARDING HOUSE.

Finest Situation, near Baths. Excellent Table, Large Library,
Perfect Sanitation, Heated tliroughoiit during Winter.

Moderate Terms. National Telephone, 109.

MRS. MARTLAND NEWTON, j

CRESCENT HOTEL, BUXTON,

DERBYSHIRE.

THIRST-CLASS for Families and Gentlemen. Best Situation. Forms wing of th
*- Crescent. Due South aspect. Close to Railway Stations. Covered Colonnade t(
Baths, Wells, and Gardens. Dining, Drawing, Billiard, Smoking, and Reading Rooms
The Dining Saloon is acknowledged to be one of the finest rooms in the kingdom
Suites of apartments for Families. Rooms on ground floor level if required. J

Electric Light in all Booms. \

Table d'Hdte at Separate Tables. Excellent Cuisine.
Choice "Wines. Billiards.
Tblbgrams "Ckesoent Hotel, Buxton."
National Tblbphonb, No. 20. JOHN SMILTER, Proprietor.

BUXTON.

SAYOY HOTEL.

ADJOINING Public Gardens, Entirely Re - decorated. Americai
Elevator. Electric Light.

Excellent Cuisine. Choice Wines. £

JAMES BAXTER, Manager.

CALLANDER

DUNCAN'S TEMPERANCE HOTEL.

liongest Established and only First-Class
Temperance Hotel.

PARTIES BOARDED BY DAY OR WEEK. TERMS MODERATE.

g^ BOOTS ATTENDS ALL TRAINS. "^

MRS. a DUNCAN, ProprietHx.

CALLANDER CAPBL CURIG CARRIGART. l7

CALLANDER.

CALEDONIAN TEMPERANCE HOTEL

s is the only First-C/ass Temperance Hotel in Caliander.

Large Dining- Room, Public Drawing Room, also Ladies'

Drawing Room, Private Sitting Rooms.

HOT & COLD BATHS. BILLIARD ROOM.

Tickets for Trossachs Coaches to be had at this Hotel.

Yf. A. BIGGS, Owner and Manager.
graphic Address-" BIGGS, CALLANDER."

CAPEL CURIG.

ROYAL HOTEL.

First-Class Family and Posting House.

[8 old-established and favourite Hotel is beautifully situated within five miles of
Snowdon, and commands some of the most beautiful Scenery in Wales. Owing
e yearly increase in the number of Visitors the Hotel has recently been consider-
enlarged and fitted up with every regard to comfort and convenience. Excellent
t Fianlng to be had in all the Lakes and Rivers in the neighbourhood. Boats
to Visitors staying in the Hotel) kept on the Oapel Curig, Ogwen, and Idwal
8, this Hotel being the nearest to the Lakes. First-Class Stabling Accommodation
Posting. A Coach leaves the Hotel — during the Season — three times daily to and
Bettws-y-Coed Station, Telegraphic Address— " ROY Ah, CAPEL CURIG."

CARRIGART, CO. DONEGAL.

(OSAPENNA HOTEL

(THE IRISH NORWAY).

Unequalled as a Seaside Resort and Tourist Centre.

HIS WELL-APPOINTED HOTEL contains 65 Bed-
rooms, Spacious Public Eooms, Drawing, Smoking,
Billiard Kooms.

The Golf Links, 18 Holes, encircle the Hotel in a circuit
3 1 miles. Lake and River Fishing. Sea Bathing, Boxes
vided. Lawn Tennis Court. Boating. Cycle Store Room

EEKLY INCLUSIVE TERMS and Illustrated
Brochure on application to

. .Li«.. .ci .cij.:. THE MANAGER.

2

18 CHANNEL ISLANDS — CHESTER — CHIRK.

CHANNEL ISLANDS.

HOTEL BEL-AIR, SERK

THE above Hotel, wliicli is now under new management, has been thoroughly dor
u]> and improved, and all drainage put on the best modern sanitary system.
The Hotel stands 300 feet above sea-level, vk'ith private Gardens and full-size
Croquet Lawn.

Spacious Dining Room (with separate tables). Smoking and Drawing Rooms ; an
numerous Bedrooms commanding extensive sea views,

TEKMS FROM 7s. 6d.
N.B.— The Serk steamer leaves Guernsey at 10 a.m. daily (Saturdays at 11 a. in
during the summer months. Passage about one hour.
Carriages and Porter from the Hotel meet the Steamer.

CHESTER.

THE GROSVENOR HOTEL.

FIRST-CLASS. Situated in the centre of the City, close to the Cathedral " Rowi
and other objects of interest.
Large CoflFee and Reading Rooms ; Ladies' Drawing Room for the convenience
Ladies and Families ; Smoking and Billiard Rooms. Electric Light and Elevator.
Open and close Carriages, and Posting in all its Branches.

Omnibuses for the use of Visitors to the Hotel, and also the Hotel Porters att«
the Trains. A Night Porter in attendance. Tariflf to be had on application.

Apply to Manaqer.

CHESTER.

QUEEN RAILWAY HOTEL.

CONNECTED WITH THE STATION BY A COVERED WA'

STANDS in its own Grounds. Hotel Porters (in Scarlet Livery) ha
exclusive privilege of meeting all Trains on the Platform, and are
attendance day and night. Within a few minutes' walk of the Cathedr
Telegrapli Office in the Hotel open day and night. Lift to all Floo
Hotel Mews adjoining.

Telegrams— "QUEEN, CHESTER." Telephone No. 27.

W. H. BURLEIGH, Manager.

CHIRK HAND HOTEL.

Family and Commercial Hotel

IX minutes' walk from Chirk Station ; one and a half mile from Ch;
Castle, which is open to visitors on Mondays and Thursday
situated on Offa's Dyke at base of Ceiriog Glen ; surrounded by so
of the most interesting scenery in North Wales.

POSTING IN EVERY DEPARTMENT.

Fishing Tickets for the River Ceiriog free fur Visitors staying at the Hott

Cricket Ground within 200 yards.

MRS. E. GRIFFITH, Proprietress.

S

CHRISTCHURCH CLIFTON COMRIE COVERACK. 1 9

OHKISTCHUECH.

iEWLYN'S FAMILY HOTEL.

^CING the Old Priory Church, Castle, and Norman Ruins. Views from Balcony
of the Isle of Wight and Needles. One and a half miles from sea. Fishing free
i/'isitors staying in Hotel. Three miles to New Forest. Fite miles from Boume-
uth. Billiards, Boating, Tennis, and Bowls.

Telephone, 09. Telegrams, " Whaley Hotel, Christchurch."

Proprietor— A. WHALEY.

?n Pension.— For a Lengthened Stay arrangements can be made during the months
)ctober and March at moderate inclusive rates.

CLIFTON, BRISTOL.

HE QUEEN'S HOTEL

For Families and G-entlemen.

HIS old-established Family Hotel has recently undergone complete
alterations, is really comfortable, and is admirably situated. It is
ir the Victoria Rooms, New Theatre, Downs, and Suspension Bridge.
,bling and Posting. The Trams from the Station and from the City
iw- Bridge pass the door every ten minutes.

All communications please address
CLARA yUNNEY, Proprietress.

COMRIE.

ROYAL HOTEL.

IIS old-established Hotel is pleasantly situated on the main road between Crieff
and Lochearnhead. The Hotel is replete with every comfort for Families and
rists, who can be boarded on the most moderate terms by the week or month.

rriages for Hire. Golf Course ^vithin Five Minxites' ^nralk.

Hotel Bus waits all Trains.

D. HAMILTON, Proprietor.

GOVERAGK HEADLAND HOTEL

lOVERACK, ST. KEVERNE (via HELSTON, G.W.R.).
' This First-Class Hotel is delightfully situated on the Head-
d, commanding magnificent coast views, including the famous
nacle Rocks. Fine Bathing, Boating, and Fishing. Lit with
jctric Light throughout.

Apply MANAGERESS.

20 CBAIGELLACHIE — CRIEFF — CRINAN

CRAIGELLACHIE.

-:!^*

ii--

BEAUTIFULLY

SITUATED ON THE

BANKS

OF THE SPEY.

CRAIGELLACHIE HOTEL

CRAIGELLACHIE, STRA.THSPEY, N.B.

Under new management. Open all the year round. Lawn Tennis.
Excellent Cuisine. Moderate charges.

Salmon and Trout Fishing.

JAMES EDGAR, Proprietor. (Late of the Gordon Arms Hotel, Elgin. )
Also Manager of the Station Hotel, Elgin.

CRIEFF.

DRUMMOND ARMS HOTEL

AND

POSTING ESTABLISHMENT.

FIRST-GLASS FAMILY AND TOURIST HOTEL

W. C. S. SCOTT, Proprietor.

CRINAN, NB. i

CRINAN HOTEI..

11 /TOST suitable place for breaking journey to or from Oban. Finest
■^ and Healthiest Situation in the West Highlands. Nineteen acres
of ground. Splendid Walks. Good Fishing and Boating.

Particulars from HENRY GRUNEWALD, Proprietor.

CROMER CRUDEN BAY 21

CROMER.

IBBiVILLE BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT,

Cabbell Road, West Cliff.
afortable Refined Home. Liberal Table. Good Position.

Address— M.1^S KERSEY, Proprietress.

CROMER.

IMPERIAL HOTEL

AND BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT.

Under entirehj New Management.

Refurnished and Redecorated Throughout.

SEA YIEW TO MOST ROOMS.

Tkrms Modkkatk. Telephone No. 5.
Resident Fro2)rietor—\\. W. CLARKE.

CRUDEN BAY.

A Popular Seaside and Golfing Resort,

30 Miles from Aberdeen,

ON THE

[REAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAY.

splendid Beach— 2 miles long. Sea Bathing. Boating. Fishing.
Healthy and Invigorating Climate.

> Golf Course of 18 holes, laid out by the Railway Company, is pronounced by
?uislied Players to be one of the best "in the Kingdom,
lies' Course of 9 holes.

CRUDEN BAY HOTEL,

OWNED BY

IE GREAT KORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAY COMPANY,

UPIES a Charming Site, overlooking the Bay of Cruden. Every Modern
Accommodation. Electric Light. Ijift. Bowling Greens. Tennis Courts.
Bt Lawns. Electric Tramway between Station and Hotel.

ress inquiries to the Manager, Cruden Bay Hotel, Port ErroU, N.B.

W. MOFFATT, General Manager.

See Palace Hotel Advertisement, page 2.

22 DUBLIN DUGORT

DUBLIN.

Charming situation, overlooking Steplien'a Green Park.

Central Position.
Moderate Chargea

^^

ovi

^^t

Electric Light.

HOTEL, DUBLII

Hydraulic Passenger Elevate
Telephone in Hoti

DUBLITs^.
TELEGRAMS: "ABBOTSFORD HOTEL, DUBLIN."

THE ABBOTSFORD HOTEL.

72 HARCOURT STREET.
FIRST CLASS. CENTRAL. MODERAT

SELECT. PRIVATE.

MRS. HOME, Proprieto:

DUBLIN.

LARGE FIRST-CLASS RESIDENTIAL ESTABLISHMENT, best^
position, oi>posite magnificent new buildings of National
Museum, School of Art, Science, Picture Gallery
and Ornamental Gardens, Leinster House

Gardens, two Public Parks and ^^,„*-*' ^

principal places of ^^.0^^"*"''''^ ^< l^^^^l^i*-''^ fashionable

amusements. ^^^""""^ ^^^k. 9 G^ ^^■^^""'^^ central part ol

>a^ ^^^.^.x""'''^ City. Numerous Suit(

Private and Public Apartme

(Replete ^vith every home comfort

could be desired.) Charges Moderate. Ex

sively patronised by English and American Tour

TIoUl Coupons accepted.

FREDERICK MAPLE, Proprietc

^h

t^

^5

^^5^

DUGORT.

SLIEVEMORE HOTEL, DUGORT, ACHILL ISLAf

Balfour's new Railway now runs through to Achill, and the Island is jc
to the mainland by a beautiful Iron Swivel Bridge. Tliere is ample accommodi
for any number of visitors, and the Hotel has been more than trebled. The Islanc
a fine line of sea-cliffs and throe mountains— Slievemore, Minaun, and Slieve Croug
The latter is the highest marine cliff in Europe, and is not surpassed by any other i;
world : Golden Eagles still breed on these cliffs. Long Car meets Train at Achill Sc

All letters addressed to the Proprietor —

JOHN R. SHBRIDAN, "Slievemore Hotel," Dugort, Ac

Note. — Good White and Brown Trout Fishing can be had in the Lakes, whicl
in close proximity to the Hotel.

DUMFRIES DUNBLANE DUNOON EDINBURGH. 2 3

DUMFRIES.

WOODBANK MANSION HOTEL

DEPLETE with every refined luxury, built and designed for private
W use. Facing the River Nith. Lovely Aspects. Fully Licensed.

Charming Lawns and Gardens, with Conservatories, surround.
THREE MINUTES FROM STATION. PRIVATE APPROACH.

Terms extremely moderate.

For Terms apply MANAGER.

DUNBLANE.

STIRLING ARMS HOTEL.

ry ECENTLY enlarged, and having all the latest improvements. Beauti-

Li fully situated on the River Allan, fishing free. Near to Cathedral and

,ailvvay Station. Charges strictly moderate. Posting in all its branches.

TELEPHONE AND GOLF COURSE.

MRS. MARSHALL, Proprietress.
DUNOON.

McCOLL'S HOTEL,

NEAR STEAMBOAT PIER
ADJOINING OASTLE HILL), WEST BAY, DUNOON.

CHE principal and only first-class Hotel in Dunoon, standing in its own
pleasure grounds. Large additions recently completed, including
)ining and Billiard Rooms, Lawn Tennis. Celebrated for comfort and
loderate charges. With all the latest sanitary improvements in perfect
working order. HUGH McKINNON, Froprietw.

Telephone No. 5. Telegraphic Address—" Luxury, Dunoon."

EDINBURGH.

THE PALACE HOTEL,

PRINCES STREET.
PHE finest site in Edinburgh, immediately opposite The Castle,
'- overlooking the Public Gardens. First-Class House. Sanitation
'erfect. Elegance and Comfort, combined with Moderate Charges.
Lmerioan Standard Elevator by Otis Brothers, New York, to Every
'loor. Telephone, etc. Personal Management.

JOHN FERGUSON, ProprietQv.

24

EDINBURGH.

EDINBURGH.

DARLING'S REGENT HOTEL,

20 WATERLOO PLACE.
FIRST-CIiASS TEMPERANCE HOTEL.

Under personal management of Miss DARLING.
Address for Telegrams — '^ Darling's Hotel, Edinburgh."

EDINBURGH.
ESTABLISHED OVER HALF A CENTURY.

CRANSTON'S WAVERLEY TEMPERANCE HOTELS.

OLD WAVERLEY, 43 PRINCES STREET.— Telegrams, "Waverley, Edinburgh.'

Accommodation for 200 Visitors. Passenger Elevator. Electric Light.
Recommended by Bradshaw's Tourist Guide as " the cheapest and best Temperance
Hotel they had ever seen."
NEW WAVERLEY, WATERLOO PLACE.— Telegrams, " Ivanhoe, Edinburgh."
First-class Commercial House. Well-lighted Stock-Rooms on ground floor fron
2s. upwards.

CHARGES.— Breakfast or Tea, Is. 3d., Is. 6d., 2s. Public Dinner, 2s. Bedroom
and Attendance, 3s. Private Parlours from 3s. 6d.

EDINBURGH.

SAINT ANDREW HOTEL,

10 SOUTH SAINT ANDREW STREET
(Adjoining Princes Street and 2 minutes from Waverley Station).

FIRST-CIiASS TEMPERANCE.

40 ROOMS, ELECTRIC LIGHT. ELECTRIC ELEVATOR.
TERMS MODERATE.

MRS. ROBERT STEELE, Vroinietrix.

EDINBURGH.

25

EDINBURGH.

JOOKBURN HOTEL,

Adjoining the Station and overlooking the Gardens.
NO INTOXICATING LIQUORS.

JOHN MACPHERSON, Proprietor.

Passenger Elevator. Electric Light.

EDINBURGH CAFE COMPANY,

70 PEINCES STREET, EDINBURGH.

High -Class Restaura/ni for Ladies a/nd Gentlemen.
BREAKFASTS, LUNCHEONS, DINNERS, TEA, COFFEE, &c.

ELEGANT SALOON FOR LADIKS. CLOAK-ROOMS,
SMOKE-ROOMS, &c.

Table d'Hote (5 Courses), 2/6 per head.

26 EDINBURGH.

EDINBURGH.

CLARENDON
HOTEL,

104 to 106 FRINGES STB.EET.

/CENTRAL Positioii facing The Castle. Sanitation Certified. Eleotr
Light throughout. Electric Elevators. Billiard Room. Excellei
Cuisine. Moderate Charges. Under Personal Management.

HUNTER & CO.,

Proprietors also of WINDSOR HOTEL

Patronised by Purveyors to

Royalty. H.M. Lord High Commissioner.

THETRArOTLLS HOTEL,

MORNINGSIDE, EDINBURGH.

'pHIS charmingly situated Hotel is open for residence. 450 feet above sea-l(!V(
-*- Popular home for invalids. Mountain air. Most completely appointed. Eve
modern luxury. Splendid Billiard, Reading, and Smoking Rooms. Uninterrupti
Views of the City, the Braid and Pentland Hills, with the Firth of Forth and t
Highland Hills in the distance. Unrivalled as a Golfing Centre. Splendid Fubl
Course adjoining Hotel. Seventeen Golf Courses within a radius of 14 miles. Beau
ful Walks and Drives in the neighbourhood. Terms from £2 : 12 : 6. Moderate Tar
from Friday or Saturday to Monday. Dinners, Luncheons, Wines, etc. Attractive
Golfers, and economical and convenient for Visitors. The Home of Golf.

Train and Tram from Hotel to all parts of City.
For descriptive Brochure apply to Manager.

EDINBURCtII.

ROXBURGHE HOTEL,

CHAKLOTTE SQUAKE, EDINBUKGH.
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL.

J. CHRISTIE, Proprietor,

EDINBURGH EXETER. 27

CDINBURGH HYDROPATHIC

SLATEFORD, MIDLOTHIAN.

MMEDIATELY beyond the Western Boundary of the City. Fine
liracing Air olf Pentland Hills, equal to that of Braeinar.

Recognised Centre for Tennis, Croquet, and Bowling— 7 fine Courts.

Cycle Course in Grounds, half-a-mile.

Motor Car and Railway to city (20 minutes), 3d.

Apply to the MANAGER.

~~~ EXETER

POPLE'S

!IEW LONDON HOTEL.

Patronised hy 11. M, The King when Prince of Wales, and
T.E.IL The Duke and Dmliess of York.

PHIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is near the Cathedral and
^ Stations, and adjoining Northernhay Park.

Charming Old English Courtyard (with Fernery and Fountain

in centre and lighted by Electricity) as Lounge.
ABLE D'HOTE (EXCELLENT CUISINE). NIGHT PORTER.
Moderate Charges.

Hotel Omnibuses and Cabs meet every Train.

POSTING ESTABLISHMENT.

Telegrams — " Pople, Exeter."

Resident Proprietor.

28 EXETER — FALMODTH FESTINIOG.

EXETER.

DIE

^,^^S^^^^^>^..^^^

ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL,

FACING GRAND OLD CATHEDRAL.

FIRST-CLASS FAMILY. TABLE D'HOTE, 7 O'CLOCK.

Ligb-ted with Electric Light.

Quiet and Comfort of Country Mansion. Moderate Tariff.

Telephone 244. ' J. HEADON STANBUKY, Proprw^or.

Also GRAND HOTEL, PLYMOUTH.

FALMOUTH.

GREEN BANK HOTEL.

Is beautifully situated, with cliaririing viows of the Harbour, Pendennis and St.
Mawes' Castles ; and is rcjjlete with every Homely Accommodation for Families
and Gentlemen. Hot and Cold Batlis. Ladies' Drawing Room. Billiard Room.
Posting in all its branches. High-class Hotel with Moderate Tariff. Visitors taken
en pension during Winter Months. Hotel Bus meets all Trains and Steamers.

M. MITCHELL, Proprietress.

FALMOUTH.

"THE ENGLISH RIVIERA."

i„V„~L". SUMMER OB WINTER. f;— °-
Paying Guests received in a Private House, in own well-
slieltered Grounds, near Kailway Station and Beaches. Rooms
large and lofty. Bathrooms, hot and cold, on each floor. Smoking
Room. Sanitation modern and perfect. Bathing, Boating, and Sea
Fishing. Address — Mrs. Mackenzie, Penwenack, Falmouth.

j,|.:: FESTINIOG, NOETH WALES.

PENGWERN ARMS HOTEL.

Qi PACIOUS Coffee Room and Good Private Rooms. Wines and

^^ Spirits of Superior Quality. Posting in all its Branches.

A 9-hole Golf Course is now opened.

E. JONES, Proprietress.

FOLKESTONE FORT- AUGUSTUS FORT-WILLIAM.

29

FOLKESTONE.

SAYERSTOCK HOUSE.

CLAREMONT EOAD.

ELECT BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT (or APART iM1^:NTS).
Conducted on Christian and Temperance Principles. Established
II. Terms according to Season. Cycles housed. Near Turkish
I Medical Baths. Strengthening non-alcoholic wines kept in stock,
.mp. Telegrams " Comfort. " Central Station.

Proprietress— urns WOODWARD, M.R B.N.A.

FORT-AUGUSTUS.

CHISHOLM'S HOTEL.

Electric Ligld througliout.
Every Comfort for Tourists and Others, with Moderate Charges.

TABLE D'HOTE DINNER on arrival of Evening Boat.
Salmon and Trout Fishing Free on Loch Ness.

MRS. CHISHOLM, Lessee.

F0RT-W1LLLA.M. ^

THE ALEXANDRA HOTEL, S

PARADE, FORT-WILLIAM.

30 FORT-WILLIAM FOWEY.

FORT-WILLIAM.

WAVERLEY TEMPERANCE HOTEL

Under New Management.
Directly above Station and Steamboat Pier. .'. Tariff Moderate.

SPECIAL TERMS FOR WEEK-END.

M. CAMPBELL.

FORT-WILLIAM.

WEST-END HOTEL.

FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL.

WITHIN a few minutes of Station and Steamboat Pier. Overlooking Beau-
tiful Bay. Kecently Enlarged, Decorated, and Furnished on Modem
Lines. Good Bath-Room Accommodation. Under the personal superintendtiice
of the Proprietor, DONALD MINTOSH.

The Only Hotel in Fort-William from ichich the Top of Ben Nevis can he seen.

' FORT-WILLIAM.

STATION HOTEL

(WEST HIGHLAND).

THIS magnificent and sumptuously furnished Hotel, recently erected on an elevatei
and commanding site, overlooking an extensive panorama of the grandest TjOcIi am
, Mountain Scenery in the Highlands, Loch Linnhe, Loch Eil, The Great Glen of Caledonia
and Ben Nevis. Pleasure Grounds extending over Three Acres. Terraced Walks, Tenui
Courts, Golf Course, Boating, Fishing. Ponies and Guides for Ben Nevis, etc. Ove
100 Apartments. Evei'y Room commanding a Magnificent View, absolutely unsurpasse
in the Highlands. Electric lighting throughout. Sanitary arrangements on the moa
modern principles. Posting— Moderate charges. Tlie hotel porters and omnibuses
meet all trains and steamers. In connection with the Station Hotel, Brora. Sutherland!
shire. GEORGE SINCLAIR, Proprietor.

FOWEY, CORNWALL.

ST. CATHERINE'S HOUSE. ;

FIRST-CLASS PRIVATE HOTEL. !

r\N the Esplanade, facing the Beautiful Harbour of Fowey and the English Channel
^ Recently erected, contains Commodious Dining, Drawing, and Bed Rooms, wit!
most Modern Conveniences. Offers exceptional advantages to Families and Tourists
As a Tourist Centre owns many attractions, and as a Winter Resort is recommended b;
the leading Medical Practitioners. Within five minutes' walk of Church and Pes
Office. Boating, good River and Sea Fishing. Golf. Frequent Service of Trains pe
G.W.R. TERMS MODERATE. Telegrams : BROKENSHAW, FOWEY.

Telephone : No. 4 Fowey. Apply Mrs. G. BROKENSHAW, Proprietrest

giant's causeway GLASGOW. 31

GIANT'S CAUSEWAY.

Tourists visiting the Giant's Causeway look out for

KANE'S ROYAL HOTEL.

:IFF.— Tea— Bread and Butter, Gil. Do., with Preserves and Cheese, 9il. Do., with Boiled Eggs or
)old Meat, Is. Luncheon, ]s., 1b. Gd.. 28. Dinners, Is. 6d., 2s., 2s. 6tl. Bedroom for one person from
)o., for two occupying one Bed, from 3s. Posting in all its branches, and at Lowest Rates. Traps
sry kind to Fair Head, Ballycastle, and Carrick-a-Rede. As the tram is in connection with the
sway Hotel, and arrives in its grounds, the Royal is looked upon as opposition, and is not allowed a
r to represent it at Tram Depot. But a Porter attends on the public road, which is nearest way to
t's Causeway. Pay attention to his call, and don't mind Tram touters. Coast Conveyance m con-
on with Through Coach to Larne arrives at and departs from this Hotel. Tourists truthfully iii-
;d about the same.
eekly Terms on application.

GLASGOW.

ITY COMMERCIAL RESTAURANT

(WAD DELL'S).
CENTRAL AND COMMODIOUS.

Within Three Minutes' Walk of the Principal Railway Stations.

Proprietors —
ITY COIVIMERCIAL RESTAURANT CO., LIMITED,

60 UNION STREET, GLASGOW.

GLASGOW.
Established over Half a Century.

{ANSTON'S WAVERLEY TEMPERANCE HOTEL.

72 SAUCHIEHALL STREET. Telegrams: "Waverley Hotel, Glasgow."

HIS Hotel is allowed to be unsurpa.s.sed for .situation, for comfort, and for catering,
and is under the personal management of Mrs. Mason, daughter of the late
. Cranston.

C/iargfes .'—Breakfast or Tea, Is. 3d., Is. 6d., 2s. ; Bedroom and Attendance, 3s.

CAUTION.— See that you are taken to •' Cranston's Waverley."

32

GLASGOW — GLENELQ.
GLASGOW.

THE BATH HOTEL,

152 BATH STREET, GLASGOW.
The most comfortable First-class Hotel in Glasgow. Very Moderate Charges.
r. ROBERTSON, Pkoprietob,

GLENELG.
THE SPORTING HOTEL OF THE NORTH.

THE GLENELG HOTEL.

THIS HOTEL, which has been rebuilt, is situated in one of the most beautiful parti
of the West Coast of Scotland. It is easy of access by daily Steamer from Oban
and is quite near the Island of Skye. The scenery in all directions is magnificent.

The Hotel is one of the most comfortable in the North of Scotland, and is undei
the personal superintendence of the lessee. The Bedrooms are large, airy, and com
fortable, and the Coffee Room affords excellent accommodation. The cooking is good
and the Wines and Spirits have been selected with great care.

Gentlemen staying at the GLENELG HOTEL have the privilege of Salmon anc
Sea-Trout Fishing Free on the Glenelg River ; also Grouse, Black Game, and Hare
Shooting by the week or month, at a Moderate Charge.

The Sea-Fishing is about the best on the West Coast, and good Boats and Boatmer
are provided for guests.

BILLIARD ROOM. HOT, GOLD, AND SHOWER BATHS.

Among places of interest near are the Pictish Towers of Glenbeg, Cup-Markec
Stones, Glenbeg Waterfalls, Loch Duich, Loch Houm, Glenshiel, Falls of Glomach
Shiel Hotel, etc.

A SPLENDID GOLF COURSE NEAR THE HOTEL.

RABBIT SHOOTING FREE OF CHARGE.

Telegrams should be addressed — " Gi.enelg."
Letters addressed — "Glenelg Hotel, Stbome Feery."

:9V4SW 8 tfCKTsfl^n: DONALD MACDONALD MACINTOSH, Lessee.

GLENGARIFP— GOLSPIE GRAVESEND. 33

GLENGARIFF, CO. CORK.

rHE EOGLES HOTEL.

(FACING THE BAY).

^IRST=CLASS FAMILY HOTEL

MODERATE TERMS.

HE EGOLES GLENGARIFP HOTEL GO.,
LIMITED.

GOLSPIE.
SUTHERLAND ARMS HOTEL.

SAUTI FULLY situated within a mile of Dunrobin Castle, the Grounds
of which are open to the Public. Free Trout Fishing on Loch Brora

parties staying at the Hotel. Five minutes' walk from sea-shore.

bing in all its Branches. Newly furnished throughout, and under
management. An Omnibus meets Trains. Charges moderate.

Bathing and Golf.

ALEXANDER HARRISON, Proprietor,

GRAVESEND.

)URENDON ROYAL HOTEL

NDER entirely New Management. Re-furnished and re-decorated
throughout. Beautifully situated. Lawns to water's edge, and

>site the anchorage of all Ocean Steamers. Public and Private Dining

ns.

Speciality— Fish Dinners and Whitebait Teas.

Telephone, No. 050. COSH & CO., Proprietors,

34

ORINDLEP'ORD BRIDGE — aUKRNSEY.

GRINDLEFORD BRIDGE— DERBYSHIRE.

THE MAYNARD ARMS HOTEL

THIRST - CLASS Family and Tourist. Bnilt, decorated, and fitted throughout as
-*- modern Hotel, on up-to-date lines. Five minutes from Station — Dore ai
Chinley Line. Situated in midst of most picturesque and romantic surroundinj
with 28 acres of rustic pleasure ground, divided by Burbage Brook. Furnishi
luxuriously in old English style. Most comfortable, refined residence for Familh
Sportsmen, and Tourists. Fishing, Cycling, Driving. Golf Links, 2 miles— 5 minut
by Train. First-class Cuisine. Chef. Separate Tables. Table d'Hote meals, or d
carte. Moderate Tariff. Good Stabling.

Lessee and Manager.— B.. ELLIOTT»^

GUERNSEY. I

GARDNER'S ROYAL HOTEI

ESPLANADE.
-- t\ Patronised by H.I. H. Princess Stephanie.

THIS Hotel, which occupies the finest position in Guernsey, has had extensi
additions and improvements ; it will now be found most complete, with ev(
modem requisite conducive to the comfort of Visitors. The public rooms consist
Dining Room (the largest and best appointed in the Channel Islands), DraAvii
Reading and Writing, and Smoking Rooms ; there is also a magnificent Billij
Room, and large and pleasant Gardens in the rear. Table d'Hdte, separate Tail

Telegraphic Address — "Royal, Guernsey."

"YE OLD£ GUERNSEY MILK-CAN."

Maker--

A. P. ROGER,

Qoldstnith, Silversmith, etc.,

, 10, AND 42 Arcade, Guernsey, C.

Made in all Sizes in Gold, Silver, Electro-plati
Copper, and Brass.

Silver-plated ^-pint Cream Jug . 5s.
Do. ^-pint do. . 6s.

Silver (Hall-marked) J-pint Cream

Jug 19s.

Silver (Hall-marked) Muffineers, 3s. 9d,

68. 6d., and 8s. 6d. each.

Sent per Registered Post, 3c. Extra.

Illustrated Catalogue Post Free.

Telegrams —

ROGER, SILVERSMITH, GUERNSE

HARROGATE — TIELEKSBURGH HEREFORD — HEXHAM. 35

HARROGATE.
THE GRANBY HOTEL, LIMITED,"

HIGH HARROGATE,

FACING THE STRAY.

IIS First-Class Hotel stands in its own extensive grounds, and is beautifully
situated in the best part of Harrogate. Great alterations have lately been made
he House, and Visitors will find in it every convenience. Carriages to the WeUs and
hs every morning free of charge. Ten minutes' walk from the Station. For
ms, &c., apply W. H. MILNER, Managing Director.

Lawn=Tennis Ground adjoins the Hotel.
Good Stabling and Standing for Cycles. Carriages on Hire.

Electric Light. Elevator to all Floors.

HELENSBURGH.

The BRIGHTON of Scotland.

[HE IMPERIAL HOTEL

FINEST POSITION ON ESPLANADE, Two Minutes from Station.
Beautiful View of Firth of Clyde.

i;W MODERN SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS, LAVATORIES, and SMOKING
ROOM, BILLIARDS. GOOD COOKING. Every Comfort, combined with

DERATE CHARGES. , BOARDING TERMS. TELEPHONE.

Now Personally Supervi.sed by the New Proprietor, J, R. EIGQiER.

HEREFORD.

GREEN DRAGON HOTEL

(Close to the Cathedral and River).

IRST-CLASS Family Hotel. Centre of City. Electric Light through-
out. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Tariff. Best centre for tour of
jG. Within easy distances of Raglan, Tintern, Goodrich and Ludlow
jtles, Malvern Hills, Abergavenny, Llanthony Abbey, etc. Boating on
! Wye arranged. Ladies' Drawing Room. Smoking, Writing, and
Hard Rooms. For Tariff" apply Manageress.

HEXHAM, NORTHUMBERLAND.

TYNDALE HYDROPATHIC MANSION,

A Favourite Health Resort, beautifully situated,
overlooking the VaUey of the Tyne.

R!TY OF AIR UNSURPASSED. REPLETE WITH EVERY COMFORT.
Teems, from £2:5:6 pee "Week.

FRANK G. GRANT, Proprietor.

36

P ILFRACOMBE.

AN IDEAL POSITION.

ILFRAGOMBE HOTEL.

THE PRINCIPAL and ONLY HOTEL on the SEA SHORE.

THE FINEST PRIVATE MARINE ESPLANADE IN THE KINGDOM.

Unrivalled Sea Frontage and Open Surroundings.

Grounds 5 Acres. 250 Apartments. Tennis. Croquet. Bowls. Golf.

Elegant Salle k Manger. Drawing, Reading, Smoking, and

Billiard Rooms. Sumptuous Lounge Hall.

Passenger Lift. Moderate Tariff. Terms "en pension."

There is attached to the Hotel one of the Largest
Sea Water Swimming Baths in the United Kingdom (the
temperature of which is regulated). Also well-appointed Private
Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths, Douche, Shower, &c.

H. RUSSELL GROVER, Manager,
To whom all communications sTwuld be addressed.
The Ilfbacombe Hotel Co., Ltd.

ILFRACOMBE ILKLEY — INVERNESS 37

ILFRACOMBE.

ROYAL CLAREMCE HOTEL

(The famous old Coaching House).
Fifty well-appointed Rooms. The Hotel bears a high character for its
Comfort, Cleanliness, and Cuisinerie.

The Coaches for Lynton, Lynmouth, Barnstaple, etc., start from the
Hotel.

En pension Terms from 2 guineas according to Season.

G. BRIGHTLING TESTER, Proprietor.

i

ILKLEY, YORKSHIRE.

MIDDLETON HOTEL,

FACING THE MOORS.

M

• g

npHLS First-Class Family Hotel stands in its own extensive grounds, on the banks of
-^ tlie picturesque River Wharfe, six miles from the famous Bolton Woods. Spacious
Dining, Drawing, and Coffee Rooms. Billiard and Smoke Rooms. Suites of Apart-
ments, etc. This is the only Hotel in Ilkley near the Ilkley Golf Club— 18-hole course,

TABLE D'HOTE, SEPARATE TABLES.

TENNIS COURTS. GOOD STABLING.

TARIFF ON APPLICA TION TO THE PROPRIETOR cfc MANAGER.

C. DILLY.

INVERNESS.

WAVERLEY HOTEL,

^««Jautos walk froai Ui« Yi^^^^J ^^^^

UNSURPASSED

IrA SITUATION AND COMFORT,

? '7^i*-, COMBINED WITH

MODERATE CHARGES.

Porter of the Hotel attends all Trains, and an Omnibus runs in
connection with the Caledonian Canal Steamers.

Telegraphic Address—'' WAVBRLBY."

D. DAVIDSON, Frop'ietar.

38

INVERNESS — ISLE OF MAN JERSEY.

INVERNESS.

Telegrams—" ELLIOT, INVERNESS." Tdephone, No. 48.

ESTABLISHED 1858.

ELLIOT & CO.,

FAMILY BUTCHERS,

DRUMMOND STREET.

Special Attention paid to Shooting Lodges and Yachting Parties.
DOUGLAS, ISLE OF MAN.

WINDSOR BOARDING HOUSE.

CASTLE MONA TERRACE, CENTRAL PROMENADE.

Beautifully situated on the margin of the Bay, commanding uninterrupted views of
both Headlands. Close to Golf Links, Tennis, and Bathing Ground, and all places of
amusement. Telegraphic Address— liAce, Windsor Hoiise, Douglas, Man.

Terms from 5/6 to 6/6 per day, inclusive.

REDUCED TERMS FOR WINTER MONTHS. TRAMS FROM PIER.

LATE DINNERS. THE MISSES LACE, Proprietresses.

jersey! '

THE SOMERVILLE,

ST. AUBINS.

; FOR BRAIN AND NERVE REST. ONE OF THE
I i MOST BEAUTIFUL SPOTS IN THE WORLD.

PERFECTLY sheltered, standincj iii its uuii t■^tellM\( ^mouikK. ( haiiiniij; teiiacos,
J^ commanding a view of 40 miles of land and sea. rerfect quiet. Good bathing.
Excellent winter quarters, the temperature comparing favourably with the South of
Europe, without its extremes. Excursion cars leave the door. Write for Illustrated
Descriptive Tariff. Terms en pension, 8s. 6d. to 10s. 6d.

J. W. CHAPMAN, Proprietor.

JERSEY.

JERSEY, ST. HELIER.

w

THE GRAND HOTEL.

rHE only first-class modern Hotel facing the Sea. Replete with all
modern comforts, and the leading Hotel in the Channel Islands,
loderate terms. Telegraphic Address : "Grand, Jersey."

D. DB LBIDI, Manager.

JERSEY.

ROYAL YACHT CLUB HOTEL.

M THE OLDEST ESTABLISHED •

FIRST-CLASS HOTEL IN THE ISLANDS.

Grand Position facing both Sea and Harbours.
REBUILT AND REFURNISHED.

OVER 120 ROOMS. *^^®^ ®'*'^ j

'BUSES MEET ALL BOATS.

Telegraphic Address— "YACHT, JERSEY." — ^

Far further particulars addi'ess THE MANAGER, who will be pleased
• send a descriptive Tariff.

40 JERSEY.

" // you want health for the body, rest for the mind, pure air and
splendid scenery, all of God's gifts which go to make a terrestrial
Paradise, I emphatically advise you to go to Jersey."

—Sir Benjamin Brodie.

"SUNNY JERSEY."

The Riviera of Great Britain.
A Charming All-the-year-round Resort.

' ' Beauty-Spot.— Holiday-Ground.— Health-Restorer. ' '

THE STEAMSHIP COMMUNICATION between the Mother -Country
and this "Beauteous Isle of Sunshine, Fruit, and Flowers"
is simply admirable, via either Southampton (L. & S. W.R.) or Weymouth
(G.W.R.); and Jersey is, moreover, a most convenient centre for Con-
tinental trips, via St. Malo, Granville, or Cartaret.

Lovely walks and drives of endless charm 'raid picturesque and ever-
changing scenery (including daily cJiar-d-ianc excursions) ; cai)ital roads for
cycling, safe sea-bathing in two magnificent marine-lakes ; golf, tennis,
fishing, etc. ; promenade concerts by military bands in public parks, and
high-class musical and dramatic evening entertainments.

Excellent hotel and boarding-house accommodation in town or country
at most moderate charges. Superior scholastic institutions, and well-
stocked trading establishments supplying goods at exceptionally favourable
rates. Telegraphic communication with both England and the Continent,
frequent mail deliveries, and two daily newspapers.

"For Health, Pleasure, and Brightest Weather."

The annual reports of the Meteorological Council conclusively show Jersey to
he the Sunniest Spot in the United Kingdom, hence the
best haven for health- seekers and holiday-makers alike. This favoured isle in
1900 again headed the list with a total of 2,003 "2 hours of bright
sunshine for the year.

" Kissed by refreshing sea-breezes in summer, and the balmy breath of
the Gulf Stream in winter," Jersey's equability of temperature is its unique
feature ; while the sub-tropical luxuriance of the vegetation, the lovely
flowers and choice fruit, speak for themselves !

Tv lev ding visitors shmdd send 4d. in stamps for postage of a pre-
srntation copy of the Popular Is. Album-Guide '■'Beautiful Jersey"
(by Percy Edward Amy, F.R.G.S.) to

The Secretary,

JERSEY COMMERCIAL ASSOCIATION,

2 QUEEN STREET, ST. HELIER, JERSEY, C.I.

"/ have been round the World; I know America, Africa, Aus-
tralia, New Zealand ; I know Ewrope fairly well. I do not remember
having ever spent a fortnight more agreeably than in the pretty, pic-
turesque, and interesting little Island of Jersey."— Max O'Rbll,

JERSEY — KILKEE KILLARNET. 41

JERSEY. ^U\J

ST. BRELADE'S BAY HOTEL

/CHARMINGLY situated on sea-shore. Recently enlarged.
^ Tariff on application. The only Hotel in Channel
Islands affording facilities for Sea Bathing.

A. B. HARDEN, Proprietor.

de^F^yIPS^ JERSEY E A U - D E-COLOG N E7

Mrs. Lancjtry says: "I think your Eau-de-Cologne

■ ■r««% \ perfect. It is so fragrant and refreshing, and I like it

lul D V \ better than any I have hitherto used."

IVIIIVi \ Handsome case of two 4-oz. Bottles (decorated with

I AEIOTDVO \ photo-views of Jersey) for 3/6, post and duty free to any

LllllUI I II 1 0 \ P^'^t "f the United Kingdom. Large Cases at 5/-, 9/6,

_ a ■>«»■■ B^ a^H and 21/-, all dutv and post free.

FAVOURITE I F. G. DE FAYE,

PFRFIIMF / Chemist and Cologne Distiller,

I LIU Ulflt../ p^viD PLACE, BATH STREET,
JERSEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS.

KILKEE, CO. CLARE.

MOORE'S HOTEL.

OVERLOOKING PUBLIC TENNIS COURTS AND MOORE'S BAY.

r\N direct line between Killarney and Connemara via Tarbert, Kilrush,
and Moyasta Junction.

Cliff Scenery ought not to be missed.

UNSURPASSED HEALTH RESORT.

Warm Winter Climate.

KILLARNEY LAKES.

By Her late Most Gracious Majesty's Special Perrtiission.
THE

ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL

(Under Royal Patronage.)

MAGNIFICENTLY SITUATED ON LOWER LAKE, FACING INNISFALLEN.

Highly recommended for its Superior Comfort.

JOHN O'LEARY, Proprietor.

42

KILLARNEY - KIRKWALL^ — LANGHOLM

LAKE HOTEL, KILLARNEY LAKES.

Telegrams Lakf Hnxri. Klll^R^■E

.MOST .AlODERX AND COMFORTABLE L\ THE DISTRICT,

Conveniently Situated. Superior Cuisine and Wines.

PERFECT SANITATION. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT.

Spacious Accommodation. Moderate Tariff.

Patronised by His Most Gracious Majesty The King.

The only Hotel in the District situated directly on the Lake Shore.

.4rfc?m<?s— MANAGER, LAKE HOTEL, KILLARNEY.

"~ K"rRK W A L L H 0 T E L. ,

rimiS FIRST-CLASS HOUSE has been specially constructed with a view io the
-L comfort and convenience of the Travelling Public. The Accommodation consists
of Coffee and Commercial Rooms, Private Parlours and Ladies' Drawino Room,
Billiard, Smoking, and Stock Rooms. Light and Airy Bedrooms. Elegantly Fur-
nished throughout (by some of the best Houses in the Trade). The Sanitary arrange-
ments are the Latest and most approved. Hot, Cold, and Salt Water Baths.
Lavatories and Closets on each floor. There are also rooms en suite for Families and
Private Parties.

The Hotel occupies a Central Position, overlooking the Harbour, and commands an
Extensive View of the Bay and surrounding Islands (including Stronsay, Sanday, Eday,
Westray, Rousay, Gairsay, Egilshay, Weir, Shapinsay, some of the South Isles, and the
Mainland of Scotland). First-rate Cuisine. Charges Strictly Moderate. Posting in all
its Branches, with careful and steady Drivers. WIIiLIAM DUNNETT. Proprietor.

LANGHOLM, DUMFRIESSHIRK

ESKDALE TEMPERANCE HOTEL.

20 Miles by Road and Rail from Carlisle (Waverley Route).
Angling and Summer Quarters on the Esk.

FAMED for Salmon, Sea Trout, and Herling. Eveiy Accommodation
for Families, Anglers, Tourists, and Cyclists. C.T.C. Quarters.

20 DiflFerent Drives in neighbourhood amongst lovely Scenery.

es" Proprietor of the Celebrated Eskdale and Liddesdale Coaching Tours.

See |). 85. Send for Tariff a^d Coach Guide to WM. DOUGLAS, B.G., Proprietor.

LARNE LAUNCESTON LEAMINGTON IJMERICK. 43

LARNE HARBOUR (COUNTY ANTRIM).

HDERFLEET [STATION] HOTEL.

CjlIRST-CLASS HOTEL, facing Sea. Two minutes' walk.
Mail Steamers to Stranraer and Rail to Belfast, Port-
•ush, Ballycastle, &c.

Address-T HE MANAGER.

LAUNCESTON, CORNWALL.

WHITE HART

FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL.

Within .a few Seconds of the Fine Old Castle and Beautiful

Church.

POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.

BRENDON PARSONS, Proprietor.

LEAMINGTON.

MANOR HOUSE HOTEL.

yiRST-CLASS for Families and Gentlemen. Surrounded by its most magnificently
^ laid-out j^rounds. sloping to the River Learn, facing the Puinp-Room Gardens, and in
lose proximity to both Railway Stations — thus making it one of the prettiest and most
onvenient places of resort in the Kingdom. The Hotel has been considerably enlarged ;
iirnished with all modern comforts. Handsome Coffee and Ladies' Drawing Room, Bil-
iard and Smoking Rooms. French and English Cuisine. Table d'Hote at Seven o'clock.
POSTING, &c. SPLENDID NEW BOXES FOR HUNTERS.

R. LAM PLOUGH & SONS, Proprietors.
(Also of Manor Villas Private Hotel, Leamington, and of the Pavilion Hotel, Scarbo7-o'.)
Telephone, No. 542.

lxmerickT

ROYAL GEORGE HOTEL.

PIRST- Class Family and Commercial, most Central in City ,

has undergone extensive alterations, newly refurnished — also

ifteen newly furnished unsurpassed Bedrooms added ; Hot and Cold

Baths. Splendid Billiard Eoom. Sanitary arrangements perfect.

Cook's and Gaze's Coupons accepted. 'Bus meets all Trains.

P. HARTIGAN, Proj^rirtor.

44

LIMERICK LIVERPOOL.

LIMERICK.

THE GLENTWORTH HOTEL.

THIS elegant and centrally situated Hotel has been prepared with great
care and at considerable expense for the accommodation of ladies and
gentlemen visiting Limerick, and possesses the freshness, neatness, and
general comfort which distinguish the best English and Continental
establishments.

The Glentworth is the leading Hotel in Limerick, and claims the
support of the general public for the

Superiority of its Arrangements in every Department.

Including splendid Coffee Room, Commercial Room (Writing Room
attached), Sitting Rooms, Bedrooms, Bathrooms (hot and cold water),
kc, &c. 21 new Bedrooms added to Hotel.

im^ Commercial gentlemen will find our STOCK ROOMS all that can
be desired.

It is the nearest Hotel in the city to the Railway Station, Banks,
Steamboat Offices, Telegraph and Post Office, and to all places of Amuse-
ment. P. KENNA, Proprietor.
Omnibuses arid Staff meet all Trains and Steamers,
Gaze's and Cook's Coupons accepted.
_ LIVERPOOL. ~

SHAFTESBURY

HOTEL. p

MOUNT PLEASANT, LIVERPOOL.

A few Minutes' walk from Central
and Lime Street Stations and Landing
Stage. If desired, a Porter in uniform
will meet any train.

Electric Light throughout Hotel.

No Alcoholig Drinks Supplied.

Electric Cars from Landing Stage and
Castle Street, near L. and Y. Station
pass every few Minutes.

LIVERPOOL.
LANCASHIKE AND YOEKSHIEE EAILWAY

EXCHANGE STATION HOTEL

( Under the Management of the Company).

Telegra^jhic Address: Station Hotel, Liverpool. Telephone: No. 1173. In close proximity to the
Town Hall, Landing Stage, Exchange, and Principal Centres of Business. Lighted throughout by
El'-ctricity.

The Hotel offers every accommodation for Visitors and Families at moderate charges. Rooms may
be telegraphed for, free of charge, from any principal station on the Railway, on application to the
Stationmaster or Telegraph Clerk. Further particulars can be had onapplication toTHE MANAGER.

Refreshment Rooms at the following Stations are under the management of the Company:—

Accrington, Ashton, Bolton, Blackburn, Blackpool T. Rd. , Bradford, Fleetwood, Halifax, Liver-
pool, Manchester, Rochdale, Salford, Southport, Sowerby Bridge, Wakefield, and Wigan.

G. OB, HAMILTON, Manager,

LIVERPOOL — LIZARD — LLANDUDNO. 45

LIVERPOOL.

LAURENCE'S

COMMERCIAL & FAMILY TEMPERANCE HOTEL,

CLAYTON SQUARE

( Within Three Minutes' walk of Lime Street and Central Stations^ and
the Chief Objects of Interest in the Tovm).

CONTAINS upwards of One Hundred Rooms, including Coffee Room, Private
Sitting Rooms, Billiard and Smoke Rooms, Large and Well -Lighted Stock

Rooms. HEADQUARTERS CYCLISTS' TOURING CLUB.

Telephone No. 1557.

LIZARD POINT, CORNWALL.

THE LIZARD HOTEL

pHE oldest established and most central Family Hotel in the district : is the nearest
-•- hotel to the celebrated Kyuance Cove, being within 15 minutes' walk. It is
situated on the Lizard promontory, and is the most Southern Hotel in England,
"ecently enlarged and entirely renovated. Postal and Telegraph Office adjoining.
Dairy Farm in connection with the Hotel. Table d'Hote, 7 p.m. daily. Delicious
itmosphere. Close to new Golf Links. Boating, Fishing, and Bathing. Terms
noderate — Pension.

Telegrams: Hill's Lizard Hotel, Lizard. JAMBS A. HILL, Proprietor.

LIZARD, CORNWALL.

HOUSEL BAY HOTEL.

SPLENDID BRACING CLIMATE.

T^HIS First-Class Hotel commands Magnificent Views of the famous
■^ Lizard Head, and is the only Hotel situated close to the Sea and
t)eautiful Housel Bay Beach. Golf, Bathing, Boating, Fishing, Billiards.
Special Coach to and from Helston Station (G.W.R.)
Tariff on afrplication to Manager.

LLANDUDNO, NORTH WALES.

IMPERIAL HOTEL.

Most Centrally situated on the Promenade, facing Sea.

130 WELL-APPOINTED SITTING AND BED ROOMS.

Lounges. Passenger Lift. Electric Light in every room.

GOLF LINKS.

Night Porter. Private Omnibus. Stabling.
For Moderate Tariff and other particulars apply

JOHN CHANTREY, Proprietor.

46

800 feet above the
level of the sea.

LLANDRINDOD — LLANGOLLEN.

LLANDRINDOD WELLS.

90 minutes from
Shrewsbury.

PUMP HOUSE HOTEL.

(With its renowned Saline and Sulphur Springs, used medicinally for upwards of 200 years.
ESTABLISHED vm. REBUILT AND REFURNISHED 1888 AND 1900.

WEST VIEW OF HOTEL,

THIS Old-Esta Wished Hotel, standing in its own Ornamental Grounds of upwards of
100 acres, adjoins the Old Pump Room and Baths, has an unrivalled position in
this Fashionable health resort, and with the new wing just added contains 150 Rooms,
which comprise Handsome Table d'Hote Dining Room, and Elegantly Furnished
Drawing Room, Private Sitting, Bed, and Dressing Rooms en suite. Coffee, Smoking,
and Billiard Rooms on Ground Floor. Large Reading and Writing Room adai)ted for
Dancing. Bath Rooms, Lavatory, and all modern Conveniences. A Private Band plays
in the Hotel Grounds at intervals during the day. Recent extensions include a magnifi-
cent Pump Room, an elegantly appointed Lounge, and other luxurious Public Rooms.
The Hotel, the largest in the principality and one of the most comfortable in Europe, is
Electrically Lighted throughout, and has a Passenger Elevator, Hotel Mineral Springs,
Hotel Sulphur Baths, Hotel Heat Baths, etc. Within 100 yards of the Hotel is an
Ornamental Lake, with a large supply of Boats, and adjacent are Golf Links, Lawn
Tennis Courts, Bowling Green, etc. Fishing in Preserved Waters. Horses, Carriages, etc.

LLANGOLLEN.

ROYAL ^»^ HOTEL.

THE above first-class Hotel is now under the Proprietorship of James
S. SitAW (several years with Mr. Mehl, at Queen's Hotel, Manchester,
and at County Hotel, Carlisle). The extensive alteration and enlargement
which have been recently carried through make it one of the most
convenient and best appointed Hotels in North Wales, while its Cuisine,
comfort, and situation are unsurpassed.

Telephone No. 2. HOTEL OMNIBUS MEETS ALL TRAINS.

LOCH AWE — LOCH EARN HEAD — LOCH LOMOND. 47

THE LOCH AWE AND DALMALLY HOTELS,

ARGYLLSHIEE.

The extensive additions to the Loch Awe Hotel are now completed.
Large alterations have been done at Dalmally Hotel.

THE scenery round these well-known Hotels is certainly the finest in the Highlands.
Situations unsurpassed. The great centres for tourists. Numerous delightful
Excursions by coach, rail, and steamer.

Capital Salmon and Trout Fishing, Boating, Tennis^ Billiards, etc.

Splendid Steam Launch. " Mona," for towing Boats to best Pishing- Ground,

and for Hire with Excursion Parties.

The centre of numerous Daily Excursions to Places of Great Beauty and Historical Interest.

N.B.— Parties holding through tickets are permitted to break the journey at either

Loch Awe or Dalmally. DUNCAN ERASER, Proprietor.

LOCH AWE.

PORTSONACHAN HOTEL.

rPHIS Hotel has superior advantages, being away from the noise and bustle in-
-*- cidental to railroad Hotels, and easy of access, only half an hour's journey from
Lochawe Station (Callander and Oban Railway), where the Hotel steamer Caledonia
makes connection with the principal trains during the season. Letters delivered
twice, and despatched three times daily. Postal, Telegraph, and Money Order Office
in Hotel buildings. Presbyterian and Episcopalian Churches within easy walking
distance of Hotel. Tennis court, beautiful drives, first-class boats, experienced
boatmen. Posting and Coaching. Charges moderate. Thomas Cameron, Proprietor,
Originator of the Oban, Lochawe, and Glenaut circular tour. Telegraphic address,

CAMERON. PORTSONACHAN.

LOCH EARN HEAD (PERTHSHIRE)

LOCH EARN HEAD HOTEL.

(Under Royal Patronage. Twice visited by Qiieen T-'ictoria.)

THIS Hotel, which has been long established, has excellent accommodation for
Families and Tourists, with every comfort and quiet, lies high and dry, and
charmingly sheltered at the foot of the Wild Glen Ogle (the Kyber Pass). It commands
fine views of the surrounding Hills and Loch, the old Castle of Glenample, the scenery
of the Legend of Montrose, in the neighbourhood of Ben Voirlich, Rob Roy's Grave,
Loch Voil, Loch Doine, and Loch Lubnaig, with many fine drives and walks. Posting,
Billiards, Golf. Boats for Fishing and Rowing free. Hotel 'Bus meets principal trains
at Loch Earn Head, and Caledonian Coaches at St. Fillans, during Summer. An
Episcopal Church. Ladies' Golf Course adjoins Hotel.
EDWIN MAISEY, Proprietor.

ARDLUI HOTEL.

HEAD OF LOCH LOMOND.

Three minutes' walk from Steamboat Pier and Ardlui Station, West HigJdand Railway.

THIS Hotel is beautifully situated amidst unrivalled scenery, and commands a
magnificent view of the Locli. Tlie Hotel has been remodelled and refurnished,
and additions have been made ; the sanitary arrangements are new, and have been
carried out on the most improved principles. Visitors staying at this house will find
every comfort and attendance, with boats and fishing free. Delightful daily tours
can be arranged to Loch Katrine, Loch Awe, Loch Tay, Loch Long, etc. Passengers
travelling South by West Highland Railway change here for Loch Lomond and Loch
Katrine. Parties boarded by week. Special week-end terms, except in August.
Telegrams: "Dodds, Ardlui." D. M. BOBDS, Proprietor.

N.B.— Grand Circular Tour by Rail, Coach and Steamer daily from Edinburgh
and Glasgow. Further particulars can be obtained at Crianlarich and Ardlui Hotels,
also from the North British and Caledonian Railway Companies' Tourist Guides.

48 LOCH FVNK — LOCH LOMOND.

LOCHGAIR HOTEL.

THIS Hotel is beautifully situated at the Head of Lochgair (an arm of
Loch Fyne), and on the public road to Inveraray. It has many
advantages, being within easy access of Ardrishaig, where the Hotel coach
makes connection with the Steamers "Columba" and "loiia," also with
the " Lord of the Isles " at Crarae, seven miles distance.

TENNIS COURT in front of Hotel, also GOLF COURSE.

EXCELLENT TROUT FISHING

in preserved Loch, which has been stocked with Loch Leven Trout, and
excellent baskets can be had. Good baskets of Whitings, Cod, and
Lythe, etc., can be had at all times in Lochgair or Loch Fyne. There
has been constructed a good canal and slip for the convenience of yachts'
people and visitors boating — accessible at all states of the tide.

Post and Telegraph OflSce One Minute from Hotel.

HIRING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES AT MODERATE CHARGES.

ARCHD. BROWN, Prop-ietor.

Telegraphic Address—" Brov4^n, Lochgair"

LOCH LOMOND.

INVERSNAID HOTEL

THIS Hotel is centrally situated in the Scottish Lake District amidst
unrivalled scenery. In the neighbourhood are many places of
interest, such as Rob Roy's Cave, the islands on Loch Lomond, on some
of which are the remains of feudal strongholds, and within a few yards of
the Hotel, Inversnaid Falls, rendered famous by Wordsworth in his poem
"To a Highland Girl."

Coaches to and from Loch Katrine in connection with all the sailings
of the steamer there to and from the Trossachs.

LAWN TENNIS. BOATS. BILLIARDS, dbc.

TROUT PISHING ON THE LOCH FREE.

Parties Boarded by Week or Month, except in August.
Post and Telegraph Office in the Hotel.

ROBERT BLAIR, PropHetor.

LOCH LOMOND LOCH MAREE.

LOCH LOMOND.

49

THE TARBET HOTEL LOCH LOMOND.

HIS Hotel has lately undergone considerable alterations with extensive additions, com-
prising Billiard Room, Sitting Rooms, Ladies' Drawing Rooms and Bedrooms, Ac.
ating. Pishing, Croquet. Lawn Tennis. Posting in all its branches. Parties boarded
moderate terms. Cycle House.

P(\!^. ftmd TeUara/nh — Hott?l. Tarbwt. Look Lomokp.

LOCH MAREE, ROSS-SHIRE, N.B.

KENLOCHEWE HOTEL

The Hotel is situated near the head of Loch Maree aud teu miles from Auchuasheen Station, where a
ubiic coaoh awaits conveyance of passengers; private carriages can be obtained by wiring "Hotel,"
^nlochewe. Boats for fishing free on Loch Maree. Fine drives in different directions. The drive to
loch Torridon, past Loch Clare and through Glen Torridon, being one of the finest in Scotland. Ben
lioch (3216 feet) Is easily reached from the Hotel. A Steamer plies up and down the Loch daily, lying
t this end over night. It starts every morning at 8.30 and in the afternoon at 2.30. Families boarded by
'eek or month.

Lunch always ready for passengers arriving by Steamer en route for Auchnasheen Station.

Carriages and horses for Hire. Wines, Spirits, etc, of the finest quality.

otters and Telegrams carefully attended to. Mbs. MACDONALD, Proyrietrix.

LOCH MAREE HOTEL.

ROSS -SHIRE.
Lately Her Majesty's IRTest Highland Residence.

PHIS Hotel, beautifully situated in the centre of the Loch Maree District, and over-
*- looking the Loch, is now leased by Mr. T. S. M'Allister, Inverness, and under
lis Management.

^.B. — A Coach awaits the arrival of MacBraym's Steamers at Gairlorh, if wired for, during
the Season to convey Passengers to Loch Maree Hotel direct, eight miles distant.

Visitors can have Salmon and Trout Fishing Free, over 20 sq. m. of Loch.

Boats and Tackle supplied from the Hotel.

POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICE ADJOINS THE HOTEL,

POSTINQ. 1 CHARGES MODERATE,

50

LOCH NESS LOCH SHIN LONDON.

LOCH NESS.
(Under New Management.)

FO YE RS HOTE

U

NEAR the Celebrated Falls of Foyers, Beautifully situated, and commanding
Finest Views of Loch Ness and the Great Glen. Redecorated and most Com-
fortably Refurnished throughout. Salmon and Trout Fishing Free to Visitors. Foyers
is the best place for Passengers down the Caledonian Canal to break their journey, as
Steamers from Inverness arrive about 5.15 p.m., leaving Foyers about 9 a.m. next
morning, thus avoiding the early start from Inverness. Electric Light.

POSTING. Telegrams— HOTEL, FOYERS.

Post and Telegraph Office. Charges Strictly Moderate.

S. TILSTON, Proprietor.

LOCH SHIN.

OYERSCAIG HOTEL, SUTHERLANDSHIRE

Via LAIRG, N.B.
THB ANQLERS' PARADISE.

For Trout and Ferox Fishing on Loch Shin, Loch Merkland, Loch Griam,

Loch Gorra, and other Waters.

Angling on Garvie and Merkland Rivers for Salmon and Grilse.

GOOD BOATS AND EXPERIENCED GILLIES. POSTING.

DUNCAN MACKAY.

LONDON.

HOTEL DIEUDONN^.

RYDER STREET, ST. JAMES', LONDON.

Telegrams—

"GufFanti, London."

Telephone— b265 Gerrard,

Handsomely Redecorated
and Furnished throughout.

Electric Passenger Lift
to all Floors.

Apartments en suite and
self-contained.

Greatly renowned for
its excellent Cuisine.

Write for Illustrated
Brochure and Tariff.
Charges Moderate,

LONDON. 61

NEAR THE BRITISH MUSEUM.

KINGSLEY HOTEL,

Hart Street, Bloomsbury Square, LONDON.
OPPOSITE THE BRITISH MUSEUM.

THACKERAY HOTEL,

Great Russell Street, LONDON.

These large and well-appointed Temperance Hotels have
Passenger Lifts. Electric Light throughout. Heated throughout.

Bathrooms on every Floor.
Spacious Dining, Drawing, Writing, Reading, and Smoking Rooms.

Fireproof Floors. Perfect Sanitation. Telephone.
Night Porter.

The Kingsley Hotel has a good Billiard Boom.
Bedrooms from 2/6 to S/6.

Full Tariff and I'esHvionials on application.

Inclusive charge for Bedroom, Attendance, Table d'Hdte Breakfast
and Dinner, from 8/- to lo/6 ($2.00 to $2.50) per day.

ILSO UNDER the SAME MANAGEMENT . . .

ESMOND HOTEL,

1 Montague Street, Russell Square, LONDON.

This Temperance Hotel adjoins the British Museum, and is
exceptionally quiet and economical.

Bedrooms from 2/" to 3/6 per night.

Fall TaHff and Testimonials on application.

TELEQUAFHIC ADDKESSES—
Kingsley Hotel, I Thackeray Hotel, I Esmond Hotel,

"BOOKORAFT, LONPON." | " ThACKERAY, LONDON." | " TrUSLOVE, LONDON,

52 ^ LONDON.

LONDON. ^^-^^^^^^ ^^«^ v^
,dk WILD'S ^I^

TEMPERANCE HOTELS

(Limited), Jiilli'

30 to 40 LUDGATE HILL.

ALSO AT

70 and 71 EUSTON SQUARE.

3 minutes' walk from London d North-Western, Midland,
and Great Northern Railway Stations.

HOME COMFORTS. CLEANLINESS AND QUIET.

CENTRAL FOR BUSINESS AND PLEASURE.

WOBURN HOUSE FAMILY HOTEL

(Bed and Breakfast from 5s.
En Pension from 7s. per day),

UPPER WOBURN PLACE, W.C.

(Opposite St. Pancras Church.)

Eefurnished by
MAPLE & CO.

Electric Light and all
Modern Improvements.

Close to Euston, St. Pancras, and King's Cross Railway Stations.
YBRY CENTRAL TO ALL PARTS.

M. BARTLETT, Proprietress,

LONDON. 53

THE

WESTMINSTER PALACE HOTEL,

LONDON, S.W.

IMMEDIATELY OPPOSITE WESTMINSTER ABBEY AND THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.

Close to all the Government and Colonial Offices, Most conveniently situated for
all purposes, sight-seeing or otherwise. Fitted throughout with Electric Light. liifts,
and every modern convenience. Moderate Tariff, and no charge for Attendance,
rp 1 / graph, " Hostelry, London."
^*'"''\ phone, 70 Westminster.

LONDON.
Established over Half a Century.

CRANSTON'S WAVERLEY TEMPERANCE HOTELS.

37 KING STREET, OHEAPSIDE, E.G. Telegrams, "Redgauntlet, London."

In the centre of the City. Bxcei)tional advantages to persons visiting London on
business. CHARGES— Breakfast or Tea, 1/3, 1/6, 2/. Bedroom and attendance, 3/.

SOUTHAMPTON ROW, RUSSELL SQUARE, W.C. Telegrams, "Robsart, London."

The property of Cranston's liondon Waverley Hotel Company, Limited.
Magnificently funiislied. Electric Light and Elevator. Inclusive Cliarge for Bed,
Breakfast, Attendance and Bath, 5/. Convenient for City and I^aw Courts.
CA UTION. — Hee that you are taken to Crayisfon's Woceiieys.

DEVONSHIBE HOUSE HOTEL,

12 BISHOPSGATE STREET WITHOUT, LONDON, E.C.
OPPOSITE LIVERPOOL STREET STATION.
A Mrst-Class Te7nperance Hotel.
■yiSITORS to London will find this one of the most central positions from which,
^ whether by Rail, Omnibus, or Tram, they can reach all parts. The Hotel is fitted
with every modem improvement. The Public Rooms and Private Sitting Rooms are
handsomely furnished, and the Bedrooms will be found most comfortable. Liberal
arrangements made with those staying a lengthened period.

A Porter is in attetidance all night. Passenger Lift to each Floor.

Electric Light in all Public Rooms.

Telephone No. 2495. Telegraphic Address— " EXTERIOR, LONDON."

TrANTER'S hotel, LONDON.

FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL TEMPERANCE.

Over 60 Bedrooms. Good Coffee, Sitting, and Smoking Rooms.

6 to 9 Bridgewater Square, Barbican, close to Aldersgate St. Railway Station,
near St, Paul's Cathedral, G.P.O., and all places of interest. Beds from 2/, no charge
for attendance. Perfect Sanitary arrangements. Established 1859, five times en-
larged. Write for ^^ How to spend a Week in London," with Tariff and Testimonials
combined, post free. Night Porter. Clean, Quiet, Home-like, and Inexpensive.

Electric Light througho^U.

Telegraphic Address— " HEALTHIEST, LONDON."

54

LONDON.

LAMBERT,

#0ltrsmitjjs, i^Mto, atttr
3tl&ramitjjs

TO HIS MAJESTY THE KING

AND HER UTE MAJESTY QUEEN VICTORIA

Antique and Modern Diamond Work
and Silver Plate. -rzry^A^

Sacramental anti IPtesentation lg)Iate*

10, 11, 12 COVENTRY STREET,

PICCADILLY, LONDON, W.

LONDON.

65

SUN FIRE OFFICE

(FOUNDED 1710).

The Oldest

Insurance

Office in tlie

World doing

Fire Business

only.

DIRECTORS.
Frederick Henry Norman, Esiq., Chairman and Treasurer.

Cecil Chaplin, Esq.

Edward Dent, Esq.

Viscount Emlyn,

Alfred Farquhar, Esq.

The Hon. William Henry Goschen.

The Marquess of Granby.

Henry Riversdale Grrnkell, EJsq.

John G. B. T. Hildyard, Esq.

Richard Biddulph Martin, Esq., M.P

Geo. E. Mead

John ISmith

Assistant Secretaries.

The Hon. Algernon H. Mills.
Sib Hugh C. G. Montgomery, Bart.
Lord Henry Nevill.
Lambert Pole, Esq.
Marlborough R. Pryor, Esq.
Colonel Frederick Henry Rich.
The Hon. Arthur SSaumarez.
The Hon. C. L. Sclater-Booth.
Charles A. Soott-Murray, Esq,

Edward Baumer, Secretary.

MODERATE RATES. PROMPT SETTLEMENTS.

LOSSES BY LIGHTNING ADMITTED.
APPLICATIONS FOR AGENCIES INVITED. i )

HEAD OFFICE: 63 THREADNEEDLE STREET, E.G.

BRANCHES.

London, 60 Charing Cross.

„ 332 Oxford Street.
40 Chancery Lane.

,, 42 Mincing Lane.
Birmingham, 10 Bennett's Hill.
Bristol, Corn Street.
Liverpool, 6 Chapel Street.
Manchester, 71 King Street.

Yorkshire— Leeds, 15 Park Row.

„ Bradford, 2 Piccadilly.

,, Hudderstield, Station St.

Hull, 32 High Street.
Newcastle-on-Tyne, 19 Collingwood St.
Edinburgh, 40 Princes Street.
aiasgow, 42 Renfield Street.
Dublin, 12 Trinity Street.

66

LONDONDERRY — L038IBMOUTH — LOITGH :5W1LLY.

LONDONDERRY.

IMPERIAL HOTEL.

rrniS FIRST-CLASS FAMILY and COMMERCIAL HOTEL is situated
■*- in the best part of the City, stands within the City Walls, and is in
close proximity to the Cathedral, County Court House, City Hall, etc. ; is
most central for business of all kinds.

THOMAS MARSHALL HEGAN, Propriety.
Owing to recent Extension of the Railway System, Londonderry vnll he found
the most central and convenient starting-point to the County Donegal,

^nHtO

LOSSIEMOUTH.

STOTFIELD HOTEL, Lossiemouth.

^,om.:.av..n MORAYSHIRE.

A PERFECT GOLFERS' RETREAT.
BEAUTIFUL SEASIDE LINKS OF 18 HOLES.

SIXTY BEDROOMS.
Tariff on application from WILLIAM CHRISTIE, Proprietor.

LOUGH SWILLY.

LOUGH SWILLY
HOTEL,

BUNORANA,

CODHTY DONEGAL.

.-..-:^.^^.^f.:^-^^^^^r^

-^1

'^.:M

-¥'^^--

Hi

- «i». .1- — —__■».. ^^

r

■■ ■, i

ONE of the FINEST HOTELS in the NORTH OF IRELAND, with accommodation
for 100 GUESTS, situated on a promontory overlooking LOUGH SWILLY (The
Lake of Shadows). Connected with the HOTEL by covered way are HOT and COLD
SALT-WATER, NEEDLE, DOUCHE, and BROMO-IODINE BATHS. The latter have
been found very beneficial in the treatment of Rheumatic Affections.

GOLF LINKS CLOSE TO THE HOTEL, FREE TO VISITORS.

Salmon Fishing in the Cranagh River close to Hotel; Tickets to be had

from Manager. SEA FISHING.

SCENERY UNSURPASSED IN IRELAND.

THIRTY-FIVE MINUTES' BAIL FROM: LONDONDERRy.

For Terms, etc., apply to A. J. GARDNER, Manager.

LOWESTOFr LUIB LYNMOUTH LYNTON. 57

LOWESTOFT.

^"^^'A. G. & A. NOTLEY, ^^^

HOUSE AGENTS, AUCTIONEERS, AND ESTATE AGENTS,

ROYAL THOROUGHFARE, LOWESTOFT.
A large number of Furnished Houses to be let for the Season.

Telegraphic Address— '''NoThBY, Lowestoft." Telephone No. 24.

LUIB HOTEL

(LOCH TAY),

GLEN DOCHART, PERTHSHIRE.

■DEAUTIFUIiLY situated on the banks of the River Dochart, surroiiiidi'd by wild, pic-
J-* turesque, and romantic scenery, six miles from the head of Loch Tay, one mile from
Luib Station on the Callander and Oban Railway. Visitors staying at this Hotel have
the privilei^e of B'ishiiig, Free of Charge, on five miles of one of the best Salmon rivers
in the West of Scotland, and excellent Tront fishing on the River, Loch Dochart, and
Loch Nubhair. Boats Free. Golf Course. Every home comfort, coTnbined with
Moderate Charges. Parties Boarded. Posting in all branches. Post and Telegraph.

I^nib Station. Projyi-ietor, DONALD M'NAUGHTON.

LYNMOUTH, NORTH DEVON.

THE LYNDALE HOTEL.

ENGLISH SWITZERLAND.

Fii-st-Cliiss for Families and Tourists. Facing the
Bristol Chauiiel. two luinutee' walk from the Bench,
and overlooking the River Lynn. Fitted with
Electric Light and modem improveineuts. Good
Smoking and New Billiard Rooms. Shooting,
Salmon and Trout Fishing Free. All charges
strictly moderate. Write for Tariff.

Taegramt—" Ltki>ai.s, Lykmouth."

Mrs. TOM BEVAN, Proyrietreu.

LYNTON, NORTH DEVON.

THE ROYAL CASTLE FAMILY HOTEL

Patronvted hy H.R.H. the Prince of Wales and other Members of the Royal Family.

THIS Hotel, staading in its own grounds of 12 acres, commands uninterrupted
views of the Valleys of the East and West Lynn, the Welsh Coast, and the
far-famed Valley of Rocks. Elegant Suites of Private Apartments. Table d'Hdte,
Coffee Room, and Ladies' Drawing- Room,— to which have been added, New and CommO'
dious Smahing and Billiard Rooms, all facing the sea.

Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Charges. Electric Liehtino:.
GOLF. FISHING.

Post Horses. First-class Stabling.

Coaches in the Season to Ilfra^ombe and Minehead,.
TARIFF ON APPLICATION. THOMAS BAKER, Proprietor.

58

LYNTOlJ MALVERN.

THE

LYNTON, NOETH DEVON.

VALLEY OF ROCKS HOTEL.

Largest and Principal Hotel in the District.
Fitted with Electric Light throughout. Elegant Lounge Hall.

Daily Telegraph.—'^ The position of the Valley of Rocks Hotel is absolutely un-
equallttd and unparalleled in the South of England."

Punch.—" Nature — represented by Ragged Jack, the Devil's Cheese Wring, and Waters
Meet— is lovely beyond compare, and art could have no better illustration than that
furnished by the unsurpassed resources of the Valley of Rocks Hotel."

MODERATE TARIFF. J. W. HOLMAN, Resident Owner.

Telegraphic Address— HOLMAN, LYNTON. TERMS EN PENSION.

LYNTON, NORTH DEVON.

COTTAGE HOTEL.

iJ\TE FAMILY RESIDENCE OF SIR C. SMITH.

THE sheltered and sunny position of this
Hotel, which is uniquely situated in
its own beautifully wooded and extensive
grounds, 500 feet above the Sea, commands
one of the finest Ijand and Marine Views
in Devonshire. New Smoking and Billiard
Rooms. Fishing, Hunting, Golf.

EDWARD E. HOLE,
Proprietor.
Telesrrams— COTTAGE, LYNTON.

MALVERN.

HARDWIGKE PRIVATE HOTEL

ENJOYS the highest reputation for its cuisine, comforts, and general
arrangements. It is heated throughout with hot-water pipes,
thereby making it a most desirable Winter Residenee. Nearest Hotel to
Golf Links.

BILLIARD AND SMOKE ROOMS.

Under the immediate swpervision of

J. WILSON, Proprietor.

MALVERN.

THE ABBEY HOTEL.

^'JN EXCELLENT SITUATION.

U MOST COMFORTABLE FAMILY HOTEL.

Coffee Eoom, Drawing, Billiard, and Reading Rooms.
Inclusive terms during Winter months.
Perfect Sanitary Arratigements.

Miss SCHNEIDER, Manageress.

MALVERN MARGATE 59

MALVERN.

THE FOLEY ARMS HOTEL

(PATRONISED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY).
" rriHE first time we visited Malvern, when shown into an upper
jL chamber in the 'Foley Arms,' we were literally taken aback.
We can hardly say more than that the prospect struck us as far finer than
from the terrace over the Thames at Richmond, etc., etc." — Extract from
article in '^Blackwood,'* August 188 j^.

Coffee Room and Drawing Room for Ladies and Gentlemen.
Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. Miss YOUNGER, Proprietress.

GREAT MALVERN.

PORTLAND PRIVATE HOTEL

DELIGHTFULLY and centrally situated. South aspect.
Magnificent scenery. Reading, Drawing, Dining, Billiard,
and Smoke Rooms. Near Golf Links. Brine Baths, etc. Prospectus
containing splendid views of this lovely health resort, and copy of
testimonials, on application. jy WOODMAN, Proprietor.

GREAT MALVERN.

MALVERN HOUSE

HI

PRIVATE HOTEL.

Specially adapted for

WINTER AND SUMMER RESIDENCE.

GOOD TENNIS AND CROQUET LAWNS.

BIIiLIAHD AKD SMOKE BOOMS.

Mrs. MATTHEWS, Proprietress. Miss DEB, Matiageress.

MARGATE.

WHITE HABT HOTEL.

Established 150 years.

FACING sea. Sixty Bedrooms. Magnificent new Coffee Room and
Lounge, just completed, with every Comfort. Private Sitting Rooms
all face tlie sea. Table d'H6te, 7 p.m. Separate tables. Famed for its
perfect English cooking and choice wines. Short distance from Golf
Links. Bicycle lock-up. Stabling for Motors. Billiards. Special Terms
during winter months and prolonged stay. City express, 5.10 ; Holborn
Viaduct, 1 hour 30 minutes all year round. W. J. MILLS.

Telegraphic Address—" WHITE HART." Telepfwne No. 44.

60

MARGATE MATLOCK.

MARGATE.

QUEEN'S & HIGH CLIFFE HOTELS, MARGATE.

OLIFTONVILLE.

Manager— A L:^0N ADUTT.

TELEGRAMS

'Ozone, Margate."

National Telephone

60 MARGATE.

UNIOl'K Hotels in e\ery detail. I'atroiiiseil hy the leailiiij,'^ English and Continental Families
Finest Situation. Private Grounds. Tennis Courts. Cuisine a special feature. Choicest Vintage
Wines and Spirits. Appointments of the highest class. Handsome Lounge. F'inest Billiard Room in
Thanet (2 Tables). Every modern comfort. Favourite Hotels for Golfers. Special facilities offered.
Inclusive Pension or a la carte Terms. Illustrated and Moderate Tariff on application.

MATLOCK BATH, DERBYSHIRE. : ;

THE ROYAL HOTEL

WITH Hydropathic Baths of every kind and Bath Attendants, for use
' of visitors. A palatial building beautifully situated within its own
private grounds, commanding one of the most beautiful views in Derby-
shire,

Billiards. Lawn Tennis. Golfing.

Six Miles of Fishing. A Large Swimming Bath.

'Bus meets each Train. Medical Man attends Daily.
TERMS EXCEEDINGLY MODERATE.

H<' TELEPHONE No. 19.

Places of Interest within easy reach by Rail or Coach — Buxton,
Chatsworth, Haddon Hall, GasUeton, Dovedale, Wingfield Manor,
Hardwick Hall. ! HA tl '^'ii H i

MATLOCK MERTHYR TYDFIL MULLION ^1

MATLOCK BRIDGE.

ROGKSIDE HYDROPATHIC.

FIRST-CLASS HEALTH AND PLEASURE RESORT.

800 Feet above Sea Level. Pure Mountain Air.

DRY, BRACING, HEALTH-GIYING.

As a Residence for Visitors and Patients, Winter or Summer, it is unrivalled.
Commands magnificent views for many miles of Hill and Dale, Wood and Water.

Extensive Grounds finely situated. Tennis, Bowls, Croquet, Billiards, Bagatelle,
etc Excellent Recreation Room specially floored for Dancing. Good Fishing.

Hydropathic Treatment under Medical Direction. >

HIGH-CLASS CUISINE. TABLE D'HOTE, 6.30 p.m.

Nat. Telephone, No. 12. Telegrams— " Rockside, Matlockbank."

CABLE TRAM FROM STATION TO FRONT GATE.

Terms £2 : 2s. to £3 : 3s. per week.

Write for Descripti/ve Prospectus to

MISS GOODWIN, Manageress.

MERTHYR TYDFIL.

BENTLEY'S CENTRAL HOTEL,

Family and Commercial.
FIRST-CIiASS MODERN & UP-TO-DATE.

itW CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE. "^

One minute from joint and only Railway Station.

Hotel Porter attends arrival of all Trains.

THOMAS BENTLEY, Propridor.

MULLION, CORNWALL.

MULLION COVE HOTEL.

Situation unsurpassed.

TjlIRST- CLASS HOTEL with magnificent Sea Views. Close to Sea.
-■- Fine Bathing, Boating, and Fishing. Excellent Golf Links. Electric
Light throughout. Billiards. Helston Station G.W.R.
Tariff on application to Manager,

MXJLLION,

CuBY Cross Lanes, R.S.Q,

NAIRN NETHYBRIDGE — NEWCASTLE.

NAIRN.

, WAYERLEY HOTEL.

TEMPERANCE.

First-Class Family and Commercial.

Nearest in town to Station and Post-Office, and within a few minutes

walk of Golf-course and Sea-beach.

Special Week-Bnd Rates. Charges Strictly Moderate.

HUGH MACKAY, Proprietor.

NETHYBRIDGE-ON-SPEY.

NETHYBRIDGE HOTEL,

NETHYBRIDGE-ON-SPEY,

>^ ^ STRATHSPEY, N.B.

W^ New First-Class Family Hotel,

situated at the base of the Cainigonii
Mountains amongst the famous Pine
Woods of Strathspey, 700 feet above
soa-leve], replete with every comfort.

Dry Bracing Climate.

Acknowledged most valuable

Health Resort.

MODERATE CHARGES

(Special Boarding Terms

for Families).

POSTING ESTABLISHMENT.
TROUT FISHING FREE.
Golf, Tennis, and Croquet. Charming Drives and Walks.

Under the personal mcinagemcnt of Mr. and Mrs. Mackenzie.

A. G. MACKENZIE, Proprietor.

NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE.

THE TYNE TEMPERANCE

HOTEL,

HOOD STREET, NEAR TO MONUMENT.

'■PHIS Hotel having recently undergone extensive alterations, patrons will find
every comfort combined with Moderate Charges. Stock Booms. National
Telephone, No, 2144,

NEWQUAY MELFORT (NEAR OBAN). 63

NEWQUAY.

WATERGATE BAY HOTEL.

11
II

Tdegrams and Postal J fWrcs.'?— Watergate Bay Hotel, St. Columb Minor, R.S.O.

THIS First-Class Family Hotel, facing the Atlantic (south aspect), is
situated in a splendid and sheltered position in the midst of the
finest cliff scenery in Cornwall, contiguous to the famous Tregurrian
Beach (two miles of sands), and within walking distance of the
lovely Vale of Lanherne, Mawgan, Carnanton Woods, the celebrated
Bedruthan Steps, and Newquay. Riviera climate, mild but bracing.
Terms moderate. Inclusive charges if desired. Billiard Room. Good
stabling. Trains met at Newquay Station by arrangement. Further
particulars and tariff on application to the Manageress.

"CUILFAIL hToTELT

KILMELFORD, PASS OF MELFORT, NEAR OBAN.

Take yer rods an' yer reels,
Throw the doctor his peels,
And come doun to Cuilfail

Wi' yer friens leal and Irne.

First- Class Trout Fishing Free on several Lochs. Excellent Sea Trout and

Salmon Loch added. Season — 1st April io SOth Septewher.
Magnificent Highland Scenery. Healthy Locality.

Stream Fishing. Superior Sea-Fishing and Sea-Bathing

within 10 minutes walk.
Boats and Boatmen for Anglers.

rPHE lochs are annually stocked with the Loch Leven, Fontinalis, or Great American
-*- Brook Trout, also Rainbow and Sea Tront, which have proved a great success.

Billiard Room. Cycle House. Dark Room. Tennis Court. All Conveniences.
Sanitation Perfect. Families boarded by Week or Month. No accommodation for
Servants. Previous notice desirable. Luncheons and Teas ready on arrival of Coaches
to and from Oban, Ford, and Loch Awe. Postal delivery daily.

Route. — Per S.S. " Colnmha" from Glasgow, Greenock, and Gourock to Ardrishaig,
ddUy ; thence Mail Coach or hire. Finlay's estoblixhmevt, Ardrishaig, 24 miles; or by
Caledonian liaibmyto Oban; thence MacGregor's Mail Coach daily, or hire MacGregor's
estahli.shinei)f, 16 niileif.

JOHN MACFADYEN, Cuilfail Hotel, by Lochgilphead or Oban,
Telegraphic Address: Macfadyen, Cuilfail, Kilmelford.
Telejfraph Office, 20 yards from Hotel.

When tired an' fourfouchen'
When hoastin' and coughin',
Wlien ill wi' the bile

Or the wee deevils blue-

64 OBAN.

"" ^ " GREAT WESTERN

HOTEL.

(UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT.)

Delightfully situated on the Esplan-
ade, attording unrivalled views of Bay
and Surroundings. Redecorated and
refurnished throughout. Luxurious
Smoking Lounge overlooking Bay.
Electric Light. Elevator. Bus attends
all Trains and Steamers and conveys Visitors free. ALEX. M'GREGOR.

OBAN.

MARINE HOTEL.

ON THE ESPLANADE, OVERLOOKING THE BAY.

THE LARGEST AND LEADING TEMPERANCE HOUSE.

100 Rooms. Cook's Coupons Accepted. Late Dinner.
CHARGES MODERATE.

DUNCAN M'INTYRE, Proprietor.

OBAN.

MACPHERSON'S

TEMPERANCE HOTEL

STAFFORD STREET, OBAN.

CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE, AND EVERY HOME COMFORT.
The Boots waits the Arrival of all Trains and Steamers.

BLACK'S
TOURIST'S AND CYCLIST'S MAP

OF OBAN DISTRICT

LOCH RANNOCH TO STRATHAVON, CRIEFF TO LOCH CRINAN

Scale 4 miles to an inch.

Neatly folded in glazed cover for the pocket, Price 6d., or
mounted on linen, in cloth case, Price Is.

A. & C, BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, '^V

OBAN {see also p. 66) — oulton broad. 65

OBAN.
When you are in the Highlands visit

MACLAGHLAN'S,

THE ROYAL CLAN TARTAN WAREHOUSE.

Woollen Tartan Manufacturer to the King and Royal Family,

and the Royal and Imperial Courts of Europe.

Genuine handmade Scotch goods from the Shetland and Faroe Isles.

Beautiful Tweeds and Homespuns, and all the Clan and Family Tartans

(manufactured from the Highland wool grown on his own lands of Aros,

Mull, around the historic Aros Castle).

LADIES' TAILORING. SPORTSMEN'S TAILORING.

KILT-MAKING A SPECIALITY.
Madachlan's Scotch Travelling Bugs, as manufactured for and supplied to
H.R.H. THE PRINCESS OF WALEW.
H.R.H. PRINCESS CHARLES OF DENMARK,
H.R.H. PRINCESS CHRISTIAN OF SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN,
H.R.H. THE DUCHESS OF ARGYLL,
H.R.H. PRINCE HENRY OF PRUSSIA.
''Your charxningr Scotch Travelling ^ix^."— Extract from a letter of the
Duchess nf Cornwall and York.

Outside Warehouse designed Tartan and Tartan ensign.
MAOLAOH LAN'S, Oban.

OBAN.

VICTORIA HOTEL.

FIBST- CLASS— TEMPERANCE.

TN close proximity to Railway Station, Landing Pier, and Post Office, overlooking
^ the Bay. Fishing, Boating, Golf, Bowling. Special Feature, Low Charges.— Bed-
rooms, Is. 6d. and 28. Teas and Breakfasts, Is. 6d. and 2s. Dinners, Tai)le d'Hote and d
la carte, 2s. 9d. Baths— Hot and Cold.

Registered Telegraphic Address : "McLACHLAN, Oban."

Tel. 019. OULTON BROAD, NEAR LOWESTOFT.

IffHERRY HOTEL

J^NTIRELY rebuilt, facing the Broad, and replete with every

accommodation for Visitors. Private and Public Dining

Rooms. Terms on application to —

T. HORNE, Late of Great Eastern Hotel, Lowestoft.

Headquarters of the Waverley Sailing Club. Also Headquarters of tlie
O. B. Cycle Club.

SAILING AND ROWING BOATS ON HIRE. BOWLING GREEN.

5

66 OBAN (OULTON BROAD, See p. 65), OXFORD, PENMAENMAWR.

s

OBAN

TATION HOTEL

The Hotel is nearest to the Pier and Railway
Station, and occupies the best site.

It contains over 100 Rooms, and is sumptuously furnished.
High- Class Cuisine and Wines.

J. G. FLEISCHMANX, Mami/er.

C. C;4.MPBt:LL, Proprietor.

OXFORD.

tA -w-ioj^i

•ntf(.-,r, .Urrf^

THE MITRE HOTEL,

aiTUATED in the centre of the finest Street in
^ Europe, is one of the most ECONOMICAL
First -Class Hotels in the Kingdonl."' 'Billiard
Rooms, Electric Light, and Good Stabling.

PENMAENMAWB,, NOBTH WALES.

THE PENMAENMAWR HOTEL.

THIS high-class Hotel is beautifully situated in its own grounds, overlooking the Sea, quite sheltered
from easterly winds ; charming marine and mountain walks, healthful and recuperating. A good
centre for North Wales Excursions.

The Hotel is close to the Railway Station, and within a few minutes' walk of the seashore. It is
fitted up regardless of expense, and with the recent extensive alterations is now the largest Hotel in
North Wales. Hot and Cold Sea Water Baths, Billiard Room, etc. Carriages and luggage carts from
Hotel Livery Stables meet principal Trains. 30 minutes' drive to Golf Links. Tariff on application.

perth — pitlochry. 67

The Only Hotel in Perth wholly lighted by Electricity.

SALUTATION HOTEL,

PERTH.

Commercial, Family, & Tourist Headquarters, etc.

New & Spacious Stoclcrooms. Billiards.

W. G. MO WAT, Proprietor.

(Late of Central Hotel, Glasgow. )
Established 1699. Telephone, No. 120.

PERTH.

PERTH STATION HOTEL

'"PHE above Hotel is under the control of the Caletlonian, Highland, and North British
-*- Railway Companies, and will be found by Visitors to be a first-class Hotel, replete
with all modern improvements. The Hotel contains handsome Coflee, Drawing, Reading,
Smoking, and Billiard Rooms, also Suites of Apartments. All lighted by Electricity.
The well-appointed REFRESHMENT ROOMS, situated on the Station Platform,
are under the same control, where are served daily Breakfasts, Luncheons, and Dinners,
in connection with the Train Service from and to London.

iMHiliJ

n /.

ALFRED TUKE, Manager.

PITLOCHRY. t

MAGDONALD'S, ATHOLL,

Is the ORIGINAL and very much the Largest
HYDROPATHIC in the District.

"REAUTIFULLY SITUATED on a knoll, high above the valley and
village, surrounded by 36 acres of ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS,
well wooded, and containing 5 miles of private walks and drives. 500
feet above sea-level. Pure dry bracing air.

Passenger Elevator. Cuisine a Speciality.

Every loindoio commatids a view of the most magnificent scenery in Scotland.
Tennis, Croquet, Golf, Archery, Fishing, Cycling.

Inclusive Terms for May and June, firom £2 : 16s. to £3 ; 6s. each per Week.

To prevtnt disappointinent communications should he carefully addressed to

The ATHOLL HYDROPATHIC, Pitlochry.

Telegraphic Address— " ATHOLL," Pitlochry.

PITLOCHRY.

PITLOCHRY.

FISHER'S HOTEL.

FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL AND POSTING ESTABLISHMENT.

PARTIES wishing to see the magnificent scenery in this part of the
Scottish Highlands will find this Hotel (to which large additions
have been made) most convenient, for in one drive they can visit the
Falls of Tummel ; the Queen's View of Loch Tummel ; the fax-famed
Pass of Eilliecrankie ; Glen Tilt ; the Falls of Bruar, etc.

Pitlochry is on the direct route to Balmoral Castle, by Spital of Glen-
shee and Braemar ; and to Kinloch-Rannoch, by Tummel Bridge and
Braemar.

Good Salmon and Trout Fishing on 4 miles of the River Tay and 2
miles of the Tummel.

EXCURSION COACHES leave the Hotel daily during the summer
season for Pass of Killiecrankie, Falls of Bruar, Queen's View of Loch
Tummel, Kinloch-Rannoch, Glen Tilt, etc., and to Rannoch Station,
West Highland Railway, by Loch Tummel and Loch Rannoch. Seats
secured at the Hotel. Fares moderate. A Four-in-haiid Coach leaves
Pitlochry for Braemar every alternate day.

Job and Post Horses and Carriages of every kind, by the Day, Week,
or Month.

Orders by Telegraph for Rooms, Carriages, or Coach Scats, punctually
attended to. Address Manageress.

PITLOCHRY PLYMOUTH.

69

THE PITLOCHRY HYDROPATHIC.

Highlands of Perthshire. The Largest, Finest, and Leading Hydropathic.

FINEST BRACING MOUNTAIN AIR in SCOTLAND

Says late Sir ANDREW CLARK, M.D.

TN the Hydro high extensive ornamental Grounds, being the highest house, and has by /ar the most
commanding view of the grand and unsurpassed scenery all round, it is due South and in front of
the Mountain Ben-y-Vrackie, which is 2Y50 feet high. Coaching, Tennis, etc. Every comfort for
Families and Tourists making a stay. Baths — Turkish, etc. Ten minutes from Railway and Churches.
Inclusive Terms, with large superior Booms, from £2 : 168. each, or 98. per day. Stabling for Horses and
Carriages. Cycle accommodation.

Send for Prospectus.

Note Address— ROBERTSON'S, Pitlochry Hydropathic, Pitlochry.

Wt'

PITLOCHRY, N.B.

& J. MACNAUQHTON,

Wool len Man ufact u rers.

ESTABLISHED IN THE REIGN OF WILLIAM lY.

"Balmoral."
"The Queen is very much pleased with
the rugs."

"Osborne."
' ' Please send to Osborne, for Her Majesty's
approval, a number of Rugs, Wraps, and
Shawls, such as you sent to Balmoral."

"Osborne."
" Her Majesty has kept Fourteen Rugs.
You .sent a nice selection."

INTERNATIONAL AWARDS.

THE SILVER MEDAL, PARIS 1900.

HIGHEST AWARD, CHICAGO 1893.

TH E ONLY GOLD MEDAL,

EDI NBURGhTlsgO.

PRIZE MEDAL, EDINBURGH 1886.

V^isiTORS to Scotland, and especially to the Highlands, will find it to their advantage to
defer placing ordprs for Scotch Woollens until they have reached Pitlochry, which
is famed for the choicest manufactures. All are invited and recommended to write U>i'
Patterns whicli are promptly sent, Post Free.

Ladies' Tailor-Made Gowns, 70b. Ladies' Athole Capes, from 2l8.

Gentlemen's Tweed Suits, 708. Refined Styles. Perfection of Finish.

Accurate Fitting by Distinguished City Cutters. Travelling Rugs from 128. 6d.

PLAIDS, SHAWLS, WRAPS, AND SCOTCH HOSIERY.
Parcels Carriage Paid.

PLYMOUTH. ,

DUKE OF CORNWALL HOTEL.

SPACIOUS COFFEE AND DRAWING ROOMS.

HOT AND COLD BATHS. BILLIARD AND SMOKING ROOMS.

OTIS PASSENGER & LUGGAGE LIFTS. TELEPHONE 135.

Recently redecorated, latest sanitary improvements. Electric Li^ht.

TahU d'Hote daily.
N.B.— This Hotel is the most commodious and convenient in Plymouth. It is
distant only five minutes' walk from the SEA, and from the business centre of the
Town. Opposite the G.W.R. Station, Millbay.

- . Telegraphic Address—" DUKOTEL, PLYMOUTH."

7 0 PLYMOUTH PORTHC AWL PORTS ALON PRINCETOWN.

PLYMOUTH. **

THE GRAND HOTEL.

^HE FINEST POSITION IN EUROPE. Climate equally Good foi
Winter or Summer. Suites of Rooms. Three Balconies. Revise!
Tariff.

Table d'Hdte 6.30 to 8 o'clock. Telephone No. 148.

Passengers' Lift. Lighted by Electricity. Buses meet Trains.

Also ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL, EXETER.

J. HEADON STANBURY, Propriet&r.

porthoawl, south wales.

ESPIiANADE HOTEL.

100 Boomg. Electric Light. Pirst-class Chel
Table d'Hdte at Separate tables. Splendid GroV
Links along coaet ; turf firm and dry in winter.

Porthoawl is open to the Atlantic. Mear
temperature same as Bonmemouth, but climat*
peculiarly invigorating. Moat favourable for in
valids and children, and especially suitable for con
sumptive patients in winter and summer. Drj
sandy soil on limestone. Safe bathing. Sea fishing
Boating. Good drainage and first-rate watei
supply, certified by Sir B. Frankland, Analyst t<
the Local Government Board, as being oi " higl
organic purity and excellent for dietetic jrur pate's.'
Inclusive terms from lOs. 6d. per day. 13-roomet
houses in beautiful situation on Esplanade to b(
let, unfurnished, on moderate terms.

LOUGH SWILLY, CO. DONEGAL.

PORTSALON HOTEL.

fpHIS excellent Hotel, which affords first-class accommodation and every comfort t(
-*- Families, Golfers, and other Tourists, js magnificently situated, with son then
aspect, and commands sea and mountain views of matchless beauty. The Golf Links
(18 holes) are the most sporting and picturesque in the country. Good lake and sef
fishing. Boating, Bathing, Tennis, Croquet, Billiards, Cycle Store, Dark Roon
for Photography, etc. Route via Londonderry and Rathmullen ; thence by Coach daih
on arrival of mid-day Steamer. Telegrams— "Hotel, Portsalon."

For paxticulars apply MANAGER.
PRINCETOWN, DARTMOOR.

DUCHY HOTEL

(Jn the very Centre of Dartmoor.)

This First-Class Hotel is one of the highest situated Hotels in the Country, being
about 1400 feet above sea-level. Excellent Trout and Salmon Fishing.

DUCHY HOUSE PRIVATE HOTEL AND BOARDING HOUSE

(Annexe), contains the most modern improvements. Good Posting. Excellent Dairy
Tekgvim^" Duoht, P»iNOErrowN.' AARON ROWE, Proprietor.

RIPON ROSS ROTH E8 AY. 7 1

RIPON, FOUNTAINS ABBEY.

UNICORN HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE.

Patronised by H.R.H. the PRINCE of WALES.

THE largest, best appointed, and most liberally managed
Hotel in the City. Carriages of every description. Wines
and Spirits.

Telegrams: UNICORN, RIPON. Telephone: No. 4.

MRS. BERNARD EVANS, Proprietress.

ROSS ON WYE.

''THE RHINE OF ENGLAND."

Ross, Herefordshire, is the gate of the "Wye " (The Rhine of England)
and the

ROYAL HOTEL,

situated in its own beautiful grounds, commands extensive views of the
" Wye " and its enchanting scenery.

Every Comfort. Moderate Charges.

ROTHESAY.

BUTE ARMS HOTEL.

Opposite the Pier.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL MODERATE TARIFF. EXCELLENT CUISINE.

The Sanitary Arrangements are entirely new throughout the House.

Table d'Hdte, 6.30. Billiard Boom.

Telephone No, 31. ROBERT SMITH, Proprietor.

ROTHESAY.

QUEEN'S ^sm HOTEL

A FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL.

ENTIRELY REFURNISHED AND REDECORATED.

ABJOINTNG ROYAL NORTTIERX YACHT CLUB.
.»^uv\- MODERATE CHARGES. leboM
^ Miss THOMPSON, Proprietress.

72 ROTHESAY ROYBRIDQE ST. ANDREWS.

101^. "*:'.'.

ROTHESAY.

^^HOOIMU

ROYAL

HOTEL.

UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT,

FIRST-CLASS. OPPOSITE THE PIER.
MODERATE TARIFItt^ct '

Telegrams — " Royal Hotel."

JOHN MACKAY, Proprietor.

ROYBRIDGE.

ROYBRIDGE HOTEL, N.B.

Telegrams: "HOTEL." Mrs. FRASER, Zm^^?.

fpHIS Country Hotel will be found replete with all requirements and
-^ conveniences to suit the demand of all Tourists and Familie.s.
Visitors can have Free Fishing by staying in the Hotel.

Starting point for the famous parallel roads of Glenroy. Carriages
from Hotel Stables. Rail from Glasgow, four hours. Five minutes'
walk from Railway Station. G.P.O. at Hotel.

ST. ANDREWS, N.B.

ELDER'S PRIVATE HOTEL *^

FIRST CLASS PRIVATE HOTEL

riiTOl Close to Station and Links.

TABLE D'SOTS; SEPARATE TABLES. LARQE DRAWING
ROOM, AND PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS.

Sanitary arrangements complete.
Moderate Charges. DAVID ELDER, Ltssw.

ST. LEONARDS-ON-SEA SALISBURY

73

ST. LEONARDS-ON-SEA.

High-class Boarding Establishment. Facing
the Sea. Centre of Promenade.

Charming Winter Resi- ^

dence, hi lli n i1 g

ussEB

HOUSE

^s^i^i^

^^ Highly

Recommended.
GOOD CUISINE.
Electric Light throughout. Bath. Liberal Table.
Large and Lofty Rooms. Moderate Inclusive Tariff.
Under the personal supervision of the PROPRIETRESS.

ST. LEONARDS-ON-SEA.

FIFE PRIVATE HOTEL,

V

EVERSFIELD MANSIONS.

ISITORS will find every home comfort in this Establishment, facing
the Sea in the most enviable position of St. Leonards, and within
easy access of the Turkish and Swimming Baths. Terms for Board and
Residence 1^ to 3 Guineas, or 6s. 6d. to 10s. 6d, per day. Saturday to
Monday, 15s. 6d. Warrior Square Station.

Miss BRIDIE, Proprietress.

SAIJSBUEY.

THE WHITE HART HOTEL.

The Largest and Principal Hotel in the City.
A N old-established and well-known first-class Family Hotel,
^^ nearly opposite Salisbury Cathedral, and within a pleasant
drive of Stonehenge. This Hotel is acknowledged to be one of
the most comfortable in England. Table d'H6te Meals at
separate Tables two hours each meal daily. Electric Light in
all Public Rooms.

A Ladies' Coffee Room, a Coffee Room for Gentlemen, and
first-class Billiard and Smoking Rooms.

Carriages and Horses of every description for Stonehenge
and other places of interest at fixed inclusive charges. Excellent
Stabling. Loose Boxes, etc.

Posting- Master to Her Late Majesty.
Tariff on application to ERNEST BOWES, Manager.

74 SCARBOROUGH SOILLT ISLES — SHETLAND

SCAEBOROUGH.

W. ROlfi^NTREE & SONS,

HOUSE & ESTATE AGENTS.

Best Furnished and Unfurnished Houses.

BEWQVAL & STORAGE CONTRACTORS.

r.iffrroJT'-. Close to Railway Station. ""**-««-*.

ST. MARY'S, SCILLY. .

HOIiGATE'S^^'^

FIRST-GLASS --^^^

H i« tF a m I l y ho t s l:"'' '

Every Modern Convenience. Hotel Bus meets every Steamer.
Telegrams — " Holgate's, Scilly."

E. N. MUMFORD, Froprieior.

tregarthen'sThotel:

ST. MARY'S, ISLES OF SCILLY.

THE Oldest Established Hotel in the Islands, standing in its own
Grounds (within three minutes' walk of tlie landing pier). Ke^v
Wings just completed and furnished in modern style. Every home
comfort. Good Reading and Smoking Rooms for Gentlemen. Ladies'
Drawing Room. Hot and Cold Fresh and Salt-water Baths. Electric
Light throughout. The Rooms command a beautiful Panoramic View ot
the adjacent Islands. Hotel Porter meets all Steamers. Tariff on
application to the MANAGERESS. ' ^ ^ * -

CLOU ST A HOTELS

BIXTER, SHETLAND.

SITUATED at the head of the beautiful landlocked Voe of Clonstaj oti
the West Coast of Shetland. Fishing is first-class for brown trout ir
twenty lochs from 1st June to end of August. For sea trout in five lochs,
four voes, and one large burn. Good shooting over 20,000 acres, snipe,
plover, rock pigeon, many kinds of duck, rabbits and seals and otters
along the coast. The boating and sea-fishing are excellent.

.xt>\jw»vbU». .aa'vVOa \<\AV^L. t. a. ANDERSON, Secntary.

SKYE SLIGO. 75

ISLE OF SKYE.

SLIGAGHAN HOTEL'

Within easy driving distance of the Terminus of the Highland Railway,
Kyle ofLochalsh Station.

TSTEAREST Hotel to Loch Scavaig and Loch Coruisk. " Sligachan in Skye is the
■^^ rock-climbing centre ' par excellence ' of the British Isles." See Badminton
Library, Vol. Mountaineering, p. 342. Beautifully situated at the Foot of the Cuchullin
Hills. Ponies and Guides for iLoch Scavaig and Loch Coruisk. Parties living in
the Hotel have the privilege of good Salmon, Sea, and Brown Trout Fishing during
May, June, and July on one of the best Lochs in Skye, also Sea-Trout fishing on the
River Sligachan ; also good Loch and Sea Fishing.

BOATS FBEE OF CHABQB.

I *^ "^ BOATMEN, 4s. PER DAY. "^ fl Q

Parties landing at Loch Scavaio or Loch Coruisk can have Ponies afid Guides
sent to meet them at Camasiinary, or the hill above Loch Coruisk, by sending Letter
or Telegram the day previous. Cook's Coupons accepted.

Post and Telegraph Offices in the Hotel.
POSTING IN ALL ITS BEANCHES.
Telegraphic Address, WM. SHARP, Proprietor.

"Sharp, Sligichan." j .-,iUf±

ISLE OF SKYE.

BROADFORD HOTEL.

THE best starting-place for the Cuchullins, ]>och Scavaig, and Loch Coruisk, -which
are seen to greatest advantage when approached from the Sea. Good Sea, River,
and Loch Fishing ; also Boats free of charge. Parties Boarded at Moderate Terms.

All Steamers between Oban, Kyle of Lochalsh, Portree, Gairloch, Stornaway, etc.,
call here daily.

The new Pier is now open, and all Steamers land passengers there. Boots will
await arrival of Steamers during the Season.

Poatiag. Post and Telegraph Office,

J. ROSS, Lessee.

SLIGO

VICTORIA HOTEL

{FIRST-CLASS).
PATRONISED BY ALL THE NOBILITY AND GENTRY.

TOURISTS, Anglers, and Families will find every convenience, com-
bined with cleanliness and moderate charges.

PRIVATE ROOMS, LADIES' SITTING ROOMS.

BATHS— HOT, COLD, AND SHOWIER. BILLIARDS, GOLF.

Gentlemen staying at this Hotel have the privilege of Free Fishing for

Salmon and Trout on Lough Gill. Boats for hire. Posting in all its

branches. Omnibus attends all trains. Cook's and Gaze's Coupons

accepted. J. A. HALL, Proprietor.

76 SOUTHPORT 80UTHSEA STIRLING.

SOUTHPORT.

SMEDLEY HYDROPATHIC

BIREDALE PARE.

RE-FURNISHED and RE-DECORATED. ELECTRIC LIGHT. LATE DINNERS.

WELL adapted for Summer or Winter residence, for either Invalids or Visitors.
Terms from 7s. 6d. per day. Turkish, Russian, Plunge, and other Baths.
Hydropathy fully treated, under own Physician, Dr. Corkhill.
NEAR GOLF LINKS. LAWN TENNIS, BILLIARDS, ETC.

For Prospectus, apply MANAGERESS.

SOUTHSEA.

•oos rrJfg

ROYAL PIER HOTEL,

SOUTHSEA, POKTSMOUTH.
' ^'.^^"t!^ Manageress .— Miss BRAIJ{E.

THIS First-Class Hotel has been redecorated and refurnished. It is
situated in the best part of Southsea, and is the most convenient foi'
Naval, Military, and Official Gentlemen and Families.

The spacious Dining and Drawing Rooms, as well as the principal
Bedrooms, immediately overlook the Common, the Channel, and the
Isle of Wight.

Tariff very moderate. Modified terms arranged for large parties or for
long periods.

Book to Portsmouth Town Station, from which the Hotel is only about
five minutes' drive.

_, -^ ^ , STIELING.

WAVtilLEV TEMPERANCE HOTEL

Formerly CARMICHAEV S. Estallished over Fifty Years.

Within three minutes' walk of the Station, and on the way •
to the Castle. Also Restaurant in Connection.
First-Class Hotel for Families, Tourists, & Commercial Gentlemen.
MODERATE CHARGES.

P. M 'ALPINE, Proprietor.

STRATHPBFFER.

11

SPA HOTEL.

THE OLDEST-ESTABLISHED & LEADING HOTEL

HIGHEST SITUATION (400 feet above Sea-level).

THE SPORTING HOTEL OF
THE HIGHLANDS.

SUPERIOR MIXED SHOOTING.

SALMON & TROUT PISHING FREE.

BOATING. GOLF. TENNIS. CROQUET.
CLOSE TO FINE 18-HOLE GOLF COURSE.

CONTAINS Spacious Public Rooms, Private Apartments en suite,
Recreation and Ball Rooms, Conservatories, and is secluded enough
to ensure to visitors the Privacy and Quiet of an ordinary Country
Residence.

Cycle Court with Professional attendants. Croquet Green.
POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.

A. WALLACE, Momager,
r^e^aww—" WALLACE, Strathpeffeb, "

78 STRATHPEFFER

MUNRO'S

STRATHPEFFER HOTEL.

HIGHLAND SPA.

NEAREST HOTEL TO THE RAILWAY STATION, THE WELLS,

AND NEW GOLF COURSE. HOTEL ENLARGED.
EVERY HOME COMFORT WITH MODERATE CHARGES.

i EN PENSION 2^^ GUINEAS, £3:]0s. i

I JOHN M. MUNRO, Proprietor, i

STRATHPEFFER SPA, ROSS-SHIRE.

WHYTE'S HOTEL.

CLOSE TO THE WELLS AND BATHS.

A. D. WHYTE, Proprietor.
STRATHPEFFER.

RAYENSCROFT.

FIRST-CLASS BOARDING HOUSE.

FINELY and healthily situated on elevated ground, and within easy
walking distance of the famous Sulphur and Chalybeate Wells and
Baths. Good cooking and every comfort. Moderate terms.

Ap2Jhj MRS. ANDERSON,

RaVENSCEOFT, STRATHPEFFER, N.B.

■ J... . t-r>-- STRATHPEFFER.

BALMORAL LODGE,

FIRST-CLASS BOARDING HOUSE,

OITUATED on the hill, commanding a fine view with southern
^ exposure ; close to the Mineral Wells, Baths, and Golf Course.
Public Dining Room and Drawing Room, Private Parlours. Terms on

'^''"""""- • •^.;:;„.le J*- I'^^NET, Proprietrix.

STRATFORD-ON-AVON — TENBY — TINTAGEL TOMINTOUL

79

TENBY.

THE COBOURG HOTEL:

PACING THE SEA. NORTH BAY.

Ladies' Drawing Room, Private Sitting Rooms, Hot and Cold Bath
Rooms. Tariff on application. Special Terms for Winter Season.
Omnibus to all Trains.

Also of the Royal Station Hotel, Bath.

Mrs. J. HUGHES, Proprietress,

TINTAGEL, NORTH CORNWALL.

WHARNCLIFFE ARMS HOTEL,

FIRST-CLASS FOR FAMILIES AND TOURISTS.

1 \EI-IGHTFULLY situated near the Sea, and within five minutes' walk of tlie cclc-
^ bratt'd King Arthur's Castle, and the tinest and most romantic scenery in England.
Within tour-and-a-half miles of the Camelford Station on the Ij. & S. W. Railway.
Jonveyances from this Hotel' meet the principal trains, or Private Carriages can be
ient at any hour on receipt of "Wire.

Telegraphic Address— "FRY, TINTAGEL

JAMES FRY, Proprietor.

TOMINTOUL, N.B.

By Orantown or Ballindalloch,

RICHMOND HOTEL.

(/« connecti<rn with King's Arms, Oban}.

>^KW First-cl!i8s Kaiiiily Hotel hikI
-^^ Health Resort : 1161 ft. alwve sen
•vel : on driving route between Brae-
liir, Buluiui-al, aud Grautown. Fig

>.•(;, GOI.K, POHTINO.

HUfK Coacli, 1.5th Jane to I9th So{

Toniintoul leave 9 ».ni.

Grantown . . . .arr. 11.30 a.m.
Orantown . . . .leave 3.30 p.m.
Tomintoul. . . .arr. 6 p.m.

STRATFORD-ON-AVON.

SHAKESPEARE HOTEL

AND ITS FIVE GABLES.

First-Class Family Hotel and Posting House. Centrally situated.

HOTEL OMNIBUS MEETS THE TRAINS.

BILLIARDS AND BATHS.

A. JUSTINS, Proprietrm.

80

TORQUAY TR0S8ACHS.

TORQUAY OLD ESTABLISHED

HIGH-CLASS BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT.

idiiiws

South aspect, grand Sea View. Close to Royal Terrace, Gardens, Rock Walks, Promenad
Pier, Town Station. House stands in its own Grounds. Lawn Tennis Courts free fc
Visitors. Terms on application. Proprietress Mrs. MANN, Kietor House, Bdgrave Ra

TROSSACHS,

STRONACHLACHAR HOTEL,

HEAD OF LOCH KATRINE.

DONALD FERGUSON, Proprietor.

THIS Hotel, the only one on the shores of Loch Katrine, is mos
beautifully situated in the heart of ROB ROY'S Country
GLENGYLE and the romantic GRAVEYARD of CLAJ
GREGOR, both described at page 77 of "Perthshire Guide,
being in close proximity ; and as a fishing station it is unsurpassec
Excellent boats and experienced boatmen are kept for parties stayini
at the HoteL

The Hotel is replete with every comfort, and is reached either by way c
Callander and Trossachs and the Loch Katrine Steamer, or by the Loci
Lomond Steamer and Coach from Inversnaid, there being a full service o
Coaches and Steamers by both these routes during the season.

. j^: Post and Telegraph Office In Hotel.

fc.HTA>T<Ti BOARD BY WEEK OR MONTH.

Carriages and other Conveyances kept for Hire.
Address : STRONACHLACHAR, by Inversnaid.

TROSSACHS. 81

OJii

TROSSACHS HOTEL,

LOCH KATRINE.

B. BLAIE, Proprietor,

rriHIS First-Class Hotel is beautifully situated in the midst of
-*- the classic scenery of Scott's " Lady of the Lake," and is the
ONLY HOTEL in the Trossachs.

Parties staying for not less than a week can be boarded on
SPECIAL TERMS, excepting from 15th July to 15th Sept.

During the season Coaches run from Callander Railway Station
to the Trossachs, in connection with all Trains, and in connection
with all Steamers on Loch Katrine. These Coaches all stop at this
Hotel, giving passengers time to Lunch.

Excellent Fishing in Lochs Katrine and Achray. Boats en-
gaged at the Hotel, and at the Boathouse, Loch Katrine Pier.

.^^ ^BILLIARDS. LAWN TENNIS.

i^r^ THE TROSSACHS HOTEL, ^ 1

Loch Katrine,

By CALLANDER, N.B.

R. BLAIR, Proprietor.

POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN HOTEL.

6

82 TUNBRIDGE WELLS TWEEDSMUIR TYNDRUM WARWICK.

TUNBRIDGE WELLS.

WILD'S TEMPERANCE HOTEL

FIRST CLASS. GROVE HILL ROAD.

TWO minutes from S.E.R. Station. Ten minutes from L.B. &S.C,
Close to Common. Home Comforts and Cleanliness. Drawing Room
Smoke Room and Large Coffee Room.

Also at B EIGHT ON.
York House Temperance Hotels, Ltd., Proprietors.

TWEEDSMUIR, PEEBLESSHIRE.

THE CROOK HOTEL, OR ANGLER'S RESORT

IS finely situated on Upper Tweed, 7 miles from Broughton Station
Peeblesshire (Caledonian Rly.). Free Fishing on Tweed and tribu
taries. Posting from the Hotel. Charges moderate. Visitors comin^^
from a distance should write at least a day before, to have conveyanci
waiting them at Station.

Any other information may he had from the Manageress.

TYNDRUM.

ROYAL HOTEL, TYNDRUM, PERTHSHIRE

800 feet above sea-level, and gravel soil. Bracing, cleai
mountain air. Picturesque scenery. Trout-fishing good anc
free of charge. Large modern rooms.

CHARGES MODERATE.
POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.

JOSEPH STEWART, Proprietor.

WARWICK.

WOOLPACK HOTEL.

Tj^IRST-CLASS Family. Much enlarged, refurnished throughoul
Ladies' Coffee Room. Drawing and Bath Rooms. Wei
patronised by Americans. Excellent Stabling. Charges moderat(
Heated throughout la Winter.
ja^rOH m r MRS. ANNE HALBEARD, Proprietress.

(WATERFORD, WATERVILLE, WEST LINTON, SPA 84) WINDERMERE. 83

BELSFIELD HOTEL,

WINDERMERE.

^Si>rx^ ,_^^, ■ '-

"BELSFIELD HOTEL" has justified its claim to the premier position among the
leading hotels of the neighbourhood. This palatial building— originally erected as a
private mansion— stands within no fewer than eight acres of charmingly designed and
well - wooded grounds that are remarkable as vantage-points for some of the most
picturesque views. The interior has been superbly decorated, the ceilings and
mural embellishments being really remarkable as works of art, while equal taste has
been displayed in the details of the costly furniture. Indeed, such handsome
surroundings are rarely to be met with at Hotels either in or out of London.

Private Omnibus attends all Trains, and also at the
Steam Yacht Pier, Bowness Bay.

Four-in-hand Coaches leave the Hotel daily for all parte of the
Lake District. 1 U ^jL U y

GOLF. BILLIARDS. FISHING. TENN!S.

Lighted by Electricity.

Under the Personal Superintendence of the Proprietor,

Telephone No. 123.

T..L.oR*Ms_ A. D. M'LEOD

I-

Belskield, Windermere.

(Late Manager, Gairloch Hotels Ross-shire).

84 WATERFORD WATBRVILLE WEST LINTON YARMOUTH.

WATERFORD.

^ THE ADELPHI HOTEL, WATERFORD.

DAVID KEOGH, Proprietor.

4^

'pHIS ia one of the most beautifully situated Hotels in the South of Ireland ; it com-
-•- mands a full view of the River Suir, the unrivalled Quay of Waterford, and the
most picturesque scenery about the city.

THE SITTING ROOMS, LADIES' COFFEE ROOMS, AND BEDROOMS
are large, lofty, and commodious.

There is also a well-appointed Billiard Room and a comfortable Smoking Room.

Families, Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen who appreciate comfort, cleanliness,
and careful attention, combined with moderate charges, will find in this Hotel all that
is desirable.

An Omnibus attends the arrival and departure of the Trains and Steamboats.

WATERVILLE. ~

BAY YIEW HOTEL,

WATERVILLE, OO. KERRY.

Salmon and Sea Trout Fishing,
"y ISITORS to this Hotel can have the privilege of free Salmon Fishing on the well-
^ known Cummeragh and Inny Rivers, and White Trout fishing on the well-known
Derriana Lakes, now admitted to be the best fishing in Ireland, the Proprietor
having leased the Fishing on these Private Waters for the exclusive use of his Visitors.
Also 60,000 acres of Grouse Cock and Snipe Shooting. Bathing, Boating, Sea
Fishing, Golfing, and Lawn Tennis Courts on own grounds. Scenery magnificent. Lake,
Sea, and Mountain. J. GALVIN, Proprietor.

WEST LINTON.

RAEMARTIN TEMPERANCE HOTEL.

830 feet above sea level.

OFFERING Home Comforts and unlimited delights to Golfer, Angler,
Cyclist, or Pedestrian ; and medically recommended as a most ex-
cellent Health Resort, Moderate Terms.

J. K. RAE, Proprietor.

QUEEN'S HOTEL, Marine Parade, Great Yanouth.

g NATIONAL TELEPHONE, No. 28. TELEGRAMS, "Nightingale, Queen's, Great Yannouth."

FINEST position, in the centre of the Marine Parade. Opposite the New Pier, close to
Aquarium. Facing the Sea and New Beach Gardens. Unrivalled views. Nearest
Hotel to the Golf Links. Luxuriously furnished. Fitted with all modern improve-
ments, Sanitation perfect. Private Apartments, Coffee and Table d'H6te Room (electric
light) 120 feet long— facing the sea. Ladies' Drawing Room, Smoke, Billiard (newly
erected and re-titted), Reading and Writing, Bath Rooms (Fresh and Sea Water— direct
supply), etc. 125 Bed and Sitting Rooms. Excellent Cuisine, Table d'H6te at
separate tables. J. W. NIGHTINGALE, Proprietor.

"The 'Queen's' for position, is unrivalled."— ©enWeman'* Journal, 3rd September 1897.

COACHES RAILWAYS. 85

NORTH DEVON.

LYNTON AND MINEHEAD. '

The Well-appointed Vast Four-Horse Coaolies

"LORNA DOONE" & "RED DEER"

Commence running for the Season, on Easter.
Monday, between Kailway Station, Minehead, and
Royal Castle Hotel, Lynton. For particulars see G. W. Railway Time Tables
and Bills. THOMAS BAKER, Proprietor.

Lynton, 1902Br a38M3T<!38 §t> J8

~ DEESIDE COACHES.

BALLATER & BRAEMAR YIA BALMORAL.

Are now running Daily (Sundays excepted), in
connection with Trains froni and to AberdeeNi aa
Ballater, 1st June 1902. undernoted :— ■,; to

May. June. July, August, September.

Ballater.. dep. 10 Oft.m. 10 0a.m. 2 15p.m. 10 0a.m. 12 5p.m. 2 15p.m.

Braemar arr. 12 30 p.m. 12 30 p.m. 4 45 p.m. 12 30 p.ui. 2 35 p.m. 4 45 p.m.

Braemar dsp. 3 15 p.m. 9 25 a.m. 4 40 p.m. 9 15 a.m. 3 5 p.m. 4 40 p.m.

Ballater arr. 5 30 p.m. 11 40 a.m. 6 55 p.m. 1130 a.m. 5 20 pm. 6 55 p.m.

Tickets secured at Joint Railway Station Ticket Office, Aberdeen ; Inrercauld Arms
Hotel, Ballater ; Fife Arms and Invercauld Arms Hotels, Braemar.

THE ESKDALE AND LIDDESDALE COACHING TOURS

In the Southern Highlands of Scotland.

No. 1. Eskdale Tour. Daily at 9.45 a.m. 30 miles' drive midst the bntciug air and moorland
Bceuery of the Eskdale Hills, in the Historical Land of Roman Camps, Druid Cireles, Hand-fastening
Haughs, Covenanting Haunts, and Martyrs' Monument, etc., etc.

Returning 4.50 p.m. in connection with trains North and South. Fare 3*. 6d. Parties of Hx, 3«. each.

No. 2. Liddesdale Tour. Every Thursday at 9.10 a.m. 40 miles' drive in Ewesdale, Liddesdale, and
Eskdale, through the Land of Lord Ernest Hamilton's "Outlaw! of the liarchei," visiting Hermitage
Castle (associated with the name of Mary Queen of Scots, Bothwell, Lord Soulis, and Sir W. Douglas),
and passing Hartsgarth, Kedheugh, Whithaugh, Tarras, etc.

Returning 5.15 p. tn. in connection with trains North and South, fare 44. Parties of six, 3«. 6(f. each.
For full particulars of both Coach Tours, send 3 stamps for Illustrated Guide.

Proprietor— ^m. DOUGLAS, Eskdale Temperance Hotel, Langholm, N.B.
Telegram* — " Eskdale Hotel." For Hotel advertisement see page 42.

THE HIGHLAND RAILWAY.

THE HIGHLAND LINE, via PERTH and DUNKELD,

IS THE DIRECT AND QUICKEST to

INVERNESS AND THE NORTHERN HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND.

For particulars as to Train Service, Through Carriages, Fares, etc., see the Company's
Time-table, which will be sent to any address on application.

The Station Hotel, Inverness, has been Renovated and Refurnished,
and Is now open to Visitors.

Invkrkbss, 1902. T. A. WILSON, General Manager.

86

RAILWAYS.

FURNESS RAILWAY.

f.MioeQO &RnoTX--iXjo'*i toa'T. beinioc

Twenty Coach and Steam Tacht
TGURS THROUGH LAKELAND

ffi'l' .9itfiT

DAILY DURING

JUNE, JULY, AUGUST, & SEPTEMBER 1902.

No. 1.— OUTER CIRCULAR TOUR, em-
bracing Windermere Lake, Fumess
Abbey, and Coniston.

No. 2.— INNER CIRCULAR TOUR, em-
bracing Furness Abbey, Coniston Lake
(Gondola), and Crake Valley.

No. 3.— GRANGE and WINDERMERE
CIRCULAR TOUR, embracing Grange,
Kendal, and Windermere Lake.

No. 4.— MIDDLE CIRCULAR TOUR, em-
bracing Windermere Lake, the Crake
Valley, and Coniston Lake.

No. 5.— RED BANK and GRASMERE
TOUR, vid Ambleside and Skelwith
Force.

No. 6.— THIRLMERE, GRASMERE, and
WINDERMERE TOUR, vid Ambleside,
Clappersgate, and Red Bank.

No. 7.— THE FOUR LAKES CIRCULAR
TOUR, viz. Coniston, Grasmere, Rydal,
and Windermere.

No. 8.— CONISTON to CONISTON TOUR,
via Red Bank, Grasmere, and Amble-
side.

No. 9.— TARN HOWS TOUR, vm Amble-
side and Coniston, returning by Tilber-
thwaite and Elterwater.

No. 10.— ROUND THE LANGDALES and
DUNGEON GHYLL TOUR, vid Amble-
side, Colwith Force, Grasmere, and
Rydal.

No. 11.— ULLSWATERTOUR, ma Amble-
side, Kirkstone Pass, and Brothers
Water, returning vid the Vale of Trout-
beck and Lowwood.

No. 12.— DERWENTWATER (Keswick)
TOUR, vid Ambleside, Grasmere, and
Thirlmere.

No. 13.— THE FIVE LAKES CIRCULAR
TOUR, viz. Windermere, Rydal, Gras-
mere, Thirlmere, and Derwentwater.

No. 14.— WASTWATER TOUR, vid Sea-
scale and Gosforth.

No. 15.— THE SIX LAKES CIRCULAR
TOUR, viz. Windermere, Rydal, Gras-
mere, Thirlmere, Derwentwater, and
Ullswater.

No. 16.— THE DUDDON VALLEY TOUR,
vid Broughton-in-Fiu-ness, Ulpha, and
Seathwaite.

No. 17.— THE ROUND OF CONISTON
LAKE NEW TOUR.

No. 18.— ENNERDALE LAKE and
OALDER ABBEY TOUR, vid Seascale,
Gosforth, and Cold Fell.

No. 19.— ACROSS THE FERRY TOUR,
vid Esthwaite Water, Hawkshead,
Ferry, and Storrs Hall.

No. 20.— CARTMEL PRIORY and
NEWBY BRIDGE TOUR, vid Winder-
mere (Lake Side), Holker Park, and
Grange.

For further particulars see "Tours through Lakeland" Pamphlets,
to be had gratis at all Furness Railway Stations ; of Mr. F. J. Ramsden,
Superintendent of the Line, Barrow-in-Furness ; at Messrs. Thos. Cook
& Sons' and H. Gaze & Sons' Offices, and the Polytechnic Institute,
Regent Street, "W., and Royal Exchange, Manchester; or Messrs. W. H.
Smith & Son's principal Bookstalls (price ^d. ).

The New Palette Album, illustrating the above Tours, is now published,
price 6d.

ALFRED ASLETT,

BARROw-iN-FURNESSj.^nuivv* «• n:i Secretary and General Manager.
April 1902. IW.A.T

RAILWAYS.

87

GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY

lUICKEST, BEST AND MOST PICTURESQUE ROUTE TO

Bath, Bristol, Exeter, Plymouth, North and South Devon, Cornwall,
Birmingham, Midland Counties, South Wales, Ireland, etc.

EXPRESS TRAINS between LONDON (Paddington Station)

AND

HOURS.

AND j HOURS.

AND j HOURS.

AND

HOURS.

Bristol . . in
Weymouth. „
Exeter . . „
Torquay. . „

P

Plymouth .in 5i
Penzance . ,, 8^

Oxford . . „ i 11
Worcester. ,, 2i

Leamington . in
Birmingham . „
Wolv'hmpt'n. ,,
Shrewsbury . .,

2

f

3J

Chester . . in
Birkenhead „
Cardiff . . „
Swansea. . ,,

5

I

ALL TBAINS are FIEST, SECOND and THIBD CLASS.

Corridor Carriages, with reserved Compartments for Ladies, Smoking Saloons and Lavatory Compart-
ments of each class, are run on many of the Express Trains.

Channel Islands, via Weyiouth or Southampton.

The Steamboat Service between Weymouth and the Channel Islands and Southampton and tlie Channel
Islands is carried on jointly by the Great Western and London and South Western Railway Companies.
For full particulars see Time-book.

IRELAND.

POWERFUL FAST STEAMERS BETWEEN NEW MILFORD AND WATERFORD, AND CORK.

The powerful Steamers between Milford Haven and Waterford, and Cork afford the Quickest Route to
all Stations in the South and West of Ireland. Durinj»- the Summer months Tourist Tickets are issued to
Killarney, by the renowned and picturesque route popularly known as the '* Prince of Wales," via Glengaritl.

NORTH OF IRELAND EXPRESS SERVICE.
LIVERPOOL, BELFAST AND LONDONDERRY.

Through Express Trains by the Shortest and Best Route between WEST OF ENGLAND

(Via Severn Tunnel), Swansea, Cardiff, Newport and other Stations in South

Wales, and Liverpool, Manchester, Lancashire and Yorkshire Districts,

And all the Principal Towyis in the North of England and Scotland.
EXCURSION, TOURIST AND OTHER PLEASURE TRAFFIC.

During the Season the Great Western Company supply gratuitously programmes of Tourist arrangements
and Passengers are thereby enabled to secure valuable and reliable information as to Fares, Koutes, Convey-
ances, etc. Winter Tourist Tickets are issued to Torquay, Paignton, Fowey, Newquay, Truro, Falmouth,
Helston, St. Ives, Penzance, Tenby and certain other Health Resorts. Pleasure Party Tickets at Reduced
Rates are issued during the Summer months, and special arrangements made for the conveyance of Football
Parties, Cricketers, etc. Excursion Trains are run during the Season between the Principal Stations on
Great Western Railway.

PASSENGERS' LUGGAGE COLLECTED AND DELIVERED IN ADVANCE AT 1S. PER PACKAGE.

DINING, LUNCHEON AND BREAKFAST SALOONS between London and Bristol,
and Exeter and CarditT. Table d'Hote dinner, 3s. dl. ; Breakfast or Luncheon, 2S. 6d.

LUNCHEON BASKETS can be obtained at the principal Sutions. Hot or Cold Luncheon, with
bottle of beer, 3s. ; without beer, 2s. 6d.

TEA BASKETS, containing Pot of Tea or Coffee, Bread and Butter, and Cake or But^; for. one
person, is. ; Tea Basket for two persons, is. 6d. " ' Ji i T .

'• -; ,i;C' ■

Hotels under the Management of the Great Western Railway Company.

Great Western Royal Hotel, P.^DDINGTON STATION ; Trc^renna Castle Hotel, ST. IVES, CORNWALL :
South Wales Hotel. Nkw Mii.FOKU ; Hotel Wyncliffe, Goodwick, PEMBKOKtSHiRH.

MARCHigoo. ' J. L. WILKINSON. Genera/ ^/a«jtr<f.

88 RAILWAYS.

THE DISTRICT RAILWAY,

EITHER BY ITS OWN LINE ■"^/*«'
OR BY ITS CONNECTIONS, SERVES -5
THE WHOLE OF THE

PLACES OF AMUSEMENT,
INTEREST, AND ATTRACTION,

IN AND AROUND LONDON.

It is the most direct and quickest means of
conveyance between

EAST END, CITY, & WEST END,

and it connects with the
TERIVIINI OF ALL "
THE RAILWAYS RUNNING INTO LONDON.

Through Bookings are in operation between the

DISTRICT LINE AND ALL STATIONS IN

LONDON AND THE SUBURBS.

Always ask for Tickets "via DISTRICT RAILWAY."

The " DISTRICT RAILWAY " MAP of LONDON is obtainable
at the Company's Booking Offices, at Station Bookstalls, and of the
Principal Booksellers throughout the Kingdom.

Price 6d. (on Paper), Is. Mounted (Limp or Stiff Cover),
3s. 6d. Mounted, Rollered, and Varnished,

CAMBRIAN RAILWAYS. s^

TOURS IN WALES.

Bathing, Boating, Fishing (Sea, River, & Lake), Golfing, Coaching,
Mountaineering.

TOURIST TICKETS available for two montlis, issued throughout the year, from
London and all principal Stations in England, Scotland, and Ireland to Aberyst-
wyth, Borth., Machynlleth, Aberdovey, Towyn, Dolgelly, Bar-
mouth, lilanbedr and Pensarn, Harlech, Portmadoc, Criccieth,
Pwllheli, Llanidloes, Khayader, Builth Wells, and Brecon.

CHEAP WEEK-END & TEN DAYS' TICKETS are issued every Friday or Saturday

(with certain exceptions, for which see the Issuing Companies Announcements)
Throughout the Year, from LONDON, SHREWSBUKY, BIRMINGHAM,
WOLVERHAMPTON, STAFFORD, BURTON, DERBY, LEICESTER, PETER-
BORO', LEEDS, HUDDERSFIBLD, STOCKPORT, OLDHAM, MANCHESTER,
PRESTON, BLACKBURN, ROCHDALE, BRADFORD, WAKEFIELD, HALIFAX,
BOLTON, WIGAN, WARRINGTON, CREWE, LIVERPOOL, STOKE, BIRKEN-
HEAD, and other Stations to the CAMBRIAN WATERING-PLACES.

ABOUT 30 BAIL AND COACH EXCUBSIONS DAILY

Are run from the Cambrian Railways, during the Summer Months, through the finest

Scenery in the Principality.

Cycling and Walking Tours at cheap fares, through the Mountain, River, and Lake

Districts.

For particulars see Rail and Coach Excursions Programme, issued gratis (July).

EXPRESS TRAINS WITH 1st, 2nd, AND 3rd CLASS LAVATORY
CARRIAGES

(LONDON to ABERYSTWYTH 6i hours ; BARMOUTH 7 hours)

Are run daily during the Season in connection with Fast Trains on the London and
North - Western and other Railways, between London, Liverpool, Manchester,
Birmingham, Stafford, Shrewsbury, Hereford, Merthyr, Cardiff, Newport (Mon.X
&c., and Aberystwyth, Barmouth, Ac.

See the Cambrian Bailways' new and beautiful Album "A SOUVENIR," Gems of picturesque
soenepy in Wild Wales. 65 SUPERB VIEWS. Price 6d. At the principal Railway
Bookstalls, the Company's Stations, and the undermentioned Offices, &c.

"PICTURESQUE WALES" (lUustrated).

The Official Guide • Book to the Cambrian Railways, edited by Mr. GODFREY
TURNER, price 6d., can be obtained at the Bookstalls, and at the Company's Offices
or Stations ; also of Messrs. W. J. Adams and Sons, 69 Fleet Street, London, B.C.

FARM-HOUSE AND COUNTRY LODGINGS.
Attention is drawn to the illustrated pamphlet issued by the Company,

LISTS OF LODGINGS,
Price Id. at the principal Railway Bookstalls and Company's Stations.
Time Tables, Tourist Programmes, Guide-Books, and full particulars of Trains,
Fares, &c., may be obtained from Mr. W. H. GOUGH, Traffic Superintendent,
Oswestry, at any of the Company's Stations, and at the Cambrian Offices, 91 Lord
Street, Liverpool, The Exchange, Canlifl', 8 Stanley Road, Meersbrook, Sheffield, or
on application to the undersigned. Also at the CAMBRIAN RAILWAYS' LONDON
OFFICES, 32 WESTBOURNE GROVE, .53 QUEEN VICTORIA STREET, 150 PICCA-
DILLY, and at the undermentioned Offices of Messrs. Henry Gaze & Sons, Ltd.,
Excursion Tourist Agents—

Manehester— 111 Market Street ; Liverpool— 93 Lord Street ; Birmingham— 36
Union Passage, New Street ; Dublin— 16 Suffolk Street ; Qlasgow— Central Station.

C. S. DENNISS,

Oswestry, April 1902. Secretary and General Manager.

90 TA"/' RAILWAYS.

LONDON & SOUTH WESTERN RAILWAY.

CORRIDOR TRAINS, LUNCH and DINING CARS, all classes, are now running in principal
servlces-between LONDON (Waterloo) and the WEST OF ENGLAND.

The Shortest, Quickeit, and most Picturesque Route between London, Portsmouth, Isle of Wight, and tlio
West of England.

This popular Railway skirts the South West Coast, runs through most beautiful scenery of Iforth and
South Devon, and provides direct communication with the attractive Jforth ComwaU coast via CamMford :
also with the /sle of Wight via Portsmouth I/arbour, via Stokes Bay, via Southampton, or via Lymingtmi.

It also supplies frequent services between London and the Thames Valley, Richmond, Windsor, etc.

Passengers travelling by the London and South Western Expresses may at Exeter make connections for
Torquay, Dartmouth, and South Devon.

Express Trains between London ( Waterloo) and Exeter in 3 hours 30 mins. ; Il/racombe in 6 hours
6 utius.; Lynton in 6 hours 57 mins.; Plymouth in 6 hours a mins.; Stoanage in 3 hours 8 mlns.; Bourne-
mouth in 2 hours 5 mins. ; Brockenhurst (for New Forest) in 2 hours 5 mins. ; Weym/ruth in 3 hours
18 mina. ; SoiUhampton in 1 hour 41 mins.; Portsmouth in 2 hours 1 min. ; Ryde in 2 hours 50 mins. ;
Ventnor in 3 hours 20 mins. ; Seaton in 4 hours 22 mins. ; Budleigh Satterton in 4 hours 36 mins. ;
Bude in 6 hours 10 mius. ; Padstow in 7 hours 20 mins.

First, Second, and Third Class Lavatory accommodation in principal trains.

Pullman Cars are run in the 9.30 a.m., 12.30,* 2.0, and 4.50 p.m. trains from Waterloo to Brockenhurst
and Bournemouth, and in the 7.50, 9.12, 11.10 a.m., and 1.58 p.m. trains from Bournemouth to Waterloo.
* Not for Brockenhurst.

Steamship Services. — The London and South Western Steamships are the largest, mast commodious,
avlA fastest vessels engaged in the Channel service, and possess all modem improvements.

To Havre (for Paris, Normandy, and Brittany) every week day, leaving Waterloo Station at 9.60 p.m.,
arriving Havre 6 a.m. and Paris 11.30 a.m.

To Guernsey and Jersey every week day, via Southampton and Weymouth, during the Summer, and
alternate days, via Southampto^i or Weymouth, during the Winter.

To St. Malo every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.

To Clierbourg every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, leaving Waterloo Station at 8.5 p.m.

Passengers' Personal Luggage collected, forwarded, and delivered in advance.
Cheap Tourist and ExciM-sion Tickets are issued, during the season, to all parts.

Full particulars can be obtained at any of the Company's Stations, or upon application to Mj-.
Henry Holmes, Superintendent of the Line, Waterloo Station, S.E.

CHAS. J. OWENS, GenereU Manager.

VISIT

KILKEE (%?), LAHINCH and LISDOONVARNA,

and the UNRIVALLED CLIFF and COAST SCENERY of

WEST CLARE.

The Direct Route to these famous Health and Pleasure Resorts is by the
WEST AND SOUTH CLARE RAILWAYS

From ENNIS to ENNISTYMON (for Lisdooiivarna).

l.AHINCH (for the Golf Greens and the Cliffs of Moher).
MILTOWN MALBAY (for Spanish Point), and

KILKEE.

NEW AND DIRECT ROUTE BETWEEN

KILLARNEY AND CONNEMARA. ^

The West and South Clare Railways and the Board of Works' Coach and Steamer
Services give a through connection from Killarney, Glengarriff and Listowel to Tar-
bert, Kilrush, Kilkee, Miltown Malbay, Lahinch, Lisdoonvama, Ennis, Connemara,
Dublin, and the North of Ireland, and vice versa.

Through Tourist Tickkts are issued at the Principal Railway Stations in Ireland
and England ; also at the Offices of Messrs. Thos. Cook and Son, Messrs. Henry Gaze
and Sons, and Messrs. Dean and Dawson ; and at the Irish Railway Companies' Tourist
Office, 2 Charing Cross, London, S.W.

For information as to Fares, R«utes, Hotels, Golfing, Fishing, etc., apply to—

West Clare Railway, Ennis, i!K)2. PATBICK SULLIVAN, Manager.

RAILWAYS. 91

" What sends picturesque tourists to the Rhine and Saxon Switzerland ? Within five
miles around the pretty inn of Glengarriff there is a country the magnificence of which
no pen can give an idea."— Thackeray.

CORK, BANDON, AND SOUTH COAST RAILWAY.

THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY

Via CORK, BANTRY BAY, & GLENGARRIFF.

TOIIDICTO SHOULD ASK FOR THE
l\^wr\IOIO CIRCULAR TOUR TICKETS

BY THE

PRINCE ofWALES'

ROUTE

{THE TOURISTS' FAVORITE)

APPLICABLE VIA

MALLOW, or via CORK, BANTRY, & GLENGARRIFF.

X/IQITORQ ^^ IRELAND, and RESIDENTS IX

^ ■ Wl ■ wlmO IRELAND, contemplating a Tour to the
LAKES OF KILLARNEY, and travelling via Cork, should be careful to
proceed via BANTRY, ov-^er the exquisitely beautiful route chosen by HIS
MAJESTY THE KING, when Prince of Wales, which is now recognised
as the GRAND TOUR to KILLARNEY.

SALOON, LAVATORY, AND SMOKING CARRIAGES BETWEEN CORK AND BANTRY.

For full particulars see Illustrated Guide, Tourist Programmes, and
Time Tables, sent Post Free upon application to undersigned ; or apply
to Messrs. Cook & Son ; Gaze & Sons, Ltd. ; or of the Company's
London Office, 2 Charing Cross.

THIS IS THE ONLY ROUTE RUNNING THROUGH BANTRY

From the Cork Press. — "His Royal Highness and suite having selected the above
route, INDISPUTABLY stanips it as the most desirable and picturesque one for
Tourists."

Albert Quay Terminus, E. J. O'B. CEOEER,

Cork, Season 1902, General Manager.

92 LANCASHIRE AND YORKSHIRE, AND LONDON AND
NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAYS ROYAL MAIL ROUTE.

FLEETWOOD TO BELFAST

AND THE

Vq NORTH OF IRELAND. JJT

EVERY EVENING (SUNDAYS EXCEPTED).

In connection with the Iiancashire and Yorkshire, and
London and North- Western Railway Companies* Steamers,

^1^ " Duke of Corn vrall." " Duke of Lancaster."

pjf^' "Duke of York." "Duke of Clarence."

LEAVE FLEETWOOD FOR BELFAST

Every Evening (Sundays excepted), at 11.15 p.m., or after arrival of
trains from London, Birmingham, Hull, Newcastle, Bradford, Leeds,
Liverpool, Manchester, Preston, and all parts of the Kingdom ; returning

FROM BELFAST TO FLEETWOOD

Every Evening (Sundays excepted), at 8.30 p.m. (on Saturdays the Steamer
leaves at 10.30 p.m.), arriving in Fleetwood in time for early morning
trains to the above places.

During the Summer Season, special additional Steamers will sail from
Fleetwood to Belfast, and vice versa, by which Tourist and Excursion
Tickets will be available.

FARES.— (No Steward's Fee) Single Journey, Saloon, 12s. 6d. ;
Steerage, 6s. ; Returns available for two months. Saloon, 21s. ; Steerage,
8s. 6d. Through Tickets (single and return) are also issued from all the
principal Stations of the London and North-Western, Lancashire and York-
shire, North-Eastern, Great Western, Great Northern, and Great Central
Railway Companies, to Belfast, and vice versa.

SPECIAL TOURISTS' TICKETS AVAILABLE FOR TWO MOKTHS

Are issued during the Summer Season, via the Fleetwood Route, whereby Tourists
may visit all places of interest in the North of Ireland and Dublin. For particulars,
see the Lancashire and Yorkshire and London and North-Western Companies' Tourists
Programmes.

At Fleetwood the railway trains run alongside the steamers, and passengers'
luggage is carried from the train at the quay on board fkee of chakge.

Fleetwood is unrivalled as a steam packet station for the North of Ireland, and the
unexampled regularity with which the Belfast Line of Steamers have made the passage
between the two ports for more than forty years is probably without a parallel in
steamboat service, and has made this Route the most popular, as it is certainly the
most Expeditious and Desirable, for Passengers, Goods, and Merchandise, between
the great centres of commerce in England and the North and North-West of Ireland.

LONDONDERRY AND FLEETWOOD

Screw Steamships " ELM " or " GARDENIA."
From Derry, every Friday at 4 p.m.

Applications for State Rooms or Berths should be addressed to Captain J. E.
Jackson, Fleetwood ; Mr. A. T. Cotton, 20 Donegal Quay, Belfast ; Mr. J. A. Ferris,
7 Donegal Place, Belfast ; Mr. J. Nicholson, 26 Royal Avenue, Belfast.

For further information apply to the above, and also to S. Whitehall, District
Superintendent ; W. Smith, Goods Department, Fleetwood ; or to any L. & Y. or L. &
N. W. Station.

MISCELLANEOUS 93

Crown 8vo. Probable Price 3s. 6d. net. Bound in Cloth.

WHAT TO SEE
IN ENGLAND

A GUIDE TO

PLACES OF

HISTORIC

INTEREST

NATURAL

BEAUTY OR

LITERARY

ASSOCIATIONS

Gbl^DON-HOME

W///i abotd 1 50 illustrations specially drawn for the book by \

the Author^ and a Map. '

This book is intended to put in the smallest possible space the means by
which one may reach the chief places of interest in England. It will
possibly make many holidays, week-ends, or isolated days, more enjoyable
by placing a defined object before the rambler. Places within an hour or
two of London are in the front of the book, so that as one turns over the
pages one is taken further and further afield. The brief summary of the
interests of each place, and the many illustrations, may h6lp to memorise
the impressions obtained.

i?-te?^.*i^ Pubihhedby ? yd bloS

ADAM & CHARLES BLACK, a
SoHO Square, London.

94

SPORTING.

THE BEST SPORTING POWDERS.

SPORTING

BALLISTITE

(CONCENTRATED).

AND

EMPIRE

(BULK).

Sold by all Gunmakers and
Ammunition Dealers.

SPORTING. 96

J. WATSON LYALL & CO., LTD.
Shooting

and Agents,

Fishing

No. 118 PALL MALL, LONDON

(Next House to the Senior United Service Club).

THIS AGENCY, FOR THE

XetttrtQ anb Selling

OF

Scotch Deer Forests, Grouse Moors, Mansion Houses,
Low- Ground Shootings, Salmon Fishings, &c. &c..

Is one of the Largest and most important Agencies of
the kind in the Kingdom.

From Messrs. J. Watson Lyall & Co.'s extensive know-
ledge of Scotland, and their connection with it, they are in a
position to be of use to those who may entrust the Letting
and Selling of their Estates to them, and also to those who
wish to Rent or Purchase Deer Forests, Grouse Moors,
Mansion Houses, Low-ground Shootings, or Fishings, &c.

96

STEAMERS.

SPLENDID COASTING TOURS.

The neir and powerful Steamers (Electrically lighted) ol the Clyde Shipping Company, Limited, sail
from St. Katharinb Dock, London (near the Tower Bridge) for Greenock and Glasgow every Tuesday.
Thursday, and Saturday ; for Belfast every Tuesday and Saturday ; and for Waterford every Thursday.
Thursday's Steamer calls at Southampton (during Summer months) and Pl3rmouth.

SHORT SEA VOYAGES of a week's duration (calling at various ports) can be made every Tuesday,
Thursday, ai\d Saturday. Some sailings are so arranged that passengers can remain on board during
the round voyage, but in any case only one night ashore is necessary, thus minimising Hotel Bxpenses.
Eetum Saloon Fare, £2 : lOs.

Private 2 Berth Deck Ca6iw«— Single Journey, £5 : 5s. (per cabin) ; Return, £8 : Ss. State Cabins (4
Bertlu) for Families— Bing[6 Journey, £6 ; Return, £10.

LONDON AND DABTMOTJTH for Torquay, Totnes, the Elver Dart, etc. Grand Week End TrlpB
from London every Thursday, arriving at Dar1;month on Friday ; returning on Saturday afternoon,
and arriving in the Thames on Sunday afternoon. Saloon Fares, Single, I7s. 6d. ; Return, £1:7:6
(available during the Season). This route affords a favourable oxiportunity for families removing to
Seaside quarters on the Devon Coast. This service begins on 3rd July and ends on 4th September.

ISLE OF MAN.— From London, by Sea, every Tuesday and Saturday {via Belfast). Passengers pro-
ceed from Belfast per Isle of Man Steam Packet Company's Steamers to Peel Pier (daily, at 4 aft. Irish
time, during July and August), thence Rail to Douglas. Retm-n Fares, Saloon and Ist Class Rail, £3.
Or, London to Belfast, Feel, Douglas, Ardrossan, Glasgow, and Glasgow to London. Saloon and
1st Class Return, £3 : 5 : 8.

GRAND IRISH COASTING TOURS.— Embracing Portrush (for the unequalled Golf Links), Dublin,
Cork, Limerick, and the Western Highlands of Ireland.

The new Steamer " Valentia " leaves Cork every Tuesday for varioiu West Highland (Ireland)
Ports, returning on Sunday. Return Cabin Fare, £1:2:6.

Magnificent Mountainous Scenery.- The Company's Steamers take the route via South of England,
Land's End, Irish Channel, and the famous Firth of Clyde, to Glasgow.

SUPERIOR CUISINE. SALT WATER BATffS

For Hours of Sailing and Illustrated Guide (Free) apply to

CLYDE SHIPPING COMPANY, LIMITED,

138 Leadenhall Street, London, E.C.

Telegraphic Address—" Cumbkae, Lobtdon.'

DAVID HUNTER, Agent.

LONDON AND DUBLIN,

AND THE SOUTH OF ENGLAND.

The best route for Cornwall, Devon, Wilts, Sussex, Kent, Essex, Hants, and Surrey
and for the Scilly Islands, the Isle of Wight, the Channel Islands and France.
The British and Irish Steam Packet Company's large and powerful Steam-Ships,
fitted with electric light, and with superior passenger accommodation, and carrying
goods, horses, carriages, &c,, at moderate rates, leave LONDON and DUBLIN Twice a
Week (unless prevented by unforeseen occurrences), calling both ways at
PORTSMOUTH, SOUTHAMPTON, PLYMOUTH AND FALMOUTH
SAILING DAYS
?.'^?iH)\i ■ From liONDON: Sundays and Wednesdays.
' From DUBLIN : IK^ednesdays and Saturdays.

Passengers from London can embark the evening before sailing day without extra
charge, but must be on board not later than 10.0 p.m.

FARES FROM

1st CABIN.

tod CABIN.

DECK.

LONDON

Single.

Eetum.

Single.

Return.

Single. 1 Return.

s. d.

s. d.

s. d.

s. d.

s. d.

s. d.

To Portsmouth

10 6

16 6

6 6

10 0

4 0

6 0

,, Southampton
„ Plymouth .

11 0

17 0

7 0

10 6

4 6

6 6

15 0

24 0

11 0

17 6

7 0

11 0

„ Falmouth .

20 0

32 0

15 0

24 0

10 0

15 0

„ Dublin . .

25 0

88 6

17 6

27 0

11 0

17 0

Children from 3 to 12 years of age half fare. Return Tickets are available for three
months, and passengers are allowed to break the journey at intermediate ports. Pro-
visions are supplied on board at moderate rates. Private cabins can be reserved on
payment of extra charge, on early application being made for same.

London Offices:— 19 Leadenhall Street, E.C. JAMBS HARTLEY & Co., Agents.
Berth : North Quay, Eastern Basin, London Dock, near the Shadwell Stations, Great
Eastern and Metropolitan Railways. Chief Offices, Dublin ; 3 North Wall. Telegraphic
address ; Awe, Dublin. A. W. EGAN, Secretary.

STBAMBRS.

51

DELIGHTFUL STEAMER TRIPS THROUGH
90 MILES OF THAMES SCENERY.

SALOON STEAMERS run daily between OXFORD, HENLEY, and
KINGSTON, from 12th May to 4th October 1902.

DOWN TRIP.

Oxford, depart . . 9.30 a.m. 2.1.') p.m.

Wallingford, arrive about 1.40 p.m. 7.0:

,, depart ,, 2.40 9.0 a.m.

Henley, arrive about . 7.0 1.30 p.m.

depart ,, .9.50 a.m. 2.40

Windsor, arrive about . 1.45 p.m. 7.15

depart ,, . 2.40 9.15 a.m.

Kingston, arrive ,, . 7.10 1.30 p.m.

Kingston, depart
Windsor, arrive about

„ depart „

Henley, arrive „ .
depart ,, .
Wallingford, arrive about

depart ,,
Oxford, arrive about .

9.0 a.m.

2.30 p.m.

1.40 p.m.

7.15

2.40

9.15 a.m.

7.15

1.40 p.m.

9.0 a.m.

2.40

1.40 p.m.

7.15

2.40

9.0 a.m.

7.10

1.15 p.m.

The through journey occupies two days each way, but passengers can join or leave
the boat at any of the locks, or regular stopping.places. Circular Tickets for Combined
Railway and Steamer Trips are issued at most of the principal G.W.R. Stations,
and at Waterloo, Richmond, and King.ston Stations, L. & S.W.R. Time Table giving
full jjarticulars of arrangements, fares, etc., post free. Id.

Eowing Boats of all kinds for Excursions down the River
at Charges which include Cartage back to Oxford.

Full Particulars on application.

Steam and Electric Launches for Hire by the day or
Week, and also for the Trip.

Boats of every description, Canoes, Punts, etc., built to Order.

A large selection, both New and Second-hand, kept in readiness for Sale or Hire,

Illustrated Price Lists may be had on application.

House Boats for Sale or Hire, and also built to Order.

SALTER BROTHERS,

Boat Butl^ers,
POLLY BRIDGE, OXFORD,

98 STEAMERS.

M. LANGLANDS & SODS' Passenger and Cargo Steamers.

"PRINCESS MAUD." 1466 tons. Number of Berths In Staterooms 126.

"PRINCESS VICTORIA." 1249 ,, „ ,, 126.

"PRINCESS BEATRICE." 1146 ,, ,, ,, 104.

"PRINCESS LOUISE." 932 „ „ „ 50.

All having Cabins amidships, Electric Light, Hot and Cold Water Baths, etc., etc.
Besides the above there are others of smaller tonnage.

Services— GLASGOW, GREENOCK, & LIVERPOOL.

About four times a fortnight from each end, for Dates and Huurs see Bills and
Liverpool or Glasgow Daily Newspapers. Fares— Cabin, single, lis. ; return (available
for 2 months), 16s. 6d. Special Returns (available for 10 days), 14s. Steerage, single,
5s. 6d. ; return, 8s. 3d.

LIVERPOOL & NORTH OF SCOTLAND.

Departures every week— Calls are made at Oban, Kyle, Stornoway, Sthomnesb,
Aberdeen, LErm (for Edinburgh), and Dundee. Returning to Liverpool by same
route. The steamers sail among the islands of the West Highlands, and the scenery
passed en route is therefore some of the finest in Scotland.

ROUND GREAT BRITAIN (Without change Of steamer).

This tour is run fortnightly and occupies 12 days ; steamers start from Liverpool
and proceed north through the Western Isles, and call at Stromness, Aberdeen,
Newcastle, Hull, Southampton, Plymouth, etc., etc., then up to Liverpool.

Full particulars on application to—

{10 Rumford Place, Liverpool.
14 Cross Street, Manchester.
80 Constitution Street, Leith.
45 Hope Street, Glasgow.

LEITH AND LONDON.

THE LONDON & EDINBURGH
SHIPPING COMPANY'S First-Class
Steamships, FINGAL, lONA, MALYINA,
MARMION (all lighted by Electricity), or
other of the Company's Vessels, are intended to Sail (until further notice)
from VICTORIA DOCK, LEITH, every Wednesday, Friday, and
Saturday, and from HERMITAGE STEAM WHARF, WAPPING, E.
every Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday.

Fares. — First Cabin, including Steward's Fee, 22s. ; Second Cabin, 16s. ; Deck
(Soldiers and Sailors only), 10s. Return Tickets, available for 12 months (including
Steward's Fee both ways)— First Cabin, 34s. ; Second Cabin, 24s. 6d.

SS' Provisions, &c. , may he had from the Steward on moderate terms.
Not responsible for Passengers' Luggage, unless booked and paid for.

CHEAP CIRCnLAR TOUES round the Laud's Eud iu connection with Clyde Shipping Company's
Steamers— Fare, First Cabin, 47s. 6d. By Bristol Channel, in connection with Messrs. Sloan & Co.'s
Steamers — Fare, 1st Cabin, 35s. (Railway Fares extra.) Round the North of Scotland in connection
with Messrs. Langlands & Sons' Steamers to Liverpool— Fare, First Cabin, London to Liverpool, 608. By
British and Irish Steam Packet Company's Steamer to Dublin, thence via Silloth to Edinburgh,
returning by this Company's Steamer to London— Fares for the Round, .Saloon and First Class Rail,
52s. ; Saloon and Third Class Rail, 47s. By North of Scotland Steamers to Orkney and Shetland-
Return Fares to Kirkwall and Stromness, First Class, 60s. ; Second Class, 33s. To Lerwick and Scallo-
way, First Class, 67s. 6d. ; Second Class, 35s.

Apply in London to Londok & EDiNBanoH Shifping Company, Hermitage Steam Wharf, 'Wapping ;
M'DouGAiL & BoNTHBOK, 72 Mark Lane, B.C. ; Geor«k Mutch, 102 Queen Victoria Street, B.C. ;
G. W. Wheatley & Co., 23 Regent Street Edinburgh— Cowan & Co., 14 North Bridge. Glasgow-
Cow an & Co., 23 St. Vincent Place. Greenock— D. Maodougall, 1 Cross Shore Street; and to

THOHAS AITKBN, 8 & 9 Cohmep.ciai. Stbkkt, Leith.

STEAMERS. 99

ENGLAND AND NORTH OF IRELAND.

The best route is by the Direct Service of Express Steamers.

"MAGIC" (Twin Screw), "OPTIC," "COMIC" (Twin Screw).
"CALORIC," "MYSTIC" (Twin Screw), "LOGIC" (Twin Screw), &c.

Via lilYERPOOIi and BELFAST.

Open Sea Passage about Six Hours.

The Steamers of the Belfast Steamship Company are lighted by Electricity, aud are
fitted with every modern improvement for the comfort of Passengers. The Cabins are
amidships, the Saloon being on deck, with a spacious Promenade above.

From Liverpool (Prince's Landing Stage or Prince's Dock) for Belfast
— Daily (Sundays excepted) at 10.30 p.m.

From Belfast (Donegal Quay) for Liverpool — Daily (Sundays excepted)
at 8 p.m. ; Saturdays at 10.30 p.m.

Omnibuses await the arrival of the Steamer at Liverpool, to convey Through
Passengers and their Luggage to the Lime Street and Central Stations FREE of charge.
Omnibuses also leave the Lime Street and Central Stations every evening, in time to
convey all Through Passengers and their Luggage from all Districts to the Steamer
P^REE of charge.

Through bookings between all principal English Stations and Stations in the North
of Ireland at fares as cheap as any other route.

For Fares, Rates, and all particulars apply to H. H. Stevenson, 0 Brown Street,
Manchester ; Bklfast Steamship Company, Limited, 5 Chapel Street, Liverpool ;
or to The Head Oflace, Belfast Steamship Company, Limited, Belfast.

Telegraphic Address " Basalt, Belfast" ; "Afloat, Liverpool."

LONDON, SCARBOROUGirA?D MIDDLESBROUGH

THE Tees Union Shipping Company's (Limited) New Passenger Steamer "Claudia"
(fitted throughout with electric light, with handsome saloon accommodation, piano,
smoke-room, and every convenience for passengers) leaves Free Trade Wharf, Ratcliff,
London, E., every Saturday evening for Scarborough and Middlesbrough. Returning
from the Company's Wharf Middlesbrough to Scarborough and London every Wednesday.

The s.s. " Dione," carrying a limited number of passengers, leaves London every
Tuesday for Middlesbrough, and Middlesbrough every Saturday for London (Weather,
etc., permitting). Fares — Saloon, lis. 6d. ; Return, 17s. 6d. ; Fore Cabin, 7s. 6d. ;
Return, lis. 6d. Returns available for 3 months.

For full particulars apply— London, J. Greig, Free Trade Wharf; Scarborough,
Jno. Stephenson ; or to the Head Office, North Street, Middlesbrough.

CHRISTOPHER FORSTER, Secretary.

GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS.

WEEKLY CIRCULAR TOUR.
H^HB Favourite Steamer DUNARA CASTLE sails from Glasgow every Thursay at 2
-*- P.M., and from Greenock, West Quay, at 7 p.m., for Colonsay, lona, Bunessan, Tyree,
Barra, Uist, Skye, and Harris, returning to Glasgow on Wednesdays. Affords to Tourists
the opportunity of about a week's comfortable Sea Voyage, and at the same time a
Panoramic View of the magnificent scenery of the Western Isles.

Cabin Fare, £1 :15s., including Meals, £3 :5s.
Extended Tours to the Island of St. Kilda on special dates in June, July, and

August. Ret\xrn Cabin Fare, Including Meals, £4 : 4s.
Berths may be booked at the London Offices of the Carron Company, 87 Lower
East Smithfield, E.G., and 73 Great Tower Street, E.G.

Time Bills (with Maps) and Berths secured on application to

MARTIN ORMB, 20 Robertson Street, Glasgow.

100 STEAMERS.

CARRON LINE.

SCOTLAND AND LONDON.

Four Sailings lYeekly.

The splendid steamers "Avon," "Grange," "Forth," and "Thames" (which
have been specially built for the service, and are all lighted by electricity), or other
steamers, are expected to sail, unless prevented by unforeseen circumstances.

From Grangemouth for London every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
From Bo'ness for London every Monday. From London for Grangemouth every
Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday. From London for Bo'ness every Thursday.
Trains run alongside the Steamers at Grangemouth.

The only route by which passengers can obtain a perfect view of the Forth Bridge,
tlie steamers of this Line sailing underneath.

Fares: Glasgovr and London. Single. Return.
First Cabin, including Ist Class Rail . . . 26s. 39s.

„ „ 3rd ,, ... 24s. 35s.

Second Cabin „ 3rd „ ... 17s. 6d. 26s. 6d.

Soldiers and Sailors on Deck, and 3rd Glass Rail . 12s.
Grangemouth or Bo'ness and I<ondon.

First Cabin . , 22s. 34s.

Second Cabin 16s. 248.

Soldiers and Sailors on Deck 10s.

Return Tickets available for Two Months.
Circular Tours, Glasgow to London, returning by Clyde Shipping Co.'s Steamers ; alsc
to Bristol, Dublin, Belfast, and Isle of Man, etc. Each steamer carries a Stewardess.

For Berths, Guide-books (free), and all information apply in Lohdon at Carron and London an<i
Continental Wharves, 87-93 Lower East Smithfleld, E. ; City Office, 73 Great Tower Street ; in
Glasgow, at Carron Company's Offices, 125 Buchanan Street ; in Edinburgh, to T. Cook & Soic, {
Princes Street, or J. & H. Lindsay, 18 South St. Andrew Street ; and at Carron Company's OflSces,
Gbanoemouth.

DUNDEE AND LONDON.

THE Dundee, Perth, and London Shipping Company's splendid Steamship,*
"DUNDEE," "PERTH," and "LONDON," or other of the Company's Vessels,
will sail (weather, casualties, and strikes excepted) every Wednesday and Saturday fron
Dundee Wharf, Limehouse, E., and from Dundee every Wednesday and Saturday.

Fares. — First Cabin, including Steward's Fees, 22s. 6d. ; Return Tickets, availablf
for Twelve Months, 35s. Second Cabin, 15s. ; Return Tickets, 22s. 6d. Children, 3 U
14, half-fare. Passengers can secure berths in London at G. W. Wheatley & Co.';-
Office, 23 Regent Street, W. ; Company's City Office, 75 Great Tower Street ; and or
application to James Mitchell, Dundee Wharf, Three Colt Street, Limehouse, E.

CIRGUIiAR TOURS.

Dundee, London, and Glasgow.— By this Company's Steamers between Dundee anc
London, and by Clyde Shipping Company's Steamers between London and Glasgow,
calling at several intermediate English and Irish ports. Fare, First Cabin, 47s. 6d,
The railway fare between- Glasgow and Dundee (First Class, 14s. ; Tliird Class, 6s. lO^d.
is not included, passengers being thus at liberty to travel through Scotland by anj
route they may choose. This route may be reversed.

Dundee, London, and Grangemouth.— Return Tickets are available by the Carroi
Company's Steamers, London to Grangemouth, tlience by rail to Dundee, or vice versa
at the following fares : — First Cabin and First Class Rail, 45s, ; Second Cabin anc
Third Class Rail, 27s. 6d.

Dundee, Bristol, and Glasgow.— By this Company's Steamers between Dundee auc
London, and by Messrs. William Sloan & Co.'s Steamers between Bristol and Glasgow
calling at several intermediate ports. Fare, First Cabin, 37s. 6d., exclusive of all Fare.'
for Rail parts of the journey, which are London and Bristol (First Class, 20s. lOd.
Third Class, 9s. lO^d.); Glasgow and Dundee (First Class, 14s. ; Third Class, 6s. lO^d.)
This route may be reversed.

Further particulars can be obtained at the Company's Office, 5 Shore Terrace.

JAMES W. KIDD, Manager.

STEAMERS. ]01

ABERDEEN AND LONDON.

THE ABERDEEN STEAM NAVIGATION GO.'S STEAMSHIPS

HOGARTH, CITY OF LONDON, or CITY OF ABERDEEN,

will be despatched (weather, etc., permitting)—

Prom ABERDEEN, 87 Waterloo Quay, every Wednesday and Saturday.

From LONDON, Aberdeen Wharf, Limehouse, every Wednesday and Saturday.

The Steamers are fitted up in First-Class style— Ladies' Saloon, and Smoking Room

an Deck— Electric Light throughout— Time on Passage 36 hours.

The Company's steam tender ♦ Ich Diew ' attends the Steamers on their arrival in London
tor the purpose of conveying Passengers to the Temple Pier, Thames Embankment ;
jhe also leaves that Pier with Passengers for the Steamers one hour before the adver-
tised time of sailing from Limehouse.

Paees — Private CabiTis accommodating four passengers .... £6.
Private Cabins, if occupied by fewer than four passengers . £5.
Single Tickets — 1st Cabin, 30s. ; 2nd Cabin, 15s. ; Children under 14 years, 15s. and lOs.
Return Ticfcete- available for six months — 45s. and 258. ; Children, 25s. and 15s,

A Stewardess carried in both First and Second Cabins.

Berths secured and further information obtained on application to Georgb
Mutch, Agent, The Aberdeen Steam Navigation Co.'s Wharf, Limehouse; and
it 102 Queen Victoria Street, B.C., London ; or to

WILLIAM A. MALCOLM,
Manager, Aberdeen.

SCOTLAND AND IRELAND.

ROYAL MAIL LINE.

QUICKEST, Clieapest, and Best Route between all parts of Scotland
and the North of Ireland.

Mail Service twice every evening (Sundays excepted) to and from
ill parts of Ireland via Belfast ; and all parts of Scotland, via Glasgow,
na Greenock, and via Ardrossan.

DAYLIGHT SERVICE DURING SUMMER SEASON.

Glasgow to Belfast and back same day, by "Adder" from Ardrossan.
\lso Steamers between —

Glasgow and Manchester, three times weekly.

Glasgow and Liverpool (calling at Greenock). Fast and commodious
lew steamers "Spaniel "and "Pointer." Cheap Excursion Fares. Five
lailings in the fortnight during the winter months, and three times weekly
luring the summer season. See newspaper advertisements.

Glasgow and Londonderry (calling at Greenock). Twice weekly.

For full details see Advertisements and Sailing Bills, or apply to

G. & J. BURNS,

Glasgow, Belfast, Londonderry, Manchester, and Liverpool.

102 * STEAMERS.

■^^LOCH-LOMOND. ^^^^

^' ^* "QUEEN OF SCOTTISH LAKES."

The Dumbarton and Balloch Joint Line Committee's First-
Class Saloon Steamers sail from Balloch Pier, calling fre-
quently at all Loch-Lomond Piers, also in connection with
Trossaehs Tours, Loch - Lomond and Loch - Long Tours,
Trossaehs and Aberfoyle Tours, Trossaehs and Callander
Tours, &c. &e.

The most direct and picturesque route to Oban and Fort-
William, via Loch Lomond, Ardlui, and Crianlarich.

For Train and Steamboat hours see North British and
Caledonian Eailway Time Tables ; apply to both Companies'
Stationmasters, or to Wm. J. Fraser, Secretary and Manager,
21 Hope Street, Glasgow.

INTERESTING AND POPULAR

FLEASTJEE EXCURSIONS

BY COACH, STEAMER, & TRAIN,

During June^ July, August, cmd September 1902.

OBAN to OBAN and LOOHAWB to LOOHAWB.

Via Pass of Melfort, Lochawe, and Pass of Brander,

at the base of Ben Cruachan.

BY Coach leaving M'Gregor's Coach Office on Mondays, Wednesdays,
and Fridays at 9.45 a.m. by way of Lochfeochan, Pass of Melfort,
Loch Craignish, Carnasary Castle, and Ford, where Passengers join the
Steamer "Countess of Breadalbane" for Lochawe Station; thence pei
Train due to arrive in Oban at or about 6.30 p.m. ; and on Tuesdays,
Thursdays, and Saturdays by Train leaving Oban about 9.40 a.m. foi
Lochawe Station, thence per Steamer ** Countess of Breadalbane " to Fordj
and from Ford by Coach due to reach Oban about 6.30 p.m.

Fares/or the Round: — First Class, 15s. 6d. ; Third Class, 14s. Coach
driver'* and Guard's Fees not included.

Passengers Booked at Lochawe Hotel, and at Coach Office and
Railway Station, Oban.

- SCENERY SURPASSING GRAND.

STEAMERS. 103

SUMMER TRIPS ROUND SCOTLAND

VIA WEST HIG-HLANDS.

THE well-known Steamers "Princess Maud," "Princess Victoria,"
"Princess Beatrice," "Princess Ena," "Princess Louise," and
"Princess Irene," leave Liverpool twice a week ma Oban, and West and
Northern Highlands of Scotland, for Aberdeen, Leith, and Dundee, call-
ing occasionally at Kyleakin, Broadford, Gairloch, Lochinver, Stornoway,
Stromness, Loch Eriboll, and Inverness. Regular sailings between Liver-
pool and Glasgow, also Manchester and Glasgow. Full particulars from
M. LANGLANDS & SONS, 10 Rumford Place, Liverpool.

LEITH to ABERDEEN, BUCKIE, LOSSIEMOUTH (Mlgin), BURGHEAD (for
Forres), CROMARTY, INYERGORDON (for Strathpeffer), and INVERNESS.

S.S. EARNHOLM leaves Leith every Monday, and Aberdeen every Tuesday, for
Buckie, Lossiemouth, Cromarty, Invergorden, and Inverness : leaves Inverness
every Thursday for Cromarty, Invergorden, Aberdeen, and Leith. S.S. JAMES
HALL leaves Leith every Tlmrsday (and every Tuesday to Aberdeen only), and
Aberdeen every Friday for Burghead, Cromarty, Invergordon, and Inverness :
leaves Inverness every Monday for Cromarty, Invergordon, Aberdeen, and Leith.
S.S. SILVER CITY leaves Leith for Aberdeen every Saturday. S.S. EARNHOLM.
or S.S. JAMES HALL leaves Aberdeen for Leith every Tuesday, Wednesday, and
Friday. FARES MODERATE.

For further particulars apply to the Manager of The Aberdeen, Leith, and Moray
Forth Steam Shipping Co., Limited, JAMES CROMBIE, Trinity Buildings, Aberdeen,
or to M. LANGLANDS & SONS, 80 Constitution Street, Leith.

GLASGOW & THE WEST highlands;

WEEKLY CIRCULAR TOURS BY THE
Splendid new Steamer. H IJ'RR'PTri'RQ" Superior Accommodation.

Lighted by Electricity. n.JZ, JDr\.ll-f iiO Bathroom, etc.

From GLASGOW at 2 p.m. TrVTTPV MOl^'n A V From GREENOCK at 6.15 p.m.
Berth 42, North Side. J^ ^ ^-^ ^ lViUi> UJ\. 1 Customhouse Quay.

For Islay, Colonsay, Oban, Mull, Coll, Tiree, Rum, West of Skye, North and
South Uist, Barra, etc., aft'ords the Tourist a splendid opportunity of viewing the
rnagnidcent scenerv of the West of Skye and the Outer Islands.

Cabin for the Round, from 35s. ; Board included, from 65g.

ISLAND OF ST. BlILDA.— During the Season extended trips are made to this most

interesting and romantic Island, when passengers are given facilities (W.P.) for landing.

Cabin on St. Kilda Trips, from 50s. ; Board included, from 84s.

Time Billx, Maps of Route, Cabin Plans, and Berths secured at

JOHN M'CALLUM & CO., 10 Ann St., City, Glasgow.

GALWAY BAY STEAMBOAT CO., LIMITED.

THE cheapest, shortest, and most enjoyable route for tourists from England, Dublin,
and the North of Ireland, to the beautiful scenery on the West Coast of Ireland,
is by the Midland Great Western Railway, Dublin to Galway ; and thence per new
steamer "Duras," to the Islands of Aran, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.

For Ballyvaughan in connection with the far-famed Spa, Lisdoonvama, every
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday during summer.

These sailings are subject to alteration. For correct dates see monthly Time Tables.

For further particulars apply to Manager, Midland Great Western Railway, Broad*
stone, Dublin ; or to James A. Grant, Secretary, 19 Eyre Square, Galway

104

STEAMERS.

BrlM & Irish Steam Packet Co., Ltd.

GRAND HOLIDAY SEA TR

g^ (Magnificent Coast Scenery)

BETWEEN

PS

LONDON AND DUBLIN

AND THE

SOUTH OF ENGLAND.

The best route for Cornwall, Devon, Wilts, Sussex, Kent, Essex, Hants, and Surrey
and for the SOILLY ISLANDS, the Isle of WigM, the Channel Islands and France.

THE COMPANY'S LARGE AND POWERFUL STEAM-SHIPS

Fitted with electric light, and with superior accommodation for Passengers, leave
London and Dublin twice a week, calling both ways at Portsmouth, Southampton,
Plymouth, and Falmouth.

FLEET:
Lady Roberts . . . 1462 Tons.

Lady Wolseley .... 1450 Tons I Lady Martin 1352 Tons

Lady Hudson-Kinahan . 1375 „ | Lady Olive 1103 ,,

SAILING \ From London— Sundays and Wednesdays.
DAYS / From Dublin— Wednesdays and Saturdays.

PAsaKBTGEK Fares (Stewauds' Fkes
Included) between

LONDON and PORTSMOUTH .
„ SOUTHAMPTON

PLYMOUTH .
„ FALMOUTH .

DUBLIN .

Ist Cabin.
Single, j Return.

2nd Cabin.
Single. I Return.

S. d. I S.

10 6 I 16

11 0 I 17
15 0 i 24
20 0 I 32
25 0 I 38

Deck.
Single. I Return.

Passengers may contract for Provisions during the voyage at prices as published in
the Company's Sailing Bills. Circular Tours from South of England Ports to Conne-
mara and West of Ireland, in connection with Midland Great Western Railway of
Ireland, via Clifden, Westport, Letterfrack, and Leenane, from 1st June to 30th
September, Splendid Scenery. Excellent Salmon and Trout Fishing. Tickets avail-
able for two months,

Scilly Islands.— Passengers for these charming Islands land at Falmouth and travel
via Penzance.

Children from 3 to 12 years old, half fare. Return Tickets are available for three
months, and Passengers are allowed to break the journey at intermediate ports. Pro
visions supplied on board at moderate rates.

Private Cabins can be reserved on payment of extra charge, on early application
being made for same.

Passengers from London can embark the evening before sailing day without extra
charge, but must be on board not later than 10 p.m.

Illustrated Handbook free by post on application.

Special Cheap Excursion Tickets, 1st and 2nd Cabin, available for 16 days, are
issued between any two of the following ports :— Portsmouth, Southampton, Plymouth,
Falmouth, or Dublin, at a single fare and a quarter.

Through Bookings to the Channel Islands and France from Dublin.

Full information as to Sailings, etc, can be obtained from James Hartley & Co.,
19 Leadenhall Street, London, E.C., and North Quay, Eastern Basin, London Docks,
Shad well, E. (where the vessels lie), or from any of the following Agents : R. Clark &
Son, or H. J. Waring & Co., Millbay Pier, Plymouth ; W. & E. C. Carne, Market Street,
Falmouth ; Le Peuvre & Son, 8 Gloucester Square, Southampton : J. M. Harris, 10
Broad Street, Portsmouth ; and Thos Cook & Son, Dublin and London ; Carolin
& BoAN, 30 Eden Quay, Dublin, Chief Offices— 3 North Wall, Dublin. Telegraphic
4.ddres?e§—"4.\yE," Dublin; "BifERAi^D," Lopdoij. A. W. EG Al!f, Secretary,

STEAMERS. 105

GiTY OF DUBLIN STEAM PACKET
COMPANY

ROYAL MAIL ROUTE q j. ^^ ^ 1 1 .^, J^

BETWEEN

ENGLAND & IRELAND

TWICE EACH WAY DAILY

via HOLYHEAD & KINGSTOWN

Sea Passage — 2 Hours 45 Minutes

First, Second, and Third Class Rail and Saloon
and Second Class Steamer

Through Fares between English and Irish Stations and Through
Communication between Kingstown and the interior of Ireland

LIVERPOOL ac DUBLIN

DAILY

Cabin, Singk, 13s. 6cl. ; Return, 21s. (available for 2 months)
Deck, Do. 4s. ; Do. 6s. 6cl. Do.

Cabin Excursion Tickets available for i6 days are issued
jvery Friday and Saturday at Single Fares for the Double
lourney. Deck, 5s. ^______

Through Fares with Great Southern and Western and
Midland Great Western Railway Stations

^or further particulars apply to —

15 EDEN QUAY, DUBLIN

ALFRED J. CALLAGHAN,

Secretary.

106 ^ STEAMERS.

mi «°"''^^™;'«- lOYTi-a

Scotland

WITH

Holland, Belgium, tt North of France.

REGULAR WEEKLY SAILINGS

FROM

ALBERT DOCK, LEITH (Edinburgh),

To ROTTERDAM, AMSTERDAM, HARLINGEN. ANTWERP, GHENT
TERNEUZEN, DUNKIRK, and CALAIS.

Also DUNDEE and ROTTERDAM. j jg©^

FIRST-CLASS FAST STEAMERS. Electric Light. '

FARES— CABIN, 25s. Single ; 40s. Return. Steerage 10s.

ViOTUALLiNQ ExTRA at Moderate Rates.
For Full Information apply to

GEORGE GIBSON & CO., Leith, Glasgow, or Dundee. ,"

WEST HARTLEPOOL AND HAMBURG.

The Fine Swift Steamers, "KAISER," "SPRITE," and other Steamers.
Leave WEST HARTLEPOOL every Wednesday and Satur-
day ; returning from HAMBURG every Tuesday and Friday
(weather and. casualties excepted). These Steamers are fitted with every
Comfort for Passengers^ and carry Steward and Stewardess. First
Cabin— Single Pare, 30s.; Return, 35s., May 1st to Oct.
31st; Nov. 1st to April 30th, 30s. and 45s.

For further information apply to The West Hartlepool Steam
Navigation Company, Limited, West Hartlepool.

THE ABERDEEN LINE OF DIRECT STEAMERS.

LONDON tcTPORT NATAL.

DELAGOA BAY, INHAMBANE, BEIRA, CHINDE,
QUILIMANE, AND EAST AFRICAN PORTS.

S.S. MATABELE I S.S. IFAFA I S.S. INCHANGA l S.S. INSIZWA

S.S. INANDA S.S. ILLOVO j S.S. INYATI | S.S. INKOSI

S.S. INDUNA I S.S. INYONI S.S. INGELI !

FORTNIGHTLY SAILINGS from London, calling at Portland, and TenerifTe

and Las Palmas alternatively.
These aplendid Steamers have very fine acoommodatioii for 1st and 2nd Class Passengers, and are well
found in every respect. The Cabins are unusually spacious, and elegantly fitted up with all requisites,
and are lit throughout with Electric Light. Surgeon and Stewardess carried. Passengers are specially
invited to inspect the accommodation of these vessels. For Freight or Passage apply to J. T. RENNIE,
SON, & CO., 4 East India Avenue, E.G. ; SEWELL & CROWTHER, Cockspur Street, S.W. ; J. T.
BBNNIB & SON, 48 Marischal Street. Aberdeen ; J. T. RENNIE & SONS, Durban.

STEAMERS.

107

"ANCHOR" LINE
Services.

GLASGOW & NEW YORK,

Via Londonderry
(Moville)—
Weekly.

^'° v*^^:..^<^'

,0.^^-'''

tN^^

«.<^'

^\«-*

y«.?.tr ^w& % sv<^* ^,^>>^ Mediterranean

v*<>^° J^>and NEW YORK,

'' Calling at Marseilles, Genoa,

Leghorn, Naples, Messina, Palermo, Gibraltar,
and other Ports. Fortnightly sailings each way.

For terms of Freight, Passage, or other information, apply to

ANCHOR LINE (Henderson Brothers) LIMITED,

GLASGOW, LIVERPOOL, LONDON, MANCHESTER, DUNDEfl,
LONDONDERRY. GIBRALTAR,

108

8TEAMERP.

LAMPORT & HOLT LINE.

■OIRST-CLASS CARGO STEAMERS, with comfortable accommodation for a limited
■*- number of SALOON PASSENGERS, are despatched at regular and frequent
intervals from

LIVERPOOL, LONDON, GLASGOW, MANCHESTER, AND ANTWERP,

DIRECT TO

BRAZIL, RIVER PLATE,

ICA.

AJO

WEST COAST OF SOUTH AMERI

Also Superior Passeiiger Steamers from

NEW YORK °Vl^cif5?o??Si°^ FOR BRAZIL k RIVER PLATE.

Fitted with Electric Light, Refrigerator, and all modern comforts.

Children under Twelve Years of age are carried at a reduced rate. Families and
Servants taken by special agreement.

Arrangement can be made on advantageous terms, with the option to Passengers of
breaking the journey at any intermediate Port, and of proceeding to their destination
by one of the Company's succeeding Steamers. Also of making the round voyage by
way of New York.

Apply, in GLASGOW, to P. Henderson & Co., 15 St. Vincent Place, or to Bell
Brothers & M'Lelland, 135 Buchanan Street; iu BIRMINGHAM, to T. Heymann,
5 Victoria Square ; in ANTWERP, to Kennedy, Hunter, & Co. ; in PARIS, to J. M.
CuRRiE, 36 Rue d'Hauteville ; in NEW YORK, to Busk & Jevons ; or to Lamport &
Holt, 21 Water Street, LIVERPOOL ; or York Buildings, York Street, MANCHESTER ;
OT 36 Lime Street, LONDON, E.G.

DOMINION LINE.

ROYAL AND UNITED STATES MAIL STEAMERS.

REGULAR SAILINGS
BETWEEN

LIVERPOOL & BOSTON

(VIA QUEENSTOWN).

LIVERPOOL, QUEBEC, & MONTREAL -*
(DIRECT). -f

LIVERPOOL & PORTLAND, Me.

(DIRECT).

GENOA, NAPLES,
GIBRALTAR and BOSTON.

ALSOBETWEEN

ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT,
and BOSTON.

FARES.

Saloon, Second Saloon, and Tliird Class
at lowest rates.

For further particulars apply to RICHARDS, MILLS, & CO.,
Managers, 24 James Street, Liverpool, or to any of their local Agents.

STEAMERS, ETC.

109

UNITED STEAMSHIP CO. OF COPENHAGEN.

Quick Route to Copenhagen.

And all Parts of DENMARK, NORWAY, and SWEDEN.

By REGULAR STEAMERS in coiuiectiou with the Great Eastern Railway
Gonipauy, via Harwich (Parkestnn Quay) and Esbjerg.
The Fine Steamers "J. C. LAGOUR," 2000 Tons, 3600 H.P. indicated, and "N. J.
FJORD," 1500 Tons, 2000 H.P. indicated, or other of the Company's Fine Steamers,
will run as under, weatlier and other circumstances permitting—
(Sea Yoyage about 23 Hours.)
PARKESTON QUAY for ESBJERG, ESBJERG for PARKESTON QUAY.

Every Monday, Thursday, and Saturday Every Tuesday, Wednesday, and Satur-

about 9 45 P.M. after arrival of Train ; any. Steamers leave after arrival of the
leaving Liverpool Street Station at 7.15 , n k . ^, <^..oj.. f..^„, r'^rv^r.v.o^o,, „^, er,^„
i-.M. Passengers from the North should ^"^ ^•^- ^^^^" ^^^ Copenhagen as soon
arrive at Parkeston at 9.30 r.M. > as the tides permit.

FARES.

SINGLE.

RETURN, available for (50 Days.

1 1st Rail , *2nd Rail
and Saloon, i and Saloon.

1st Rail
and Saloon.

»2nd Rail
and Saloon.

LOxNDOxN to COPKNHAGEN £2 11 5 £2 3 11

London to Esb-jerg . . 1 17 (5 1 15 0

Saloon
Harwich to Esbjerg . £] 10 0 1

£4 3 9
2 16 3
Saloon.

£2 5 0

£3 10 6
2 13 0

..

Esbjerg— Copenhagen, 3rd Glass Single, 58. | *

3rd Class Rail in England.

For full particulara, Pamphlet, and Tickets, apply to XEGNER, PRICE & CO. , 107 Fenchorch Street,
London, E.C. ; or to C. BUSK, Continental Traffic Manager, Great Eastern Railway, Liverpool
Street Station, London, E.C.

POCKKT FlI.TKR.

CAUTION!

Every Traveller should guard
against Typhoid and other water-
borne diseases

By securing one of the
following: —

A POCKET FILTER (4/6 and 6/- each), a
TRAVELLERS' FILTER, Germ-proof (8/6) or a
GERM-PROOF PUMP FILTER (40/-)

(Large enough for Family or Party).

J3V\

Travellers' Filter

To be had only of the

WATER PURIFYING COMPANY, LTD., 157 STRAND, LONDON,

Aquarius powder for rendering hard water soft. Sample free.

110 TOURS AND CRUISES.

All who TRAVBI4 OP SBTTLB ABROAD should
consult the Publications of

SEWELL & GROWTHER.

SPECIAL PROGRAMME OF

''Summer Tours and Cruises for 1902,"

Giving particulars of a large number of Conducted and Independent Tours to all parts.
Sent Free for Twopence Postage,

Travel Tickets, both Single and Return and Circular
Tours, issued in advance at Companies' Rates.

HOTEL COUPONS

supplied, available at 800 of the principal Hotels at Home and
on the Continent, at 7/-, 8/6, and 1 0/6 per day.

SEWELL & CROWTHER'S
"Quarterly Yacht Register."

Contains particulars of upwards of 800 Steam and Sailing Yachts, Launches, and
House Boats for Sale or Hire. Also Racing Fixtures for 1901, and other useful Yacht-
ing Information. Special list of Steam and Sailing Yachts of all tonnage for hire in
the Mediterranean, sent gratis.

Marine Insurance effected at Special Rates.

SEWELL & CROWTHER'S

" Shipping Guide "

To all parts of the World, contains Sailings of all lines from the United Kingdom,
Rates of Passages, etc., etc., etc.

SEWELL & CROWTHER'S

Baggage Forwarding Department

For Collecting and Forwarding Personal Luggage and Goods to all parts of the World.
Goods stored for any length of time and insured at Lowest Rates.

Tickets and all further information may be obtained at the offices of

SEWELL & CROWTHER,

153 FENCHURCH STREET, LONDON, E.G.,

Telegraph Address—Polynesian. Telephone— 163 1 Avenue.

18 COCKSPUR STREET, S.W.,
and 11 ONSLOW PLACE, SOUTH KENSINGTON, S.W.

TRAVEL TRAVEL REQUISITES. Ill

ViTORLD TRAVEL.

Organised by HENRY 8. LUNN, M.D., F.R.G.8.,
W. H0LD8W0RTH LUNN & CONNOP F. 8. PEROWNE.

% CRUISES

On the Magnificent Ocean Yacht " ARO-ONAUT."

Tonnage, 3273 ; H.P., 4000. Electric Light. First-Class Cuisine.

Autumn, Winter and Spring Cruises to the Mediterranean,

Including The Riviera, Naples, Sicily, Algiers, Malta, Greece,

Constantinople, Smyrna, Palestine, Egypt, Etc.

Summer and Autumn Cruises to the Baltic,
Including the NORTHEBN CAPITALS OF EUROPE,

St. Petersburg, Stockholm & Copenhagen.

£11 :11s.. £12 :12s. and £16 : 16s. CRUISES to the NORWEGIAN FJORDS and
NORTH CAPE.

These CruLses are under the auspices of the "Co-operative Cruising Company, Limited."

£10: 10s., £11 : lis., £13 : 13s. and £14 : 14s. TOURS TO ROME via the Mont Cenis

and St. Gothard Routes. With Extensions to Naples, Florence, Venice, etc.
TOURS to FLORENCE and VENICE, visiting Lucerne, Lugano, and Milan.
£9 : 9s. and £7 : 10s. TOURS to CHAMONIX and to GRINDELWALD.
£6 : 6s. TOURS to GENEVA and to LUCERNE.
Extensions to Zermatt, The Oberland, The Engadine, The Tyrol, and The Italian

TOURS to BERCHTESGADEN for the BAVARIAN HIGHLANDS, THE TYROL,
and the SALZKAMMERGUT.

All Tours oan be prolonged. Pagsengers return independently.

Tickets supplied to all parts to passengers travelling independently, and passages
booked by all principal Steamship Companies.

Full particulars from the SECRETARY,

_ 5 ENDSLEIGH GARDENS, EUSTON, LONDON, N.W.

TENTSl TENTSTT

SUITABLE for Gardens, Cricket or Camping-Out purposes, 40 feet in circumference,
with pegs, poles, mallet, and lines complete ^with tent bag included). These tents
are white, and have only been used a little by His Majesty's Government, and origin-
ally cost over £6 each. I will send one complete for 30s. Can be sent on approval.

N.B.—I have a quantity of tents from 208. to 80s., but the tents which please my
customers best are those I send out at 30s. each,

Gakdenkrs, protect the buds, or you will have no fruit ; garden netting, 35 square
yards for Is., sent any width, carriage paid on all orders oVer 5s.— H. J. Gasson,
Garden Net "Works, Rye.

Price lilst of Marquees (any^ize) post free.

HENRY JOHN CASSON, Government Contractor, Rye, Sussex.

112 M , MISCELLANEOUS.

/^^•nrtlQtr TRADE m»iSE "*^^- ^^

THE LEADING HOUSE

FOK

FASHIONS IN FURS.

Finest Qualities.

Lowest Prices.

Exclusive and Origrinal
Desig-ns.

SPECIAL FACILITIES FOR

STORING- AND PRESERVING FURS FROM MOTH

DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS.

163 & 165 REGENT STREET,

LONDON, W. ^^^^

BOATINQ rlSHIKG.

113

BERTHON

PORTABLE BOATS AND CANOES,

For Yacht and Steam Launch Dinghies^ Fishing and
Shooting Funts.

A LARGE VARIETY AT THE NEW LONDON SHOW-ROOM

50 HOLBORN VIADUCT, E.G.

7 -ft. Fishing Boat, Price £8 Complete.

14 Prize Medals awarded, including 2 Gold Medals and
Special Prize for Best Portable Boat at the International
Fisheries Exhibition 1883, and Gold Medals at the Calcutta
International Exhibition 1884, Edinburgh Exhibition 1886,
and Eoyal Naval Exhibition 1891.

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES AND PRICE LISTS FREE ON APPLICATION.

BERTHON BOAT COMPANY, LIMITED.— WORKS: ROMSEY, HANTS.

8

114 MTSCELLANEOUS.

Homeland Handbooks

FOR THE HOLIDAYS.

' "' Postage 2(i. All Prices are Nett. cioth. Pap

No. " s. d. s.

1. Tonbridge for the Angler, the Holiday-Maker, and the Resident.

By Stanley Martin and Prescott Row 10 0

2. Tunbridge Wells of To-Day. By Stanley Martin and Prescott Row 10 0

3. "London Town." By Eric Hammond. With map . . . .10 0

4. "Lyonesse": The Isles of Scilly. (1902), with Introduction by

tiio late Sir Walter Besant 10 0

5. "Wolfe-Land" : The West erham District, Kent. Second Edition

(1000), with map. By Gibson Thompson. With Introduction ])y
Lieut.-Col. Warde, D.L., .T.P,, of Squerryes Court . . . '.10 0
G. "Kent's Capital": Maidstone. Second Edition (1900), with map.

By Stanley Martin and Prescott Row .10 0

7. Croydon, New and Old. Second Edition (1901), with Map. By

Edward A. Martin, F.G.S., and J. B. Morris, B.A. . . ".16 0

8. Dartmoor and its Surroundings. Second Edition (1901), with

maps. By Beatrix F. Cresswell 16 0

0. Rochester and Chatham with Pen and Camera. Second Edition

(1901), with map. By A. G. Munro, B.A 16 0

10. The Holmesdale Towns : Reigate and Redhill. By T. Francis W.

Hamilton. With map 100

11. "Surrey's Capital": Guildford and District. Second Edition

(1901), with map. By J. E. Morris, B.A. ..... 1 6 0

12. Dulverton and District: The Country of the Wild Red Deer.

Second Edition (1901), Cloth Edition contains map. By F, J.

Snell, B.A 100

13. Farnham and its Surroundings. By Gordon Home. (1902), with

Introduction by Edna Lj'all 2 0 1

14. Godalming and its Surroundings. (1900), with map. By T.

Francis W. Hamilton 160

15. Teignmoath and its Surroundings. (1901), with map By Beatrix

F. Cresswell '..160

16. Sunny Days at Hastings and St. Leonards. (1901), with maps.

By W. H. Sanders 16 0

17. Epsom and its Surroundings. (1902), with map. By Gordon

Home. With a Prefatory Note by "A. R.' 16 0

18. Minehead. Porlock and Dunster: The Sea-board of Exmoor.

(1902), Cloth Edition contains map. By C. E. Larter . . .16 0

19. Cranbrook ; The Town of the Kentish Weald. Second Edition

(1902), with map. By Stanley Martin 16 0

20. Dawlish and the Estuary of the Exe. (1902), Cloth Edition

contains map. By Beatrix F. Cresswell 10 0

21. St. Albans: Its Abbey and its Surroundings. With map. By

C. H. Ashdown, F.R.G.S., F.C.S 2 6 1

22. Bromley and the Bromley Distr.ct, Beckenham and Chislehurst.

By George Clinch, F.G.S. With an Introduction by Philip

Norman, F.S.A. With map 2 6 1

23. Exeter. By Beatrix Cresswell. With plan 10 0

24. Kingston and Surbiton. By Dr. Finny. With map . . .26 1

25. Petworth and its Surroundings. By L. C. Barnes. Cloth Edition

contains map 100

26. Haslemere and Hindhead. By J. E. Morris. With map . .26 1

Week-Ends in Dickens' Land. With map — 0

Week-Ends in Hop Land. W^ith map — 0

July, 1902. Many other Towns and Districts are in active preparation.

Of all Booksellers, or from the Publishers—

THE HOMELAND ASSOCIATION for the Encouragement of Touring in

Great Britain, 24 Bride Lane, Fleet Street, London, E.G.

MISCELLANEOUS. 115

ENCHiAND-JOHNSTON*S NEW " THBEE MILES TO INCH "

MAP.

In 25 Sheets. Price of eai-Ji sheet, in case Is., or on cloth and in case Is. 6d. The

Best Maps for Tourists. Index Map with full details on application.
ENGLAND-JOHNSTON'S POPULAB MAP OF ENGLAND

AND WALES.
Sixe 36 by 25 inches, scale 14 miles to 1 inch. Shows all Railways, Towns, Villages,
Country Seats, and the Principal Roads ; also a Plan of the Environs of London.
Total number of Names given is over 12,000. Price, folded in cloth case. Is. ;
mounted on cloth and in cloth case, 2s.
SCOTLAND-JOHNSTON'S POPULAB MAP OF SCOTLAND.
Size 36 by 25 inches, scale 10 miles to 1 inch. Showing Railways, Towns, Villages,
and Principal Roads. Over 10,000 Names given. Price, folded in cloth case. Is. ;
mounted on cloth and folded in cloth case, 2s.

SCOTLAND-JOHNSTON'S NEW "THBEE MILES TO

INCH " MAP. The best Map for Tourists.

In 16 Sheets. Price of each sheet, in case Is., or on cloth and in case Is. Cd. Please

apply for Index Map with full details.

IBELAND-JOHNSTON'S BOYAL ATLAS MAP OP

IBELAND.

Size 22 by 25 inches, scale 12J miles to 1 inch. Mounted to fold in cloth case, with

complete Index, price 4s. 6d.

THE BEST GUINEA ATLAS.

NOW READY,

The Victoria Regina Atlas.

SECOND EDITION.— Thoroughly Revised to Date.

Royal 4to. — 12| by 10 inches. <>\^t^4^.^

CONTAINING
200 Coloured Plates, Political, Physical, and Astro-
nomical; Frontispieces illustrating the Time of all
Nations; Arms of Great Britain and her Colonies;
National Arms; the Flags of all Nations; and

COMPLETE INDEX TO 100,500 PLACES NAMED.

r Half-Bound Persian Morocco, Gilt Top
PRICES-- F"ll-Bound French Morocco, Gilt Edges £i :

l Fnll-Bonnd Morocco, Extra Gilt, Gilt Edges

£i:is.
£i:8s.
£2 : 5s.

W. & A. K. JOHNSTON, LIMITED,

(ESTABLISHED 1825)

GEOGRAPHICAL, EDUCATIONAL, & GENERAL PUBLISHERS.

Edina Works, Easter Boad, & 20 South St. Andrew Street,

EDINBURGH ;

7 Paternoster Square, LONDON, E.G.

116

MTSCETiLANEOUS

WHY BUY PICTORIAL POST

CARDS OF GREAT
BRITAIN PRINTED ABROAD'

Valentine's series of Pictorial
Post Cards embraces every plac
of interest and beauty in the
British Isles-

Sold by

the principal

Booksellers and

, Stationers

throug^hout

i the country.

Large series

of Studies both

Coloured and

JHT

Black and

White.

1 ^ifiO

WOH

Manuiactur^cl
entirely at^^
our Works in
Dundee.

VALENTINE & SONS, LIMITED

PRINTERS AND PUBLISHERS,

DUNDEE, EDINBURGH, & LONDON.

MIBCELLANEOUS.

117

COLOR PHOTOGRAPHY.

X;E]»S,pF HOLIDAY RESORTS

IN

ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD
COLORS OF NATURE

UNMOUNTED.

MOUNTED.

OF ALL LOCAL STATIONERS AND FANCY
GOODS DEALERS.

CATALOGUES FREE

i

Post-Cards in Color and Monotone
a Speciality.

THE PHOTOCHROM CO., LTD.
121 CHEAPSIDE, LONDON, E.G.

^if^^^^^iTUNBRIDGE WELLS, KENT.

Studios \ '

Telephone :

5307 BANK.

Telegraphic and Cable Address
PHOTOCHROM, LONDON.

118 MISCELLANEOUS.

(PATEfTTED AND PROTECTED BY REGISTRATION.)

No more Saddle Soreness !

SEAMLESS SEAT KNICKERS

Obviate all Chafing, and are Wonderfully Comfortable I

NEW STYLE.

SBAMLBSS.

THE seats of these garments
are cut in one piece, so
that in Cycle Riding there are
no Seams to sit upon, also
being less contracted in the
fork than ordinary knickers,
give more freedom of move-
ment. The appearance is
much smarter in the patent
knickers than in the old make,
and, when a double seat is
introduced, they look neater
and show no patch. They
obviate all chafing, prevent
seam soreness, and are wonder-
fully comfortable.

OLD STYLE,

WITH SEAMS.

CYCLING, ISth May, says:—''Oav oxperience with a pair of patent (Seamless Seat
Knickers confirms our opinion that the cause of saddle soreness is not so much the
saddle as the seams in knickers."

Order from your outfitter, and insist upon having them.

In the event of your finding any difficulty in obtaining the Seamless Seat Knickers,
write direct to us for the name of your nearest outfitter, who will supply you to
measure.

JOHN HARDING SON & CO., LTD.

Wholesale and Export Clothiers,

18 and 20 New Brown Street, Manchester.

MISCELLANEOUS.

119

ALLEN,

^ Strand, London

itted Suit Cases
n great variety.

RICES ACCORDING TO
FITTINGS FROM

£5:5:0

AND UPWARDS.

Illustrated

Price Lists Free,

SAMPSON & CO.

SHIRT TAILORS & HOSIERS,

I^PECIALITIES

IN

DRESS
SHIRTS

AVitli fine Linen
Fronts and Cuffs.

For Morning Wear

Fine Coloured

Zephyr and
French Cambric

SHIRTS.

PYJAMAS

SUITS.

268-270 OXFORD

SPECIALITIES

IN

SHIRTS

FOR

TRAVELLING

Pure Silk,
Fine Flannel,
and Cashmere.

Silk and Woollen

Underclothing

OF THE

Finest Texture.

English

Manufacture.

STREET, W.

120 MISCELLANEOUS.

DR. J. GOLLIS BROWNE'S i^n |/|

CHIiORODYNE

THE ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE.

CHLORODYNE is admitted by the Profession to be the
most wonderful and valuable remedy
ever discovered.

CHLORODYNE is the best remedy known for Coughs,
Colds, Consumption, Bronchitis,
Asthma.

CHLORODYNE effectually checks and arrests those too
often fatal diseases — Diphtheria, Fever,
Croup, Ague.

CHLORODYNE acts like a charm in Diarrhoea, and is
the only specific in Cholera and Dysen-
tery.

CHLORODYNE effectually cuts short all attacks of Epi-
lepsy, Hysteria, Palpitation, and
Spasms.

CHLORODYNE is the only palliative in Neuralgia,
Rheumatism, Gout, Cancer, Tooth-
ache, etc.

CAUTION-BEWARE OF PIRACY AND IMITATIONS.

Sold iu Bottles at Is* l^d., 2s. 9d., and 4s. 6d. None Genuine with-
out the words ''Dii. J. COLLIS BROWNPTS CHLORODYNE," on the
Government Stamj). Overwhelming Medical Testimony accompaniea
each bottle.

Sole Manufacturer — '.:;/\U\i

J. T. DAVENPORT, ^^ ^^

33 Great Russell Street, W,a

WISCELLANEOUS.

121

ROWLAND 'S

MACASSAR OIL

FOH THE HAIR

UNSURPASSED.

UNEQUALLED.

Use it for your own and your children's hair and you will find it Pre=

serves, Nourishes, Enriches, and Restores it more effectually than

anything else. Golden Colour for fair or grey hair.

Bottles, 3/6, 71- , 10/- 5old by Stores, Chemists, Hairdressers, and

ROWLAND'S, 67 HATTON GARDEN, LONDON.

By Special Royal Appointvient.

SPEARMAN'S SERGES AND FANCY WEAVINGS.

PURE WOOL ONLY. FOR ALL SEASONS OF THE YEAR.

Plain Colours, Checks, and Mixtures. Strong! Useful! Durable!

For Ladies' "Wear ... Is. ed. to 4s. 6d. the yard.
For G-entlemen's Suits . . 2s. lid. to lOs. 6d. the yard.

On Receipt of Instructions Samples will be sent Post Free.

N.B.— Any length cut and carriage paid to principal stations, or by Parcels Post

in the United Kingdom.

ONLY ADDRESS.— NO AGENTS: SPEARMAN. SPEARMAN.

PLYMOUTH.

1/6
per lb.

LUCK'S

7/6
each.

WEDDING CAKES.

REFRESHMENT CONTRACTOR FOR

RECEPTIONS, BREAKFASTS, SUPPERS, CINDERELLAS, DINNERS.

REFRESHMENTS. RESTAURANT. TEA ROOMS.

All 'Buses pass our Door. No Gratuities. No Waiting.

i'RiCE LISTS. 117 TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD, LONDON. ESTIMATES FREE.

122 MISCELLANEOUS.

To

His Majesty
The King.

SCHWEPPES
TABLE WATERS. ^^^

Awarded GOLD MEDAL, ^Jt^

c-d^*-

^

Awarded GOLD MEDAL,
PARIS 1900

'^

Seltzer Water,
Potass Water,
Lemonade, liithia Water,
^m '^^^^ Sparkling Malvern Water,

^^^^^jV Brewed Ginger Beer, Tonic Water,

^^^^%^^^ Dry Ginger &le, Sweet Ginger Ale, &c., &c,

SCHWEPPES LIMITED, 49 Pall Mall, S.W., London.
CAMBRIAN MINERAL WATERS

RUTHIN.-Best Soda Water Sold. A3^8

UNSOLICITED TESTIMONIALS.

By Dr. C. R. Francis, late Principal of th
Medical College in Calcutta— an entire strange
to the Company. See " The Indian Magazine,'
September 1888, " On the best mode of presery
ing health in India," page 487 :

"Among THE BEST SODA WATER SOLD i

that supplied ly the Ruth i n Soda Water Company-
the Water being obtained from an Artesian Spring
in Vale ofClwydj North Wales."

Send for Price List and Reports of Analysis.

Soda Water Potass Water Lemonade Ginger Beer

Seltzer Water Lithia Water Ginger Ale Hop Bitters

Lime Juice and other Cordials
IIANUPACTURED BY

The Ruthin Soda Water Co., Limited,

CAMBRIAN WORKS, BUTHIN, N.W.

MISCELLANEOUS.

123

Purveyors

^o H-R-H-

THE ^,,ES

Ijtgcbrcme^

HerMajestys Houses Parliamenv

HNG^RALEl

^^31 Cold

^PrizeMedals

AWARDED

NASSAuWoRKS^ii^^^^yy CkOMAC BUILDINGS WOODSTOCXST OXFORD St

Dublin^/ Belfast. •London-

British Section at Paris Exiiibition. Tiie HIGHEST AWARD to

GANTRELL & COCHRANE, Ltd.

MANUFACTURERS OF

MINEEAL WATERS,

BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT TO

HIS MAJESTY THE KING.

" CLUB SODA," THE BEVERAGE OF HEALTH.
GINGER ALE, "AROMATIC," THE ORIGINAL BRAND.
"SPARKLING MONTSERRAT," THE DRINK FOR THE
GOUTY AND RHEUMATIC.
Royal Seltzer, Potass, Lithia Waters, Lemonade, etc.

"CLUB ALE" and "CLUB KOLA" New Specialties.

Cantrell & Cochrane, Ltd., were awardod a GOI-l) MEDAL for all their

products at Jiiverpool Exhibition, 1886.
Cantrell & Cochrane, Ltd., are the only Manufacturers who were awarded a
Medal for their products at Paris Exhibition, 18S9,iGold Medal at Kingston
Jamaica Exhibition, 1891, making a grand total of

THIRTY-TWO GOLD AND PRIZE MEDALS AWARDED.

LONDON DEPOT— Findlater's Corner, London Bridge, S.E.
GLASGOW DEPOT-53 Surrey Street.

Works : BELFAST and DUBLIN.

124

MISCELLANEOUS

Shetland^ Goods

■a

i ^lOV

JOHN WHITE & CO.
SHETLAND HOUSE

30 & 32 Frederick Street,

formerly 10 Frederick Street,

EDINBURGH. '^ ""'^

Illustrated List fre6^^^.A»T0

Telegrams: Shetlands, Edinburgh.

jasr

ELEPHONE: 2270.

MISCELLANEOUS.

125

THE UNITED ALKALI COMPANY, LIMITED.

TELEGRAMS : UBIQUE, LIVERPOOL."

30 JAMES STREET, LIVERPOOL.

MA NUFA CT URERS OF

TELEPHONE, 5001.

Acetate of Soda.

Acetic Acid,Coinmercial,Glacial,

and Vinegar qualities.
Acetone.

Ammonia Alkali, all Strengths.
Bicarbonate of Soda, High

strength ; also Mineral Water

quality.
Bisulphite of Soda.
Bleaching Powder.
Calcium Carbide.
Carbonate of Potash.
Caustic Potash.

Caustic Soda 50% to 78%.
Caustic Soda, Liquid.

Powder, 98%.
Chlorate of Potash.
Soda.
, , Baryta.

Chloros (Liquid Disinfectant).
Chlorosene Powder.
Chloride of Ammonium (Refined).
Chloride of Calcium.
Chloride of Lime.

(Sanitary).
Chloride of Magnesium.
Copper, B.S. & G.M.B.'s etc.
Copper Precipitate.
Chromic Acid.
Crystal Carbonate.
Cyanides.
Diamond Soda.
Fertilisers.
Glycerine.
Hydrochloric Acid, Common

and Purified, also Commercially

free from Arsenic and Vitriol.
Hypochlorite of Soda.
Hyposulphite of Soda.
Ketone Oils.
Laundry Bleach.
Manganate of Soda.
Manganese (Recovered).
Monohydrate.

Muriate of Ammonia.

Pearl Ash.

Pest Killer. Strawsonite.

"Charlock" Brand Sulphate
of Copper.

Purple Ore.

, , Briquettes.

Rectified Vitriol.

Sal Ammoniac.

Salt, White in all qualities.
Rock, Lump, and Ground.

Silicate of Soda.

Soaps, Hazlehurst's ** Red
SIaid" Laundry, "Cash-
mere" Toilet, "Protector"
Carbolic, and other noted Soaps.

Soda Ash, all strengths by
Ammonia and Le Blanc pro-

and

Soda Crystals.
Spraying Materials.
Strontium Oxide.

, , Hydrate.

, , Carbonate.

Sulphur (Rock, Roll,

Flowers).
Sulphuric Acid, Brown, Best

Brown, and Rectified, Anhy-
drous or Fuming.
Sulphate of Ammonia.
Sulphate of Copper.
Sulphate of Soda or Salt-

Cake, in Bulk or Ground.
Sulphide of Sodium.
Sulphydrate of Calcium.
Superphosphates.
Tar Products :

Solvent Naphtha.

Benzole 50% and 90%.

Creosote Oil and Salts.

Common and Prepared Tar.

Black Varnish.

Pitch, etc.
Ultramarine.
Vitriol, all qualities and strengths.

By MORTIMER MENPES.

JAPAN • •

A RECORD
IN COLOUR

CONTAINING loo
FULL-PAGE ILLU-
STRATIONS IN
COLOUR

^ Price 20s. net.

WAR

IMPRESSIONS •

BEING

A RECORD

IN COLOUR

CONTAINING 99 FULL-PAGE
ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR •
SIX FACSIMILE LETTERS
FROM GENERALS • AND A
BOER PLAN OF MAGERS-
FONTEIN

Price 20s, net.

Some Press Opinions.

Black and White.—" It Ls a charming volume, and con
some of the most delightful of Mr Menpes" Japanese stu
The reading matter, too, is very bright, and accords i
agreeably with the delightful pages in which the artist I
unquestionable possession of the stage."

The Times. — " Mr. Menpes' pictures are here given in i
perfect facsimile, and they form altogether a series of co!
nnpressions of Japan which may fairly be called unriva
liven without the narrative they would show that Mr. Mei
is an enthusiast for Japan, her art, and her people ; and
{^w European artists have succeeded in giving such comj
expression to an admiration in which all share."

The Scotsman. — "These brilliant and vigorous picture
the life, scenery, and customs of Japan will give pleasure i
to the lover of Art and to the student of manners,"

Dally News.— " Exquisite is the only adjective one
apply to colour that deals with texts so delicately modul
and of such individual beauty."

Literary World.—" It is seldom that a book so ent:
delighful swims within the ken either of the reviewer c
the public."

The Speaker.—" It is perhaps superfluous to state thai
hundred illustrations in colour which adorn this work — b
exquisitely skilful reproductions of Mr. Menpes' beau
paintings of Japan and its people— leave absolutely nothir
be desired. The pictures represent Japanese life and scei
with absolute fidelity, and child-life in particular."

The Academy.— " This is in its way the most charming
delicate study of Japan which has yet been published."

Dally Telegraph.— " One hardly knows which to adi
the more— the skill of the artist or the skill with which
studies have been reproduced, for the colours of the origi
are shown with marvellous fidelity, and the delicate art of
impressionist loses nothing in the process. The book, th
fore, is a double triumph, and will therefore be prized
collectors."

The Times.— " The general views of incidents— troop
the march, and so forth — are extremely clever. The porti
are mostly very good, especially those of Lord Roberts,
Rhodes, and General Macdonald."

Scotsman.— " This is in many ways the most attractive \
on the South African War that has yet been published."

Black and White.— "Of all the recent books which \
reached our hands, none has given us so much pleasure, I
on account of letterpress and illustrations, as JVar
fir

Daily Chronicle.— " Of all the many pictures of the S(
African campaign, we have seen none to compare with tl
for poetic worth or for beauty of drawing and colour."

Glasgow Herald.—" The most beautiful book the War

produced.

One does not recall any book which sts

in the same category ; certainly the ^^'ar has brought f
nothing so lovely."

The Athensnm,

War."

' An excellent illustrated record of

A DETAILED PROSPECTUS WITH SPECIMEN ILLUSTRATION
WILL BE SENT ON APPLICATION TO THE PUBLISHERS

A. & C. BLACK • 4 SOHO SQUARE • LONDON,

W

MISCELLANEOUS.

127

A. S.

EUXESIS versus SOAP.

LLOYD'S EUXESIS.

A DELIGHTFUL CREAM.

For Shaviag without Soap,

Water, or Brush.

And in one-half the ordinary time

Tube of EUXESIS and a

Sharp Razor being the

only necessaries.

The genuine bears two signatures,
"A. S. Lloyd " in hlacl:, and " Aim^e
Lloyd " in red ink. Refuse any other.
Hold by Chemists and Stores ; or
post free for 1/6 from—
liLOYD & CO., 3 SPUR ST., LEICESTER SQ., LONDON, 1¥.C.

THE WANT OF
THE DAY.

HAKES STARCHED
:.INEN LIKE NEW.

CRITCHLEYS

The Oreatest Boon
ever offered to the
Laundries for im-
parting an Ivory
Finish to Starched
Linen, Laces, etc.

It does not stick to Spider-Web-like materials. Once tried always wanted. Used in
he Royal Laundries. Should be used in every House. Sold by most Starch-sellers, In
«cket3, Id., 3d., and 6d. each. Prepared only by T. CRITCHLBY, Chemist, Blackburn,

BUMSTED^S

FOR THE TABLE.

FOR THE BATH.
3 A LT ''OR THE GARDEN.

AS SUPPLIED TO
HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN

D. BUMSTED & CO., 36 King William Street, E.C

TEMPERANCE

u amiii oia irji

PERMANENT BUILDING SOCIETY,

4 LUDGATE HILL, LONDON, E.C.
>ROMPT ADVANCES. REDUCED REPAYMENTS,

vi ; DEPOSITS received at 3 per cent, interest.

Withdrawable at Short Notice.

Apply to EDWARD WOOD, Secretary.

128 BENEVOLENT INSTITUTION.

UNITED KINGDOM

RAILWAY OFFICERS' AND SERVANTS' ASSOCIATION,

21 FINSBURY PAVEMENT, LONDON, B.C.

Established 1861.

Patron: HIS MAJESTY KING EDWARD VIL

Treasurer: HENRY BROOKS, Esq.

Bankers: THE NATIONAL PROVINCIAL BANK OF ENGLAND, Limited,

112 BiSHOPSOATE Street, E.G. ■" ' - ' •

OBJECTS OF THE INSTITUTION.

To give temporary and permanent assistance to Railway
Servants in cases of Severe Illness, or if otherwise incapacitated
for work; to provide them with Annuities in old age, and at
death to assist their families.

Since the establishment of the Institution, the follow-
ing benefits have been conferred on Railway Servants
and their wives and families to the 31st Decembei
1901:—

To Widows and Members (from Death Fund) £49,1 66 0 C

„ Annuitants .... J. l. 34,120 10 (

In Sickness (since 1874) . . . . 69,698 2 (

„ Special Grants 7,325 2 (

To Orphans. . --r^ , . . . 4,172 13 (

ih'i n\H I V

Making a total of . £164,482 8 (

Grants are made by the Committee to Necessitous Cases Montlily.

Donations, Subscriptions, and Bequests are earnestly
solicited, and will be gratefully received by the Bankers, o
by the Secretary, at the Offices of the Association.

A Subscriber of One Guinea annually is entitled to Four Votei
at every Election of Pensioners.

Donors of Five Guineas become Life Governors, and receive
One Vote at every Election, and One for every additional Fiv<
Guineas.

ALFEED JAMES,

^O^'^ Secretary.

INSURANCK 129

. CAPITAL, SIX MILLIONS STERLING.
Total Funds . . exceed iG5,O0O,O0O

SCOTTISH UNION AND NATIONAL

INSURANCE COMPANY.

LONDON : 3 KING WILLIAM STREET, E.G.
GLASGOW: 150 WEST GEORGE STREET.

HEAD OFFICE: 35 ST. ANDREW SQUARE, EDINBURGH.

Secretary: J. K. MACDONALD. Actuary: COLIN M'CUAIG, F.F.A.
General Manager : A. DUNCAN.

LIFE ASSURANCE.

EARLY BONUS SCHEME (E.B.)

The following among other special advantages apply to ordinary Policies issued under
this Scheme. Besides being payable immediately on proof of death and title, they are,
oX the end of Three years from their date,

Entitled to rank for Bonus Additions ;

Indisputable on the ground of Errors or Omissions ;

World-Wide without Extra Charge ; and

Liable only to Reduction in Amount on Non-payment of the Premiums.

At the Division of Profits for the Five Years ending 31st December 1890, Ordinary

Life Policies under the Scheme received a Bonus Addition of £1 : 10s. per cent

for each year since they were entitled to rank.

SPECIAL BONUS SCHEME (D.B.)

Under this Scheme Profit Policies are issued at Rates which do not exceed,
and in many cases fall short of the Non-Profit Rates of other Offices.

They share in the profits when the Premiums received, accumulated at 4 per cent
compound interest, amount to the sum assured.

Policies iss^ced at these very economical Rates practically receive a Large Bonus at the
outset.

At age 30, £1200 with right to Profits can be insured for the same Premium as
would be charged for £1000 under the usual Profit Schemes of most Offices.

In 1899 Policies of this class which ranked for Bonus for the first time received
additions at the rate of £10 per cent, besides a further progressive addition of 10s.
per cent per annum ; and Policies which had previously participated received further
additions.

FIRE INSURANCE.

Almost all descriptions of Property insured on the most favourable conditions.

Agents able to influence Biisiness wanted.
9

130 INSURANOB.

Commnrctal Winion aggurance Compang, iimitetr.

FIRE— LIFE— MARINE— ACCIDENT.

Capital ftiUy Subscribed £2,500,000

life Funds £2,310,925

TOTAL ASSETS EXCEED SIX MILLIONS.
Total Annual Income exceeds .... £2,000,000

HEAD OFFICE:— 24, 25, & 26 CORNHILL, LONDON, E.G.

WEST END OFFICE:— 8 PALL MALL, LONDON, S.W.

NEW BRIDGE STREET OFFICE :— 20 NEW BRIDGE STREET, LONDON, E.a

MINCING LANE OFFICE :— 37a MINCING LANE, LONDON, E.C.

DIRECTORS.

Frkdkrick W. Harris, Esq. (Harris & Dixon).
P. Larkwortht, Esq.

W. Rkkbrson Aabuthstot, Esq,

Robert Barclay, Esq. (Barclay 4 Co., Limited).

Sir Thomas Brooke, Bart.

W, MiDDLKTON Campbkix, Esq. (Curtis, Campbell,

& Co.).
Jkrbmiah CoiMAN. Esq. J. & J. Col man. Limited),
The Right Hon. Leonard H. Courtnbt.
WtujAM C. Dawks Esq (J. B. Westray ft Co.).
Sir James F. Garrick. K-C K.C.M.G.
W. M. GuTHBiK, Esq.. M.P. (Chalmers, Guthrie, & Co.,

Limited).

John H. Ley. Esq.

General Sir Henry "W. Norman, G.C.B,

Thomas Rudd, Esq. (Rudd & Co.).

J. Carr Saunders. Esq.

Sir Andrew R. Scoble, K.C.S.I., K.C.

Aijxander Billing Sim, Esq. (Churchill ft Sim).

W. J. Thompson. Jun„ Esq. (W. J. A H. Thompson).

John Trotteb, Esq.. (John Trotter <t Co.).

P. Bence Trowkb. Esq. (Trower & Sons).

F. L Wallace, Esq. (Wallace Bros. ).

Prospectuses and all information needful for effecting Assurances may be obtained at
any of the Company's Offices or Agencies throughout the World.

FIRE DEPARTMENT.

Undoubted Security. Moderate Rates. Prompt and
Liberal Settlements.

LIFE DEPARTMENT.

The Life Funds form a separate Fund.

The Assured wholly free from liability.

Four-Fifths of the Entire Life Profits belong to Policyholders.

Interim Bonuses are paid.

The Expenses of Management limited by Deed of Settlement.

Liberal Surrender Values guaranteed ; and Claims paid immediately on proof of
death and title.

Married "Women's Property Act (1882) — Policies are issued to husbands for the
benefit of their wives and children, thus creating, without trouble, expense, stamp
duty, or legal assistance, a Family Settlement which creditors cannot touch.

MARINE DEPARTMENT.

Rates for Marine Risks on application.

ACCIDENT DEPARTMENT.
Policies of all classes and Fidelity Guaranteed Bonds issued.

EDINBUaaH BRANCH . . 37 Hanover Street.

LOCAL BOARD.
Wm BEVERiDGE,Jun., Esq., Dunfermline. I W, H. B. Martin, Esq., Dundee.
Geo Bennbt Clark, Esq., W.S. | J. A. Robertson Durham, Esq., C.A.

Graham G. Watson, Esq., W.S.

W. P. WILSON BRODTE, C.A., District Matmger.

MISCELLANEOUS.

131

SCOTT ADIE,

THE ROYAL SCOTCH WAREHOUSE.iOci
115, 115a REGENT STREET, LONDON, W.

Travelling Coats.
Ulsters and Capes.
Shooting Coats,
Golf Suits and Capes.
Hand-Knit Stockings.
Railway Rugs from 18 6.
Highla,nd Jewellery,

THE ASCOT

is a stylish coat made in a grey Simla
cloth with the new Mandarin sleeves.

Tailor Gowns.
Jackets and Skirts.
Cawdor Capes.
Carriage Cloaks.
Scotch Shawls.
Shetland "Wool Shawls.
Dust Rugs from 15/6.
Tartan Silks & Ribbons.

THE RAGLAN COAT

is made in Scotch Cheviots, Harris

Homespuns, and Reversible

Tweeds.

Illustrated Catalogue post free.

TELEGRAMS— ''^COTT ADIE, LONDON."

132 INSURANCE.

THE

Scottish Widows' Fund

(MUTUAL) LIFE ASSURANCE SOCIETY.

THE OUTSTANDINQ FEATURE

Of the SCOTTISH WIDOWS' FUND

Is the Unusually Profitable Character of its Policies, as clearly
shown in the Tables given in the Society's Prospectus, relating
practically to every Policy in force, and also in the recent
Declaration on 23rd May 1902 of the two following

VERY LARGE COMPOUND BONUSES

of jQi : 14s. and £1 : 12s. per cent per annum respectively

which, compiited on Original Sums Assured alone, show the follow-
ing remarkable additions to the Policies :

1. For the Seven Years to December 1901

From £l:14s. to £5:4:9d. pep cent per annum

2. For the Intermediate Seven to next Division

From £1 : 12s. lo £5:10: 5d. per eent per annum

According to duration of the Policies.

These Bonuses are of exceptional magnitude, and should

decide all who desire to obtain Life Assurance Policies of the

most profitable description to effect them tcith the Society.

EDINBITHQH (Head Opfice), 9 ST. ANDREW SQUARE.
LONDON, 28 CoRNHiLL, E.G., AND 5 Waterloo Place, fcf.W.
DUBLIN, 41 Westmoreland Street. LEEDS, 21 Park Row.

GLASGOW, 114 West George Street. \ BRISTOL, 28 Baldwin Street.
MANCHESTER, 21 ALBERT SQUARE. NEWCASTLE, 12 Grey Street.

LIVERPOOL, 48 Castle Street. I BELFAST, 2 High Street.

BIRMINGHAM, 12 Bennett's Hill.

Agencies in all Important Tovms in the Kingdom.

inui

BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOKS

Bath and Bristol, 6d

Belfast and the North of Ireland, Is (cloth Is 6d)

Bournemouth, 6d

Brighton and Environs, Is

Buckinghamshire, 2s 66.

Buxton and the Peak Country, Is

Canterbury and East Kent, Is

Channel Islands, Is (cloth, with extra maps,

2s 6d)
Clyde, Is

Cornwall and Scilly Islands, 2s 6d
Derbyshire (Buxton, Matlock, Chatsworth), Is
Devonshire (Torquay, Plymouth, Exeter), 2s 6d
Dorsetshire (Swanage, "Weymouth), 2s 6d
Dublin and the East of Ireland, Is (cloth Is 6d)
Edinburgh, 6d
English Lakes, 3s 6d

Do. Cheap Edition, Js

Exeter and East Devon, Is
Galway and West of Ireland, Is (cloth Is 6d)
Glasgow, Is
Gloucestershire, Is

UC. BERKELEY LIBRARIES

Hampshire (Bournemouth, Portsmoutli, &c.) 2s 6d

Harrogate, Is

Hastings and Eastbourne, Is

Hereford and Monmouth, 2s 6d

Ilfracombe and North Devon, 6d

Ireland, 5s

Do. Cheap Edition, Is

Isle of Man, Is

Isle of Wight, Is (cloth Is 6d)

Jersey, Guernsey and Alderney, Is (cloth 2s 6d)

Kent, 2s 66.
Do. East (Canterbury, Margate, Bamsgate, &c.), Is
Do. West (Tunbridge Wells, Maidstone, &c.). Is

Killarney & the South of Ireland, Is (cloth Is 6d)

Leamington, Stratford-on-Avon, &c., Is

Liverpool and District, Is

London and Environs, Is (cloth 2s 6d)

London, Around North, 6d; West, 6d

Manchester and Salford, Is

Margate and the East Coast of Kent, Is

Matlock, Dovedale and Central Derbyshire, la

Plymouth and South Devon, Is

Scarborough and Whitby, Is

Scotland, 8s 6d

Do. Cheap Edition, Is

Somerset, 2s 6d

Surrey, 2s 6d

Sussex (Brighton, Hastings, Eastbourne), 23 6d

Torquay and the South Hams, 6d

Trossachs and Loch Lomond, Is

Tunbridge Wells and West Kent, Is

Wales, North, 3s 6d
Do. South, 3s 6d
Do. Cheap Edition, Is

Where Shall We Go? 3s 6d

Wye, The, Is
Yorkshire, Is

\^

'■"'-- -

^-1"

■i

I

ctr. c r"